The weather has finally shifted here sending shivers and spines and tailgating finds:
François Villard, Condrieu, De Poncins', 2012
Somewhat diffuse and mute nose upon opening (which is Not what you want from viognier!). Has the tell-tale exoticness of viognier, with ripe pear, lychee, marzipan, and a lush perfumed dimension, but falls a little flat...perhaps it is simply old? Perhaps I missed the window, merely 'good', fortunately avoids the grape's tendency to alcoholic heat. 13.5% B+
Ganevat, Cotes du Jura, Poulsard, 'cuvee de l'enfant terrible', 2011
Yummy on the first night: watermelon-strawberry-cucumber-lemon mist lemonade, slightly effervescent, and a little swampy. Color like a deeper rose. A-
2nd day: the wine has transformed into undrinkable swill, unless you like acidic battery acid. Where is a ripe California cabernet to mix this with? Surprised to see such night-and-day (literally) difference. Unrated.
Muga, Rioja, Prado Enea, 'Gran Reserva', 2005
Rather dark colored. Ox blood and soy notes, crimson fruited and wooden oak along with black cherry and nascent leather. Has an austerity on the finish which belies the opulence of the flavors. Needs more time to coalesce. 13.5% B+/A-?
Costanti, Rosso di Montalcino, 2013
Quite dense for a Rosso, but the middle feels hollow. There is some nice black cherry in there, but I feel the wood and the heat on the backside and I am not impressed as in other years. At mid-30's pricing, the value seems lost. 14% B+
Samuel Tinon, Tokaji, 'Szamorodni', 2007
Richly amber colored. Citrus and spice elements and heavy botrytis, but not very concentrated. 12.8% A '93' in Ah-so's book.
Vincent Dancer, Chassagne Montrachet, 'La Romanee', 2007
Light pale gold color. Slightly buttered lemon chiffon on the nose and palate, exceedingly balanced with a calcium finish. Medium-to-lighter in weight and elegantly rendered. My kind of white Burgundy. On the second day, it shows a little herbal touch, perhaps marjoram or thyme. Singing at 11 years. 13.5% A-/A
Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo, Ghemme, 'Collis Carellae', 2008
Has a soft, maturing feel, well-textured and delicious, but perhaps better the first night. B+/A- 13.5%
Rhys, Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, 'Bearwallow Vineyard', 2013
Sweet fruit of brambleberry, cherry and blackcurrant, with a light wood kiss on the finish, along with a little clove. Probably the most complete Bearwallow I've had yet. A-
Chateau Thébaud, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, 'Clos des Moraines', 2009
Quite broad in the mouth but retains enough acidity to keep the lime blossom and lemongrass flavors lively. Could go further, but why? Drink while watching the container ships crossing the cold, blue Atlantic. A-/B+
Rhys, Pinot Noir, San Mateo County, 'Family Farm Vineyard', 2008
Lightening color. Strawberry and spices on the nose. Tart cherry and rhubarb on the palate, with wood spice on the end, and drying stems on the finish. A bit simple, but pretty and pure. After a while, neapolitan swirl: strawberry, vanilla and carob. Doesn't have the typical gloss that Rhys wines have, but surely has the stems! B+/A-
Zidarich, Venezia Giulia IGT, Vitovska, 2011
Cloudy yellow. Ginger and yellow fruited nose. Rhubarb with yellow plumskin-greengage plums. Bitterness on the finish. A bit simple, but feels 'authentic' and one could imagine drinking this on a farmer's bench in spring. 12%
François Villard, Condrieu, De Poncins', 2012
Somewhat diffuse and mute nose upon opening (which is Not what you want from viognier!). Has the tell-tale exoticness of viognier, with ripe pear, lychee, marzipan, and a lush perfumed dimension, but falls a little flat...perhaps it is simply old? Perhaps I missed the window, merely 'good', fortunately avoids the grape's tendency to alcoholic heat. 13.5% B+
Ganevat, Cotes du Jura, Poulsard, 'cuvee de l'enfant terrible', 2011
Yummy on the first night: watermelon-strawberry-cucumber-lemon mist lemonade, slightly effervescent, and a little swampy. Color like a deeper rose. A-
2nd day: the wine has transformed into undrinkable swill, unless you like acidic battery acid. Where is a ripe California cabernet to mix this with? Surprised to see such night-and-day (literally) difference. Unrated.
Muga, Rioja, Prado Enea, 'Gran Reserva', 2005
Rather dark colored. Ox blood and soy notes, crimson fruited and wooden oak along with black cherry and nascent leather. Has an austerity on the finish which belies the opulence of the flavors. Needs more time to coalesce. 13.5% B+/A-?
Costanti, Rosso di Montalcino, 2013
Quite dense for a Rosso, but the middle feels hollow. There is some nice black cherry in there, but I feel the wood and the heat on the backside and I am not impressed as in other years. At mid-30's pricing, the value seems lost. 14% B+
Samuel Tinon, Tokaji, 'Szamorodni', 2007
Richly amber colored. Citrus and spice elements and heavy botrytis, but not very concentrated. 12.8% A '93' in Ah-so's book.
Vincent Dancer, Chassagne Montrachet, 'La Romanee', 2007
Light pale gold color. Slightly buttered lemon chiffon on the nose and palate, exceedingly balanced with a calcium finish. Medium-to-lighter in weight and elegantly rendered. My kind of white Burgundy. On the second day, it shows a little herbal touch, perhaps marjoram or thyme. Singing at 11 years. 13.5% A-/A
Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo, Ghemme, 'Collis Carellae', 2008
Has a soft, maturing feel, well-textured and delicious, but perhaps better the first night. B+/A- 13.5%
Rhys, Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, 'Bearwallow Vineyard', 2013
Sweet fruit of brambleberry, cherry and blackcurrant, with a light wood kiss on the finish, along with a little clove. Probably the most complete Bearwallow I've had yet. A-
Chateau Thébaud, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, 'Clos des Moraines', 2009
Quite broad in the mouth but retains enough acidity to keep the lime blossom and lemongrass flavors lively. Could go further, but why? Drink while watching the container ships crossing the cold, blue Atlantic. A-/B+
Rhys, Pinot Noir, San Mateo County, 'Family Farm Vineyard', 2008
Lightening color. Strawberry and spices on the nose. Tart cherry and rhubarb on the palate, with wood spice on the end, and drying stems on the finish. A bit simple, but pretty and pure. After a while, neapolitan swirl: strawberry, vanilla and carob. Doesn't have the typical gloss that Rhys wines have, but surely has the stems! B+/A-
Zidarich, Venezia Giulia IGT, Vitovska, 2011
Cloudy yellow. Ginger and yellow fruited nose. Rhubarb with yellow plumskin-greengage plums. Bitterness on the finish. A bit simple, but feels 'authentic' and one could imagine drinking this on a farmer's bench in spring. 12%
