5 Burgundies w/dinner (menu)

P

Peter Creasey

Peter Creasey
MENU:

chevccmu.jpg
. . . . Pete
 
The wines seem like a discriminate oak-fest, but I must admit to being intrigued by the quirkiness of Thon façon "Rubik's Cube." Google was no help.
 
Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc '15 -- Right on...just what you would expect from Leflaive at this level. Delicious and satisfying. [VG]

Louis Jadot Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru '07 En Magnum -- A bit atypical in my view. Did I enjoy it?...yes, I did. Full and round without the "grip" I typically like with Meursaults, good personality, some nuttiness, elegant. Not a hint of premox. [E]

Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru '07 En Magnum -- A beautiful and delicious 10+ year old trophy, full, layered, nice complexity, medium density, all the right elements for a Corton-Charlemagne, a big hit with everyone. Again, no premox in evidence. [E]

Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru '05 -- Voluptuous nose, dark profile/style, black fruits, lots of power, no delicacy here (but that's all right), well structured, ample charm, needs time. [E]

Alain Hudelot-Noellat Richebourg Grand Cru '05 -- Another youthful '05, gorgeous bouquet, exquisitely refined in every respect, good core of dark berry fruits, slight hint of wood, wonderful aromas and on the palate, a real treat now but will only improve. [E+]

All the foregoing to the best of my recollection!

. . . . Pete
 
The Jadot and Boillot wines would be prime premox candidates but presumably are protected by being in magnum. I haven't had a premoxed magnum but then again I don't drink that many magnums of white.
 
originally posted by Tom Blach:
The Jadot and Boillot wines would be prime premox candidates but presumably are protected by being in magnum. I haven't had a premoxed magnum but then again I don't drink that many magnums of white.
Click to expand...
Why would bottling in magnum protect against premox? The ratio of oxygen to wine is roughly cut in half, but on the other hand the magnums may be bottled by hand or with less precise machinery, potentially starting their lives with more oxygen exposure.

Also, I'm under the impression that a number of the premox theories relate to vinification, not handling of the finished wine. If true, assuming that the wine in the magnum is from the same cuvee as the regular bottling, any premox would affect the magnum equally.
 
Christian, given his and my longtime interaction with each other on wine boards, I know Tom is quite knowledgeable and experienced about Burgundies; even so, I have the same question that you express. Hopefully, someone will elucidate.

. . . . Pete
 
originally posted by Peter Creasey:

Christian, given his and my longtime interaction with each other on wine boards, I know Tom is quite knowledgeable and experienced about Burgundies; even so, I have the same question that you express. Hopefully, someone will elucidate.
. . . . Pete
Click to expand...

The whole topic is still a puzzle to me, so I'm hoping Tom and others will weigh in here.
 
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):
Also, I'm under the impression that a number of the premox theories relate to vinification
Click to expand...

CMM, I would by no means rule that out as one of the factors, but keep in mind that premox is notoriously random - within the sample space of a solid case purchased on release and stored consistently. A friend opened a full case of a significant 1er cru white burg 3 years ago at his wedding; this case was picked up at the Domaine and driven straight to his 9c cellar 2 years and 3 months following the harvest. I made a point of tasting from all the bottles at the wedding, as I was playing sommelier; the variation was stunning, as were the top 3-4 bottles from the case. Even more frustrating was the realization that you had to be really really intimately familiar with the wine to declare the bottles that I'd rank 5-8 to be "off" in any way, should you find yourself drinking one of those bottles entirely on its own.
 
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):
Also, I'm under the impression that a number of the premox theories relate to vinification
Click to expand...

CMM, I would by no means rule that out as one of the factors, but keep in mind that premox is notoriously random - within the sample space of a solid case purchased on release and stored consistently. A friend opened a full case of a significant 1er cru white burg 3 years ago at his wedding; this case was picked up at the Domaine and driven straight to his 9c cellar 2 years and 3 months following the harvest. I made a point of tasting from all the bottles at the wedding, as I was playing sommelier; the variation was stunning, as were the top 3-4 bottles from the case. Even more frustrating was the realization that you had to be really really intimately familiar with the wine to declare the bottles that I'd rank 5-8 to be "off" in any way, should you find yourself drinking one of those bottles entirely on its own.
Click to expand...

Yikes!
"...you had to be really really intimately familiar with the wine to declare the bottles that I'd rank 5-8 to be "off" in any way..." Could be bad news or good news, depending on how they tasted. But I imagine bottles 9-12 to be completely unacceptable in a wine of this pedigree and (especially) price.
 
I don't know any scientific reason why magnums seem not to oxidise before one would expect it, it's just a matter of observation and very possibly luck.
 
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):
Yikes!
"...you had to be really really intimately familiar with the wine to declare the bottles that I'd rank 5-8 to be "off" in any way..." Could be bad news or good news, depending on how they tasted.
Click to expand...

Indeed, but bad news in this case. It isn't that bottles 1-4 just showed better; they were superior on account of length, grip, density, concentration, resilience.

But I imagine bottles 9-12 to be completely unacceptable in a wine of this pedigree and (especially) price.
Click to expand...

There were no horrible bottles there; the weakest were nice wines but (a) as you say unacceptable given the pedigree and (b) would have been horrible if the event were to take place 5-7 years later.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top