Nikolaihof Steiner Riesling Hund Question

[Gene Vilensky]

originally posted by kirk wallace:
Gene, I was certainly surprised by and unhappy with my '97. (And yes, you are right that I bought it on release and stored it well since then.) You and I have had many bottles of Nik older than this one with rare oxidized disappointments. So, I marked it up (hoped?) to bottle variation. I'll report back re other bottles, assuming we don't open them together.

Ahh, I apologize. I had misunderstood your post to imply that the Steiner Hunds don't age well. I now see that it was just an aside that that particular bottle was oxidized, not a statement that they don't age as well as Wachau Smaragds.

I think the 97 is the oldest Steiner Hund I've had. Most of the older Nikolaihofs I've drunk have been from the Vinothek series.

 

[kirk wallace]

I was lucky enough to have the 1983 SH last night at a great restaurant in Mautern, about 2 blocks from Nikolaihof. It was perfect. Pale beaten gold and still very fresh, especially after about 10 minutes of air - no decant. It held on impeccably for all 3 hours of dinner. Haunting and beautiful wine. And, not surprising given Georg’s note above, and mine re the ‘97 designated as Spatlese on the label. But totally dry and 12.5% abv.

 

[scottreiner]

originally posted by kirk wallace:
Example of older and better SHI was lucky enough to have the 1983 SH last night at a great restaurant in Mautern, about 2 blocks from Nikolaihof. It was perfect. Pale beaten gold and still very fresh, especially after about 10 minutes of air - no decant. It held on impeccably for all 3 hours of dinner. Haunting and beautiful wine. And, not surprising given Georg’s note above, and mine re the ‘97 designated as Spatlese on the label. But totally dry and 12.5% abv.

Damn!

 

[mark e]

originally posted by kirk wallace:
Example of older and better SHI was lucky enough to have the 1983 SH last night at a great restaurant in Mautern, about 2 blocks from Nikolaihof. It was perfect. Pale beaten gold and still very fresh, especially after about 10 minutes of air - no decant. It held on impeccably for all 3 hours of dinner. Haunting and beautiful wine. And, not surprising given Georg’s note above, and mine re the ‘97 designated as Spatlese on the label. But totally dry and 12.5% abv.

I'm assuming, Kirk, that you ate at Landaus Bacher (given that Mautern is a tiny town). Great wine service, list and service in general, but I never particularly liked the food. Much preferred eating at Nikolaihof.

However, your post does make a good point. I've never had a great older Nikolaihof riesling (GV, yes) in the US, only in Europe. They are delicate and don't seem to travel particularly well.

 

[kirk wallace]

Mark, the food last night at Bacher was excellent. Delicate without being pale, flavorful and respectful of the ingredients. Pretty much respecting the 3-flavors on the plate rule. Not having been before, I can’t say if this a shift.

We are scheduled for dinner at Nikolaihof tonight and am looking forward to it. (My Mark has graciously given me the late afternoon off so I can go taste with Niki or his designee at 4:30. My goal, given we finished lunch at Knoll at 3, is to be awake for dinner.)

 

[mark e]

originally posted by kirk wallace:
Mark, the food last night at Bacher was excellent. Delicate without being pale, flavorful and respectful of the ingredients. Pretty much respecting the 3-flavors on the plate rule. Not having been before, I can’t say if this a shift.

Definitely sounds like a shift. I would have termed it "tortured food" in years past - a bit like the French Laundry (which I didn't like) and overly fancy. Sounds lovely now.

We are scheduled for dinner at Nikolaihof tonight and am looking forward to it. ()My Mark has graciously given me the late afternoon off so I can go taste with Niki or his designee at 4:30. My goal, given we finished lunch at Knoll at 3, is to be awake for dinner.)

I always loved eating under the Kaiserlinden (the huge linden tree at the center of the courtyard). Have a great dinner.

 

[kirk wallace]

Mark, that tree is amazing! Too cold tonight to eat out there, but lovely rustic, honest, delicious food inside. Some sick, sick wines too. I’ll try to post more coherently about some separately, later.

 

[mark e]

originally posted by kirk wallace:
Mark, that tree is amazing! Too cold tonight to eat out there, but lovely rustic, honest, delicious food inside. Some sick, sick wines too. I’ll try to post more coherently about some separately, later.

Found an old photo of people eating in the courtyard under this 109-year-old tree:

 

[Oswaldo Costa]

Last night a magnificently ammo-like mag of 2006 Nik Im Weingebirge Grüner Federspiel smelled very enticing, but was acid-deficient, leading to a demi-secsuality that I'm not sure was that intentional.