TN: Two and Three (Dec 7, 2017)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
Jayson and I met at Maison Kayser for a spontaneous jeebus.

Falkenstein 2016 Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett "Alte Reben", like its brethren a few weeks ago, has the color of water, a nose of lemon and a hint of diesel, and a powerful floral palate with great intensity and sharp acidity. I did not detect any difference based on the "alte reben" indication. Good wine but it did not work with the salmon rillettes (made them taste fishy).

Levet 2014 Cote-Rotie "La Chavaroches" is recognizably Northern Rhone syrah, crisp, clean, pure, blue-fruited and stony. Unfortunately, as it open, it goes more and more lactic: at first, just a hint of it that reminds Jayson of coffee yogurt, but as it develops it is more and more noticeable on its own. It's just a baby so perhaps this will go away in 5-10 years.

Faurie 1992 Hermitage Rouge is dark, mature, earthy, a point. When first opened there is a rush of red fruit for a half hour then it settles down to a more boysenberry-and-turned-earth palate with a bit of sous-bois, as well. A great bottle (and we finished it).

Jayson and I tried to think of another region that had good wine in 1992 and came up fairly short. Red Burgundy, maybe?

I had also (mis-)remembered that this was the vintage shown by Faurie at the last Marche Aux Vins that I attended. Checking my notes now, however, I see he had brought the 1996; this 1992 came from Rare Wine Co.
 
This is why I no longer drink young N Rhone Syrah, Jeff. I find that the lactic notes are offputting, and several years in bottle will indeed see the end of them. I suspect that a Mollydooker Shake ought to do the same, but haven't given that a try.

Mark Lipton
 
1992 is not thought of as a particularly good vintage in the Northern Rhone either. This is why some are quite skeptical about the value of vintage generalizations. We had a quite wonderful 1990 Faurie Hermitage with Marie-Sabine in Paris last Tuesday. I didn't get any lactic notes. Just olives, leather, and also sous-bois.
 
California produced some very nice wines in 1992 (Steve Edmunds' Durell Vineyard Syrah comes to mind, and Dominus, Laurel Glen, and Montelena did well too), though I haven't opened one in a long time and have very few left. I liked the white Burgundies quite a bit, so much that they are long gone. It was a pretty strong vintage for Port. And in the past few years I've had two Savennières that were pretty enjoyable: a 1992 Nicolas Joly Savennières Roche aux Moines Clos de la Bergerie and a Closel Cuvée Spéciale I poured for Evelyne, which made it more special since her mother made it.
 
originally posted by MLipton:
This is why I no longer drink young N Rhone Syrah, Jeff. I find that the lactic notes are offputting, and several years in bottle will indeed see the end of them. I suspect that a Mollydooker Shake ought to do the same, but haven't given that a try.
Yet I tasted 50+ wines at the Reboule, just recently, and hardly a lactic note to be found. I think this may be more restricted than just all N Rhone syrah; perhaps, just the traditionalists?
 
As Evan said, 1992 was an excellent vintage across much of CA, plus there was Port. Also, I believe 1992 White Burgundies were heralded on release, though in a ripe, easygoing style.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by MLipton:
This is why I no longer drink young N Rhone Syrah, Jeff. I find that the lactic notes are offputting, and several years in bottle will indeed see the end of them. I suspect that a Mollydooker Shake ought to do the same, but haven't given that a try.
Yet I tasted 50+ wines at the Reboule, just recently, and hardly a lactic note to be found. I think this may be more restricted than just all N Rhone syrah; perhaps, just the traditionalists?

It may also be that there are differing sensitivities to those smells. I know that chez nous Jean is far more sensitive to oxidative notes and sulfur whereas I am more sensitive to pencil lead and lactic smells. And both of us get TCA at levels where others are perfectly happy with the wine...

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Mike Evans:
California produced some very nice wines in 1992 (Steve Edmunds' Durell Vineyard Syrah comes to mind, and Dominus, Laurel Glen, and Montelena did well too), though I haven't opened one in a long time and have very few left. I liked the white Burgundies quite a bit, so much that they are long gone. It was a pretty strong vintage for Port. And in the past few years I've had two Savennières that were pretty enjoyable: a 1992 Nicolas Joly Savennières Roche aux Moines Clos de la Bergerie and a Closel Cuvée Spéciale I poured for Evelyne, which made it more special since her mother made it.
Certainly, not fashionable to say so but the 1992 Harlan was quire good and IMO as good as they ever made. And the 1992 Leroy, Musigny was one of my life list wines.
Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Jayson and I tried to think of another region that had good wine in 1992 and came up fairly short. Red Burgundy, maybe?

An excellent, and an understandably underappreciated Riesling vintage in Alsace. Healthy grapes, excellent balance. The wines were deceivingly light early on, but got pretty interesting and more structured after 10 years. They pulled a mini-version of the 1985 red Bordeaux trick.
 
It's not bad in Germany or Burgundy either. Not great vintages, but good ones. Oh, and I've had some wonderful Austrians but does Prager ever make bad wine?

With my cold finally lifting I hope to finally start drinking a little again. Right bank Bordeaux tomorrow.
 
originally posted by MLipton:
This is why I no longer drink young N Rhone Syrah, Jeff. I find that the lactic notes are offputting, and several years in bottle will indeed see the end of them. I suspect that a Mollydooker Shake ought to do the same, but haven't given that a try.

Mark Lipton

I know that quality you mean, it's not quite lactic but I can't do better.
 
originally posted by Mike Evans:
California produced some very nice wines in 1992 (Steve Edmunds' Durell Vineyard Syrah comes to mind, and Dominus, Laurel Glen, and Montelena did well too), though I haven't opened one in a long time and have very few left. I liked the white Burgundies quite a bit, so much that they are long gone. It was a pretty strong vintage for Port. And in the past few years I've had two Savennières that were pretty enjoyable: a 1992 Nicolas Joly Savennières Roche aux Moines Clos de la Bergerie and a Closel Cuvée Spéciale I poured for Evelyne, which made it more special since her mother made it.

Exactly this. I'm not a huge port guy, but 1992 Taylor and Fonseca are both fantastic.
 
For me it was the Levet that had the boysenberry fruit, sharp black pepper that faded, and that strong coffee yogurt flavor and feel in the finish. We were drinking this because I’m trying to figure out if I like Levet, and the verdict is still out. It’s good but at that price point I’m thinking I’d rather pay a few shekels more and get Benetiere. I’ll retry this one tonight.

We discussed that the Faurie was on the cusp of turning into old red wine, so if this bottle is representative, drink now. It’s very good!

The Falkenstein is another crazy good one in 2016, but confirmed for me that the sweet spot is probably the spatlese feinherb. I’ll retry this one tonight too.

On 1992 there were great red Burgs and even more great white Burgs. I told Jeff the story about Dressner and 1992 Rousseau Chambertin at Oleg’s House, which was practically the instance the Dressner pour was discovered.

I had forgotten about Austria. Definitely great Prager wines from that year.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
For me it was the Levet that had the boysenberry fruit, sharp black pepper that faded, and that strong coffee yogurt flavor and feel in the finish. We were drinking this because I’m trying to figure out if I like Levet, and the verdict is still out. It’s good but at that price point I’m thinking I’d rather pay a few shekels more and get Benetiere. I’ll retry this one tonight.

You know, Levet has quickly gone from being underrated to overrated. The wines are cool and interesting, but they are in a distinctly wild style that folks confuse with "old school".

We discussed that the Faurie was on the cusp of turning into old red wine, so if this bottle is representative, drink now. It’s very good!

Faurie is my current Northern Rhone obsession. Sometimes you can get good deals.

The Falkenstein is another crazy good one in 2016, but confirmed for me that the sweet spot is probably the spatlese feinherb. I’ll retry this one tonight too.

I love the spalese feinherb. The kabinett trockens are really cool though. Briords except form riesling.

On 1992 there were great red Burgs and even more great white Burgs. I told Jeff the story about Dressner and 1992 Rousseau Chambertin at Oleg’s House, which was practically the instance the Dressner pour was discovered.

I remember him Dressnering an Allemand I brought to Inside. I was pissed at the time, but I'd gladly give that pour now.
 
Wild style for sure, but in what way is Levet not "old school"?? They taste pretty old school for me and they're definitely made that way.
 
Day 2:

Levet loses its dominant aromas and flavors, and goes to dull. Becomes all structure - soft tannins and rolling acidity. I’m not sure where this is going but it’s not going to get there (I’d guess) for a few years.

Falkenstein was more of the same on Day 2, but even more open. Absolutely delicious. Incredible length, flavor, purity, and delineation. Given the relative lack of track record, it’s not clear whether this will be better with age. It’s utterly compelling now.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
The Falkenstein is another crazy good one in 2016, but confirmed for me that the sweet spot is probably the spatlese feinherb.

that sounds about right. Among their amazing 2012s, trabener gaispfad spatlese feinherb is probably the "sweet spot" for me.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Sounds like the Levet has shut down. I guess keep tabs on it, till it opens up or runs out.

Yep. I'm very lukewarm about that bottle.

I have to be selective in my buying, and in any case I like to focus (per the other thread), so in the N. Rhone since Juge is basically done making wine and more generally with prices on the rise, I'm not sure if I continue to buy anything regularly. Maybe Benetiere Cordeloux and Eric's Cote Rotie. Barge is a little pricey.

In Cornas I now find a hole. Allemand prices have gone crazy, both on release and older vintages. Verset gone crazy. Juge is retiring for good, and the secondary market gone crazy. None of the other winemaking strikes my fancy like these three. My dream scenario is Eric enters a long-term metayage agreement with Olga Juge for the remaining vines under family ownership and makes a low production Cornas that is sold at current release pricing in the US.
 
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