TN: Corey Visits (May 25, 2018)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Jay+Arnold, Corey+Linda, Wilson+Sandra, Dale, Leo, Jeff

Corey and Linda have blown-in from the Windy City so we jeeb. We go to Ping's, one of Jay's favorite Chinatown haunts. They have a good kitchen and pull the seafood live from tanks that occupy the first floor of the restaurant.

We start with crispy little fish and razor clams in black bean sauce, then move on to a whole black sea bass, beautifully cooked two ways and laid out on a dressed platter, and finally Peking Duck, duck in red wine (smoky-crispy), and short ribs. Later, Wilson orders a plate of the fancy prawns and they are, indeed, delicate and fresh and delicious. (Alas, Corey keeps 'faux'sher so did not indulge.)

Champagne and the small plates:

Benoit Lahaye NV Champagne GC Brut Nature - disg 11/2016, bright and minerally and dry, enjoyable middle-of-the-road bubbles

Marie-Courtin 2013 Champagne Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs "Eloquence" - disg 4/2017, too delicate for me, Jay says it opens up later

Benoit Dehu "V13" Champagne "La Rue des Noyers" - disg 8/2016, 100% pinot meunier but I would never guess it (where da funk?); still very intense, full, structured

.
The fish:

Dauvissat 2005 Chablis 1er "La Forest" - I was worried about this bottle but all is well: not quite peak yet but all is in balance, chalk and shells, the fruit might come in a little more golden soon

Brundlmayr 1997 Gruner Veltliner "Alte Reben" - gorgeous, syrupy texture but not sweet, great wine

Dom. de la Pepiere 2005 Muscadet "Granite de Clisson" - a bottle not too grumpy to be opened: lots of lanolin, full, balanced fruit and minerality, long finish

Michel Redde 2014 Sancerre "Les Tuilieres" - young wine, clean and crisp, very typique, a bit more grassy than usual for Sancerre

.
The poultry:

Ch. La Pointe 1998 Pomerol - mixed berries, rather light, but all is like it should be, yum

Mystery Red - I can place it to Morey-Saint-Denis but no further, Ponsot 1995 Morey-St-Denis GC VV "Clos de la Roche" which is really nice but Dale thinks it is a little restrained by the modest vintage

Ch. Grand-Puy-Lacoste 2000 Pauillac - dirt and tobacco in spades, maybe a little too robust, hold

.
And on and on (but my note-taking is deteriorating):

Schloss Schoenborn 1997 Erbacher "Marcobrunn" Riesling Auslese - 31 052 014 98, gorgeous, apricots and green grapes, a wow wine

Fritz Haag 2001 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese - fuder 10, only modest sweetness is apparent, good body and good cut

Prinz von Hessen 2014 Riesling "dachsfilet" - note just says, "good"

Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan 2005 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Spatlese - 5 106 064 44 06, "Privy Council"?, no note

Ch. Rieussec 2001 Sauternes - a bit of vinyl bucket seat but that blows off, very rich, very sweet, I grab the bottle so I'll follow up

.
At the end of the evening, the NY crowd scampered back to their respective homes while the visitors know a good cocktail lounge nearby...

Wonderful to meet everyone.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Prinz von Hessen 2014 Riesling "dachsfilet" - note just says, "good" ...G

Looks like pretty good night with good bottles from all sorts of acceptable regions.

So it's perfectly understandable that you could't focus on the von Hessen. I got curious and went to google, where Jamie Goode's site is one of the first hits and reads:

"From the Badgers’ mountain, Dachsberg, this is made like a red wine, with fermentation of skins until 40% of the sugar has been used, and then pressing.

So, sort of orange wine like? Interesting.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Mystery Red - I can place it to Morey-Saint-Denis but no further, Ponsot 1995 Morey-St-Denis GC VV "Clos de la Roche" which is really nice

Oh, how I hate false modesty.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Ch. Rieussec 2001 Sauternes - a bit of vinyl bucket seat but that blows off, very rich, very sweet, I grab the bottle so I'll follow up
A week later: The assertive, slightly-unpleasant, slightly-chemical phenolics thing ("stuffing") has retreated. I can get notes of citrus peek out from behind the massive apricot-peach wall of flavor. Acidity is solid, in a supporting role. In short, more interesting than it was. I still have a bit left.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Ch. Rieussec 2001 Sauternes - a bit of vinyl bucket seat but that blows off, very rich, very sweet, I grab the bottle so I'll follow up
A week later: The assertive, slightly-unpleasant, slightly-chemical phenolics thing ("stuffing") has retreated. I can get notes of citrus peek out from behind the massive apricot-peach wall of flavor. Acidity is solid, in a supporting role. In short, more interesting than it was. I still have a bit left.

The oak didn't bother you on this?
 
originally posted by MarkS:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Ch. Rieussec 2001 Sauternes - a bit of vinyl bucket seat but that blows off, very rich, very sweet, I grab the bottle so I'll follow up
A week later: The assertive, slightly-unpleasant, slightly-chemical phenolics thing ("stuffing") has retreated. I can get notes of citrus peek out from behind the massive apricot-peach wall of flavor. Acidity is solid, in a supporting role. In short, more interesting than it was. I still have a bit left.

The oak didn't bother you on this?

When first opened it is very noticeable but doesn't quite make it all the way to "offensive" because of all the sugar thrown on top. Now, the oak has retreated some.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
When first opened it is very noticeable but doesn't quite make it all the way to "offensive" because of all the sugar thrown on top. Now, the oak has retreated some.
Over the second week, the oakiness and the sweetness play tag. One day, too oaky by far; another day, nectary and sweet. But the middle is slowly falling away and away.
 
On the other hand, I found a few snapshots on my phone that I have entitled, "The Leo and Corey Show":
2018-05-26_Leo_and_Corey.jpg
 
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