Two recent pairings

John M

John Meier
Boxler's 2015 sylvaner went quite well with a small celebration of my son's team winning their first little league game this season. Asimov recently wrote about silvaners, where he describes what one typically gets: "It is classically dry, light and graceful, moderate in alcohol and touched with herbal and floral notes." This description would fit better with Boxler's 2011 and 2014 sylvaners, which I loved. The 2015 is richer than "light and graceful" would indicate. Having given that caveat, I will say the Boxler did a very nice job of helping the adults recall the glee that a child can summon after winning a baseball game.

To help us celebrate our 25th wedding anniversary, we opened Zilliken's 1993 Saarburger Rausch Auslese (AP 05 94). Not only was this from our wedding vintage, we bought it at the estate when we visited in 2003. It was a beautiful mix of apples, citrus, and perhaps a bit of tropical fruit. The various aspects weren't in tension, but rather in balance, in a lovely, quiet manner. It called for a long period of sniffing and sipping and recounting our trip to German wine country fifteen years ago, and many other highlights over the past twenty-five years. There's a lot that can go wrong when you cellar wine, but when you get bottles like this, it is well worth the risk and effort.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Thanks, Jim. I hace a pile of '02 Zilliken Saarburger; good to know they'll have legs. Probably time to check in on one soon.

I would be happy to help you check on those! I have been a bit disappointed by a lack of acidity in some 2002ers, but that's not an issue I would expect at Zilliken. I tend to buy Zilliken in most vintages but I don't have a specific memory of opening something from them in 2002. Maybe I should dig around and see if there is one hiding in my stash.
 
I have to apologize - it looks like I was conflating Schloss Saarstein Serringer Schloss SL in memory with the Zilliken. Combination of aging brain, purchases from long ago, and waning interest in wines generally. I will try to be more careful in the future.

FWIW, the last Saarstein I opened was two years ago; was good but unexciting. Time for another check-up.
 
originally posted by John M:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Thanks, Jim. I hace a pile of '02 Zilliken Saarburger; good to know they'll have legs. Probably time to check in on one soon.

I would be happy to help you check on those! I have been a bit disappointed by a lack of acidity in some 2002ers, but that's not an issue I would expect at Zilliken. I tend to buy Zilliken in most vintages but I don't have a specific memory of opening something from them in 2002. Maybe I should dig around and see if there is one hiding in my stash.

Hi Ian,

I know you mentioned that you have 2002 Schoss Saarstein, not Zilliken, but I had dug up a half bottle of 2002 Zilliken after your first comment and before I read your update. Last night we had friends over for dinner, which gave me an excuse to try it. The 2002 Zilliken Auslese GK (AP 03 03) was a terrific bottle of wine. A lot of 2002ers are a bit soft for my taste, especially at the Auslese level, but that was definitely not an issue with this bottle. If I was prone to writing tasting notes I would mix together words and phrases like "lemon peal" "energetic" "dried tropical fruit" and "lean in the context of GK Auslese". If I run into another one tomorrow I wouldn't hesitate to drink it. And if I run into one in ten years I won't worry that it is over the hill.
 
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