Van Hövel Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2012

Ian Fitzsimmons

Ian Fitzsimmons
I've been dabbling in Champagne one or two weekends a month recently, embracing, with advancing years, the apocryphal quote by J. Maynard Keynes (also, Samuel Johnson; to wit: “The feeling of friendship is like that of being comfortably filled with roast beef; love, like being enlivened with champagne.”)

This weekend I pulled instead a bottle of the titled wine; thoughts:

First, Scharzhofberg.

Second, von Hövel. I hear it bandied about that his Oberemmelerhütte is better, but the Scharzhofbergers from his hands that I've encountered have been flawless.

Third, MSR wines are always better the second or third day after opening. Today this wine was more open and flavorful than yesterday; tomorrow I bet the rough-ish acidity will become finer, and the wine more transparent.

The wine itself is relatively full-bodied, for a Kab, despite the signature low abv, with razorback acidity, residual sugar well-represented but (unlike the country's current chief exec) held firmly in-check. Mild lemony-citrus aroma and flavor.
 
Lots of truth, Ian. (I’m also partial to von Hovel’s Scharzhofberger and to MSR on days 2 and 3, most important I’ve found for wines less than 15ish and stored properly since release.)
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:


Third, MSR wines are always better the second or third day after opening. Today this wine was more open and flavorful than yesterday; tomorrow I bet the rough-ish acidity will become finer, and the wine more transparent..

'Always better' is a tough phrase.

More realistically, they are usually/always different. But I go back and forth over the years on which I prefer. There is something about the fresh juicy gulpability just after opening. And oxidation is not always a positive thing.
 
Since chez nous we be razorbacks, wines seldom last beyond the first day, so this is all academic, as is the difference between a tough phrase and a tough standard to be met.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
...with razorback acidity...
That's a type of pig. Perhaps you mean 'razor wire'?

Nope. Razorback is a figure of speech apt in the context to express my experience of this aspect of the wine. But thanks.

I have more, BTW. If you're ever (suddenly) in central Virginia, you can check my work.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:


Third, MSR wines are always better the second or third day after opening. Today this wine was more open and flavorful than yesterday; tomorrow I bet the rough-ish acidity will become finer, and the wine more transparent..

'Always better' is a tough phrase.

More realistically, they are usually/always different. But I go back and forth over the years on which I prefer. There is something about the fresh juicy gulpability just after opening. And oxidation is not always a positive thing.

Never say never; I'd imagined that the corollary is always say always.

Kidding, of course. I can't remember one of these wines I haven't preferred the second or third day, though, and the ones I open these days are mostly 15+ years old.

Mais, chacun ...
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:


Third, MSR wines are always better the second or third day after opening. Today this wine was more open and flavorful than yesterday; tomorrow I bet the rough-ish acidity will become finer, and the wine more transparent..

'Always better' is a tough phrase.

More realistically, they are usually/always different. But I go back and forth over the years on which I prefer. There is something about the fresh juicy gulpability just after opening. And oxidation is not always a positive thing.

Never say never; I'd imagined that the corollary is always say always.

Kidding, of course. I can't remember one of these wines I haven't preferred the second or third day, though, and the ones I open these days are mostly 15+ years old.

Mais, chacun ...

My preferred m.o. for Mosel wines is the same. I always want to track them over multiple days because of so many great experiences on days 2 and 3. Or in the case of young Prum, the second and third weeks.
 
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