Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
Same venue, same procedures, different wines. (last year)
The short of it:
- I think more winemakers were present this time.
- Condrieu still generally made in a lighter style, or perhaps that's just the result of a less-overripe vintage.
- Lots of 2016 and 2015 syrah. Completely different styles... 2016 fairly classic while 2015 is plush and sweet. Back-vintage 2013 shows well.
Tables listed in the order they appear in the booklet. Wines are listed in the order tasted. Where both colors are available, the blanc will be noted. I've already converted my quickie-rating system into the range -3 to +3.
WINE TABLES
Dom. Andre Perret
While tasting here a group of women approached the table. One of them was wearing an entire bottle of perfume, or so it seemed. I recoiled from them, and therefore the table, until they left. Andre was watching this and I couldn't be certain whether he immediately grasped the situation so I silently mouthed 'trop de parfum!'
This was my only encounter with perfume today but it made me wonder what percentage of this crowd really isn't wine geeks or wine ITB. A number of people seemed over-dressed, and a number of people were quite rude about what they'd like poured now. Sigh.
2016 Condrieu "Chery" - [1], 50-80 yr vines, light- to medium-weight, hardly any floral smellies at all but the finish surges late
2016 Condrieu "Clos Chanson" - [1], 35 yr vines, nose much more forthcoming (and pretty), palate still quite light
2016 St-Joseph - [1], known as "Classique", textbook
2016 St-Joseph "Les Grisieres" - [3], old vines around Tournon, fine grippy tannins, cool blue fruit and earth, one of the best wines in the room
Dom. Clape
I mentioned to Olivier Clape that I still have '96 and '99 laying down. He said that 1996 was a bit of a tough year but that it is time to open it. Of the 1999 he said, "forget about it for another 10 years."
2016 Cornas "Renaissance" - [2], 12-30 yr vines, rings the old-school bell on the nose but the palate is lighter texture
2016 Cornas - [2], much fuller but still a bit more polite than I think Cornas should be
Dom. Graillot & Dom. des Lises
Antoine Graillot explains that Dom. des Lises is run by his brother, hence they show together.
Of the family domaine he says that they bought all their land at once and have never bought any since. The parcels are clustered all around the house hence they do not really have diversity of terroir; that is why "La Guirade" is a barrel selection. He also said that "La Guirade" is made only when the family likes some barrels more than others; if none speak to them, the cuvee is not made.
I asked what is "La Guirade". He said there was a Dom. La Guirade about 50 years ago, defunct now, but it was a place his father loved in his childhood so they've honored that memory.
2016 Dom. des Lises St-Joseph - [1], made from purchased grapes, very strawberry fruit, grippy, nice in its style
2016 Dom. des Lises Crozes-Hermitage - [2], estate fruit, very full and rich, I like this one
2015 Dom. Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage - [1.5], stern, dry, imposing
2015 Dom. Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage "La Guiraude" - [1.5], same but with extra warm, sweet fruit (which is interesting but doesn't make me like it more)
Dom. du Coulet
Matthieu Barret uses the same fancy plastic corks as Ponsot, but in black.
2016 Cornas "Brise Cailloux" - [1.5], lightweight, red-fruit, doesn't really ring my bell of what-is-Cornas
2013 Cornas "Billes Noires" - [2], made from a single site of higher altitude than the Brise, this has very good balance
Dom Vincent Paris
I asked Vincent Paris whether he could use a horse on the 60-degree slope. He said the horse goes up once and then refuses ever to go up again.
I also asked him if he had any serine in his holdings. He said there is no serine in Cornas (...which I have trouble believing).
2016 Cornas "Granit 30" - [1.5], the vines grown on a hillside with 30-degree slope, very red-fruit and sweet, nice enough
2016 Cornas "Granit 60" - [2.5], similar but a bit wilder, less sweet, a bit of roots and earth
2016 Cornas "La Geynale" - [3], whole cluster, wonderful
Franck Balthazar
2016 Cotes-du-Rhone - [1], yup, grenache/syrah
2016 Cornas "Sans Soufre" - [2], all from Legre vineyard, very fragrant, seems not a complete wine to me, especially compared to the Cuvee
2016 Cornas "Cuvee Casimir" - [2], Legre and Mazards, typique, a bit obviously clean
2016 Cornas "Chaillot" - [3], 107 yr vines, intense, rich, spicy, licorice, yum
Julien Cecillon
I asked Julien who is Marguerite. He said it is the name of his wife, her mother, and her aunt!
2017 St-Peray "Gemini" - [0], 90%-10% marsanne-roussanne
2017 St-Joseph Blanc "Victoria" - [0] 100% marsanne
2017 IGP Gamay "La Savane" - [1], 50% whole cluster, instantly recognizable as gamay, I thought it was good (but it got no love in a room full of syraholics)
2016 St-Joseph "Babylone" - [1.5], also from up north near Tournon/Muzelles, juicy and suave
2016 Crozes-Hermitage "Les Marguerites" - [2], just the right amount of grip, I'd like to have this at the table
2016 Crozes-Hermitage "Les Marguerites" - [3], my notes are confused: I show this wine a second time, hand-written, with a notation that the chosen vineyards are "Ermitagean" and that I liked this one better than the previous; maybe it's a different vintage?
"Frederic Wildman & Sons"
No two wines from the same vintage?
2014 Dom. Coursodon, St-Joseph "Le Paradis Saint-Pierre" - [1.5], good, foursquare, straight-ahead, older vines
2013 Vidal-Fleury, Cote-Rotie "Brune et Blonde" - [0.5]
2010 Vidal-Fleury, Cote-Rotie "Cote Blonde, Le Chatillonne" - [1], better acidity, a little woody but not too awful
2012 Dom. de Bonserine, Cote-Rotie "La Garde" - [0], owned by Guigal but run by a separate team, long maceration and long in small barrels, meh, the oak tannins are blocky and obtrusive
2011 Dom. Philippe et Vincent Jaboulet, Ermitage - [1], this is where the family went after they sold Jaboulet Aine, some delicacy in the mid-palate, maybe look-in from time to time
2016 Dom. de Bonserine, Condrieu - [-1], faint
"Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant"
The partnership with Louis Barruol began in 2006. They are basically following the same pattern as Darroze does in Armagnac: find outstanding artisanal makers and bottle them separately.
All the Barruol Cote-Rotie use all the stems.
2016 Dom. Faury, St-Joseph - [0], lactic
2016 Dom. Faury, St-Joseph VV - [1], much more wine in this wine, very tight
2016 Dom. Faury, Cote-Rotie - [0.5], light and lacking personality
2016 Louis Barruol Cote-Rotie "La Boisselee" - [1?], made from 6 lieu-dits and I can't tell whether I'm tasting stems, barrels, or just tricksy syrah
2015 Louis Barruol Cote-Rotie "La Boisselee" - [0], only two lieu-dits here (Viailliere, Fongeant), alas I'm also getting shoe-polish brett
2015 Louis Barruol Cote-Rotie "Besset" - [2.5], ah, much better balance and grip
2015 Louis Barruol Hermitage Rouge "La Pierrelle" - [1.5], enjoyable but not really distinctive
2013 Louis Barruol Hermitage Blanc "La Pierrelle" - [1.5], great nose, described as a 'vin de medicin' (used to doctor other lots) before being scooped up by the partners
2016 Dom. Faury, St-Joseph Blanc - [1], typique, nice
2016 Dom. Faury, Condrieu - [2]
"Skurnik Wines & Spirits"
They showed all Jaboulet Aine wines.
2016 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc "Dom Mule Blanche" - [0.5]
2016 Hermitage Blanc "Le Chevalier de Sterimberg" - [1], extra fragrant with a waxy tone that reminded me of chenin a bit
2016 Condrieu "Dom des Grands Amandiers" - [0]
2016 Crozes-Hermitage "Dom de Thalabert" - [0.5], good, wholesome
2016 Crozes-Hermitage "Dom Roure" - [2.5], vigorous, flavorful, great wine, the old Raymond Roure property was located on the beating heart of C-H
2016 St-Joseph "La Croix des Vignes" - [1], perhaps a little wood but not bad
2016 Cornas "Dom de Saint-Pierre" - [0], undistinguished
2016 Cote-Rotie "Dom des Pierrelles" - [1], OK
2016 Cote-Rotie "Maison Bleue" - [1], the old "Petite Chapelle" bottling, OK
2016 Hermitage "La Chapelle" - [1], also wholesome (best I can muster)
"Vintus"
They showed all Guigal wines.
2016 Cotes-du-Rhone Blanc - [0], a bit lifeless
2016 Condrieu - [0]
2015 Condrieu "La Doriane" - [-1], say the secret word and the duck will come down and bring you a pour of super-cuvee, Levi said it was less goopy than usual and he's right that it is a tad leaner but it's still woody and awful
2015 Crozes-Hermitage - [0], lactic
2014 Guigal Cote-Rotie "Brune et Blonde" - [0.5], sturdy and woody
Aurelien Chatagnier
Dom. Georges Vernay
Dom. les Bruyeres
Dom. Monier-Perreol
Jean-Baptiste Souillard
"Grand Cru Selections" (Clusel-Roch, Chave)
Maison Tardieu-Laurent
"Vinergie"
skipped
FOOD TABLES
Bien Cuit - Zachary Golper
Late Season Peach, Vanilla Custard, Ginger and Rye Streusel in a Croissant Dough... you know, Danish. Little ones. Crisp, not too sweet. Zach said he brought 300 pieces and it all went.
Bklyn Larder - Kristina Swan
Cheese and Charcuterie Station.. a large table heaped (and continually replenished) with prosciutto, mortadella, speck, soppressata, grapes, raisins, dried apricots, dehydrated lemon slices, oil-cured olives, Mimolette, Gouda, Grana Padano, and more.
Gramercy Tavern - Miro Uskokovic
Assortment of Cookies and Vanilla Milk... Guess it's a Milennial thing, milk and cookies with wine? Yeesh. This is the only food station I passed.
Ferris - Greg Proechel
Marinated Scallop with Corn, 'Nduja, Cornichon... and a buffered vinegar-based dressing to bring them together. Flavors were distinct and vivid (and good).
Halifax - Seadon Shouse
Lobster Ravioli with Coral Butter, Trumpet Mushrooms, Lobster "Chicharron"... Though the mushroom was uninspired, the rest of the dish was luxuriant and yummy: one large raviolo, flanked by a 2 oz lobster tail, in a briny pink sauce.
Pain d'Avignon - Joanne Cortese
Bread... lots of it, several kinds. Is it too awful for me to admit that I grabbed the end of a baguette from Bien Cuit and nibbled that in preference?
Temple Court - Abby Swain
Olive Oil Parfait with Concord Grape and Castelvetrano Olive... folks, really, more sweet food? Bring back the fowl hearts from last year, please!
The short of it:
- I think more winemakers were present this time.
- Condrieu still generally made in a lighter style, or perhaps that's just the result of a less-overripe vintage.
- Lots of 2016 and 2015 syrah. Completely different styles... 2016 fairly classic while 2015 is plush and sweet. Back-vintage 2013 shows well.
Tables listed in the order they appear in the booklet. Wines are listed in the order tasted. Where both colors are available, the blanc will be noted. I've already converted my quickie-rating system into the range -3 to +3.
WINE TABLES
Dom. Andre Perret
While tasting here a group of women approached the table. One of them was wearing an entire bottle of perfume, or so it seemed. I recoiled from them, and therefore the table, until they left. Andre was watching this and I couldn't be certain whether he immediately grasped the situation so I silently mouthed 'trop de parfum!'
This was my only encounter with perfume today but it made me wonder what percentage of this crowd really isn't wine geeks or wine ITB. A number of people seemed over-dressed, and a number of people were quite rude about what they'd like poured now. Sigh.
2016 Condrieu "Chery" - [1], 50-80 yr vines, light- to medium-weight, hardly any floral smellies at all but the finish surges late
2016 Condrieu "Clos Chanson" - [1], 35 yr vines, nose much more forthcoming (and pretty), palate still quite light
2016 St-Joseph - [1], known as "Classique", textbook
2016 St-Joseph "Les Grisieres" - [3], old vines around Tournon, fine grippy tannins, cool blue fruit and earth, one of the best wines in the room
Dom. Clape
I mentioned to Olivier Clape that I still have '96 and '99 laying down. He said that 1996 was a bit of a tough year but that it is time to open it. Of the 1999 he said, "forget about it for another 10 years."
2016 Cornas "Renaissance" - [2], 12-30 yr vines, rings the old-school bell on the nose but the palate is lighter texture
2016 Cornas - [2], much fuller but still a bit more polite than I think Cornas should be
Dom. Graillot & Dom. des Lises
Antoine Graillot explains that Dom. des Lises is run by his brother, hence they show together.
Of the family domaine he says that they bought all their land at once and have never bought any since. The parcels are clustered all around the house hence they do not really have diversity of terroir; that is why "La Guirade" is a barrel selection. He also said that "La Guirade" is made only when the family likes some barrels more than others; if none speak to them, the cuvee is not made.
I asked what is "La Guirade". He said there was a Dom. La Guirade about 50 years ago, defunct now, but it was a place his father loved in his childhood so they've honored that memory.
2016 Dom. des Lises St-Joseph - [1], made from purchased grapes, very strawberry fruit, grippy, nice in its style
2016 Dom. des Lises Crozes-Hermitage - [2], estate fruit, very full and rich, I like this one
2015 Dom. Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage - [1.5], stern, dry, imposing
2015 Dom. Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage "La Guiraude" - [1.5], same but with extra warm, sweet fruit (which is interesting but doesn't make me like it more)
Dom. du Coulet
Matthieu Barret uses the same fancy plastic corks as Ponsot, but in black.
2016 Cornas "Brise Cailloux" - [1.5], lightweight, red-fruit, doesn't really ring my bell of what-is-Cornas
2013 Cornas "Billes Noires" - [2], made from a single site of higher altitude than the Brise, this has very good balance
Dom Vincent Paris
I asked Vincent Paris whether he could use a horse on the 60-degree slope. He said the horse goes up once and then refuses ever to go up again.
I also asked him if he had any serine in his holdings. He said there is no serine in Cornas (...which I have trouble believing).
2016 Cornas "Granit 30" - [1.5], the vines grown on a hillside with 30-degree slope, very red-fruit and sweet, nice enough
2016 Cornas "Granit 60" - [2.5], similar but a bit wilder, less sweet, a bit of roots and earth
2016 Cornas "La Geynale" - [3], whole cluster, wonderful
Franck Balthazar
2016 Cotes-du-Rhone - [1], yup, grenache/syrah
2016 Cornas "Sans Soufre" - [2], all from Legre vineyard, very fragrant, seems not a complete wine to me, especially compared to the Cuvee
2016 Cornas "Cuvee Casimir" - [2], Legre and Mazards, typique, a bit obviously clean
2016 Cornas "Chaillot" - [3], 107 yr vines, intense, rich, spicy, licorice, yum
Julien Cecillon
I asked Julien who is Marguerite. He said it is the name of his wife, her mother, and her aunt!
2017 St-Peray "Gemini" - [0], 90%-10% marsanne-roussanne
2017 St-Joseph Blanc "Victoria" - [0] 100% marsanne
2017 IGP Gamay "La Savane" - [1], 50% whole cluster, instantly recognizable as gamay, I thought it was good (but it got no love in a room full of syraholics)
2016 St-Joseph "Babylone" - [1.5], also from up north near Tournon/Muzelles, juicy and suave
2016 Crozes-Hermitage "Les Marguerites" - [2], just the right amount of grip, I'd like to have this at the table
2016 Crozes-Hermitage "Les Marguerites" - [3], my notes are confused: I show this wine a second time, hand-written, with a notation that the chosen vineyards are "Ermitagean" and that I liked this one better than the previous; maybe it's a different vintage?
"Frederic Wildman & Sons"
No two wines from the same vintage?
2014 Dom. Coursodon, St-Joseph "Le Paradis Saint-Pierre" - [1.5], good, foursquare, straight-ahead, older vines
2013 Vidal-Fleury, Cote-Rotie "Brune et Blonde" - [0.5]
2010 Vidal-Fleury, Cote-Rotie "Cote Blonde, Le Chatillonne" - [1], better acidity, a little woody but not too awful
2012 Dom. de Bonserine, Cote-Rotie "La Garde" - [0], owned by Guigal but run by a separate team, long maceration and long in small barrels, meh, the oak tannins are blocky and obtrusive
2011 Dom. Philippe et Vincent Jaboulet, Ermitage - [1], this is where the family went after they sold Jaboulet Aine, some delicacy in the mid-palate, maybe look-in from time to time
2016 Dom. de Bonserine, Condrieu - [-1], faint
"Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant"
The partnership with Louis Barruol began in 2006. They are basically following the same pattern as Darroze does in Armagnac: find outstanding artisanal makers and bottle them separately.
All the Barruol Cote-Rotie use all the stems.
2016 Dom. Faury, St-Joseph - [0], lactic
2016 Dom. Faury, St-Joseph VV - [1], much more wine in this wine, very tight
2016 Dom. Faury, Cote-Rotie - [0.5], light and lacking personality
2016 Louis Barruol Cote-Rotie "La Boisselee" - [1?], made from 6 lieu-dits and I can't tell whether I'm tasting stems, barrels, or just tricksy syrah
2015 Louis Barruol Cote-Rotie "La Boisselee" - [0], only two lieu-dits here (Viailliere, Fongeant), alas I'm also getting shoe-polish brett
2015 Louis Barruol Cote-Rotie "Besset" - [2.5], ah, much better balance and grip
2015 Louis Barruol Hermitage Rouge "La Pierrelle" - [1.5], enjoyable but not really distinctive
2013 Louis Barruol Hermitage Blanc "La Pierrelle" - [1.5], great nose, described as a 'vin de medicin' (used to doctor other lots) before being scooped up by the partners
2016 Dom. Faury, St-Joseph Blanc - [1], typique, nice
2016 Dom. Faury, Condrieu - [2]
"Skurnik Wines & Spirits"
They showed all Jaboulet Aine wines.
2016 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc "Dom Mule Blanche" - [0.5]
2016 Hermitage Blanc "Le Chevalier de Sterimberg" - [1], extra fragrant with a waxy tone that reminded me of chenin a bit
2016 Condrieu "Dom des Grands Amandiers" - [0]
2016 Crozes-Hermitage "Dom de Thalabert" - [0.5], good, wholesome
2016 Crozes-Hermitage "Dom Roure" - [2.5], vigorous, flavorful, great wine, the old Raymond Roure property was located on the beating heart of C-H
2016 St-Joseph "La Croix des Vignes" - [1], perhaps a little wood but not bad
2016 Cornas "Dom de Saint-Pierre" - [0], undistinguished
2016 Cote-Rotie "Dom des Pierrelles" - [1], OK
2016 Cote-Rotie "Maison Bleue" - [1], the old "Petite Chapelle" bottling, OK
2016 Hermitage "La Chapelle" - [1], also wholesome (best I can muster)
"Vintus"
They showed all Guigal wines.
2016 Cotes-du-Rhone Blanc - [0], a bit lifeless
2016 Condrieu - [0]
2015 Condrieu "La Doriane" - [-1], say the secret word and the duck will come down and bring you a pour of super-cuvee, Levi said it was less goopy than usual and he's right that it is a tad leaner but it's still woody and awful
2015 Crozes-Hermitage - [0], lactic
2014 Guigal Cote-Rotie "Brune et Blonde" - [0.5], sturdy and woody
Aurelien Chatagnier
Dom. Georges Vernay
Dom. les Bruyeres
Dom. Monier-Perreol
Jean-Baptiste Souillard
"Grand Cru Selections" (Clusel-Roch, Chave)
Maison Tardieu-Laurent
"Vinergie"
skipped
FOOD TABLES
Bien Cuit - Zachary Golper
Late Season Peach, Vanilla Custard, Ginger and Rye Streusel in a Croissant Dough... you know, Danish. Little ones. Crisp, not too sweet. Zach said he brought 300 pieces and it all went.
Bklyn Larder - Kristina Swan
Cheese and Charcuterie Station.. a large table heaped (and continually replenished) with prosciutto, mortadella, speck, soppressata, grapes, raisins, dried apricots, dehydrated lemon slices, oil-cured olives, Mimolette, Gouda, Grana Padano, and more.
Gramercy Tavern - Miro Uskokovic
Assortment of Cookies and Vanilla Milk... Guess it's a Milennial thing, milk and cookies with wine? Yeesh. This is the only food station I passed.
Ferris - Greg Proechel
Marinated Scallop with Corn, 'Nduja, Cornichon... and a buffered vinegar-based dressing to bring them together. Flavors were distinct and vivid (and good).
Halifax - Seadon Shouse
Lobster Ravioli with Coral Butter, Trumpet Mushrooms, Lobster "Chicharron"... Though the mushroom was uninspired, the rest of the dish was luxuriant and yummy: one large raviolo, flanked by a 2 oz lobster tail, in a briny pink sauce.
Pain d'Avignon - Joanne Cortese
Bread... lots of it, several kinds. Is it too awful for me to admit that I grabbed the end of a baguette from Bien Cuit and nibbled that in preference?
Temple Court - Abby Swain
Olive Oil Parfait with Concord Grape and Castelvetrano Olive... folks, really, more sweet food? Bring back the fowl hearts from last year, please!
