Steve Edmunds
Steve Edmunds
Years ago, I can't remember how many ( a phenomenon that has grown suddenly more pronounced, as I approach 71), I was given a bottle of Baudry Chinon Rosé by Joe Dougherty. I was touched, and intrigued, to receive this bottle, and felt, correctly or not, that it was offered as an illustration of what really good rosé might aspire to be.
As already stated, I don't recall the provenance, in time, of this bottle, and therefore, not the vintage, but I remember being really impressed with how well put-together the wine was. Structure seemed to be foundational, and this baby was structured! Lean and lithe, with plenty of flavor, it was a laser-beam of pure energy, and delight!. Aha!, said I, to myself; a wine by which I might assess, in some way, my own efforts to produce a pink wine that might provide a satisfying experience for the discerning wino!
I think the next vintage turned out to be somewhat badly reduced, in a way that seemed unlikely to ever match its predecessor for pleasure in the drinking.
Then there was another really good one! Then a vintage I was unable to buy; maybe a small crop or something. There have been another year or two in between, one of which was among 3 wines in Eric Asimov's NYT rosé article a few years back, to be listed, among the top wines, as a cellar selection. (Mine was one of the other two)
I bought 4 bottles of the '17 version this afternoon, after having had a bottle a couple of weeks back, that, as I expected it would, moved me in the way (the best way) this wine can do. It's structured, it has immense depth, it is charming, it's seductive, it is lip-smacking, and on and on.
The bottle tonight is also exhibiting what seems to be a surprising richness. There is some sweetness, not involving sugar, of the Cabernet Franc. There is the vastness of complexity and texture from old vines, and from terroir. And I am moved again, to thank my lucky stars for the good fortune to be in a position to enjoy this lovely wine, and to be alive!
As already stated, I don't recall the provenance, in time, of this bottle, and therefore, not the vintage, but I remember being really impressed with how well put-together the wine was. Structure seemed to be foundational, and this baby was structured! Lean and lithe, with plenty of flavor, it was a laser-beam of pure energy, and delight!. Aha!, said I, to myself; a wine by which I might assess, in some way, my own efforts to produce a pink wine that might provide a satisfying experience for the discerning wino!
I think the next vintage turned out to be somewhat badly reduced, in a way that seemed unlikely to ever match its predecessor for pleasure in the drinking.
Then there was another really good one! Then a vintage I was unable to buy; maybe a small crop or something. There have been another year or two in between, one of which was among 3 wines in Eric Asimov's NYT rosé article a few years back, to be listed, among the top wines, as a cellar selection. (Mine was one of the other two)
I bought 4 bottles of the '17 version this afternoon, after having had a bottle a couple of weeks back, that, as I expected it would, moved me in the way (the best way) this wine can do. It's structured, it has immense depth, it is charming, it's seductive, it is lip-smacking, and on and on.
The bottle tonight is also exhibiting what seems to be a surprising richness. There is some sweetness, not involving sugar, of the Cabernet Franc. There is the vastness of complexity and texture from old vines, and from terroir. And I am moved again, to thank my lucky stars for the good fortune to be in a position to enjoy this lovely wine, and to be alive!
