Five Burgundies w/dinner (menu)

Peter Creasey

Peter Creasey
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. . . . . Pete
 
Keith, it was very interesting both then and since.

The Bouchard Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru '07 had issues. My group got lucky and got a superb pour. It was really, really excellent. However, my friend the wine steward told me he had to reject several bottles for premox. Even so, several slightly premoxed bottles slipped through and got negative reactions from the recipients of same. He brought me a glass from a rejected bottle as an example. It was noticeably darker than my glass and definitely had signs of oxidation in the nose and taste.

I told him that, yes, the wine had problems and he did right to hold it back. HOWEVER, I told him that if I had that bottle at home I would have found a way to still enjoy it. He asked if I wanted a rejected bottle to take home and I said "sure". So he brought me a doggy-bag bottle.

I brought it out tonight for JoAnne and me. Here's what was interesting. First small pour before dinner and, yes, there was evidence of oxidation in the nose and taste...acceptable but rather subpar. He called it right last night by rejecting it.

Amazingly, though, with dinner (shrimp tempura and brown rice, then light cheese and fruit) something happened: (i)the oxidation nuances somehow blew off; (ii) being served with food somehow offset the negatives; or (iii) having a few glasses of wine made my judgement less judgemental. Regardless, as I had predicted last night, the Chevalier discard ended up being a special treat tonight with no qualifiers. JoAnne told me I should asked for some of the other rejects. A predictably interesting experience actually became something rather special.

I expected the wine to be palatable tonight if not totally enjoyable. Instead it was special. I'm hard pressed to explain what happened but, obviously, I'm not complaining.

The Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes 1er Cru '07 En Magnum had no issues across the board. It was lovely.

. . . . . Pete
 
(iv) older wine is better with food, even if somewhat evolved for the wrong reasons

Curious if Diam was used for this wine. Fevre and Bouchard converted in the mid-2000s but not sure if and when the switch was made for the Grand Crus.
 
Pavel, I'm looking at the cork now. It is a conventional cork with Chevalier Montrachet 2007 long-ways on the side.

. . . . Pete
 
Fevre went Diam for GCs in 2010; for PC in 2007. If it was a Bouchard-wide switch, the inference would be it did roughly the same.
 
It is nice to see wines with some age on them in your latest notes... so many bourgognes crus etc are sold at restaurants with little time for them to blossom.
 
Karen, for probably ~10 years now our group has been making a concerted effort to replenish our inventory sufficiently so that wines can be cellared until they are nicely evolved. Definitely a rewarding strategy, albeit with a few disappointments along the line. The positives of this approach outweigh the occasional quasi-disappointments.

. . . . Pete
 
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