TN: Wu's Wonton (Aug. 2, 2018)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Brad, Don, Chris, Greg, Jeff, JoeCz, Suzanne+Kenny, John, Jay, Jayson

John Tomasso visits the nabe.

My first visit to Wu's Wonton, another Chinatown desto for wine-drinkers. The kitchen can serve a lot of special plates -- Peking duck, suckling pig, live King Crab, etc. -- but you need to order a day ahead. The group settled on several ducks and half a pig.

As soon as we are seated, the pig hits the table. Um, guys, we were planning on having some appetizers first and maybe a few seafood plates before this. They take it away. Indeed, we order some excellent seafood dishes: the house special clams, the little silver fish, the anchovies and chives. The ducks are also very good; we took them in buns instead of pancakes and had a plate of legs to gnaw later.

But not everything was satisfactory. The table for 8 was kinda cramped for 11. The restaurant wants to spend at the bar so they basically won't bring water to the table. And by the time the pig comes back the skin has lost some of its crunch. Have I mentioned the police line-up overhead lights?

So, like most of these places, I'll eat here but I'm not a fanboy.

Cheerful wine, though:

De Moor 2014 Saint-Bris "Sans Bruit" - sauvignon blanc and sauvignon gris, the vanity name is occasionally needed when the wine does not meet AOC regs (4g rs), lemony and bright, good summer drink

Dom. de Vodanis NV Vouvray Petillant Brut - disg 5/16/17, the domaine was founded in 2007 by two friend who took over a long-term lease (for the Vodanis vineyard) that had recently been let lapse by Dom. Huet, beautiful chenin, chalky, slightly apricotty but not overripe, yum

Clos Roche Blanche 2004 Touraine Cot Malbec - too much shoe-polish for me

Peter Lauer 2016 VDP Ortswein "Senior" Ayler Riesling Fass 6 - 3 501 074 06 17, the story goes that grandpa used to choose one barrel of Ayler Kupp for serving to house guests, this is an homage bottling; in 2015 this was labelled "Trocken bis feinherb" at 14g rs; very beautiful, delicately sweet, crisp

Franco-Espaniola 1975 Rioja Bordoni GR - OMG nose of old dill, faded roses, and orange peel; the palate is much the same but more delicate; nice old bottle

X. Monnot 2014 Meursault "Les Chevalieres" - pale, a whiff of diesel (this is the right note but I'm sure confused about this wine), not typique chardonnay

Willi Haag 2015 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett - 2 577 049 16 16, tight at first, this improved with a lot of air, becoming rather full and floral with lots of old lady's handkerchief, yum

Ch. Beychevelle 1978 St-Julien - medium-weight, cranberry and citrus, somewhat sweet, an early soldier down

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2009 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese - 356 1077 2410, low acid, too ripe, meh

Dom. Savoye 2007 Morgon - magnum; someone said it was corked but must have been mild; I liked it

Texier 2013 Brezeme "Dom. Pergaud" Vieille Serine - deep and dark and definitely in need of more time

Foillard 2013 Morgon "3.14" - Strawberry Fields Forever, bright and juicy, thank you Suzanne

Texier 1999 Hermitage - the famous negociant bottling, unmistakably old Northern Rhone syrah, tasty and foursquare

Breton 1996 Bourgueil "Grand Mont" - another brett bomb

Ochota Barrels 2016 "The Fugazi Vineyard" - bottle 0599, 80% whole cluster, 80 days on the skins, an assault of old grenache, not really very ripe (which is good) and a suave texture, still a bit sugary and dense (and $60)

Thanks to Bradley for the photo:
2018-08-02_Wu_Wonton.jpg
 
A fun night. Always great to see Tomasso when he comes to town and nice of Greg and Joe CZ to make it in from the hinterlands.

I thought the '78 Beychevelle was easily the wine of the night. I did like the '09 Von Kesselstatt a lot more than you did, apparently. Certainly ripe, but there's plenty of acidity there. Still young and the baby fat just needs to recede a little but more for all the acidity to be apparent.
 
von Kesselstatts are underrated; understandably so given how spoiled we are in that part of the world

they do well with age

and they have a goldtropfchen!
 
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
von Kesselstatts are underrated; understandably so given how spoiled we are in that part of the world

they do well with age

and they have a goldtropfchen!

This one was not that well balanced. A lot of sugar despite the privileged site characteristics. Maybe it can go somewhere more interesting with age but I wouldn’t bet on it.
 
I really liked De Moor (so delicious and drinkable), Lauer, Monnot (needed a lot of air - then, a pure village Meursault that is typique in a good way IMO), Beychevelle (in a great place - seems like 78s are coming on), and Texier (last glass even better the next day).

The Lauer has either come a long way since Rieslingfeier last winter or much more likely is that that venue (however great it is) is just not conducive to young German Rieslings showing their best (i.e., pop, pour, drink). I thought it had gorgeous, dynamic, airy floral / botanical aromatics that were also present on the finish.

And I just love this Texier/Pergaud wine. Opens beautifully. It is so pure. And not too many others in the Rhône (maybe no one) are making Syrah like this - ok, technically Serine here. Strawberry Fields forever.
 
Suckling pig is traditionally served at the start of banquets.

The Savoye should be great, so it does sound like some TCA, perhaps.
 
originally posted by Yixin:
Suckling pig is traditionally served at the start of banquets.

The Savoye should be great, so it does sound like some TCA, perhaps.

And it's a great riesling match so I really didn't understand why it was sent back.

Though I assume because there was nothing else really red friendly being ordered.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
originally posted by Yixin:
Suckling pig is traditionally served at the start of banquets.

The Savoye should be great, so it does sound like some TCA, perhaps.

And it's a great riesling match so I really didn't understand why it was sent back.

Though I assume because there was nothing else really red friendly being ordered.

That and because we wanted appetizer and seafood dishes before a big meat portion.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
That and because we wanted appetizer and seafood dishes before a big meat portion.
You could have taken only a small portion.

There was no problem with the size of the pig. We pretty much demolished everything. Just in our normal progression, we tend to start with lighter and go heavier. Not understanding your lack of understanding of that.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
There was no problem with the size of the pig. We pretty much demolished everything. Just in our normal progression, we tend to start with lighter and go heavier. Not understanding your lack of understanding of that.
We ate at a Chinese restaurant. We ordered a Chinese dish. They served it to us in their culturally-correct style. But we insisted they serve the dishes in an American order, not a Chinese order. We could have been open to new things and tried it their way.

Not understanding your cultural boorishness.
 
originally posted by Karen Goetz:
you cultural Bores!!!

I had a lot to say but I will leave it at this. Please.

What's the point of an internet wine board if people can't have long pointless arguments over nothing. Killjoy!
 
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