Jayson Cohen
Jayson Cohen
This is a remarkable wine — thank you Pavel — that has me thinking about mortality. Last year I opened a bottle of the 1971 Le Haut Lieu Demi-Sec for folks and it was singing. Then there was the remarkable ‘52 Le Mont DS in 2000. Just two highly notable DS data points among dozens. If my intuition is right, this 2008 has greater potential than both those wines but needs time. So what does that mean for the 2008? In 2056 if I’m alive, I’ll be 86 years old, and this wine will be the same age as that ‘52 DS. Not that I wouldn’t enjoy every opportunity to drink this along the way or that I’m planning to save it that long. But is it time to start thinking more seriously about what needs to be laid down and left for the kids?.....
Nah. But to me it does suggest begging off new vintages and backfilling when the opportunity arises. One literally could not have too much of this wine in the cellar.
Now the wine. Quince-lemon marmalade and mustard seed aromas gain a vanilla custard in pate brisee depth and richness and honeysuckle lightness. These flavors are balanced in the mouth by an elegant but far from weightless and still very primary structure that needs time to unwind. It’s got the electricity of a new release. I will revisit tomorrow.
Nah. But to me it does suggest begging off new vintages and backfilling when the opportunity arises. One literally could not have too much of this wine in the cellar.
Now the wine. Quince-lemon marmalade and mustard seed aromas gain a vanilla custard in pate brisee depth and richness and honeysuckle lightness. These flavors are balanced in the mouth by an elegant but far from weightless and still very primary structure that needs time to unwind. It’s got the electricity of a new release. I will revisit tomorrow.