Rieslingfeier 2017: Welcome Dinner for the Wine-Makers

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
There have already been several events and even a couple dinners but it's time for the official welcome wagon rollout. About 70 of us gather at Canton Lounge, in Chinatown, for unchallenging Cantonese fare, a dazzling variety of wine, and a din that could wake the dead. (I haven't figured out how to post video here.)

There were a dozen or so wine-makers, a dozen or so wine geeks, and a whole lotta ITBers. So, much time was spent schmoozing but I was very happy with my table mates: Tse Wei, Guillaume, Sasha and Delia, Jeremy, Jochen Beurer, and Egon Muller.

Here's what I can recall of the wines on my table, the common table in the center of the room, and a few passed around (there were many, many, many more on the other tables):

Foreau 2010 Vouvray Petillant
Huet 2010 Vouvray Petillant
- both nice but the Huet was better

Calsac Champagne BDB "Les Rocheforts"
Moutarde Champagne
Prevost "Beguine" Meunier(?)
- Calsac is a recent import and quite savory; I don't think I've had Moutarde before but this was unusual and unpleasant in a go-go environment; a third champagne was definitely pinot meunier...

Rhys 06 Pinot Noir "Alpine"
Under The Wire 2013 Pinot Noir Rose
- the Rhys is aging nicely, already showing good secondary flavors, a pleasure to drink; the rose is just barely sparkling and made from fruit grown in Alder Springs Vineyard, this is also amazingly good, stone fruit and saline

Metras 2015 Fleurie
Chamonard 2011 Morgon
- both excellent wines

Huet 2010 Le Mont Sec
- closed, let sleep

Dolde 2014 Schwarze Birne
Belluard's beer made from gringet lees
- the first is a hard cider from rare German black pears, quite dry and really good; the second sounds insane but this was also really nice, lightly hopped, fine froth, elegant

Labet 2011 Chardonnay "Cuvee du Hasard"
Domaine des Marnes Blanches 2008 Vin Jaune
- the Labet made friends easily; this bottle was gorgeous, the four years of sous-voile adding the characteristic nose but still a youthfully vinous palate; the Vin Jaune is the first vintage the Fromonts made themselves (they inherited the prior years when they bought the estate in 2006)

Belliviere 2014 Coteaux-du-Loir "Rouge Gorge"
Belliviere 2014(?) Coteaux-du-Loir "Vieille Vignes Eparses"
- the pineau d'aunis is excellent, pure and white pepper and cement dust, while the chenin is grumpy and making friends only slowly

Pearl Morisette VQA Niagara
- no excitement here for me

Mugnier 2008 Nuits-St-Georges "Clos de la Marechale"
- pretty open though still not showing all the depth it should

Oddero 1970 Barolo
Le Piane 2007 Boca
- the Oddero is OTH but the Le Piane is gorgeous: it doesn't have the weight of a barolo but it has much of the beauty, kinda like Carema but even a touch lighter than that

Gonon 2014 SJ
A La Tache 2010 SJ Cuvee Badel
- both beautiful

Montevertine 1996
- something wrong with this bottle, or else it's just really shut-down

Holger-Koch 2014 Weissburgunder Hornstuck
- a very rich, full pinot blanc; a pleasure to drink this

Bourdy Galant des Abbesses
- Murgatroyd.

Two more notes about this event: First, we were enjoined to bring anything but riesling, and, second, after hours and hours of this mayhem, some people went out for more drinks.
 
A couple dinner pics:
dinner_1_-_tse_wei,_jochen.jpg
Tse Wei and Jochen Beurer

dinner_2_-_delia,_sasha,_egon.jpg
Delia, Sahsa, and Egon Muller

dinner_3_-_sasha,_david,_egon.jpg
I wonder what David Schildknecht said?

dinner_4_-_later.jpg
General schmoozing.
 
1993 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Meix Chavaux (I think) - amazingly complete. Racy and fresh and flavorful. Too bad 1993 white burgs don't go under the radar much anymore. Want to thank the guy who brought this. Don't remember his name!
 
Thanks for the notes and photos!

What a crazy event. We had approximately 20 people last year. This year it took a life of its own. We decided to increase the size and went up to 50, then 60, then a day before 70 and then even with several last minute cancellations and no-shows had at least 80 people. Never thought I would hand Egon Muller IV a glass of Petite Sirah at Canton Lounge!

I was so busy trying to control the chaos* I barely drank much other than trying what I brought.

I went with an old California Theme:

74 Sterling Zinfandel - The Sterling wines were made by Ric Forman up until sometime in 1977. I remember when it was a regular occurrence to see these great wines on winebid for $20. The first person to show up (40 minutes early!) was one of my wine heros Hans Joseph Becker and he saw the bottle and said he loved Zinfandel and visited Napa in the 70s! I thought the wine showed beautifully, lots of spice and herbs with just enough fruit. Hans Joseph liked it as well.

On to the Petites these are extremely rare wines and I was very excited to try them. Dunn only made this wine 3 or 4 years in very small quantities. Both Levi and Mike Dunn commented on my instagram post that the fruit comes from the Park Muscadine vineyard that Ridge also used.

92 Dunn Howell Mountain Petite Sirah - Simply one of the greatest California wines I have ever tasted. A touch of funk, graves like character and a joy to drink.

93 Dunn Howell Mountain Petite Sirah - Very nice wine but a bit more ripe and California like but still tame for a Petite.

94 Dunn Howell Mountain Petite Sirah - Can't recall focusing on this as much as the other two. I do recall that it was closer to the 93 than the 92.

98 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon - Another stunning wine. Mike Dunn opened this for me at the winery a couple of years ago and sold me six bottles from their stash. Every bottle has been great. I love the right amount of brett and this has it for me. A couple of the California winemakers present called this as their wine of the night.

I also brought a Harbor Winery Zinfandel that was unfortunately corked.

Beurer Gemischter Satz - Suitcase import from Jochen that I saw floating in the ice bucket. I love his wines so I had to try it and it was beautiful. I hope this gets imported along with the Sauvignon Blanc that he brought for me! Go Swabia!

*In terms of the Chaos I was absolutely floored by the rudeness of many people, a few uninvited people showed up without wine and were annoyed that I asked them to pay, a very well known wine importer wanted me to give them receipts, one person wanted to venmo the money and never paid me, another wanted to pay in a foreign currency and NO with 80 individual people I can't take a credit card!

Overall a great event! For next year we are thinking of taking the whole restaurant and doing a paypal ticket beforehand. All suggestions welcome!
 
Firstly, Robert, thank you very much for organizing this dinner. It was great fun. I'm sorry the whole burden fell on you.

As to the chaos: The Restaurant Script -- come in, then pay -- doesn't work well for a big event. There are always people who don't want to pay, are tardy, simply forget, want to do something inconvenient or irregular, and, of course, there are always a few looking to mooch. The answer is to change to the Theater Script -- pay first, then come in. You will need someone, or a team of someones, to watch the door.

There are lots of inexpensive ticketing services. I don't think I've seen the PayPal one but I've encountered Brown Paper Tickets a few times.
 
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