Todd Abrams
Todd Abrams
We Michiganians use the term “Up North” for pretty much any travel above I-69/I-96. So that's where we gathered, on Ernest Hemingway's Walloon Lake where most of his Nick Adams stories took place, to partake in wine and brandy and rouladen and lamb “porchetta” over the course of a couple days with some winter hikes thrown in for clarity.
All notes from memory.
Night One: rouladen and mashed potatoes
Le Piane 2013 Boca Vino Rosso “Mimmo” - Consumed before I arrived. Savages!
Domaine de la Pepiere 2012 “Clos des Briords” - Sappy, full-throated lemon stones. Drinking nicely.
Domaine de Roches Neuves 2015 Saumur-Champigny “Domaine” - At least since I started drinking from the 2013 vintage, Thierry Germain is producing some of the most pure expressions of Cabernet Franc that exist. This entry level bottling is open for business, joyous wild black fruit and petrichor abound.
Jules Desjourneys 2010 Fleurie “la Chapelle des Bois” - Rich and highly extracted with some notes of wood. All the seriousness of Cru Beaujolais and none of the fun.
Foillard 2014 Morgon “Cote du Py” - Does this wine even need a tasting note on this board? I'll probably get hammered for this but as many times as I've tasted this wine, young and aged, it has yet to move me the way it moves others. I always find its tartness distracting.
Puffeney 2006 Arbois “Poulsard M” - In a nice place. Cranberry and red currants with only a hint of reduction.
Meo-Camuzet 2012 Bourgogne Rouge - Everything you're looking for in the type. Generous fruit and enough complexity to show its origins.
Amiot Guy 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er “Clos St Jean” - Decanted off the sediment. In a great place between primary fruit and forest decay but showed signs of falling apart only a couple of hours in.
2002 Clos de Tart - Decanted for a couple of hours. Tightly wound in the beginning, as expected. The last few sips were singing holy hymns. Wine of the trip, for me.
Post dinner Brandy Tasting:
There was a classic aged Cognac, an insanely fruity pinot noir-based California brandy, and Louis XIII, in that order. Hopefully Evan will fill in the details for me.
Red Pine planted in 1930 by the CCC
Day Two, Champagne Brunch: vegetable frittata, cream biscuits and sausage gravy
De Sousa Blanc de Blancs GC Reserve - One of my current favorite producers. Textbook, although it could probably use a bit more time in bottle to polish off some of the edges.
Bereche Brut Reserve - Gorgeously balanced and complex. Can a Champagne have too much minerality?
Eric Rodez GC “Cuvee des Crayeres” - Showing great pinot fruit ideally balanced by crisp energetic chardonnay.
Barnaut GC Blanc de Noirs - Lush and round and complex.
Dom Perignon 2004 - Well integrated and clearly showing layers of complexity that the other bottles did not, yet somehow dull in the sum. Perhaps too young.
JJ Prum 2005 Auslese - Beautiful ripe sweet orchard fruit and lively acidity. An argument broke out about whether it smelled more of petrol or gasoline.
Au Sable River Trail, Hartwick Pines SP
Night Two: Mediterranean roasted potatoes, fennel salad, lamb "porchetta"
Produttori del Barbaresco 2010 Barbaresco - In a damn fine place. Actually a pretty good comparison to the Meo-Camuzet of the previous night in terms of quality and specificity for price.
Paolo Scavino 2007 Barolo “Bric del Fiasc” - Decanted for a couple of hours. Still lots of primary fruit in the beginning but started to unwind nicely toward the end.
Chateau La Lagune 1986 - Decanted for a couple of hours. Showing elegant spice and maturity but probably in the last quarter of its developmental curve.
Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 1986 - Decanted for a couple of hours. Quite lush and full-bodied mature fruit with plenty of structure to balance. Peak drinking.
East Branch Au Sable River
Campfire Wine:
New Glarus Two Women Lager - As close to a malty fresh German lager that I've tasted in the states. More craft brewers should visit Wisconsin and figure out what they're doing. Do we really need any more IPA?
Les Granges Paquenesses 2012 Cotes de Jura “Intime Conviction” - Savignin. Rich and salty. Fantastic campfire wine.
Labet 2015 Cotes du Jura "Metis" - From the back label: “44% old grape varieties (not use anymore) 21% trousseau, 11% pinot, 15% poulsard, 6% chardonnay, 5% gamay” They all combine to make quite a nice expression of red Jura wine, structured with all the tart red fruits and earth.
Leon Barral 2011 Faugeres - Didier Barral's wines are stacked with pure and ripe Mediterranean fruit, meaty olives, and herbs. I think they suffer a bit from VA, most apparently in this base level Faugeres, but when you're in the mood for this type of wine there aren't many better.
All notes from memory.
Night One: rouladen and mashed potatoes
Le Piane 2013 Boca Vino Rosso “Mimmo” - Consumed before I arrived. Savages!
Domaine de la Pepiere 2012 “Clos des Briords” - Sappy, full-throated lemon stones. Drinking nicely.
Domaine de Roches Neuves 2015 Saumur-Champigny “Domaine” - At least since I started drinking from the 2013 vintage, Thierry Germain is producing some of the most pure expressions of Cabernet Franc that exist. This entry level bottling is open for business, joyous wild black fruit and petrichor abound.
Jules Desjourneys 2010 Fleurie “la Chapelle des Bois” - Rich and highly extracted with some notes of wood. All the seriousness of Cru Beaujolais and none of the fun.
Foillard 2014 Morgon “Cote du Py” - Does this wine even need a tasting note on this board? I'll probably get hammered for this but as many times as I've tasted this wine, young and aged, it has yet to move me the way it moves others. I always find its tartness distracting.
Puffeney 2006 Arbois “Poulsard M” - In a nice place. Cranberry and red currants with only a hint of reduction.
Meo-Camuzet 2012 Bourgogne Rouge - Everything you're looking for in the type. Generous fruit and enough complexity to show its origins.
Amiot Guy 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er “Clos St Jean” - Decanted off the sediment. In a great place between primary fruit and forest decay but showed signs of falling apart only a couple of hours in.
2002 Clos de Tart - Decanted for a couple of hours. Tightly wound in the beginning, as expected. The last few sips were singing holy hymns. Wine of the trip, for me.
Post dinner Brandy Tasting:
There was a classic aged Cognac, an insanely fruity pinot noir-based California brandy, and Louis XIII, in that order. Hopefully Evan will fill in the details for me.
Day Two, Champagne Brunch: vegetable frittata, cream biscuits and sausage gravy
De Sousa Blanc de Blancs GC Reserve - One of my current favorite producers. Textbook, although it could probably use a bit more time in bottle to polish off some of the edges.
Bereche Brut Reserve - Gorgeously balanced and complex. Can a Champagne have too much minerality?
Eric Rodez GC “Cuvee des Crayeres” - Showing great pinot fruit ideally balanced by crisp energetic chardonnay.
Barnaut GC Blanc de Noirs - Lush and round and complex.
Dom Perignon 2004 - Well integrated and clearly showing layers of complexity that the other bottles did not, yet somehow dull in the sum. Perhaps too young.
JJ Prum 2005 Auslese - Beautiful ripe sweet orchard fruit and lively acidity. An argument broke out about whether it smelled more of petrol or gasoline.
Night Two: Mediterranean roasted potatoes, fennel salad, lamb "porchetta"
Produttori del Barbaresco 2010 Barbaresco - In a damn fine place. Actually a pretty good comparison to the Meo-Camuzet of the previous night in terms of quality and specificity for price.
Paolo Scavino 2007 Barolo “Bric del Fiasc” - Decanted for a couple of hours. Still lots of primary fruit in the beginning but started to unwind nicely toward the end.
Chateau La Lagune 1986 - Decanted for a couple of hours. Showing elegant spice and maturity but probably in the last quarter of its developmental curve.
Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 1986 - Decanted for a couple of hours. Quite lush and full-bodied mature fruit with plenty of structure to balance. Peak drinking.
Campfire Wine:
New Glarus Two Women Lager - As close to a malty fresh German lager that I've tasted in the states. More craft brewers should visit Wisconsin and figure out what they're doing. Do we really need any more IPA?
Les Granges Paquenesses 2012 Cotes de Jura “Intime Conviction” - Savignin. Rich and salty. Fantastic campfire wine.
Labet 2015 Cotes du Jura "Metis" - From the back label: “44% old grape varieties (not use anymore) 21% trousseau, 11% pinot, 15% poulsard, 6% chardonnay, 5% gamay” They all combine to make quite a nice expression of red Jura wine, structured with all the tart red fruits and earth.
Leon Barral 2011 Faugeres - Didier Barral's wines are stacked with pure and ripe Mediterranean fruit, meaty olives, and herbs. I think they suffer a bit from VA, most apparently in this base level Faugeres, but when you're in the mood for this type of wine there aren't many better.
