Some note on New Year's Day Wines

kirk wallace

kirk wallace
At a gathering of a few close friends who are not wine geeks, but have proven over the years to pay keen attention to quality, nuance and variation in food and wine, we drank:

'13 Prévost BdN -- its typical, jolly, delicious self; hard to think of a champagne that marries delicacy, lightness and pure pleasure with nifty complexity and spine in the background.

Sélosse Rosé 10/14 Disgorgement -- best Selosse Rosé showing i've ever experienced. Beautiful light red fruit with freshness and great length. touch of savoriness midway through make you sit up and say OH! Maybe i like them younger.

1989 L d'OR - what a lucky night. perfect bottle; interesting mix of fresh minerality and secondary development. great with the squid ink tonnarelli dressed with coloratura, toasted bread crumbs and grey mullet bottarga.

2011 Roilette Griffe de Marquis -- if you have this in your cache, count yourself lucky. Drinking beautifully now. maybe it will get better, but i don't know how. Acidity and fruit and maturity seem in perfect harmony right now. (that said, we drank it with a fairly spicy (hungarian paprika) pork shoulder stew; so perhaps with an omelet or a roast chicken, it might show differently.)

2011 Overnoy Chard --not a perfect bottle; slight hints of apple juice, but still pleasant enough, especially with a near perfect 1/2 of a Colombier. Pleased my friends, but it didn't stop conversation the way the L' d'OR and the Griffe de Marquis did. I felt bad that they did not get the electric experience of this wine from good bottles. (including just a few weeks ago.)

1994 Christoffle Jr Urziger Wurzgarten Auslese*** -- moving toward spatlese dryness; acidity still OK; very pleasant golden glass of wine, especially with pear frangipane tarte. 4 drinkers had no problem draining it at the end of the evening.
 
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
originally posted by kirk wallace:
Drinking beautifully now. maybe it will get better, but i don't know how.

Great notes, Kirk, loved this line in particular. Happy New Year!

And always nice to get encouragement to open Coudert Griffe wines. So many other wines need so much age, I'm happy when the Beaujolais are ready!
 
originally posted by kirk wallace:

2011 Roilette Griffe de Marquis -- if you have this in your cache, count yourself lucky. Drinking beautifully now. maybe it will get better, but i don't know how. Acidity and fruit and maturity seem in perfect harmony right now. (that said, we drank it with a fairly spicy (hungarian paprika) pork shoulder stew; so perhaps with an omelet or a roast chicken, it might show differently.)

You were spot on with this note. I opened a bottle tonight as a last minute accompaniment to pizza with maitake and golden beets and it performed brilliantly from the first pour. It almost seemed to have that dark velvety texture of an aged (fairly serious) wine. But then of course the tart fresh Beaujolais-ness came in on the finish. Satisfaction in the moment.
 
The '89 L d'Or is one of my favorite Muscadets ever. My last 2 bottles seemed to be on the downslope, and I think I have 1 or 2 left. Thanks for the note.

Very interesting to hear about the '11 Roilette Griffe. About 6 weeks ago I drank a bottle of the '11 Cuvee Tardive and it was not very enjoyable. It was weird, a mix of under ripe and ripe flavors and some greenish, rough tannin. A bad phase, maybe, or just an off vintage? More recently I opened a '10 Roilette Tardive and enjoyed it much more. The fruit and structure integrated and balanced, a very open and delicious bottle.
 
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