originally posted by Rahsaan:
We did it againNight 2 was another success. Everything showed well and was at least very good. Not sure if anyone took notes. Or even noted all the bottles!
Some of the more interesting drinks for me were the 2006 Rougeard Poyeux and Bourg. My heyday of drinking Rougeard was around 2002-2005, when I had easy/cheap access to 89, 90 and the mid-90s vintages, plus the recent releases. At the time, I thought they were polished full-bodied (even chocolatey in the ripe vintages) versions of Saumur that married Bordeaux-Saumur elements. Last night, the two 06s made me think more of Burgundy, with ripeness married to such seamless gentle elegance. Very nice.
Otherwise, everyone was excited to taste the 1999 Clos Rougeard l'Orphelin rose which was a generous contribution from Michael and definitely curious, if not mindblowing.
Those two reds both showed excellently, very composed versions of themselves, with the Poyeux showing a bit more plushness than I associate with this wine (I find it the most linear of the three reds). It's a shame that these wines have grown even more cultish. It's nice to be able to drink them without fetishizing the experience.
The rosé, OTOH, was a completely fetishistic experience. It was all nose and a palate like rainwater. I doubt I'll ever try it again, so it was a real intellectual treat. Stephanie was quite taken with it.
I really enjoyed the 1997 Bongran Macon Clessé Cuvée Tradition Sélection E.J. Thévenet from Mike, mainly because I so rarely drink that style of wine. Succulent and harmonious. Nathan complained about it being too old, but it still had plenty of vigor for my tastes.
Complain is unfair, I was really excited to try it but found it a little long in the tooth for my personal preferences. Stephanie loved it. I just think I would have liked it a bit better a few years ago. I felt the same way about a 2002 we had while in France.
Mike also treated us to the 1995 Denis Azay-le-Rideau Sec which never quite got around to offering me pleasure, but it was certainly fun to smell and taste that unique expression. I believe others got even more from it.
I'm one of those others. I loved this wine and have always had a soft spot for it. Incidentally, I had a wine from someone who has some of the Denis vines at Matthieu Baudry's wine bar in Chinon. It was quite good, if not the same intense monster.
I was happy that my 2009 Rebholz Kastanienbusch Riesling seemed to go over well. It's a full-bodied golden vintage but expressed through the focused and direct Rebholz prism. It was my last bottle and probably my favorite showing.
I thought this showed well. What is the soil here? It had a kind of saltiness under the fruit that I can't quite place. Flint?
Jamie waved the flag for Piedmont with 2007 Accomasso Barolo Rocchette Riserva and I believe we were all impressed. Ripe fleshy year but with clarity to the flavors and the structure.
I liked this a lot more than I expected to. I thought it might be a bit too old school and rustic in all the wrong ways since people are trying to make these wines a thing now by championing the lack of technique. I really liked the shape of the wine and the balance with the fruit.
A couple of Burgundies floated and unfortunately we never got the best of a reductive 2005 Tremblay Les Feusselottes but the 1998 Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin was really in the zone, at least for my palate.
It was a shame about the Tremblay since I urged Michael to bring it. Really, though, we had a low flaw rate for the weekend (with notable exceptions).
The Ruchottes was good, but will never be a great wine. I was taken in by the narrative of the low yields form the diseased old vines. It is a very good wine, but I think I drink it with overly high expectations.
A compelling debate swirled all night about whether the 1997 Domaine Filliatreau Saumur-Champigny Cuvée Buster was corked. Probably best left to Nathan and Michael to sort out. For me, it was not corked, but just a frank cabernet franc in all its glory, and quite the contrast to the 06 Rougeards.
This was most definitely corked.
There were also some 08 Ledru Champagnes. First the Cuvée du Goulté which was less my style than the Brut Nature. But I will leave it to the champagne geeks to hash out the minutiae.
There is something utterly unique about the wines. The power of the Ambonnay pinot I suppose.