Impressions May 2018

VLM

VLM
2010 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Griffe du Marquis
This is drinking really well right now. Polished and deep. Very Vosne for lack of a better comparison.
2010 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive
Hard as nails. I got cocky after the great showing from the Griffe. When this wine is structured, it’s really structured.

2010 Georges Descombes Morgon Vieilles Vignes
2010 Georges Descombes Morgon Vieilles Vignes Magnum
Both delicious and in a perfect drinking window for me. Fresh lively fruit with some complications, really fun to drink and great at the table from both formats.
2011 Georges Descombes Morgon Vieilles Vignes
Even better than the 2010 and with more stuffing. I think the best is yet to come from this wine although it is still delicious now with food.
2011 Georges Descombes Régnié Vieilles Vignes Magnum
This was excellent as well, more red fruit where the Morgon is blue. Nice spicey brambly nuance. Great balance. 2011 was quite a year for Beaujolais. I made an accounting error and this was my last bottle. Unfortunately, about half of it was wasted on folks who were lucky enough to be at the same bbq I was.
2013 Georges Descombes Brouilly Vieilles Vignes
This is still a bit too young and more tightly coiled than the other Descombes.

2000 Louis Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin
Good but not great. Well mannered and polished and in a good level of development for me, just missing a little oomph and drive.

2005 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale
This was really excellent and showed really well even if it is in the beginning of a first drinking window. I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect and was pleasantly surprised. The fruit has rounded and there are nice woodsy and spice elements and it’s at once Nuits and not. Worth trying now if you have a few.

N.V. Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée No. 736
Several bottles from a lot I bought at auction. In a very good place. Creamy, fine mousse. I find this style delicious, but it is rounded.

2016 Bruno Duchêne Collioure La Pascole
Duchêne was one of our discoveries on our trip to Montreal in the fall but those bottles had some age on them which this could use. All wildness when we opened it, so it got recorked and back to the cellar. The next day it had unfolded a bit to show that lovely Grenache fruit and flowers that are at once cool and smashed against rocks thoroughly heated by the Mediterranean sun. Worth trying if you haven’t even better if it has a couple of years in a good cellar. Very natural so I think I might not buy it from just anywhere.

2014 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Clisson
Developing well. Nice intensity but also the roundness that comes with the long élévage. Drink now for me, hold for others.

2010 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Le Domaine
Corked. I only mention this because I’ve had an inordinate number of corked bottles of this particular wine.

1996 François Pinon Vouvray 1er Trie
A couple of bottles the best of which are as good as anything I've had recently. I’m going to continue to drink as many bottles of this as I can.

2011 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud
This is in an awesome spot right now. With just a little bit of air it shows really well. Fruit slapped on granite.
2012 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud
More intense and brooding than the 2011 and further away from a peak, but with the right kind of food off the grill, shows very well. I decanted it (sorry Eric) and that seemed to help a bit for the couple hours it lasted.

2015 Ferme de la Sansonnière (Mark Angeli) Les Vieilles Vignes des Blanderies
Just awesome. Definitely holding some rs, but real depth of fruit with complexity and a lightness despite the intensity. I'm so happy to have re-discovered these wines.
2016 Ferme de la Sansonnière (Mark Angeli) La Lune
Not as complex as the Blanderies, but hits many of the same notes albeit a bit blowsier.

2007 Le Piane Boca
An excellent bottle of this. For me, this hits all the sweet spots of Alpine Piedmontese wines. Real depth of fruit and complexity. Resolved at this point but I expect it will go on for quite a while. The corks on my bottles were soaked half-way up, so pristine bottles may show younger.

2014 Briceland Vineyards Petit Verdot Ishi Pishi Ranch
OK.

2011 Rhys Syrah Horseshoe Vineyard
Light bodied and OK, a bit underwhelming.

2013 Arnot-Roberts Cabernet Sauvignon Fellom Ranch
Still backward and closed. Stay away for years. Very intense. Should be excellent, but who knows as there is no track record just a sense of the balance of this young wine.
 
Good on you for letting the Descombes wines evolve a bit. I always want to drink them young, because I have enough other stuff aging. But I know they respond well to 5-10 years.

Also nice to get back into Angeli. Good to see the cycles turning back.

originally posted by VLM:

2016 Bruno Duchêne Collioure La Pascole
Very natural so I think I might not buy it from just anywhere.

Point taken. But are there any wines that you buy 'from just anywhere'?
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Good on you for letting the Descombes wines evolve a bit. I always want to drink them young, because I have enough other stuff aging. But I know they respond well to 5-10 years.

Also nice to get back into Angeli. Good to see the cycles turning back.

originally posted by VLM:

2016 Bruno Duchêne Collioure La Pascole
Very natural so I think I might not buy it from just anywhere.

Point taken. But are there any wines that you buy 'from just anywhere'?

If you get by, the only bottles available in the state of NC (aside form ym cellar) Angeli and Duchêne are at Rue Cler. Shameless plug.

My Duchêne comment is more about maybe having a bad experience at a wine bar where the storage was not great.

Oh, and I think the 2010 is about where I want it. 2015 is the current release, so they do some of the work for you.
 
Why doesn't the Griffe age more like the Tardive? Isn't the main difference in barrel aging? How does this make the Griffe accessible at a younger age, by comparison?

My youngest Griffe is the '11, and I've been trying to stay away from them; but perhaps I'm exercising an overabundance of caution.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Isn't the main difference in barrel aging? How does this make the Griffe accessible at a younger age, by comparison?
I think that's right. Barrels are porous and allow some oxygen into the wine.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Isn't the main difference in barrel aging? How does this make the Griffe accessible at a younger age, by comparison?
I think that's right. Barrels are porous and allow some oxygen into the wine.

Though they are supposedly no longer porous after the fifth use or so (opinions vary), at which point O only enters minimally through the bung hole edges.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Isn't the main difference in barrel aging? How does this make the Griffe accessible at a younger age, by comparison?
I think that's right. Barrels are porous and allow some oxygen into the wine.

Though they are supposedly no longer porous after the fifth use or so (opinions vary), at which point O only enters minimally through the bung hole edges.

This is interesting. I never thought about barrel aging in these terms before. Have there been any scientific studies showing, e.g., a change in the pore size distribution in barrels used for aging wine (before and after)? I would be interested in seeing that research.
 
x2

There are extra variables in that many estates sand the interiors of the barrels before re-use, and the degree of toast may have an impact.

fwiw, in a 2010 visit to Sébastien David in Saumur I picked up the following:

Sébastien David said that, in the first year of a barrel’s use, roughly half the oxygenation comes from bunghole seepage and half from the open wood pores. But the pores lose 70% of their capacity in the first year, 25% in the second, and the remaining 5% in the third. After that, oxygenation comes solely from bunghole seepage. But that remains a significant reason for preferring old wood barrels to airtight stainless steel.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Isn't the main difference in barrel aging? How does this make the Griffe accessible at a younger age, by comparison?
I think that's right. Barrels are porous and allow some oxygen into the wine.

Yes; but, as we know, many age-worthy wines are barrel-raised; whether oaky or neutral.

So I take your point, but would like to be able to envision the mechanism by which the Griffe drinks relatively young (dismissing any putative "Vandergriff" effect). (That's a joke, lest umbrage redound).
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
would like to be able to envision the mechanism by which the Griffe drinks relatively young

have we asked where Griffe grapes are from? They may very well be just a selection of Roillette grapes from the same places, I honestly don't know. But the difference in ageing between Fleury and "Fleury" can be enormous.
 
The 2013 St.-Julien en St-Alban Serine Vielle I opened last night was a bit grumpy. Aromatics of blackberry, citrusy musk, pepper, violets, and play-doh but quite closed in on itself (even with air time in the glass) and mostly structure on the palate. I will revisit tonight but this desperately needs some cellar time.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
The 2013 St.-Julien en St-Alban Serine Vielke I opened last night was a bit grumpy. Aromatics of blackberry, citrusy musk, pepper, violets, and play-doh but quite closed in on itself (even with air time in the glass) and mostky structure on the palate. I will revisit tonight but this desperately needs some cellar time.

2013 is a really intense, backward vintage. Amazingly, folks at the restaurant love it. I haven't broached one of mine yet.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
The 2013 St.-Julien en St-Alban Serine Vielke I opened last night was a bit grumpy. Aromatics of blackberry, citrusy musk, pepper, violets, and play-doh but quite closed in on itself (even with air time in the glass) and mostky structure on the palate. I will revisit tonight but this desperately needs some cellar time.

2013 is a really intense, backward vintage. Amazingly, folks at the restaurant love it. I haven't broached one of mine yet.

After loving the Brezeme, I wanted to try it. On Days 2-3 open, it was mellowing enough to show some yogurt-like creaminess (not lactic) and inner mouth aromatics, and was more seamless from front to back. I also think there is just a hint of VA in the wine that is interesting.

I would personally wait another 5 years to try another bottle, whereas I wouldn’t be afraid to open the Brezeme sooner.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
The 2013 St.-Julien en St-Alban Serine Vielke I opened last night was a bit grumpy. Aromatics of blackberry, citrusy musk, pepper, violets, and play-doh but quite closed in on itself (even with air time in the glass) and mostky structure on the palate. I will revisit tonight but this desperately needs some cellar time.

2013 is a really intense, backward vintage. Amazingly, folks at the restaurant love it. I haven't broached one of mine yet.

After loving the Brezeme, I wanted to try it. On Days 2-3 open, it was mellowing enough to show some yogurt-like creaminess (not lactic) and inner mouth aromatics, and was more seamless from front to back. I also think there is just a hint of VA in the wine that is interesting.

I would personally wait another 5 years to try another bottle, whereas I wouldn’t be afraid to open the Brezeme sooner.

Really, I'm terrified of the 2013 Brézème Pergaud.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
The 2013 St.-Julien en St-Alban Serine Vielke I opened last night was a bit grumpy. Aromatics of blackberry, citrusy musk, pepper, violets, and play-doh but quite closed in on itself (even with air time in the glass) and mostky structure on the palate. I will revisit tonight but this desperately needs some cellar time.

2013 is a really intense, backward vintage. Amazingly, folks at the restaurant love it. I haven't broached one of mine yet.

After loving the Brezeme, I wanted to try it. On Days 2-3 open, it was mellowing enough to show some yogurt-like creaminess (not lactic) and inner mouth aromatics, and was more seamless from front to back. I also think there is just a hint of VA in the wine that is interesting.

I would personally wait another 5 years to try another bottle, whereas I wouldn’t be afraid to open the Brezeme sooner.

Really, I'm terrified of the 2013 Brézème Pergaud.

Umm. Because it’s so good.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
The 2013 St.-Julien en St-Alban Serine Vielke I opened last night was a bit grumpy. Aromatics of blackberry, citrusy musk, pepper, violets, and play-doh but quite closed in on itself (even with air time in the glass) and mostky structure on the palate. I will revisit tonight but this desperately needs some cellar time.

2013 is a really intense, backward vintage. Amazingly, folks at the restaurant love it. I haven't broached one of mine yet.

After loving the Brezeme, I wanted to try it. On Days 2-3 open, it was mellowing enough to show some yogurt-like creaminess (not lactic) and inner mouth aromatics, and was more seamless from front to back. I also think there is just a hint of VA in the wine that is interesting.

I would personally wait another 5 years to try another bottle, whereas I wouldn’t be afraid to open the Brezeme sooner.

Really, I'm terrified of the 2013 Brézème Pergaud.

Umm. Because it’s so good.

Damn, maybe I'll drink it during this hurricane.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
The 2013 St.-Julien en St-Alban Serine Vielke I opened last night was a bit grumpy. Aromatics of blackberry, citrusy musk, pepper, violets, and play-doh but quite closed in on itself (even with air time in the glass) and mostky structure on the palate. I will revisit tonight but this desperately needs some cellar time.

2013 is a really intense, backward vintage. Amazingly, folks at the restaurant love it. I haven't broached one of mine yet.

After loving the Brezeme, I wanted to try it. On Days 2-3 open, it was mellowing enough to show some yogurt-like creaminess (not lactic) and inner mouth aromatics, and was more seamless from front to back. I also think there is just a hint of VA in the wine that is interesting.

I would personally wait another 5 years to try another bottle, whereas I wouldn’t be afraid to open the Brezeme sooner.

Really, I'm terrified of the 2013 Brézème Pergaud.

Umm. Because it’s so good.

Damn, maybe I'll drink it during this hurricane.

Just give it some time to air.
 
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