TN: The Milling Room (Nov 7, 2017)

J

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Jayson, Suzanne, Jay, Ira, Jeff

No particular reason. It's BYO night at The Milling Room and, as one might suppose, one or two of us are well-known to the staff.

Bouchard 2012 Champagne Brut "Blanc de Noirs" "Roses de Jeanne" "Les Ursules" - disg 4/16, pretty wine, nice balance of leesy richness and acidity; with air, this gets a little more grippy and a little more lemony, which gives the wine a lighter palate impression

Vilmart 2006 Champagne Brut "Coeur de Cuvee" "Premier Cru" - six years older and showing some maturity: bergamot and almond and a little good chardonnay funk, tingly fizz and very full on the palate; I like this better

Juillot 1996 Corton-Charlemagne GC - beautiful minerally nose but the palate is buttered popcorn and axle grease, yeesh

Kelley Fox 2011 Pinot Noir, Maresh Vineyard - so very lifted yet not acetone-y, bright and light, pure red fruit, a whole different animal from the other pinots on the table

Bertheau 1991 Chambolle-Musigny 1er "Les Charmes" - the cork is quite corked but the wine is... OK? I get an initial whiff of swimming pool but then its gone; the wine is lacy and delicate, good but not distinctive, "very sweet" -Suzanne

Bruno Clair 2010 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er "La Dominode" - "I'm a fan of the producer" -Ira; very rich and full and dark!, black cherries and plenty of them, strong presence, infanticide but what a beautiful baby

Bruno Clair 1999 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er "La Dominode" - "Clearly the same beast, in bestial vintages" -Jayson; the same nose but starting to show some 'old Burgundy' scents... orange pith, kirsch, full-flavored but the acidity is starting to surge over the substance; excellent bottle

Roumier 1995 Morey-St-Denis 1er "Clos de la Bussiere" - "The nose is amazing" -Jay; indeed, this has a gorgeous perfumey nose and the palate is even more youthful and maybe even a tad rough; Jayson observes that this is one of Roumier's least-elegant 1ers; but hell's bells it's Roumier and nobody at the table can afford to buy it anymore so enjoy

Drouhin 1993 Bonnes-Mares GC - OMG, beauty and power, the nose still dark and fresh and vivid with great palate depth and length

Ch. Climens 1990 Sauternes-Barsac - 375 ml, just what it should be: sweet, clean, not zingy but firm

I took a few bottles home to follow:

On Day 2, the Kelley Fox is broadening a bit and coming down to Earth, while the '99 Dominode is basically unchanged.

On Day 3, the Climens is even more beautiful, the '99 Dominode now has a mild licorice tang, and the Kelley Fox is still piercingly juicy and slowly adding more basso to go with the tenor.
 
Thanks for writing this up, Jeff.

Loved Vilmart 2006. Not for those obsessed with extra brut.

Bouchard was perfectly fine as a starter but sort of *meh* next to the Vilmart as the evening progressed.

Very disappointed by the Juillot. To have a well stored, unpoxed 1996 Corton Charlie drink like pure diacetyl.

Reds later ....
 
What I appreciated about the Kelley Fox (under screwcap) was it is not trying to do too much. Quaffable, light and airy, restrained extraction, clear beam of Pinot fruit driven by acidity. Don’t overthink it, don’t look for dirt, don’t worry about the structure: just drink.

The Dominodes from ancient vines were excellent, special. Clearly from the same place and cellar but I think the winemaking has improved in the past couple decades. 1999 is still a little grumpy but to my palate just starting to develop tertiary character, especially prevalent in the finish. 2010 is more primary but perhaps has even more potential. The 2010 seemed to have an extra gear and an extra level of honest sweetness in comparison. It was really compelling Savigny.

The 1991 Bertheau came off earthy and brambly with a dollop of minty underbrush mixed with sous bois. Solid but surprisingly not very prototypically Chambolle-like given its age. I’ve heard CM-Charmes can need a lot of time to come around, and have seen that with Ponsot’s version, but I think we were all expecting a little more elegance here. As suggested, it was perhaps not a perfect bottle.

. . . .
 
As I was telling folks, this bottle of Roumier Bussiere was among the very first bottles of red Burgundy I ever bought (at Elie’s in Royal Oak, MI), and we discussed the fallacy of buying singletons of wines like this, dipping the toe in as newbies. Loved the red berry earthy maturing classic nose, a hint of spice. Still resolving the tannins but mouth watering. Good stuff. Still wish I had bought the amazing Chambolle village wine from 1995. I think Jay has some.

Based on a few recent experiences, Roumier 1995s appear to be drinking but early drinking and still maturing. This wine, Cras, Bonnes Mares.

1993 Drouhin Bonnes Mares was definitely a step up in power and palate impact. More dark fruited than the MSD, richer. Also still maturing — coming across as much younger and fresher than the 1990 Jay opened a few months ago — but drinking!! Delicious.

Great company to share few great bottles on another successful random Tuesday night at The Milling Room.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
As I was telling folks, this bottle of Roumier Bussiere was among the very first bottles of red Burgundy I ever bought (at Elie’s in Royal Oak, MI), and we discussed the fallacy of buying singletons of wines like this, dipping the toe in as newbies. Loved the red berry earthy maturing classic nose, a hint of spice. Still resolving the tannins but mouth watering. Good stuff. Still wish I had bought the amazing Chambolle village wine from 1995. I think Jay has some.
.
Click to expand...

I wish. I think I still have some 2001.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:

The Dominodes from ancient vines were excellent, special. Clearly from the same place and cellar but I think the winemaking has improved in the past couple decades.
Click to expand...
Based on a small sample size ('99, '02, '06), I would agree. Recent vintages seem prettier and less burly.

Love Kelley Fox's Maresh, although I've not had that 2011. The 2013 is so good right now.
 
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