TN: In The Cellar (Jan. 21, 2017)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Craig, Gary, Ben, Victor, Sasha, Alex, Jayson, Jay, Jeff
NB. notes from memory so patchy

Jay, like several people, still has a case or two at Chelsea Wine Storage for various logistical reasons. Time had come to wrangle some of those bottles so he summoned The Usual Suspects to jeeb like the old days.

We visit the old haunts for victuals -- Dickson's, Amy's, Lucy's, Buon Italia, The Lobster Place -- and get down to some serious work brushing aside those nasty old tree plugs:

Dom. Pepiere 2004 Muscadet "Clos des Briords" - served blind using a ridiculously large Burgundy balloon stem as a decanter; spoiled, though not as badly as the bottle on Wednesday

Egon Muller 2015 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett - first out of Jay's case and a goodie: a whiff of petrol then a really big fruity nose, expressive palate, the vintage is worth the hype if you judge by this bottle

Paul Pernot 2000 Puligny-Montrachet 1er "Les Pucelles" - Jayson thinks we need more whites so bring this out, white Burgundy does not drive me to ecstasy so if I say it's nice enough

Dom. Baudry 2014 Chinon Rouge "Les Grezeaux" - Let's drink like a Monkey: young, fresh, full of green-tinged cabernet and juicy acidity, it takes till well through the mid-palate for the dirt to push its way past all the fruit, I should buy more of this, Sasha says to buy the Guillot, too

Dom. Jouan 1996 Morey-St-Denis 1er "Clos Sorbe" - an infrequently-seen house and, to judge from this bottle, they were lighting matches and throwing them in the cuve, would the sulfur blow off (...which it is refusing to do...) there is an excellent wine here, clean and gently fruity, this desperately needs a sojourn through a copper funnel

CUNE 1975 Rioja Reserva "Imperial" - in a pretty state of decline, red berries gently mashed into wet black earth, not entirely ringing my bells though

And, suddenly, a theme leaps from the table and possesses those with stocks of wine at hand:

Ch. La Dominique 1979 St-Emilion Grand Cru - by-the-book old claret with leather and tobacco and a tiny but unfortunate tinny note that bothers me more than others

Ch. Haut-Brion 1979 Graves - OMG, an excellent bottle, it's hard to pull the flavors apart because it drinks as one experience

Ch. Haut-Bailly 1979 Graves - not as substantial as the Haut-Brion but a fresher bottle so more vivid if not more complex

Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou 1979 St-Julien - corked; it's different from different glasses but there is no redeeming it; damn

Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou 1979 St-Julien - Victor says to try another... maderized, also damn

And they were still opening bottles when I left.
 
Dom. Pepiere 2004 Muscadet "Clos des Briords" - not as bad as the bottle from a few days ago but noticeably advanced.

Egon Muller 2015 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett - Amazing nose, I'm very happy with this purchase.

Paul Pernot 2000 Puligny-Montrachet 1er "Les Pucelles" - It's so nice to have a white Burgundy with some age on it which isn't p'oxed. Lovely rich complex wine.

Dom. Baudry 2014 Chinon Rouge "Les Grezeaux" - Too young for me at this point. Put it away for a decade.

Dom. Jouan 1996 Morey-St-Denis 1er "Clos Sorbe" - Always a favorite producer, this is also still young and vibrant. Quite good now it will continue to improve.

CUNE 1975 Rioja Reserva "Imperial" - lovelier on the nose, slightly fading on the palate but still a pleasure to drink.

Ch. La Dominique 1979 St-Emilion Grand Cru - Very nice nose, I'm not getting much on the palate in contrast to most others at the table. Then I switch it from a riesling glass to a Burgundy glass and the nose becomes deeper and more intense and the palate smooth and delightful.

Ch. Haut-Brion 1979 Graves - A whole other level, rich, complex and enveloping. A wow wine.

Ch. Haut-Bailly 1979 Graves - Bright and vivid. More red fruited and minerally than the Haut Brion but not as complex. Still a delicious complete wine.

Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou 1979 St-Julien - corked

Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou 1979 St-Julien - maderized

1975 Pape Clement - a very good wine but a touch four square compared to some of the earlier Bordeaux. Needs another 5-10 years.
 
I thought the corked bottle of '79 Ducru would have been a beaut if it hadn't been for the TCA. All the more reason for disappointment.
 
My respect for Jay's acumen, already substantial, ascends to new heights with the knowledge that he buys Muller Scharzhofberger Kabinet by the case.
 
I opened a corked 79 Ducru last night. At least it wasn't so horrendously corked as the 1995 Drouhin Corton Bressandes I opened the night before.
 
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