Chateaumeillant

Bob Semon

Bob Semon
I sit here with a bottle of 1998 Domaine Lanoix Chateaumeillant Cuvee du Chene Combeau laughing in my face. I feigned outrage when I saw the wine at my local wine purveyor taking up valuable shelf space way across the store from the mark down bin. Okay, I meant it a little, too. This wine has to be way over the hill. Like its contemporary CdP mentioned elsewhere. Dont you have to drink this stuff before the next vintage? But hey, where else an you get a Chateaumeillant in these parts? I set aside my general aversion to all things Gamay (could be well-dosed with Pinot, I rationalized) and coughed up the $13, (Ohio price unknown). Here I am a month an a half later wondering what to open.

It's been hit or miss lately. The 2005 Richou Anjou Chauvigne was pretty. Not exuberently fruity chenin, more tightly wound. Great mouthfilling minerality, though. The 2007 Grange Tiphane Touraine-Amboise Bel Air seemed unripe. Perhaps an effect of the difficult vintage that I've read about. Not a total failure, but difficult to enjoy. I think these things have a way of resolving themselves with time, though. The chenin fruit is clean and bright. Maybe I'll lose the other bottle for a decade or so. Not so hopeful about the 2004 Ogereau Anjou blanc. I really, really liked the 2002. It's still a great drink. The 04 that I opened was oxidized. Not the color, but rather the aroma and flavor were clearly scarred. I bought a half case of these on faith. Not a good season for faith, it seems. 5. More. Bottles.

2001 Ferrando Carema was tasty, if a bit reduced. Mountain-grown nebbiolo can be sullen. But I like nebbiolo in all of its moods. 2000 Corregia Roero was more of a forward, commercial wine. Sweetly fruity. These are sort of my everyday Nebbiolos, along with the Produttori Langhe.

1999 Saloman Riesling Pfaffenberg was unexpectedly over-the-hill. I guess I don't know what to expect from which Austrian rieslings. 2002 Aubuisieres Vouvray Les Girardieres is very satisfying. Great with Thai appetizers. As good a Vouvray as you can get at the price. I took a 2000 Girardin Maranges Clos des Loyeres to that dinner, too. It was nice. I can't remember much about it. Not bad with Thai food. And a bottle of some Austrian eiswein, pinot blanc, I think. Can't remember whose. Sorry. But it did pair well with the Gran Marnier creme brulee (not Thai).

Cole brought a 2000 Dagueneau Pur-Sang to Christmas dinner. It was delicious. It helped to ameliorate the salty roasted chicken. I need to hone my brining skills. There was also a 1995 De Vogue Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru. Nice enough. Maureen had been spoiling me on Grand Crus lately, though. I liked the 1997 Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny Marginale. It seemed to me to be imbued with the holidays. All cranberry and fireplace ash. Maureen thought it tarry. Cole liked it. I thought it good with the roasted potato and fig dish (thanks, Rahsaan). And I liked the 1997 Le Gallais Wiltinger braune Kupp Riesling Spatlese. Maureen thought it soft. I prefer to think of it as comfortable. Nice Saar slate/stone, without the usual Saar acid frame.

2005 Santa Barbara Verdicchio dei Castelli de Jesi Le Vaglie was uplifting. The white alter ego of Barolo's iron fist in a velvet glove. Nuts and herbs. The 2005 Orsolani Erbaluce di Caluso La Rustia has been open for almost a week. Not a hint of oxidation yet. Pink grapefruit, mango, and some hazelnut. Not the passito.

Oh. Chateaumeillant. It seems familiar. At first I thought Ciro. Hints of roof tar. Then Taurino Salice Salentino of bygone years. Lacrima di Morra dAlba, maybe? No I know! I once kept a bottle of Pelle Menetou-Salon rouge longer than I had planned. 1995, I think. This is older that that was, though. Aged upstream Loire Pinot. Really intriguing. Perhaps there is some Pinot here. Dried fruits, herbs. Smoke. Pomegranite seeds? Cut grass. Oh well. Whatever the aromas/flavors, I like it when a wine makes me feel nostalgic. Evoking small memories. Completing the circle. Or one of them, anyway. Chateaumeillant.
 
Bob,
Thanks for the notes, interesting.

I wonder about your supply chain. Without having had them recently, I am surprised by the Salomon, the Ogereau at least. Any common elements?

The '04 Ferrando Carema white is a very worthy successor.
 
originally posted by Bob Semon:
I thought it good with the roasted potato and fig dish (thanks, Rahsaan).

Did that work well for you?

I wasn't fond of how the figs turned out when I ended up making it. Surprisingly they were not sweet or intense enough. But maybe that was due to either a) weak Whole Foods figs or b) leaving them soaking too long in the tea.

Regardless, glad to hear it went well for you.
 
Wow, Chteaumeillant! As someone who spent long summers in the "bas Berry," that brings back memories. Though keeping one for 10 years seems hardy.
 
Yes there was a nice interaction between the Pur Sang and the salty chicken; there was something intensely ashy about the Saumur, but again with the food served it was fine. I am not sure it would have been so nice on its own or with more subtle food.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Bob,
Thanks for the notes, interesting.

I wonder about your supply chain. Without having had them recently, I am surprised by the Salomon, the Ogereau at least. Any common elements?

The '04 Ferrando Carema white is a very worthy successor.

Sorry. Went away for a while. Felt the need for some pillow wrestling.

The Ogereau arrived a couple of weeks ago from the left coast. It was in the same box as the Grange Tiphane, which was the opposite of tired. I also got a couple of bottles of 02 Ogereau Saint Lambert. I also really really like that wine based on what I bought in NY a few years ago. And I needed to fill out the case shipper. Now I have an excuse to open one.

Not sure where I got the Salomon. No price tag, so I likely had it shipped from somewhere. Ill check through my invoice archives. I have several more bottles of that as well. Mark e, its storage while in my possession has not been appreciably worse than other wines I have. But I dont remember earlier bottles being oxidized. Could be that the batch was sourced from multiple places. Perhaps more research is warranted. After all, there are no bad wines, only bad bottles of wine. Tee hee.

The 01 Ferrando Cariola was still quite good at last visit. Earlier this year, sometime.

Rahsaan, the figs were lightly sweet. Setton Farms dried Turkish figs from Harris Teeter. I didnt search out missions. Too lazy. I soaked them overnight. Robert Jackson Superior Assam, fwiw. Others at the table seemed satisfied. But then, they may have been being accommodating guests.
 
originally posted by Bob Semon:
Rahsaan, the figs were lightly sweet. Setton Farms dried Turkish figs from Harris Teeter. I didnt search out missions. Too lazy. I soaked them overnight. Robert Jackson Superior Assam, fwiw. Others at the table seemed satisfied. But then, they may have been being accommodating guests.

I am sure it was good, the recipe seemed great. I think my problem was that I ended up soaking them for almost 40 hours instead of just overnight because an impromptu Friday night dinner plan caused me to delay cooking them :)
 
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