Nine Wines w/multicourse dinner (menu)

Peter Creasey

Peter Creasey

Peter Creasey
MENU:

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. . . . . Pete
 
Jim, no, all except one of the wines were contributed by attendees; thus, only the venue charges were incurred.

Extraordinary event...and very much fun!

. . . . . Pete
 
So how we're the LaLas, Pete? Had the oak treatment integrated enough for the Syrah character to come out?

Mark Lipton
 
Mark, good question!

They were still quite young and primary, with little to distinguish between the three of them at this point (in my view, at least).

I don't recall noticing any particular oakiness, but I wouldn't think of them as being well integrated or evolved yet either...still pretty tight and dense.

This was late enough in the evening that there was a lot of distraction going on. I do recall the group being fairly evenly divided as to which was the favorite. Only under duress would I venture to pick a favorite in which case I would probably opt for the La Turque (by a gnat's eyelash!). I would love to have them in my cellar marked with a "hold".

Sorry not to have something more definitive.

. . . . . Pete
 
Jeff, amazing perception from afar by you.

Upon arrival at the dinner, I was asked to speak on the Usseglio Mon Aieul and the lobster/short rib/olive/cheese/etc. terrine.

Normally, we are expected to be patient until the "right" time to take the floor. I was so taken with this course and anxious to speak out about it, I preempted normal protocol and spoke up early.

The Usseglio Mon Aieul was singing. This is only the 2nd or 3rd bottling of this wine (originating, I believe, in 1998). It was smooth, delicious, no edges, nicely integrated...a pure delight. Someone remarked it was almost like a Burgundy, which comment I agreed with. The high marks this bottling gets universally are totally deserved. Very special! [O]

Then the terrine with salad was compelling. I eat salads almost daily so that was a plus. Moreover, the terrine could be described with the same adjectives as the Usseglio plus creative/captivating/etc. The pairing was heavenly. Unfortunately, the photo (click to enlarge) sorely under serves the cleverness and quality of the chef's creation...



After the dinner, the chef came out to visit with the group and I mentioned how wonderful the dish was and he laughed and, while totally agreeing with my assessment, described how serendipitously it came together.

. . . . . Pete
 
I imagine the chef that puts both lobster and short rib into the same terrine has more a maniacal cackle than a plain old laugh.
 
I'll never forget how Jay Miller once swooned over a Mon Aieul bottling at Peking Duck House that was too over the top for me.

As for the oak and La Las, I recently went to a dinner where we had an '06 La Mouline and La Landonne, '01 La Turque and La Landonne and '95 La Landonne and the oak was obvious. Now, some of these wines were very good in their style, but I've never had one where the oak wasn't a key component in the wine.
 
I don't know if Mon Aieul began in 98, but there was a 98, 99, 00, and 01 before the 03. It is made pretty much in any year that isn't a washout, or was through the mid aughts. I haven't kept track since.
 
originally posted by Todd Abrams:
I imagine the chef that puts both lobster and short rib into the same terrine has more a maniacal cackle than a plain old laugh.
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I immediately thought of Herbert Lom attempting to off Clouseau.
 
Interesting...I just got a note from the chef harking back to my complimenting him after the dinner on his "Head Cheese" course. He says it was his favorite course also.

[EDITED TO ADD] From wikipedia...

Head cheese or brawn is a cold cut that originated in Europe. A version pickled with vinegar is known as souse. Head cheese is not a dairy cheese, but a terrine or meat jelly made with flesh from the head of a calf or pig, or less commonly a sheep or cow, and often set in aspic. The parts of the head used vary, but the brain, eyes, and ears are usually removed. The tongue, and sometimes the feet and heart, may be included. It can also be made from trimmings from pork and veal, adding gelatin to the stock as a binder.

Head cheese may be flavored with onion, black pepper, allspice, bay leaf, salt, and vinegar. It is usually eaten cold or at room temperature.

Historically, meat jellies were made of the cleaned (all organs removed) head of the animal, which was simmered to produce stock, a peasant food made since the Middle Ages. When cooled, the stock congeals because of the natural gelatin found in the skull. The aspic may need additional gelatin, or more often, reduction to set properly.
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At the dinner, he said they used everything from the animals. He evidently was not kidding!

. . . . . Pete
 
originally posted by Todd Abrams:
Is his favorite rose equal parts Meursault and Pauillac?
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George and Gail used to come to dinner nearly every weekend and I'd open a bunch of different wines. George would try each and then blend as he saw fit. I was a little taken aback but, I had put them out to be enjoyed - the fact that he did it different than I didn't diminish that intent.
And when I would taste his concoctions, they were pretty good.
Some were extraordinary.
Live and learn.
Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
originally posted by Todd Abrams:
Is his favorite rose equal parts Meursault and Pauillac?
Click to expand...

George and Gail used to come to dinner nearly every weekend and I'd open a bunch of different wines. George would try each and then blend as he saw fit. I was a little taken aback but, I had put them out to be enjoyed - the fact that he did it different than I didn't diminish that intent.
And when I would taste his concoctions, they were pretty good.
Some were extraordinary.
Live and learn.
Best, Jim
Click to expand...

And let's not forget Yixin's oenological experimentation. His '47 Cheval Blanc is the best I've ever had.

Mark Lipton
 
I would love to try a Meursault/Pauillac blend. Undoubtedly tasty. But what would be the point other than novelty? It seems to me that however adequate a lobster and short rib terrine might have been for Pete's dinner, you lose the elements that make these two foods distinct in the first place, turning singular flavors into a fancy nugget.
 
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