How bad an idea is it to visit the Loire valley in October?

J

Jay Miller

Jay Miller
Our annual vacation falls in October this year and we're looking to spend some time in France ending with a few days in Paris. My original thought was Normandy (Arnold has never seen Mont St. Michel) but then I started thinking about the Loire. Neither of us have ever been and I've wanted to visit for a while. It should be lovely in Autumn but I was wondering about winery visits. I'm thinking that maybe I shouldn't even ask as I don't want to cause a bother during harvest? On the other hand it would be nice to finally see some of my favorite wineries.

And on yet another hand there should be no problem with visiting the Chateaux.

Any advice?

It would be around 10/14-10/27 with the last few days in Paris in case that matters.
 
Well, first, you need to know when harvest generally occurs. My guess is it would be mid to late September unless it was a late year, so if you go in October, in all probability, the grapes will be in. But I think Rahsaan worked a harvest many years ago, so he will know better than I do. Second, if you make appointments in advance, they can probably accomodate you one way or another. One domaine I go to in Cdp, the one year I stayed through harvest, made an appointment for us to be there when the wines came in and were put in the cuves to be vinified, which was pretty cool. So there can be advantages if you are there then.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
Well, first, you need to know when harvest generally occurs. My guess is it would be mid to late September unless it was a late year, so if you go in October, in all probability, the grapes will be in. But I think Rahsaan worked a harvest many years ago, so he will know better than I do.
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It was many years ago and every vintage is different.

But I think you are correct that mid-late September is the sweet spot, although later harvesting can occur (Baudry website says they began early-mid october in 2016 and 2012).

Either way, it sounds like the dates are set in stone vacation-wise, so even if winemakers have a bit less time than in other times of year, the main (personal) question is what the other alternative would be.
 
If your plans are not set in stone for Normandy and or the Loire, what about a few days in Paris combined with a visit to Corsica? It’s stunningly beautiful, has great wine and food, and likely to have better weather then in the north. I think you could get round trip tickets from Paris for a fair price.

But the Loire has many appeals as well. I remember a late fall trip to Piedmont with my spouse. In Barolo the weather was cold and wet, the food was tremendous and the wine glorious. I loved it but my wife, not as much. We spent the second half of the trip on the Ligurian coast. It was sunny and warm, great food, lovely walking, decent wine that went well with the food. My spouse enjoyed Liguria much more then Piedmont.
 
Ten days in the Loire might be a bit much unless you REALLY like chateaux. Most of cities you can do in a day or possibly two but I guess it depends on how many vignerons you want to visit. Nice for cycling if the weather is OK.
 
This was our agenda in 2010, extensively covered by a long trip report posted here:

Tuesday, October 12:
Domaine Mosse, Agnès & René Mosse
Domaine Joly, Nicolas & Virginie Joly

Wednesday, October 13
Domaine Richard Leroy
Domaine du Closel

Thursday, October 14
Dom. Pithon-Paillé, Jo and Isabelle Pithon & Joseph et Wendy Paillé
Chateau de Coulaine, Etienne et Pascale de Bonnaventure

Friday, October 15
Domaine Sébastien David, Sébastien David
Domaine Yannick Amirault

Saturday, October 16
Domaine Bernard Baudry, Mathieu Baudry
S.A. Huet

Sunday, October 17
Domaine du Collier Antoine Foucault et Caroline Boireau

Monday, October 18
Domaine Breton, Pierre & Catherine Breton
Domaine François Pinon

Tuesday, October 19
Les Cailloux du Paradis, Claude Courtois

Wednesday, October 20
Domaine de Bellivière, Eric Nicolas
Domaine Le Briseau, Christian Chaussard
Domaine l'Angevin, Jean-Pierre Robinot

Thursday, October 21
Domaine de Montrieux, Emile Heredia
Domaine des Maisons Brulées, Michel et Beatrice Augé
Clos Roche Blanche, Didier Barrouillet et Catherine Roussel

Friday, October 22
Clos de Tue Boeuf, Thierry Puzelat

Then Paris for the weekend...
 
Thanks Oswaldo! My itinerary will be less wine centric so as not to bore Arnold but I hope to manage a few.

Clos Roche Blanche would have been a dream. Alas...
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
Well, there is some other stuff to see in the Loire.
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This. The Loire is a great tourist destination even apart from oenotourism. And another endorsement of bicycling the Loire valley. Of course, much depends on weather at that time of the year.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
Well, there is some other stuff to see in the Loire.
Click to expand...

This. The Loire is a great tourist destination even apart from oenotourism. And another endorsement of bicycling the Loire valley. Of course, much depends on weather at that time of the year.

Mark Lipton
Click to expand...

Average high in October is 61, average low is 45 which is right in our wheelhouse. But I haven't been on a bicycle in about 40 years.
 
With respect to the Loire, Jay, it seems you would have a pretty great info resource there in Gotham at Chambers, to name but one.

Hope you have a great trip and look forward to hearing about it on the other side.
 
Don't even hesitate. You'll have a blast.

The Brittany border towns (Vitre, Josselin, etc.) are a super cool side trip if you're at that end...
 
originally posted by BJ:
Don't even hesitate. You'll have a blast.

The Brittany border towns (Vitre, Josselin, etc.) are a super cool side trip if you're at that end...
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As someone who has visited the Loire Valley 6 or so times and harvested grapes avec les vignerons I wholeheartedly agree with BJ! There is plenty to see and sense if you are interested in geology, culture, food, agriculture, history and viticulture. I didn't go to chateaux and I have only wonderful memories. And, yes, you can get on a bike after 40 years :') Somehow, Jay, I figured you were in your thirties.... Go!!!
I've been there in March, May, June, September and October. If the harvest is in full swing les vignerons are quite preoccupied. You might get a taste of verjus, though!
 
The Mme and I rented bikes in Orleans and rode them past Tours, a several day low key tour. It was really fun. Very nice riding, flattish.
 
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