TN: In the cellar (March 18, 2017)

J

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Ira, Jay, Jayson, Craig, Ben, Brad, Greg and an Italian friend

The cellar is a little worse for wear than when I saw it last. A recent, sudden, dramatic reduction of staff does not bode well, in my opinion.

Quite a gaggle of us show up, victuals in tow, and we pull a few corks so we can have opinions on something else, too:

Taittinger 2006 Champagne BdB "Comtes de Champagne" - lovely, just as it usually is, yellow fruit galore, we're sampling the first of a case and this bodes well

Felsina Berardenga 1986 IGT "Fontalloro" - this bottle is still singing with a strong and youthful Chianti-inflected voice: a little funk, a little dark cherries, a little earth, excellent

Ch. Cos d'Estournel 1989 Saint-Estephe - there was a whiff of something corky when first poured but that blows off, still quite tight so only giving a little foursquare claret pleasure now

R. Lopez de Heredia 2004 Rioja Reserva "Vina Bosconia" - generic red; honestly, I can't even tell whether this is rioja wine, maybe someone knows whether it opened more later?

Franck Balthazar 2010 Cornas "Cuvee Casimir" - with some air this is recognizable as Cornas but it's a bit shiny and not very interesting; not sure whether that's the fault of the house (as some said) or the bottle; I opened it only because there's a rumor that 2010s are starting to show something; forgive me, BJ

Haart 2001 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese - gorgeous, silky, a little sweet, suhshine in a bottle, love it

Vincent Girardin 1999 Corton GC "Bressandes" - another closed-up wine, hard to recall it

Bruno Clavelier 2009 Chambolle-Musigny 1er VV "La Combe d'Orveau" - this is a strange one: lovely, forthcoming pinot nose followed by a gritty, bitter palate

Ch. Leoville-Barton 1994 Saint-Julien - only a quick taste as I'm running out the door: medium-weight and spot on, this should have been an enjoyable bottle
 
I should add: Other of the usual haunts are also changing. Dickson's now operates on an order-number basis. Lucy's Whey is gone, searching for bigger digs. The grocer is renovating their space so they have a slim footprint currently.
 
Oh, this update pains me, though I'm glad for it.

Gone are the days when the ox fall down,
Take up the yoke and plow the fields around.
 
Is there a general consensus regarding the present state of 2009 red Burgundy? I'm finding them tightly wound, stingy even.
 
Not true! A recent 2009 Wind Gap Gap’s Crown and Griffin Lair Vineyards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 12.5% was singin' the blues in D.
 
As Jeff says, things seem to be going downhill fast there via severe cost cutting. They let Tyler go (along with 5 people up in the retail store) so it's just 2 people left downstairs. No paper towels in the kitchen, the decanters disappeared, a light bulb was out in the bathroom.

As always, thanks to Jeff for allowing me to piggy back off his formatting.

Taittinger 2006 Champagne BdB "Comtes de Champagne" - young,very, very nice, though I agree with Jayson that the 2004 I opened about 2 years ago showed better.

Felsina Berardenga 1986 IGT "Fontalloro" - a purchase from CSW about a week or 2 earlier, this was still vibrant and altogether delightful.

Ch. Cos d'Estournel 1989 Saint-Estephe - Hard as nails, if you have any hold them.

R. Lopez de Heredia 2004 Rioja Reserva "Vina Bosconia" - eh wine, showing rather lactic. Boring.

Franck Balthazar 2010 Cornas "Cuvee Casimir" - Not bad, nothing compelling but perfectly good syrah.

Haart 2001 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese - lovely wine though Jeff liked it more than I did.

Vincent Girardin 1999 Corton GC "Bressandes" - Not sure how Jeff registered this as closed, far and away the most open 1999 I've had in years. Juicy red fruits, very enjoyable.

Bruno Clavelier 2009 Chambolle-Musigny 1er VV "La Combe d'Orveau" - Quite ripe, a little oak (for Jayson too much oak) I still enjoyed it.

Ch. Leoville-Barton 1994 Saint-Julien - Excellent Bordeaux in an austere 1994 style.
 
I imagine you guys sitting on boxes and using wooden cases as tables, bottles on the floor and a dim, dust filled basement illuminated by a single incandescent bulb, cage wire behind you. How am I doing?
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
R. Lopez de Heredia 2004 Rioja Reserva "Vina Bosconia" - generic red; honestly, I can't even tell whether this is rioja wine, maybe someone knows whether it opened more later?
Click to expand...

OK, enough of playing language pedants; can we be wine snobs for a sec?

I've never been pleased with LdH Reserva. It just seems like, as the French would say, sitting between two chairs. Get 'em while they're young, or get 'em while they're properly aged, but just to get them while they're in that awkward stage?

Can anyone with more knowledge than I elucidate the reasoning behind a half-aged wine?
 
originally posted by MarkS:
I imagine you guys sitting on boxes and using wooden cases as tables, bottles on the floor and a dim, dust filled basement illuminated by a single incandescent bulb, cage wire behind you. How am I doing?
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No, but as part of their "upgrade" they do plan to replace the existing perfectly nice table with a higher table and stools. Ira and I both looked at them with horror and our backs twinged in anticipation.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
Oh, on that (LdH) note, shouldn't the Rosado be coming back impendingly? (Well, a year, but that seems quick, now.)
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I thought the 2008 was due to be released late this year? Of course that info is from some years ago so it may be out of date.
 
I also opened the only 2 bottles of Central Coast Syrah I ever bought. 1996 Ojai Roll Ranch was viciously corked, followed by backup 1996 Ojai Bien Nacido, which was more varietally correct, interesting, balanced, bottle sweet, and integrated than I would have imagined. No wood evident. Even better the next day. A mix of purplish and reddish (pomegranate maybe) fruit. A great surprise. Even Jay seemed to like it!!
 
2004 Bosconia Res is a strange miss. 2004 Tondonia Res is not.

Do not write off LdH reservas. Still a great bargain in ageworthy wine despite the strange 2004 Bosconia.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
2004 Bosconia Res is a strange miss. 2004 Tondonia Res is not.

Do not write off LdH reservas. Still a great bargain in ageworthy wine despite the strange 2004 Bosconia.
Click to expand...

always preferred the whites from LdH to the reds.
 
originally posted by Bill Lundstrom:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
2004 Bosconia Res is a strange miss. 2004 Tondonia Res is not.

Do not write off LdH reservas. Still a great bargain in ageworthy wine despite the strange 2004 Bosconia.
Click to expand...

always preferred the whites from LdH to the reds.
Click to expand...

That sounds a little like asking me which of my sons I love more.
 
The reds take much longer to show their stuff, but when they do, they are among the most stupendous wines on the planet. But a half bottle of 2004 Tondonia Reserva opened a few months ago was oak soup.
 
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