Impressions August 2018

[VLM]

1999 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux
Unfortunately, this is still pretty tight. Has real depth to it, but still needs more time.
2011 Emmanuel Houillon (Maison Pierre Overnoy) Savagnin Arbois Pupillin
In a great spot and exactly how you’d expect it to be. Outshone by a Ganevat that I can’t remember the name of on the evening, but on almost any other evening, it would be a centerpiece and a star.
2012 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Greffieux-Bessards
Really pretty on the nose and elegant on the palate. While this will certainly improve and come into greater harmony, it was really delicious on the night. Decanted for an hour prior to drinking, I would also recommend lamb which paired very well. This is my current Northern Rhône crush.
2016 Ferme de la Sansonnière (Mark Angeli) La Lune
Delicious. Open and friendly. I’m so happy with my re-acquaintance with these wines.
2014 Georges Descombes Morgon Vieilles Vignes
This is already starting to drink well with a bit of air but 2-3 more years in the cellar would be better.
2012 Georges Descombes Morgon Vieilles Vignes
This was always a more angular and difficult wine than the surrounding vintages, but it has rounded into a nice spot. My last bottle isn’t long for this world.
2009 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux
Interestingly, this isn’t as open as the Croix Boissée I had recently. Real depth and definitely that Grézeaux-ness. Such a distinctive wine. Note that there was quite a bit of sediment in the bottle and I would recommend decanting.
2008 Domaine Pavelot Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode
Pretty berry and brambles on the nose. Still a bit tight, but getting there. With roast chicken the structure cut through the fat. I think another couple of years and it’ll be in a good spot.
2014 Ghostwriter Syrah Santa Cruz Mountains
Delicious. Full fruited and savory but wrapped in a svelte package. To think that this wine was an afterthought. If the fruit is available, Kenny should make this every year.
2016 Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny Les Mémoires
I have no memory of this wine.
2005 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive
Unfortunately, it looks as if the tannin may have caught up and passed the remaining fruit.
2005 Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Javernières
Has held up better than the Coudert. Some bottle sweetness completes a sous bois and dried red fruit compote with a bit of tannin to frame it.
1999 Louis Jadot Corton-Pougets Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot
Silky texture and polished fruit that you’d expect from the house style. Spice, earth and leather undernotes that I associate with many Corton. Not at peak, but it is certainly enjoyable now, at least for me. I’m probably underselling this wine, which I like very much.
2014 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin
Nope, way too young to really enjoy, even with food. Very classically Gevrey with some chewiness to the fruit that suggests old vines. Give it 5-7 years.
2012 Domaine Rollin Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses
Continuing the theme, this is too young. Not shrill, but all sharp elbows. There is fruit here, but it needs to sleep for a few more years.
2015 Ceritas Chardonnay Heintz Vineyard
Dense, mineral and a bit exotic. Has an apricot type fruit along with all of the yellow fruits and flowers. Ceritas is producing great wines.

Also, we enjoyed great bottles of 2017 Sperino Rosa del Rosa which is our favorite rosé again this year, I think. One of our go to rieslings, 2016 Weiser-Künstler Riesling, has been a regular companion. This is a delicious version. More bottles of 2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition which are uniformly delicious, but I’ve socked enough away that I might actually let some age. Same for the 2014. We also depleted the last of our stock of 2016 Monteraponi Chianti Classico but I’ll be reloading to have this around. Definitely worth checking out if you haven’t already.

 

[Rahsaan]

originally posted by VLM:

2012 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Greffieux-Bessards
This is my current Northern Rhône crush.

You say that as if it wouldn't be everyone else's crush too!

Pierre-Alain (PAB -RIP) was the one who really turned me onto these wines, and for my palate they were just about perfect Hermitage (admittedly my exposure to Chave Hermitage is minuscule).

But I don't think I've ever seen them in the US. I've seen them at very fair prices in France, but I rarely purchased because of the need for age. So glad to hear your 2012 is rocking and rolling.

 

[MarkS]

originally posted by VLM:
...2016 Monteraponi Chianti Classico but I’ll be reloading to have this around. Definitely worth checking out if you haven’t already.

Just opened the 15 of this this week and I'll be looking for more. Good non-gussied Chianti.

 

[Cole Kendall]

originally posted by Rahsaan:

originally posted by VLM:

2012 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Greffieux-Bessards
This is my current Northern Rhône crush.

You say that as if it wouldn't be everyone else's crush too!

Pierre-Alain (PAB -RIP) was the one who really turned me onto these wines, and for my palate they were just about perfect Hermitage (admittedly my exposure to Chave Hermitage is minuscule).

But I don't think I've ever seen them in the US. I've seen them at very fair prices in France, but I rarely purchased because of the need for age. So glad to hear your 2012 is rocking and rolling.

I had more than my share of Faurie at the TGJP.

 

[BJ]

Way to go not drinking too much in August!

 

[Pavel Tchichikov]

Very cool selection.

originally posted by VLM:
Impressions August 20181999 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux
Unfortunately, this is still pretty tight. Has real depth to it, but still needs more time.

the new york hebraic tippling association (copyright ccoad, all rights reserved) issued an executive decision a couple of years back to leave 99 GCs and higher end 1er alone for a while, almost uniformly. Likely to dive into village wines, as a group, sometime in 2019.

2012 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Greffieux-Bessards
Really pretty on the nose and elegant on the palate. While this will certainly improve and come into greater harmony, it was really delicious on the night. Decanted for an hour prior to drinking, I would also recommend lamb which paired very well. This is my current Northern Rhône crush.

2012 in northern rhone allows to see the difference between good winemakers and points-seeking idiots from a mile away

2009 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux
Interestingly, this isn’t as open as the Croix Boissée I had recently. Real depth and definitely that Grézeaux-ness. Such a distinctive wine. Note that there was quite a bit of sediment in the bottle and I would recommend decanting.

Clos Guillot last night. My favorite from them in 2009, and one of my wines of the vintage in France. The only question, from the start, was when to drink this. As suspected, this will probably show well at any point throughout its life, but has plenty of (nicely integrated) tannin to resolve, so no rush. Performed admirably with lamb chops and spinach timbale, a place where graves or northern rhone is typically served here.

2005 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive
Unfortunately, it looks as if the tannin may have caught up and passed the remaining fruit.

this is beyond the scope of electronic communications. TBD.

2012 Domaine Rollin Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses
Continuing the theme, this is too young. Not shrill, but all sharp elbows. There is fruit here, but it needs to sleep for a few more years.

oddly (or not) i've discovered that it is the village P-V rather than the HCDB that's more likely to give pleasure when popped at the wrong time. HCDB and the 1er have been known to understate fruit on occasion, obviously for different reasons. And of course, as we discussed a couple of months back, "wrong time" for Rollin is a relative concept.

2016 Monteraponi Chianti Classico but I’ll be reloading to have this around. Definitely worth checking out if you haven’t already.

that is a most useful recommendation, will try to follow up; dish-pairing failures cured by a good CC are rare around here, but memorable.

 

[Jayson Cohen]

originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:

originally posted by VLM:
Impressions August 20181999 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux
Unfortunately, this is still pretty tight. Has real depth to it, but still needs more time.

the new york hebraic tippling association (copyright ccoad, all rights reserved) issued an executive decision a couple of years back to leave 99 GCs and higher end 1er alone for a while, almost uniformly. Likely to dive into village wines, as a group, sometime in 2019.

I am a member of the association, and I endorse this message.

 

[Jayson Cohen]

originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:

2005 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive
Unfortunately, it looks as if the tannin may have caught up and passed the remaining fruit.

this is beyond the scope of electronic communications. TBD.

If you have the means, I have the will. I also have its little brother for a side-by-side comparison.

 

[Michael Lewis]

originally posted by Jayson Cohen:

originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:

originally posted by VLM:
Impressions August 20181999 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux
Unfortunately, this is still pretty tight. Has real depth to it, but still needs more time.

the new york hebraic tippling association (copyright ccoad, all rights reserved) issued an executive decision a couple of years back to leave 99 GCs and higher end 1er alone for a while, almost uniformly. Likely to dive into village wines, as a group, sometime in 2019.

I am a member of the association, and I endorse this message.

What VLM left out is that we also drank a 1999 Bachelet Charmes Chambertin at the same time - theoretically an even worse offense. However, the Bachelet actually gave more than the M-G did on the evening.

VLM, the Ganevat you can't remember was the 2011 Les Chalasses Marnes Bleues Savagnin (which is topped up). Thanks for making the trip.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by Michael Lewis:

originally posted by Jayson Cohen:

originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:

originally posted by VLM:
Impressions August 20181999 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux
Unfortunately, this is still pretty tight. Has real depth to it, but still needs more time.

the new york hebraic tippling association (copyright ccoad, all rights reserved) issued an executive decision a couple of years back to leave 99 GCs and higher end 1er alone for a while, almost uniformly. Likely to dive into village wines, as a group, sometime in 2019.

I am a member of the association, and I endorse this message.

What VLM left out is that we also drank a 1999 Bachelet Charmes Chambertin at the same time - theoretically an even worse offense. However, the Bachelet actually gave more than the M-G did on the evening.

VLM, the Ganevat you can't remember was the 2011 Les Chalasses Marnes Bleues Savagnin (which is topped up). Thanks for making the trip.

I should note that these notes are based upon CellarTracker consumes bottles, so many lovely wines, such as that Bachelet Charmes (which as Michael alludes, was showing beautifully and quite resolved) do not make it into my notes. That Ganevat was the best bottle of his wines that I've had. Really fantastic. Great wine night.

Who am I to argue with Hebrews, and New Yorkers at that?

 

[VLM]

originally posted by Rahsaan:

originally posted by VLM:

2012 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Greffieux-Bessards
This is my current Northern Rhône crush.

You say that as if it wouldn't be everyone else's crush too!

Pierre-Alain (PAB -RIP) was the one who really turned me onto these wines, and for my palate they were just about perfect Hermitage (admittedly my exposure to Chave Hermitage is minuscule).

But I don't think I've ever seen them in the US. I've seen them at very fair prices in France, but I rarely purchased because of the need for age. So glad to hear your 2012 is rocking and rolling.

I got turned on to this years ago when Chadderdon was the importer (now Kermit) and also by friends that bought it at the Ampuis Marché. There may be as many as three bottlings, a white capsule (this one) a gold capsule (Bessards-Le Méal) and a red capsule which is a blend for the French market. The 2012 is on the young side, but was a real pleasure. I am hesitant to loudly proclaim my love of this wine for fear of the market finding and destroying my buying opportunity.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by MarkS:

originally posted by VLM:
...2016 Monteraponi Chianti Classico but I’ll be reloading to have this around. Definitely worth checking out if you haven’t already.

Just opened the 15 of this this week and I'll be looking for more. Good non-gussied Chianti.

Yeah, really awesome earth, mineral, leather streak under the dark fruit. Maybe some bitter cocoa in there as well. Excellent structure. Glad you like it.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by Jayson Cohen:

originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:

2005 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive
Unfortunately, it looks as if the tannin may have caught up and passed the remaining fruit.

this is beyond the scope of electronic communications. TBD.

If you have the means, I have the will. I also have its little brother for a side-by-side comparison.

I'd be curious to hear others thoughts on this. My bottles crossed the ocean via reefer and went immediately into my cellar.

 

[Jayson Cohen]

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by Michael Lewis:

originally posted by Jayson Cohen:

originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:

originally posted by VLM:
Impressions August 20181999 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux
Unfortunately, this is still pretty tight. Has real depth to it, but still needs more time.

the new york hebraic tippling association (copyright ccoad, all rights reserved) issued an executive decision a couple of years back to leave 99 GCs and higher end 1er alone for a while, almost uniformly. Likely to dive into village wines, as a group, sometime in 2019.

I am a member of the association, and I endorse this message.

What VLM left out is that we also drank a 1999 Bachelet Charmes Chambertin at the same time - theoretically an even worse offense. However, the Bachelet actually gave more than the M-G did on the evening.

VLM, the Ganevat you can't remember was the 2011 Les Chalasses Marnes Bleues Savagnin (which is topped up). Thanks for making the trip.

I should note that these notes are based upon CellarTracker consumes bottles, so many lovely wines, such as that Bachelet Charmes (which as Michael alludes, was showing beautifully and quite resolved) do not make it into my notes. That Ganevat was the best bottle of his wines that I've had. Really fantastic. Great wine night.

Who am I to argue with Hebrews, and New Yorkers at that?

I would be happy to have you travel to NY to open your 1999 GCs for the association, as long as we invite any non-members of the association who are members of the JCWC in absentia, all 2 of them.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
Very cool selection.

originally posted by VLM:
Impressions August 20181999 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux
Unfortunately, this is still pretty tight. Has real depth to it, but still needs more time.

the new york hebraic tippling association (copyright ccoad, all rights reserved) issued an executive decision a couple of years back to leave 99 GCs and higher end 1er alone for a while, almost uniformly. Likely to dive into village wines, as a group, sometime in 2019.

As I said, far be it from me to argue with the NY hebrews, but I've had a decent number of 1999s that are more than pleasant, including a beautiful Mugnier Fuées that will be included in the September version of these impressions. I think it is a wine by wine thing at this point. Given the usual generosity of M-G, I was surprised at how hard this was.

Michael, did we ever wonder if it was mildly corked or am I conflating that with something else?

2012 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Greffieux-Bessards
Really pretty on the nose and elegant on the palate. While this will certainly improve and come into greater harmony, it was really delicious on the night. Decanted for an hour prior to drinking, I would also recommend lamb which paired very well. This is my current Northern Rhône crush.

2012 in northern rhone allows to see the difference between good winemakers and points-seeking idiots from a mile away

I wouldn't really know, the only 2012s I have are from Eric and Faurie.

2009 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux
Interestingly, this isn’t as open as the Croix Boissée I had recently. Real depth and definitely that Grézeaux-ness. Such a distinctive wine. Note that there was quite a bit of sediment in the bottle and I would recommend decanting.

Clos Guillot last night. My favorite from them in 2009, and one of my wines of the vintage in France. The only question, from the start, was when to drink this. As suspected, this will probably show well at any point throughout its life, but has plenty of (nicely integrated) tannin to resolve, so no rush. Performed admirably with lamb chops and spinach timbale, a place where graves or northern rhone is typically served here.

I had a Clos Guillot in June that I remember fondly, but the Croix Boissée has made the biggest impression of my summer forays into 2009 Baudry.

2005 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive
Unfortunately, it looks as if the tannin may have caught up and passed the remaining fruit.

this is beyond the scope of electronic communications. TBD.

Please do make an attempt to sort this out.

2012 Domaine Rollin Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses
Continuing the theme, this is too young. Not shrill, but all sharp elbows. There is fruit here, but it needs to sleep for a few more years.

oddly (or not) i've discovered that it is the village P-V rather than the HCDB that's more likely to give pleasure when popped at the wrong time. HCDB and the 1er have been known to understate fruit on occasion, obviously for different reasons. And of course, as we discussed a couple of months back, "wrong time" for Rollin is a relative concept.

I prefer them when the fruit has started to break out. It gets so sappy, focused and long. Like white wine with red fruit.

2016 Monteraponi Chianti Classico but I’ll be reloading to have this around. Definitely worth checking out if you haven’t already.

that is a most useful recommendation, will try to follow up; dish-pairing failures cured by a good CC are rare around here, but memorable.

I find CC of this type to be a very useful wine for pairing with dishes when I either don't know what to do or don't want to try that hard.

 

[Pavel Tchichikov]

originally posted by Michael Lewis:
What VLM left out is that we also drank a 1999 Bachelet Charmes Chambertin

You, Sarkozy, and Putin.

 

[Pavel Tchichikov]

Makes total sense that Mugnier Fuées is good now.

 

[Ben Hunting]

originally posted by VLM:
There may be as many as three bottlings, a white capsule (this one) a gold capsule (Bessards-Le Méal) and a red capsule which is a blend for the French market.

The Faurie Greffieux-Méal-Bessards blend is also found in the British market, JLL referring to it as the British cuvée. He lists an all Méal cuvée, and an all Bessards cuvée (first produced in 2015, with a red capsule) as well on drinkrhone.

 

[Michael Lewis]

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
Very cool selection.

originally posted by VLM:
Impressions August 20181999 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux
Unfortunately, this is still pretty tight. Has real depth to it, but still needs more time.

the new york hebraic tippling association (copyright ccoad, all rights reserved) issued an executive decision a couple of years back to leave 99 GCs and higher end 1er alone for a while, almost uniformly. Likely to dive into village wines, as a group, sometime in 2019.

As I said, far be it from me to argue with the NY hebrews, but I've had a decent number of 1999s that are more than pleasant, including a beautiful Mugnier Fuées that will be included in the September version of these impressions. I think it is a wine by wine thing at this point. Given the usual generosity of M-G, I was surprised at how hard this was.

Michael, did we ever wonder if it was mildly corked or am I conflating that with something else?

We did wonder about that, several times, but we both eventually agreed that it was not corked.

 

[Michael Lewis]

originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:

originally posted by Michael Lewis:
What VLM left out is that we also drank a 1999 Bachelet Charmes Chambertin

You, Sarkozy, and Putin.

Only way to ensure you do not get poisoned is to drink what they're drinking.