Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
It is the Dressner Attack, Occupy Spoof, the PIH Benefit...
It is the annual LDM hoedown, hosted this year at restaurant Racines NY.
It is a gathering of the NYC tribe. I see John Morris, Mike Bassman, Levi Dalton and Ayako, Don Rice and Melissa, and a few more friendly drinkers. Of course, it's all hands on deck for the Chambers St crew and LDM: David, Jamie, Denyse, Jules, Kevin, Josefa.
And there are the vignerons, who are the greater part of the LDM extended family:
Fredrik Filliatreau, Saumur-Champigny
2015 Saumur Rouge "Chateau Fouquet"... 1.5; but very rich and full
2016 Saumur-Champigny... 1; good quaffing wine, probably nice at the table
2016 Saumur-Champigny "La Grande Vignolle"... 2;
Note: I was both surprised and pleased with the wine here. And even on the first sip, the tone was going to be set for the whole day => that 2015 is going to be too rich, ripe and full for me.
Thierry Puzelat (Clos de Tue-Boeuf), Touraine
2015 Touraine "Le Brin de Chevre"... 1; menu pineau, very pretty
2015 Touraine "Buisson Pouilleux"... 0; sauvignon blanc, well-made but dull
2016 Touraine "La Butte"... -1; Puzelat's gamay never hits me right and this one didn't either
Laura Lardy (Damien Coquelet) Beaujolais
2016 Beaujolais-Villages... -1; very light, of course some people like it for exactly that reason, but I want more wine in my wine
2016 Chiroubles... 0.5;
2016 Morgon "Cote de Py"... 0.5; others like this more than I did
Kewin Descombes, Beaujolais
2017 Beaujolais "Keke"... 1; another great gluggable wine
2015 Morgon... 1;
2014 Morgon "Vieille Vignes"... 1; others like this more than I did
Note: I'm always happy to find a typique Beaujolais for my dinner table.
Louis-Benoit and Violetta Desvignes, Beaujolais
2016 Morgon "Cote de Py"... 2; substantial material
2015 Morgon "Javernieres"... 0; way too sweet
Note: Louis-Benoit acknowledges how different these wines are from each other. He won't say anything bad about his children, of course, but does recommend laying down the 2015 for a while. Speaking of the 2016 he says that it is classic, "If you want to teach someone what is Beaujolais, this is it." I agree.
Eric Texier (although he was present he was forbidden to pour (he said) so his neighbors took on the task
2015 Chateauneuf-du-Pape... 2; juicy and bright, full of violets
Julien Libert (Combel la Serre) Cahors
2015 Cahors "Pur Fruit du Causse"... 1; drinks like a Beaujolais!
2015 Cahors "Cuvee du Chateau"... 1;
2015 Cahors "Au Cerisier"... 2; different nose, somewhat claustrophobic but also more definitely cherry-fruited; also a more substantial palate
Note: Lightweight and shapely for 'black wine', indeed.
Chiara Vigo (Romeo del Castello) Sicilia
2016 Etna Rosato "Vigorosa"... 0; eh, it's dry rose
2014 Etna Rosso "Vigo"... 0; even though the wood treatment is very mild it has dulled and muddied this nerello mascalese varietal a lot
2017 Olio d'oliva... pressed from an obscure local variety, Chiara explains that this is one product where modern methods have definitely improved over traditional ones, i.e., temperature control in a clean press produces much better oil; the oil was quite green, luxurious texture, more vegetal than herbal (artichoke > grass), low acidity with only a modest bite way into the finish
NV Acquavite di Pera Coscia... an eau-de-vie made from an obscure local variety, i.e., not Williams; the Coscia pear is small and mostly green but turns yellow when ripe; its flavor is delicate so it is not often used for distillation but grandfather planted the orchard so may as well do something with it; the spirit is made in a wood-fired still, customized for the purpose; I think she said the spirit comes out at 72 degrees but did not hear how it is cut back; the flavor is true and pure... and mild
Note: I know there's a lot of ink spilled over the "Vigo" but not for me.
Arianna Occhipinti, Sicilia
2016 Terre Siciliane "SP68" Bianco... 1; very flowery, overwhelming for me
2016 Terre Siciliane "SP68" Rosso... 0.5;
2015 Terre Siciliane Nero d'Avola "Siccagno"... 2; the name refers to the bush training of the vines, this is much more hearty and well-rounded than you might imagine
Note: I asked Arianna where on Sicilia is the estate. She said she can see Africa from her window.... :^)
Gloria Mayr (Nusserhof) Alto Adige
2015 Sudtirol Lagrein Kretzer Rosato... 1; juicy and fresh and more-ish
2013 VdT "T..." Teroldego... 1; minerally and interesting
Note: Gloria was very busy apologizing for her Teroldego... that she is too far north of the proper zone, that the folks at the next table had much better ones, etc etc etc. And, my goodness, she didn't need to say any of that!
Myrtha Zierock (Foradori) Trentino
2016 Vigneti delle Dolomiti "Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco"... 0; this is a riesling x pinot bianco cross, created a century ago by Mr. Manzoni; maybe it's better than what was there before but eh
2015 Vigneti delle Dolomiti Teroldego... 1; another juicy, clean, pure wine; a little matchsticky right now
2015 Vigneti delle Dolomiti Teroldego "Granato"... 2; ageworthy, raised half in oak and half in acacia ((there is another acacia-barrel-aged wine around here, too, but I failed to make a note))
Francesca Padovani (Campi di Fonterenza) Montalcino
2015 Vino Bianco "Biancospino"... 0; complicated wine (well, at least, complicated wine-making... a little in vat, a little in barrel, a little in amphora...) but does not thrill me
2015 Rosso di Montalcino "Alberello"... 1; a joyful, young wine; this is the first bottled vintage for these vines
2011 Brunello di Montalcino... 3; a difficult year generally but the vineyard sits on a base of clay and is surrounded by woods so was buffered against the hot dry weather around harvest
Nico Sciackitano (La Stoppa) Emilia
2015 Vino Rosso "Trebbiolo"... 0;
2011 IGT Emilia "Macchiona"... -1; a minor case of brett, I think; Nico says they do a 45-day maceration because they want to extract everything the grapes have to offer, and, in the bargain, the wine keeps better with fewer additions.
Note: All wines are barbera and bonarda.
Ivano and Paola Barbaglia (Santuvario) Alto Piemonte
2014 Santuvario Vino Rosso... 1; pretty and delicate
Note: Alas, Paola speaks no English so I could not learn why this isn't DOCG Boca.
Sara Saetti, Lambrusco
2016 Lambrusco dell'Emilia Rosato "Il Cadetto"... -2; just one day of maceration gives this wine its color, but there is a foxy(?) flavor in Lambrusco that does not appeal to me
2016 Lambrusco dell'Emilia "Rosso Viola"... 0; two weeks of maceration
Remi Branger (Dom. de la Pépière) Muscadet
2016 Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie... 1; lemony, but I prefer Briords
2016 Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie "Les Gras Moutons"... 0; this bottling never does it for me
2015 Muscadet Sevre et Maine "Clisson"... 3; perfect flavors and shape
Julien and François Pinon, Vouvray
2014 Vouvray Brut... 2.5; three years on the lees, this is an excellent version of the wine
2016 Vouvray "Le 16"... 1.5; sec-tendre, this is an all-in-one bottling because Pinon lost so much crop to hail and frost that it made no sense to keep the dry and sweet lots separate
2016 "Vin de Bougie" Pet Nat Rose... 0; saved by the candles from a weird early frost, didn't suit me today
Evelyne de Jessy (Dom. Closel) Savennières
2015 Savennieres "La Jalousie"... 2; bright and juicy, 1 year in tank
2015 Savennieres "Clos du Papillon"... 0.5; picked two weeks later so ripe, 2 years in wood
2006 Savennieres "Clos du Papillon"... 0; in the traditional sweet style (which she does not do any more), this smells like it might be sweet but really isn't, but it is old
Note: I am pleased to have unoxidized Savennieres to drink from here.
Eric and Christine Nicolas (Bellivière) Jasnières
2016 Les Arches de Belliviere VdF Blanc "Confluence"... 1; bright, young chenin
2015 Coteaux du Loir "Vieille Vignes Eparses"... 2; more recognizably chenin with good depth
2015 Coteaux du Loir "Rouge Gorge"... 2; I have already bought this wine so what more need I write for myself?
Vincent Poloczek (Immich-Batterieberg) Mosel
2015 Mosel C.A.I. Riesling Kabinett Trocken... 1.5; drink lots of this!
2015 Mosel Riesling Escheburg... 1; bigger but also chunky
2016 Mosel Riesling Ellergrub... 3; very fine and interesting, there is 23g RS here but nothing on the label that would tell you that or even hint at it; Vincent and I go back and forth a bit on what amount of RS used to pass for 'kabinett'
Note: Poor Vincent arrived just this morning and is very jet-lagged. And it isn't going to get any better as he heads off for points west, and then New Zealand.
Franzi Schmitt (Koehler-Ruprecht) Pfalz
2015 Pfalz Annaberg Chardonnay Spatlese Trocken... 0; others liked it better, in fact, it caused something of a stir (but chardonnay is a hard sell to me)
2016 Pfalz Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Kabinett Trocken... 2; surprisingly good and tangy, this wine started a discussion about whether the pradikat sugar levels are really a proxy measure for complexity (hence, whether you leave the sugar in or trocken it all away, the wine matrix is still fundamentally better from a higher pradikat)
2016 Pfalz Kallstadter Steinacker Riesling Kabinett... 2; 33g RS
René and Joseph Mosse, Anjou
2016 VdF Blanc Chenin... 1;
2016 VdF "Le Gros"... 1; gamay, grolleau, and a dollop of cot
2016 VdF "Roulez Jeunesse"... 0; pezzy, this is made from grenache and cinsault that Joseph buys from the south; I asked whether he swaps them any grolleau and he huffed that they never sell the domaine grolleau
João Roseira (Q. do Infantado) Porto
2015 Douro Tinto... 0; yup, that's red
2012 Late Bottled Vintage Porto... 1; a bit spirity (for what it is, I mean)
2007 Colheita Tawny Port... 3; stylish, light, and satisfying; if I recall it right, Joao said they pick a little early, to retain acids, then ferment it all the way dry - further than is usual; now that it has extra alcohol, he can go lightly on the brandy, and the style of the whole is less syrupy and more winey.
---
I chew the fat with everybody I can. Perhaps the widest perspective comes from Denyse. Her attention today is drawn to a couple of things:
Firstly, how many female winemakers there are! This is a sea change from the way things used to be in little Loire wineries. She is very encouraged by this.
Secondly, she is concerned that recent vintages, other than 2015, have all had hail or frost or simply bad weather or all three. Small domaines, like the ones favored by LDM, have a hard time making it from one year to the next. If there is not enough wine then there is not enough money for all the expenses to keep a domaine going: bottles, labels, equipment, rentals, licenses, taxes, and simply living.
Finally, while the annual trip to France takes place in Winter, her schedule now boasts an annual trip to Italy. In May! A much nicer trip, a much easier trip. And so many vigneron/nes to visit.
It is the annual LDM hoedown, hosted this year at restaurant Racines NY.
It is a gathering of the NYC tribe. I see John Morris, Mike Bassman, Levi Dalton and Ayako, Don Rice and Melissa, and a few more friendly drinkers. Of course, it's all hands on deck for the Chambers St crew and LDM: David, Jamie, Denyse, Jules, Kevin, Josefa.
And there are the vignerons, who are the greater part of the LDM extended family:
Fredrik Filliatreau, Saumur-Champigny
2015 Saumur Rouge "Chateau Fouquet"... 1.5; but very rich and full
2016 Saumur-Champigny... 1; good quaffing wine, probably nice at the table
2016 Saumur-Champigny "La Grande Vignolle"... 2;
Note: I was both surprised and pleased with the wine here. And even on the first sip, the tone was going to be set for the whole day => that 2015 is going to be too rich, ripe and full for me.
Thierry Puzelat (Clos de Tue-Boeuf), Touraine
2015 Touraine "Le Brin de Chevre"... 1; menu pineau, very pretty
2015 Touraine "Buisson Pouilleux"... 0; sauvignon blanc, well-made but dull
2016 Touraine "La Butte"... -1; Puzelat's gamay never hits me right and this one didn't either
Laura Lardy (Damien Coquelet) Beaujolais
2016 Beaujolais-Villages... -1; very light, of course some people like it for exactly that reason, but I want more wine in my wine
2016 Chiroubles... 0.5;
2016 Morgon "Cote de Py"... 0.5; others like this more than I did
Kewin Descombes, Beaujolais
2017 Beaujolais "Keke"... 1; another great gluggable wine
2015 Morgon... 1;
2014 Morgon "Vieille Vignes"... 1; others like this more than I did
Note: I'm always happy to find a typique Beaujolais for my dinner table.
Louis-Benoit and Violetta Desvignes, Beaujolais
2016 Morgon "Cote de Py"... 2; substantial material
2015 Morgon "Javernieres"... 0; way too sweet
Note: Louis-Benoit acknowledges how different these wines are from each other. He won't say anything bad about his children, of course, but does recommend laying down the 2015 for a while. Speaking of the 2016 he says that it is classic, "If you want to teach someone what is Beaujolais, this is it." I agree.
Eric Texier (although he was present he was forbidden to pour (he said) so his neighbors took on the task
2015 Chateauneuf-du-Pape... 2; juicy and bright, full of violets
Julien Libert (Combel la Serre) Cahors
2015 Cahors "Pur Fruit du Causse"... 1; drinks like a Beaujolais!
2015 Cahors "Cuvee du Chateau"... 1;
2015 Cahors "Au Cerisier"... 2; different nose, somewhat claustrophobic but also more definitely cherry-fruited; also a more substantial palate
Note: Lightweight and shapely for 'black wine', indeed.
Chiara Vigo (Romeo del Castello) Sicilia
2016 Etna Rosato "Vigorosa"... 0; eh, it's dry rose
2014 Etna Rosso "Vigo"... 0; even though the wood treatment is very mild it has dulled and muddied this nerello mascalese varietal a lot
2017 Olio d'oliva... pressed from an obscure local variety, Chiara explains that this is one product where modern methods have definitely improved over traditional ones, i.e., temperature control in a clean press produces much better oil; the oil was quite green, luxurious texture, more vegetal than herbal (artichoke > grass), low acidity with only a modest bite way into the finish
NV Acquavite di Pera Coscia... an eau-de-vie made from an obscure local variety, i.e., not Williams; the Coscia pear is small and mostly green but turns yellow when ripe; its flavor is delicate so it is not often used for distillation but grandfather planted the orchard so may as well do something with it; the spirit is made in a wood-fired still, customized for the purpose; I think she said the spirit comes out at 72 degrees but did not hear how it is cut back; the flavor is true and pure... and mild
Note: I know there's a lot of ink spilled over the "Vigo" but not for me.
Arianna Occhipinti, Sicilia
2016 Terre Siciliane "SP68" Bianco... 1; very flowery, overwhelming for me
2016 Terre Siciliane "SP68" Rosso... 0.5;
2015 Terre Siciliane Nero d'Avola "Siccagno"... 2; the name refers to the bush training of the vines, this is much more hearty and well-rounded than you might imagine
Note: I asked Arianna where on Sicilia is the estate. She said she can see Africa from her window.... :^)
Gloria Mayr (Nusserhof) Alto Adige
2015 Sudtirol Lagrein Kretzer Rosato... 1; juicy and fresh and more-ish
2013 VdT "T..." Teroldego... 1; minerally and interesting
Note: Gloria was very busy apologizing for her Teroldego... that she is too far north of the proper zone, that the folks at the next table had much better ones, etc etc etc. And, my goodness, she didn't need to say any of that!
Myrtha Zierock (Foradori) Trentino
2016 Vigneti delle Dolomiti "Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco"... 0; this is a riesling x pinot bianco cross, created a century ago by Mr. Manzoni; maybe it's better than what was there before but eh
2015 Vigneti delle Dolomiti Teroldego... 1; another juicy, clean, pure wine; a little matchsticky right now
2015 Vigneti delle Dolomiti Teroldego "Granato"... 2; ageworthy, raised half in oak and half in acacia ((there is another acacia-barrel-aged wine around here, too, but I failed to make a note))
Francesca Padovani (Campi di Fonterenza) Montalcino
2015 Vino Bianco "Biancospino"... 0; complicated wine (well, at least, complicated wine-making... a little in vat, a little in barrel, a little in amphora...) but does not thrill me
2015 Rosso di Montalcino "Alberello"... 1; a joyful, young wine; this is the first bottled vintage for these vines
2011 Brunello di Montalcino... 3; a difficult year generally but the vineyard sits on a base of clay and is surrounded by woods so was buffered against the hot dry weather around harvest
Nico Sciackitano (La Stoppa) Emilia
2015 Vino Rosso "Trebbiolo"... 0;
2011 IGT Emilia "Macchiona"... -1; a minor case of brett, I think; Nico says they do a 45-day maceration because they want to extract everything the grapes have to offer, and, in the bargain, the wine keeps better with fewer additions.
Note: All wines are barbera and bonarda.
Ivano and Paola Barbaglia (Santuvario) Alto Piemonte
2014 Santuvario Vino Rosso... 1; pretty and delicate
Note: Alas, Paola speaks no English so I could not learn why this isn't DOCG Boca.
Sara Saetti, Lambrusco
2016 Lambrusco dell'Emilia Rosato "Il Cadetto"... -2; just one day of maceration gives this wine its color, but there is a foxy(?) flavor in Lambrusco that does not appeal to me
2016 Lambrusco dell'Emilia "Rosso Viola"... 0; two weeks of maceration
Remi Branger (Dom. de la Pépière) Muscadet
2016 Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie... 1; lemony, but I prefer Briords
2016 Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie "Les Gras Moutons"... 0; this bottling never does it for me
2015 Muscadet Sevre et Maine "Clisson"... 3; perfect flavors and shape
Julien and François Pinon, Vouvray
2014 Vouvray Brut... 2.5; three years on the lees, this is an excellent version of the wine
2016 Vouvray "Le 16"... 1.5; sec-tendre, this is an all-in-one bottling because Pinon lost so much crop to hail and frost that it made no sense to keep the dry and sweet lots separate
2016 "Vin de Bougie" Pet Nat Rose... 0; saved by the candles from a weird early frost, didn't suit me today
Evelyne de Jessy (Dom. Closel) Savennières
2015 Savennieres "La Jalousie"... 2; bright and juicy, 1 year in tank
2015 Savennieres "Clos du Papillon"... 0.5; picked two weeks later so ripe, 2 years in wood
2006 Savennieres "Clos du Papillon"... 0; in the traditional sweet style (which she does not do any more), this smells like it might be sweet but really isn't, but it is old
Note: I am pleased to have unoxidized Savennieres to drink from here.
Eric and Christine Nicolas (Bellivière) Jasnières
2016 Les Arches de Belliviere VdF Blanc "Confluence"... 1; bright, young chenin
2015 Coteaux du Loir "Vieille Vignes Eparses"... 2; more recognizably chenin with good depth
2015 Coteaux du Loir "Rouge Gorge"... 2; I have already bought this wine so what more need I write for myself?
Vincent Poloczek (Immich-Batterieberg) Mosel
2015 Mosel C.A.I. Riesling Kabinett Trocken... 1.5; drink lots of this!
2015 Mosel Riesling Escheburg... 1; bigger but also chunky
2016 Mosel Riesling Ellergrub... 3; very fine and interesting, there is 23g RS here but nothing on the label that would tell you that or even hint at it; Vincent and I go back and forth a bit on what amount of RS used to pass for 'kabinett'
Note: Poor Vincent arrived just this morning and is very jet-lagged. And it isn't going to get any better as he heads off for points west, and then New Zealand.
Franzi Schmitt (Koehler-Ruprecht) Pfalz
2015 Pfalz Annaberg Chardonnay Spatlese Trocken... 0; others liked it better, in fact, it caused something of a stir (but chardonnay is a hard sell to me)
2016 Pfalz Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Kabinett Trocken... 2; surprisingly good and tangy, this wine started a discussion about whether the pradikat sugar levels are really a proxy measure for complexity (hence, whether you leave the sugar in or trocken it all away, the wine matrix is still fundamentally better from a higher pradikat)
2016 Pfalz Kallstadter Steinacker Riesling Kabinett... 2; 33g RS
René and Joseph Mosse, Anjou
2016 VdF Blanc Chenin... 1;
2016 VdF "Le Gros"... 1; gamay, grolleau, and a dollop of cot
2016 VdF "Roulez Jeunesse"... 0; pezzy, this is made from grenache and cinsault that Joseph buys from the south; I asked whether he swaps them any grolleau and he huffed that they never sell the domaine grolleau
João Roseira (Q. do Infantado) Porto
2015 Douro Tinto... 0; yup, that's red
2012 Late Bottled Vintage Porto... 1; a bit spirity (for what it is, I mean)
2007 Colheita Tawny Port... 3; stylish, light, and satisfying; if I recall it right, Joao said they pick a little early, to retain acids, then ferment it all the way dry - further than is usual; now that it has extra alcohol, he can go lightly on the brandy, and the style of the whole is less syrupy and more winey.
---
I chew the fat with everybody I can. Perhaps the widest perspective comes from Denyse. Her attention today is drawn to a couple of things:
Firstly, how many female winemakers there are! This is a sea change from the way things used to be in little Loire wineries. She is very encouraged by this.
Secondly, she is concerned that recent vintages, other than 2015, have all had hail or frost or simply bad weather or all three. Small domaines, like the ones favored by LDM, have a hard time making it from one year to the next. If there is not enough wine then there is not enough money for all the expenses to keep a domaine going: bottles, labels, equipment, rentals, licenses, taxes, and simply living.
Finally, while the annual trip to France takes place in Winter, her schedule now boasts an annual trip to Italy. In May! A much nicer trip, a much easier trip. And so many vigneron/nes to visit.