Lieblicher Wein and I try try again

R

Rahsaan

Rahsaan
These past few weeks I've been revisiting one of my previous Big Loves - the German off-dry rieslings - which I have neglected in recent years.

This weekend began with 2011 Grunhaus Abtsberg Spätlese which was a lovely way to wind down the week while eating dinner outdoors. The vintage definitely shows juicy sweetness, but the sour verdant Grunhaus snap is also there. Lovely with dinner but maybe not the vintage (at least right now) to win my heart and stuff my cellar.

Similar theme with side-by-side bottles of 2011 and 2012 JJ Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese. At first the 2011 was much easier to drink with its juicy but lacy elegant white flowers. Very very delicious. In comparison, the 2012 was more structured and not as easy to penetrate. However, with a bit of air, the 2011 was always lacy and elegant pleasure but began to feel a bit soft and facile. In comparison, the dazzling mineral acid structure of the 2012 was much brighter and deeper and all around more compelling to my palate. Both were tasty, but 2012 would be the one for me.

However, despite the obvious tastiness of the wines, the flavors and textures were not hitting my inner sentiments the way they used to. I found myself wishing I had some dry riesling.

2016 von Othegraven Kanzemer Altenberg Kabinett was a step in the right direction with pale Saar briskness. Of course plenty of juicy slushy sugar, but very fine, very elegant, this is hitting my buttons. Now if only I could get a bit more grip.

Well then why not open the much-anticipated 2014 van Volxem Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp. Ahh.... Corked!!!!
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Lieblicher Wein and I try try againThese past few weeks I've been revisiting one of my previous Big Loves - the German off-dry rieslings - which I have neglected in recent years.

Similar theme with side-by-side bottles of 2011 and 2012 JJ Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese. At first the 2011 was much easier to drink with its juicy but lacy elegant white flowers. Very very delicious. In comparison, the 2012 was more structured and not as easy to penetrate. However, with a bit of air, the 2011 was always lacy and elegant pleasure but began to feel a bit soft and facile. In comparison, the dazzling mineral acid structure of the 2012 was much brighter and deeper and all around more compelling to my palate. Both were tasty, but 2012 would be the one for me.
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Thanks for the notes. JJ Prüm has fallen off my radar - undeservedly, I'm sure - as too many young wines were painful to drink, but I recently found a nearby restaurant with a bunch of somewhat older WS Spätlesen on their list (all at exactly the same price). Given our shared love of "dazzling mineral acid structure" which would you choose to drink now? They have 2008, 2010, 2011 and 2015. And they also have JJ's GH Spätlese from 2004, 2007, 2008 and 2010. Look forward to hearing from all those who have some ideas on these vintages.
 
JJ Prüm has also fallen off my radar, for years, even when I was drinking more of the off-dry wines. Similar reason as you, plus the general 'problem' of too many wines too little time. So will look for others to give more specific input on how the wines are showing.

But given what we know about vintages, I think it's safe to say that 11 and 15 might not be your first choice.
 
Not sure about that Rahsaan. The 2015s are more structured than 2011s, and also more complete in terms of the acid-structure dazzle factor. They have a lot to say. But re: Mark’s request for comments, I agree I wouldn’t touch 2015 now unless you have patience to drink a bottle over a few days, and that might not work when choosing off a restaurant list. I bet that 2004 GH is starting to sing. 2007s have been open too and although the vintage has a reputation for being ripe, the acid structure is very fine in Prum WS Spatlese, which I’ve had within the last year and I have in the cellar. So 2007 GH is also tempting although i don’t recall trying it. Would be most interesting to drink the 2004 and 2007 GH side by side. My gut tells me that the 2004 will dazzle.

I am giving my 2010s more time, but could be interesting to try, to see if the acidity is starting to integrate.
 
Speaking of striking the right acid-sugar balance, I’m looking forward to trying Falkenstein in 2017 after such a stupendous 2016.

Rahsaan, the Prum Kabinetts are fabulous if you are looking for a slightly slimmer package and still achieving Prum zen, but I’m guessing you are already well aware.

Then there are the Grunhaus Kabinetts. I dropped the ball there on the 2012s.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
Speaking of striking the right acid-sugar balance, I’m looking forward to trying Falkenstein in 2017 after such a stupendous 2016.
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You read my mind.

Especially after seeing the Mosel Fine Wines writeup for 2017, my plan for the week was to stop by a Saar-friendly store and see what Falkenstein and von Hövel 2017s are available. (Although I was a bit taken aback by the MFW drinking windows. I want something now!)
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
Speaking of striking the right acid-sugar balance, I’m looking forward to trying Falkenstein in 2017 after such a stupendous 2016.
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You read my mind.
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Me, too. Loved the 2016s.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
Not sure about that Rahsaan. The 2015s are more structured than 2011s, and also more complete in terms of the acid-structure dazzle factor. They have a lot to say. But re: Mark’s request for comments, I agree I wouldn’t touch 2015 now unless you have patience to drink a bottle over a few days, and that might not work when choosing off a restaurant list. I bet that 2004 GH is starting to sing. 2007s have been open too and although the vintage has a reputation for being ripe, the acid structure is very fine in Prum WS Spatlese, which I’ve had within the last year and I have in the cellar. So 2007 GH is also tempting although i don’t recall trying it. Would be most interesting to drink the 2004 and 2007 GH side by side. My gut tells me that the 2004 will dazzle.

I am giving my 2010s more time, but could be interesting to try, to see if the acidity is starting to integrate.
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I drink a lot of prum, mark, and i amwith jayson on the 04 gh

Oh and if you are determined to drink wehlen wine go with the 08.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
Speaking of striking the right acid-sugar balance, I’m looking forward to trying Falkenstein in 2017 after such a stupendous 2016.
Click to expand...

You read my mind.

Especially after seeing the Mosel Fine Wines writeup for 2017, my plan for the week was to stop by a Saar-friendly store and see what Falkenstein and von Hövel 2017s are available. (Although I was a bit taken aback by the MFW drinking windows. I want something now!)
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I absolutely love Falkenstein wines and drink them regularly. Interestingly I would not say they strike the right acid-sugar balance. I would say the acid is intentionally prominent.

Also Rahsaan - for me these days if I am not drinking dry rieslings I really love Feinherbs and maybe classic Kabinetts with with high acid. For Spatlese and higher I really prefer them to be very old.

So much to love and choose from in Germany!
 
For me, the issue with Prüm is how long it takes the sulfur to abate. After two days spent in Las Vegas this week,I won’t need any burnt matchsticks in my life for a year or more.

Mark Lipton
 
I decided to end my time in Berlin with a bit less sugar.

The 2017 Weiser-Künstler Wolfer Sonnenlay Kabinett trocken was all the pale fresh tart citrus minerals I could want. Despite that brisk bright and restrained flavor profile, there seemed to be a layered and tactile body hiding underneath. So while this was great aperitif/while-cooking-the-dinner wine now, I wonder if it may move up a register of interest with time.

2017 Grunhaus Alte Reben Feinherb was more approachable because of the extra sugar oomph, but of course always the chiseled verdant Grunhaus elements that lighten the tongue. It also hinted at a very firm (and dark black currant in flavor profile) core underneath, making you think there is more to come from what it a simple and attractive wine right now.

Drinking 2015 Schloss Neuweier Mauerberg was a treat because I started to explore the GGs from here a few years ago, but have not been able to keep up to date. This was not the GG and probably showed all the better for it right now. As I remember, the lovely combination of long linear sinews of wine, that show great power depth and force, but all muscle and no fat. So crisp and firm. Also a nice range of zesty savory (blanched nuts?) and clear citrus (lemon?) flavors. My kind of wine.

Also, why not drink the 2013 Enderle & Moll Muschelkalk Spätburgunder. It is gorgeous. After just a little bit of air the juicy fresh and so-drinkable-yet-also-detailed fruit gushes from the bottle. Absolutely perfect with cod in a tomato pesto sauce, chanterelles on the side, schupfnudlen, and a tomato salad dressed with pumpkin seed oil. (You might be suspicious because of the tomato elements, but you would be wrong!) Over the evening it gets more and more fragrant, further and further weakening my knees. I don’t think I would mistake it for Burgundy or Beaujolais, but at times it does make me think of the delicate crystal feathers of Burgundy or the fun sensuality of Beaujolais. Either way, that is some damned drinkable wine.
 
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Absolutely perfect with cod in a tomato pesto sauce, chanterelles on the side, schupfnudlen, and a tomato salad dressed with pumpkin seed oil.
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Which kinds of pumpkins?
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Generally Styrian hulless seed pumpkins (e.g., https://sowtrueseed.com/products/pumpkin-styrian-hulless )
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Good. I like that sludgy black wonderful seed oil. Which is hard to find in NYC but I have some butternut squash oil (from The Filling Station) that is tasty, too.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:


Good. I like that sludgy black wonderful seed oil. Which is hard to find in NYC but I have some butternut squash oil (from The Filling Station) that is tasty, too.
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Not sure about sludgy but I agree that it is wonderful. So much flavor and a pretty clean product (i.e. no additives).

Definitely hard to find in NC, which is why it is often high on my list of things to bring back. But our bags are overflowing so not this time.
 
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