CWD: 2018 Southern Jeebus Part 1 wines w/multi-course

VLM

VLM
Rinaldi.jpg
 
Thanks to Jamie Wolff for providing the wines. An incredible evening. Not a single corked wine and everything showed amazingly well.

For me, the wines that stood out are the ones I expected the least from, 1990, 1994 and 2002. Wines from 1990 have always showed a little stewy or blocky for me, Jamie thinks that the vintage finally has enough age. 1994 and 2002 were both terrible, rainy vintages but these wines didn't show that. While lacking the intensity of something like 1996, they showed excellent balance and fruit.

The last flight, 2006-2008, seemed to me to mark a decidedly different era. The wines showed more polish and I found the 2008 in particular to be really lively, fresh and invigorating.

If I had to pick least favorites, they would be the 1985 and 2000 but I would still be happy to drink either of those wines on their own as a centerpiece of a meal. That's how good of a wine night we had.

I don't think I could pick a favorite, but I thought that flights 2 and 4 were flawless.

A couple of additions at the end to have with the cheese course were a 1989 François Pinon Vouvray Réserve Passerillée and a 2002 Domaine du Closel Savennières Clos du Papillon. I thought that the 1989 may have had a bit of TCA, but Master Lewis thinks that I just don't get old chenin. I still drank and enjoyed the layered freshness of it, so it wasn't nastily corked. The Closel was varnished wood and wool with honeyed tips. On the downside of a good life, but with something left to say.

A great start to the Southern jeebus. NC barbecue and fried chicken for lunch starts soon.
 
originally posted by VLM:


For me, the wines that stood out are the ones I expected the least from, 1990, 1994 and 2002. Wines from 1990 have always showed a little stewy or blocky for me, Jamie thinks that the vintage finally has enough age.

Thanks. Very interesting. Particularly regarding 1990 Barolo. At the time of release the wines weren't very interesting, and were vastly overshadowed by 1989 and even 1988. Too bad you could not have a flight of those three vintages to compare. I drank 1989 quite young (and subsequently as well, but my last bottle was a Conterno Gran Bussia which was glorious when consumed in 2005) but always eschewed 90. Sounds like things have changed. And maybe one cannot even find the other vintages. I did love 1996 as well, but probably drank them all too young, as well.
 
originally posted by VLM:

If I had to pick least favorites, they would be the 1985 and 2000 but I would still be happy to drink either of those wines on their own as a centerpiece of a meal. That's how good of a wine night we had.

Interesting. I really liked the 85, in part because it balanced the virtues of the wines surrounding it (82 and 90) and therefore seemed more harmonious.

originally posted by VLM:

I don't think I could pick a favorite, but I thought that flights 2 and 4 were flawless.

I was thinking the same thing. (Although of course all flights were great and the 2002 was particularly tasty given vintage expectations) Down at my end of the table folks were yearning for more age on the later flights, but I think you and I are in sync on the virtues of wine that is aged but still recognizable.

originally posted by VLM:

A couple of additions at the end to have with the cheese course were a 1989 François Pinon Vouvray Réserve Passerillée... I thought that the 1989 may have had a bit of TCA...

If so, that doesn't speak too well for my palate. Because I thought it was great. Although part of that was changing gears and refreshing the palate after 12 glasses of Barolo.

Hope you guys enjoyed lunch. I could barely think about food or booze for most of the day. But am rounding into form for this evening!
 
No 2001? I think that’s the one Rinaldi Barolo I own.
Nice to hear about the 2002 being a pleasant surprise.
 
Total kudos! Inspires me to test my few young and humble G. Rinaldis in the next few days, a young Freisa and two vintages of Rosae, maybe a young Langhe Nebbiolo.
 
Night 2 was another success. Everything showed well and was at least very good. Not sure if anyone took notes. Or even noted all the bottles!

Some of the more interesting drinks for me were the 2006 Rougeard Poyeux and Bourg. My heyday of drinking Rougeard was around 2002-2005, when I had easy/cheap access to 89, 90 and the mid-90s vintages, plus the recent releases. At the time, I thought they were polished full-bodied (even chocolatey in the ripe vintages) versions of Saumur that married Bordeaux-Saumur elements. Last night, the two 06s made me think more of Burgundy, with ripeness married to such seamless gentle elegance. Very nice.

Otherwise, everyone was excited to taste the 1999 Clos Rougeard l'Orphelin rose which was a generous contribution from Michael and definitely curious, if not mindblowing.

I really enjoyed the 1997 Bongran Macon Clessé Cuvée Tradition Sélection E.J. Thévenet from Mike, mainly because I so rarely drink that style of wine. Succulent and harmonious. Nathan complained about it being too old, but it still had plenty of vigor for my tastes.

Mike also treated us to the 1995 Denis Azay-le-Rideau Sec which never quite got around to offering me pleasure, but it was certainly fun to smell and taste that unique expression. I believe others got even more from it.

I was happy that my 2009 Rebholz Kastanienbusch Riesling seemed to go over well. It's a full-bodied golden vintage but expressed through the focused and direct Rebholz prism. It was my last bottle and probably my favorite showing.

Jamie waved the flag for Piedmont with 2007 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette Riserva and I believe we were all impressed. Ripe fleshy year but with clarity to the flavors and the structure.

A couple of Burgundies floated and unfortunately we never got the best of a reductive 2005 Tremblay Les Feusselottes but the 1998 Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin was really in the zone, at least for my palate.

A compelling debate swirled all night about whether the 1997 Domaine Filliatreau Saumur-Champigny Cuvée Buster was corked. Probably best left to Nathan and Michael to sort out. For me, it was not corked, but just a frank cabernet franc in all its glory, and quite the contrast to the 06 Rougeards.

There were also some 08 Ledru Champagnes. First the Cuvée du Goulté which was less my style than the Brut Nature. But I will leave it to the champagne geeks to hash out the minutiae.

Did I miss anything?

It was a fun time folks. Thanks and let's do it again soon!
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:

A compelling debate swirled all night about whether the 1997 Domaine Filliatreau Saumur-Champigny Cuvée Buster was corked. Probably best left to Nathan and Michael to sort out. For me, it was not corked, but just a frank cabernet franc in all its glory, and quite the contrast to the 06 Rougeards.

A shame. A bottle Don brought to my place a couple of weeks ago was beautiful.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
We did it againNight 2 was another success. Everything showed well and was at least very good. Not sure if anyone took notes. Or even noted all the bottles!

Some of the more interesting drinks for me were the 2006 Rougeard Poyeux and Bourg. My heyday of drinking Rougeard was around 2002-2005, when I had easy/cheap access to 89, 90 and the mid-90s vintages, plus the recent releases. At the time, I thought they were polished full-bodied (even chocolatey in the ripe vintages) versions of Saumur that married Bordeaux-Saumur elements. Last night, the two 06s made me think more of Burgundy, with ripeness married to such seamless gentle elegance. Very nice.

Otherwise, everyone was excited to taste the 1999 Clos Rougeard l'Orphelin rose which was a generous contribution from Michael and definitely curious, if not mindblowing.

I really enjoyed the 1997 Bongran Macon Clessé Cuvée Tradition Sélection E.J. Thévenet from Mike, mainly because I so rarely drink that style of wine. Succulent and harmonious. Nathan complained about it being too old, but it still had plenty of vigor for my tastes.

Mike also treated us to the 1995 Denis Azay-le-Rideau Sec which never quite got around to offering me pleasure, but it was certainly fun to smell and taste that unique expression. I believe others got even more from it.

I was happy that my 2009 Rebholz Kastanienbusch Riesling seemed to go over well. It's a full-bodied golden vintage but expressed through the focused and direct Rebholz prism. It was my last bottle and probably my favorite showing.

Jamie waved the flag for Piedmont with 2007 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette Riserva and I believe we were all impressed. Ripe fleshy year but with clarity to the flavors and the structure.

A couple of Burgundies floated and unfortunately we never got the best of a reductive 2005 Tremblay Les Feusselottes but the 1998 Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin was really in the zone, at least for my palate.

A compelling debate swirled all night about whether the 1997 Domaine Filliatreau Saumur-Champigny Cuvée Buster was corked. Probably best left to Nathan and Michael to sort out. For me, it was not corked, but just a frank cabernet franc in all its glory, and quite the contrast to the 06 Rougeards.

There were also some 08 Ledru Champagnes. First the Cuvée du Goulté which was less my style than the Brut Nature. But I will leave it to the champagne geeks to hash out the minutiae.

Did I miss anything?

It was a fun time folks. Thanks and let's do it again soon!

Wow x 2. You didn't find the Rougeards oaky? I opened these about a year ago and, while not bombs by any stretch, they had too much oak for me.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:

Wow x 2. You didn't find the Rougeards oaky? I opened these about a year ago and, while not bombs by any stretch, they had too much oak for me.

I can see that. The Filliatreau was the wine showing its cépage but from how they tasted in the glass, the Rougeards seemed to have nothing in common with it, grape or region-wise. Which is probably related to oak.

But I don't have much of handle on the wines, from having such little experience. As I wrote, my memories from 10+ years ago were of chocolatey oak (even at the same age), whereas these were so much more elegant and I was happy to have the experience. So it was all very interesting.

Needless to say I'm not even a buyer at $100, let alone the insane prices I just saw on WS!!
 
Some brief comments as I’m still recovering from the weekend and don’t have a lot of time right now, but I will try to add more later. The confluence of the Jeebus and the start of daylight savings time has been painful.

First, thanks to Nathan for organizing the weekend and for the wonderful hospitality from him and the rest of his family. Also, thanks to Jamie, Michael, Nathan, and Rahsaan for the wines you shared, it was a pleasure to meet each of you in person and I’m already looking forward to the next time.

On Friday night, I liked the 1985 better than the 1990, was pleasantly surprised by the 2002, and was least impressed by the 2000, but even my least favorite was a very good wine. Great quality across the board. The Pinon was definitely not corked. My Closel wan’t as good as the last bottle I opened.

Saturday lunch, which lasted pretty much until Saturday dinner, was a treat. I missed the details on the Champagne, but enjoyed it. The 1997, 2005, and 2009 Clos Roche Blanche Côt were each outstanding in their own ways, and Michael’s 2002 Huet Vouvray Petillant Reserve was fresh and delicious without even a hint of premox. The 2000 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie was in a sweet spot for me, with some roundness and nuttiness from age but with a fresh citrus twist and mineral foundation and a little funky potpourri florality. It illustrated that Nathan and I like the same wines but can prefer them at different stages.

Thanks Rahsaan, for the notes for Saturday night. Though I had a moment of doubt, I don’t think the Filliatreau was corked. It wasn’t quite as vibrant as the last bottle I opened last summer, which didn’t help it in comparison to the Rougeards. I preferred the rounder and more approachable Poyeaux, and didn’t find oak to be a problem with either of them. I agree that the Denis was more interesting than enjoyable. I liked it, but probably should have opened it in the morning as it was still coming around at the end of the night despite being decanted.

The Riesling was a treat, and one of the most enjoyable GGs I’ve had in some time. The Bongran for me was at peak, and I think Stephanie agreed with me while Nathan thought it had aged too far, so it is clear which member of that family has the superior palate. I loved the Mugneret-Gibourg, and was glad to get to try the Tremblay.

Special thanks to Michael for sharing the Rougeard rosé. Showing really pretty strawberry fruit, it seemed off-dry. It lacked structure so was almost like strawberry-flavored water on the palate in texture, but was surprisingly appealing nonetheless, as I think the sweetness helped to hold it together.

It was really a great weekend and was well worth the drive. Thanks to everyone, it was a pleasure to meet each of you. Special thanks to Rue Cler for the fine food and excellent service.
 
Wow, guys, fantastic lineup of wines and great notes. Thanks so much for the writeups. VLM, that menu looks phenomenal as well. Any thoughts about the food/wine interactions?

Mark Lipton
 
Back
Top