A Monkey Convenes Crowds for Boillot Burgundies. Again.

Rahsaan

Rahsaan
Two plus years ago, VLM hosted this fine dinner. Last night, the public convened again at Rue Cler for another chance to drink the wines of Louis Boillot.

We were greeted by NV Aubry Brut, which was a truly lovely way to settle into the evening. We were also informed that it was the champagne served at the VLM wedding. Ah, to toast kings and queens!

We started with Volnay "Les Grands Poisots" 2014 and 2015. The 2014 was a wonderful revelation. I remember drinking the 2014 Evocelles (tasty and fun, at first) and the 2014 Brouillards (brooding and difficult) over a year ago but then deciding that they were getting awkward and needed to rest. No such concerns here, the fragrant and crisp but also relatively deep and expressive 2014 Grands Poisots was a true joy for everyone at our end of the table. Of course the 2015 was lovely, bigger, sunnier, less put together. Although it joined itself together with a bit of air and was fun to drink in its own way.

The Volnay "Les Brouillards" 2005 and 2015 was a huge contrast. The 2005 was dark, roasty and stacked, but at the same time when juxtaposed with the 2015, the 2005 had more evolution and was hinting at silk. The 2015 was much more unformed but the fun fruit and fragrance were there, so presumably one would be confident in buying.

At this point we switched to Gevrey-Chambertin 2015 and Gevrey-Chambertin "Evocelles" 2008. I don't remember much about the '15 Gevrey-Chambertin but the '08 Evocelles was a VLM Special and he gave the Hard Bark Sell to the crowd. After later discussion we agreed that this wine touches Nathan more than some of the rest of us, but I could still appreciate the bright fresh zippy Burgundy fruit, even if I don't fall in love.

We ended with the Pommard "Les Fremiers" 2008 and the Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Champonnets" 2008. Both nice wines but even if the Fremiers was not stereotypical Pommard, the combination of '08 and the end of the meal made it feel a bit hard and I probably didn't pay the proper attention. The Champonnets was easier to like, a bit rounder, plenty of lovely Boillot fragrance, although still in a restrained 08 mode and one wonders what more may develop with time.

All in all, a more-than-fine way to Tuesday!
 
Yes, I think that sums it up. As I was saying at the dinner, I really like the wines, the style suits me, and for the most part they showed well at the dinner. But each sip is not orgasmic and I can see how they are not for everyone, so I would never claim that they are THE BEST BURGUNDIES EVER!!
 
I don't know who this VLM is but he is obviously famous in various parts of the country, and I would probably side with him in projecting a slightly more positive attitude about Boillot's 08s. Many 08s are funny in that they've shown better than one would expect over the first decade, for two reasons - tons of dirt on display, and a medium density that adds transparency. Well, Boillot's 08s have an above-average density, so mix that in with your general perception of the vintage. I was not in the room obviously, but I could see how the "bright zippy fruit" was not supported to a point where it gave a somewhat superficial impression.
Thank you for the report.
 
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
... would probably side with him in projecting a slightly more positive attitude about Boillot's 08s.

This is good to hear. Somehow I ended up with a fair amount of 08 Boillot (by my modest standards, and making it almost 20% of all the red Burgundy I own right now). I never tasted as widely as others, and have heard lots of talk about 08 being great at the 'top levels' but harder and less charming lower down. My experiences have been mixed, but there are certainly many things for me to like about the vintage. So I'm keeping the faith.
 
Thanks for the report, Rahsaan. I think it supports my prejudices that Volnay often over-performs and that not everyone is born to love funky Gevrey or sturdy Pommard.
 
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