CWD: 2010 Coudert Fleurie "Griffe du Marquis"

V

VLM

VLM
Had the 2010 Coudert Fleurie "Griffe de Marquis" the other night. This is the finest bottle of this I've had yet. It has started to open and I think it is in the beginning of what should be a 10+ year window. The fruit is still fresh and the structure has subsided somewhat. It could get even better once the nose develops more complexity, but it is delicious now. The most interesting aspect is the Vosne like texture on the palate. I assume this is the Burgundian élévage at work.

Glad to be rewarded by this wine, it has really blossomed. I was worried a few years back that these wouldn't come around. I think that the élévage takes some of the structured edge off of the Tardive. Maybe I'll open one of those this week to compare.
 
Sounds great. Too bad for me I drank all of mine.

I think the only vintage I have left is 2013. Will see how long I wait on that.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Sounds great. Too bad for me I drank all of mine.

I think the only vintage I have left is 2013. Will see how long I wait on that.
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2013 is a gentler vintage than 2010, but if you give it 2-3 more years I think you'll be happy. That being said, the 2011 has always been a more open version. I don't think I ever opened a 2013 and that's what CellarTracker says too so my advice is somewhat theoretical.
 
For good and bad, I tend to sit on my Coudert and Desvignes. The textural quality that Nathan mentions and that only bottle age brings is what I’m waiting for.
 
I also opened a bottle of the 2010 Griffe recently and thought of the last time I tasted it, which was at your house, Nathan, in early-ish 2016. While I agree the wine is in a better place now than it was then, I still thought it was too young. Ditto for the 2009, the inaugural vintage. The stuff is going to age like good premier cru Burgundy.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
For good and bad, I tend to sit on my Coudert and Desvignes. The textural quality that Nathan mentions and that only bottle age brings is what I’m waiting for.
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Man, it feels like 2000 around here. Ditto on the Desvignes.
 
originally posted by Michael Lewis:
I also opened a bottle of the 2010 Griffe recently and thought of the last time I tasted it, which was at your house, Nathan, in early-ish 2016. While I agree the wine is in a better place now than it was then, I still thought it was too young. Ditto for the 2009, the inaugural vintage. The stuff is going to age like good premier cru Burgundy.
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That's right, it was around the Southern Jeeb (speaking of which, I posted a thread on the jeebus bored about doing it again).

I think you're right that it will continue to improve, even for me, but I was really impressed at the strides since the last bottle.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
For good and bad, I tend to sit on my Coudert and Desvignes. The textural quality that Nathan mentions and that only bottle age brings is what I’m waiting for.
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Man, it feels like 2000 around here.
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Is that good or bad? Or good and bad?
 
I stopped buying this wine awhile back as the 2012 and 2013 didn't agree with me at all when tasted on release.
That said I have some 2009 and 2010 and look forward to checking in and seeing how they have developed.

The way I feel about this wine is kind of like how I feel about Pepiere Clisson. It's different and interesting but as time goes on I'm not really finding a place for that wine at my table, and will always reach for Briords, or in this case Tardive.
I would like to try the 2014 (Clisson) though.
 
originally posted by slaton:
I stopped buying this wine awhile back as the 2012 and 2013 didn't agree with me at all when tasted on release.
That said I have some 2009 and 2010 and look forward to checking in and seeing how they have developed.

The way I feel about this wine is kind of like how I feel about Pepiere Clisson. It's different and interesting but as time goes on I'm not really finding a place for that wine at my table, and will always reach for Briords, or in this case Tardive.
I would like to try the 2014 (Clisson) though.
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I feel very much the same. I have yet to try a Clisson that moves me any more than Briords does. I don't have enough experience with the Griffe de Marquis to say, but the Tardive sets a very high bar.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:
originally posted by slaton:
I stopped buying this wine awhile back as the 2012 and 2013 didn't agree with me at all when tasted on release.
That said I have some 2009 and 2010 and look forward to checking in and seeing how they have developed.

The way I feel about this wine is kind of like how I feel about Pepiere Clisson. It's different and interesting but as time goes on I'm not really finding a place for that wine at my table, and will always reach for Briords, or in this case Tardive.
I would like to try the 2014 (Clisson) though.
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I feel very much the same. I have yet to try a Clisson that moves me any more than Briords does. I don't have enough experience with the Griffe de Marquis to say, but the Tardive sets a very high bar.

Mark Lipton
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Clisson and Briords are different wines. Clisson is more like Chablis and Briords is unlike anything else. I don't really cellar these wines too long anymore, in fact, I only have a bit of Clisson in the cellar, but I drink them as young wines and enjoy them immensely. I'm going to have to start cellaring Briords again because it is now allocated (!!!) and I can't just have it whenever I want.

As for Coudert, my appreciation of the various wines has shifted around over time. I used to prefer the regular to the Tardive, but then started to prefer the Tardive. I was initially skeptical of the Griffe so there is no 2009 in the cellar, but was later wowed and started buying it instead of the regular. Just this past release I bought some of the regular to cellar for a bit. I love the different wines for different reasons, the laceyness of the regular, the intensity of the Tardive and the texture of the Griffe.
 
originally posted by VLM:
Clisson and Briords are different wines. Clisson is more like Chablis and Briords is unlike anything else. I don't really cellar these wines too long anymore, in fact, I only have a bit of Clisson in the cellar, but I drink them as young wines and enjoy them immensely. I'm going to have to start cellaring Briords again because it is now allocated (!!!) and I can't just have it whenever I want.
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I feel the same way about drinking Clisson young. But did drink a simply amazing, cellared bottle of 2010 Chateau Thebaud 2 weeks ago.
 
originally posted by BJ:
The 09 Tardive is too young. Just opened the first of 3 cases.
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Hm. Just opened one here a couple of weeks ago, as well, and thought it drank extremely well, albeit with ample potential for further development. Striking stylistic contrast with the 09 Vissoux Garants, which, I think comes from roughly the same area of Fleurie. So much wine, so little time.

I have Griffe in 11, 13, and 14, but not in large quantities, and have been practicing patience.
 
I think the Garants, like Coudert's Roilette, can go quite long, although it's also very good now - both these patches were formerly classified Moulin-a-Vent. However, right now, my recollection is that the Garants tasted dead out of the bottle, so that you might be tempted to pour it away; if so, I'd urge you to put it into the refrigerator for a day or two (or leave it open on the counter, which, if memory serves, is your standard practice) and try it again. I thought it was quite brilliant, after the extended, constrained exposure to air.

For what it's worth, I find this 'dead' phase to be a pattern with cru Beaujolais well-made in the voluptuous style, with lots of youthful fruit. Eventually, I find, these Beaujolais have the potential to come out the other side, dramatically changed into wines of an almost delicate profile, with lacy acidity and restrained fruit. Very interesting, really.

The stylistic contrast with Coudert's wine is that the Roilette is much less voluptuous initially, characterized instead by higher proportion of tannic structure to fruit. Thivin's Cote de Brouilly is also a relatively structured style (less so than usual in 09), though with less refinement than the Roilette, and Desvignes' Javernieres takes the structured approach almost to an extreme (I've yet to taste the Impenitants).

Vissoux's Trois Roches is juicier and deeper, imho, with longer time to maturity and potential for lengthier development. My idiosyncratic preference is for the Garants. But if you have reserves, it's probably not too soon to indulge in some trial-and-error sampling.

I've never taken to Vissoux's Poncie. For me, as with Lapierre's Morgan, there's just too much damn fruit.

Cheers.
 
Yeah, that dead phase gets pretty ugly and came as something of a surprise to me when I started cellaring these. Was hoping for some benefit from short to moderate aging. Oops.
 
Don't give up. The shocking truth is that the Vissoux cru wines can come through the other side of even terrible-tasting phases in good shape (similarly Tete's and some other vignerons' upper-echelon wines). My conjecture is that this scary stage is just the chemical decomposition of all that icky young fruit material. As I wrote above, after this material becomes integrated, and the wines approach maturity, they are very different in character from their youthful selves, and extremely fine.

Please note some edits and additions to my post immediately above.
 
originally posted by BJ:
The 09 Tardive is too young. Just opened the first of 3 cases.
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I had one in the last month or so that I thought was great. Thick fruit though, you've got to like that to think it was showing well.
 
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