TN: In the, um, "cellar" (Aug. 11, 2018)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Ira, Jay, Jayson, Jeff, John, Marc, Tyler

Woof, woof.

It is the dog days of summer.

The City is quiet, other than where the tourists throng. Ira successfully prevails upon Marc to host an extended tasting at the shop.

So we gather in the new place and carry-on as if we were in the old place:

Our wines reside in various towns in New Jersey, which is not the same as Aisle 2, but we pre-ordered a bunch to meet us there.

The table groans, albeit in a different key: less charcuterie, more cheese (Consider Bardwell's Rupert, Epoisse, a few more), smoked whitefish and Boulud pate, a nut mix that I have augmented with extra pistachios, and each of us thought the other was bringing bread. We did have a few fancy crackers and breadsticks but not really the kind meant to lay a slab of cheese on.

I arrive on time and pretty much everyone is already here. Jay is limping along but not too badly. John, of the store, is looking a little amused by us all. Marc is diligently scribing, scribing, scribing. Ira is picking a fight with Tyler; get a room, you two.

The shop, of course, was pretty quiet so whenever anybody came in, we said howdy and gave them a glass of something nice (usually the Cotes Sauvages), just for the sake of good cheer. One woman was very appreciative: this was her fourth stop today and all the others had been closed without notice.

Bacchus was quite mercurial, as you'll see, but we drank very well:

Pepiere 2002 Muscadet "Cuvee Eden" - foully corked

Closel 1998 Savennieres "Clos du Papillon" - dry, orange and marzipan and did I say dry yet?, later there's more flowers and some tin can (in a nice way); I like this wine

Barraud 2014 Pouilly-Fuisse "sur la roche" - a bit of butter blows off, yup that's chardonnay

Taittinger 2004 Champagne Brut, Blanc de Blancs, "Comtes de Champagne" - chalky, pure, delightful, but needed some time to get there

Alzinger 2001 Loibner Steinertal Gruner Veltliner Smaragd - just-so corked

Claire Naudin 2016 VdF "Le Clou 34" - aligote (in a nice way), pretty, chalky, a slight lemony aroma, nice at the table

Edmunds St John 1995 "Les Cotes Sauvages" - cinnamon, a hint of orange oil, spice and dark raspberry, slightly jammy but a wow wine

Cafaro 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon - heat damaged

Breton 2004 Bourgueil "Les Perrieres" - gorgeous, minerally nose reveals a little green pepper but the mouth has delicate texture and full-flavor, drink now!

Huet 2008 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Le Mont" - also pretty, I can't add anything to Jayson's recent note

Allemand 2004 Cornas "Chaillot" - meaty, vinous, orange peel with some pith too, beautiful, medium-heavy weight but the texture is so silky you can hardly tell

Luigi Baudana 2013 Barolo - a little lactic blows off, shows more and more typicity with air, graphite and quinine in the nose, sturdy acidity of course, I like this a lot

Pierre Moncuit NV Champagne Brut GC, Blanc de Blancs - disg. 7/17, a very forward autolytic nose but the palate is wan

Fontodi 1995 Chianti Classico Riserva "Vigna del Sorbo" - very quiet even after hours of waiting, something wrong?

Breton 1999 Bourgueil "Les Perrieres" - definitely the sib of the '04, a little further down the road towards sous-bois and milder acidity, still yum

Seehof 2017 Pinot Noir Trocken Rose - the note says "nice enough", sorry

Honestly, I don't remember too much about getting home. But I did. Rah.
 
Naudin with or without sulfur? Seems like they produce each wine in both versions.

04 Cabs are nuts. Don't have Perrieres but haven't been able to keep my hands off the others for years. I rigged the scores on 2005s so that plenty of 04s would be available for second (and third) helpings.
 
The Allemand was magnificent, the Comtes was gorgeous and the Huet was just beautiful.

I don't know what was up with the Fontodi. Really, really low levels of TCA? Slight heat damage? Whatever it was this bottle showed almost nothing. Shut down?
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Closel 1998 Savennieres "Clos du Papillon" - dry, orange and marzipan and did I say dry yet?, later there's more flowers and some tin can (in a nice way); I like this wine

Must have been teetering right on the edge with that tin can note. That very quickly gets offensive in my experience. But these Savennieres wines are so temperamental, nice that you had a good experience.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Closel 1998 Savennieres "Clos du Papillon" - dry, orange and marzipan and did I say dry yet?, later there's more flowers and some tin can (in a nice way); I like this wine

Must have been teetering right on the edge with that tin can note. That very quickly gets offensive in my experience. But these Savennieres wines are so temperamental, nice that you had a good experience.

Many of us probably stopping buying and drinking Savennières a while ago. The "Clos du Papillon" was never my favorite wine from Closel: I always found it unbalanced. In fact, in many vintages, IMHO, all their cuvées had too much alcohol.

In June of this year, Biodyvin, an alternative to Demeter for Biodynamic growers (though some members are Demeter certified, too) came to Oslo for a large trade tasting. It was lovely to see Evelyne de Pontbriand behind a table pouring her wines as I had enjoyed several visits to the estate and had the opportunity to taste the new wines. Though still big boned, there is a significant shift to much greater balance; we both agreed that the wines had improved quite a bit.
 
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Closel 1998 Savennieres "Clos du Papillon" - dry, orange and marzipan and did I say dry yet?, later there's more flowers and some tin can (in a nice way); I like this wine

Must have been teetering right on the edge with that tin can note. That very quickly gets offensive in my experience. But these Savennieres wines are so temperamental, nice that you had a good experience.

Many of us probably stopping buying and drinking Savennières a while ago. The "Clos du Papillon" was never my favorite wine from Closel: I always found it unbalanced. In fact, in many vintages, IMHO, all their cuvées had too much alcohol.

In June of this year, Biodyvin, an alternative to Demeter for Biodynamic growers (though some members are Demeter certified, too) came to Oslo for a large trade tasting. It was lovely to see Evelyne de Pontbriand behind a table pouring her wines as I had enjoyed several visits to the estate and had the opportunity to taste the new wines. Though still big boned, there is a significant shift to much greater balance; we both agreed that the wines had improved quite a bit.

GTK, as I've been eying a small lot of 2015 La Jalousie available around here at a decent price.
 
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Closel 1998 Savennieres "Clos du Papillon" - dry, orange and marzipan and did I say dry yet?, later there's more flowers and some tin can (in a nice way); I like this wine

Must have been teetering right on the edge with that tin can note. That very quickly gets offensive in my experience. But these Savennieres wines are so temperamental, nice that you had a good experience.

Many of us probably stopping buying and drinking Savennières a while ago. The "Clos du Papillon" was never my favorite wine from Closel: I always found it unbalanced. In fact, in many vintages, IMHO, all their cuvées had too much alcohol.

In June of this year, Biodyvin, an alternative to Demeter for Biodynamic growers (though some members are Demeter certified, too) came to Oslo for a large trade tasting. It was lovely to see Evelyne de Pontbriand behind a table pouring her wines as I had enjoyed several visits to the estate and had the opportunity to taste the new wines. Though still big boned, there is a significant shift to much greater balance; we both agreed that the wines had improved quite a bit.

GTK, as I've been eying a small lot of 2015 La Jalousie available around here at a decent price.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Closel 1998 Savennieres "Clos du Papillon" - dry, orange and marzipan and did I say dry yet?, later there's more flowers and some tin can (in a nice way); I like this wine

Must have been teetering right on the edge with that tin can note. That very quickly gets offensive in my experience. But these Savennieres wines are so temperamental, nice that you had a good experience.

Many of us probably stopping buying and drinking Savennières a while ago. The "Clos du Papillon" was never my favorite wine from Closel: I always found it unbalanced. In fact, in many vintages, IMHO, all their cuvées had too much alcohol.

In June of this year, Biodyvin, an alternative to Demeter for Biodynamic growers (though some members are Demeter certified, too) came to Oslo for a large trade tasting. It was lovely to see Evelyne de Pontbriand behind a table pouring her wines as I had enjoyed several visits to the estate and had the opportunity to taste the new wines. Though still big boned, there is a significant shift to much greater balance; we both agreed that the wines had improved quite a bit.

GTK, as I've been eying a small lot of 2015 La Jalousie available around here at a decent price.

The 2015 is 13.5%, which is a full point of alcohol past the ABV at which I will buy wine. You can definitely feel the heat in that.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Thanks. 13,5% is my upper limit, these days, but I prefer to stay below.

politburo will always have its hardliners

I prefer to think of myself as a softliner, except when it comes to oak.

Uh, you're also a bit of a hardliner about sulfur IIRC, O.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Thanks. 13,5% is my upper limit, these days, but I prefer to stay below.

Ok. Maybe I lied a bit. 13% for Nebbiolo, Barolo, Alto Piemonte and Valtellina.
 
originally posted by MLipton:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Thanks. 13,5% is my upper limit, these days, but I prefer to stay below.

politburo will always have its hardliners

I prefer to think of myself as a softliner, except when it comes to oak.

Uh, you're also a bit of a hardliner about sulfur IIRC, O.

Mark Lipton

Not as much as Dressner.
 
originally posted by mark e:


The 2015 is 13.5%, which is a full point of alcohol past the ABV at which I will buy wine. You can definitely feel the heat in that.

I’m curious Mark, do you buy Barolo? I think most are much higher abv these days.
Maybe just the older vintages?
 
originally posted by Marc D:
originally posted by mark e:


The 2015 is 13.5%, which is a full point of alcohol past the ABV at which I will buy wine. You can definitely feel the heat in that.

I’m curious Mark, do you buy Barolo? I think most are much higher abv these days.
Maybe just the older vintages?

Funny, I posted about that while you were writing your post.
 
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