TN: That Old Man (June 24, 2017)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Ira, Ed, Jay, Jayson, Marc, Jeff

Ira's bday. We prise the memento mori skull from his grip, hand him a Zalto and convene the, um, er, unconventionals who haunt NYC wine establishments.

Not that this place is going to be a wine establishment for long, judging by the look of it. The place is a wreck, the sink is disgusting, the dining table is a long low banquette of dubious stability. But there are four fancy refrigerators now, as well as a couple pretty fateuils with striped silk covering. So, for the two people in Chelsea who want a snifter of cognac while chaos swirls around them: they're ready.

Meanwhile, we heap the table up with truffled ham, speck, mortadella ("But we haven't had any tadella yet!" -Jay, the comic), roast beef, several kinds of breads and cheeses.

And wine:

Taittinger 2002 Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs "Comte de Champagne" - youthful, clear and focused, great wine

Von Winning 2013 Deidesheimer Kalkofen GG - acidity is sound but it smells of old wood, were this just any white wine I might not object but this flunks my test for riesling

Clos Rougeard 2005 Saumur Blanc "Breze" - a good bottle of this, too: waxy, pure, just barely apricot; enjoy, no one can afford it anymore

Muller-Catoir 1998 Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken - vivid, fragrant, OMG wine; talk at the table is how amazing is the entire range of M-C wines in 1998

Zind-Humbrecht 1994 Gewurztraminer Hengst VT - I forgot about this one; yeah, it's older gewurz so not overpoweringly flowery but heading in the pencil shavings / sweaty underarms direction so meh

Bassermann-Jordan 1976 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Auslese - 5 106 064 6 77, lovely old wine, not sherried and not as sweet as it once was, too

Muller-Catoir 1998 Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Auslese - 375ml, more wonderfulness, need I go on?

Dom. de la Cote Sainte-Epine 2015 St-Joseph VV - way too young, unpleasant in fact, universally dumped, other vintages have shown nicer

Ch. Fonsalette 2000 Syrah - good straight-up Rhone syrah

Burgaud 1997 Cote-Rotie - a little more complex than the Fonsalette, also an excellent bottle of wine despite the warm vintage

Dunn 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain - vigorous but rounding at the edges a little, finally; especially good with the roast beef

Felsina Berardenga 1990 IGT "Fontalloro" - amazingly youthful, so many moreish wines today

Minuto 1988 Barbaresco Riserva "Sori Montestefano" - thinning out a bit but beautiful old nebbiolo palate: still tannic but the rest has harmonized

Happy Birthday, Ira!
 
Clos Rougeard 2005 Saumur Blanc "Breze" - a good bottle of this, too: waxy, pure, just barely apricot; enjoy, no one can afford it anymore

Bloody shame. Nice wine.
 
Nice set of wines.

Is there a fear of 76 Ausleses getting sherried/oxidized?

I know things happen with all wines as they age, but the 76s were such botrytis bombs (for the time period) I thought that would continue to dominate the character.

Of course I haven't had one in years.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Is there a fear of 76 Ausleses getting sherried/oxidized?

I know things happen with all wines as they age, but the 76s were such botrytis bombs (for the time period) I thought that would continue to dominate the character.
This one was not sherried at all. And still tasted of botrytis.
 
originally posted by Chris Coad:
Clos Rougeard 2005 Saumur Blanc "Breze" - a good bottle of this, too: waxy, pure, just barely apricot; enjoy, no one can afford it anymore

Bloody shame. Nice wine.

Too oaky.

Those '98 Muller Catoirs are the bomb, though. Even that '98 Halbtrocken, which I put atop the list of best Trocken/Halbtrockens that I've had, though, as most know, I generally dislike both genres.
 
1991 Dunn was Howell Mountain.

1998 M-C Halbtrocken was Haardter Burgergarten Spatlese Halbtrocken.

2013 Von Winning was Deidesheimer Kalkofen GG.

Didn't get to do notes on the M-C Auslese so don't have specifics.

Also there was 1994 Z-H Gewurztraminer Hengst VT.

Great time, great buzz.
 
originally posted by Marc Hanes:
1991 Dunn was Howell Mountain.

1998 M-C Halbtrocken was Haardter Burgergarten Spatlese Halbtrocken.

2013 Von Winning was Deidesheimer Kalkofen GG.

Didn't get to do notes on the M-C Auslese so don't have specifics.

Also there was 1994 Z-H Gewurztraminer Hengst VT.

Great time, great buzz.
Thank you, Mark. I had forgotten all about the older gewurz. It's not a category I like much so I give myself a pass.

OP updated.
 
originally posted by Marc Hanes:
1991 Dunn was Howell Mountain.

Cool, I've got one of these on deck along with a Phelps Eisele from 1991.

My plan was to decant for sediment right before serving unless y'all have a different suggestion.

Really looking forward to these relics.
 
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