Lots of occasions to pull wines from the cellar over the holidays and I tried to every chance I got. Other folks also supplied some wines and I had some in restaurants that I have not noted here. After all this, January is going to be dry.
1998 Ch“teau Trotanoy - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (12/31/2018)
Great nose, distinctively Pomerol and restrained in the Trotanoy style. The palate isn't in harmony with the nose., it's pretty tight and unyielding. The rich food we're having helps that out a bit, but it's still a bit of a chore. This should be a great wine one day, but it'll take a while longer to get there, maybe 10 more years. (92 points)
2016 Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône (Le Poutet) - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (12/31/2018)
Very good Côtes du Rhône in an aromatic, mid-weight style. I should make sure to get some of this every year. (88 points)
2007 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (12/31/2018)
In a similar vein as the other recent bottle of this and of similar quality but seemingly younger and less evolved. I reserve the right to change my mind, but this might be my favorite Champagne these days. It straddles the line between lean and intense wines like Suenen C+C and bigger, fruitier wines like Roederer 2009. (94 points)
2013 Eric Texier Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape (12/31/2018)
Wow, this bottle was excellent. Fresh and lively on the nose with bright, perfect cherry compote with some floral notes all wrapped up with some garrigue wrapping everything together. The shape of the wine was perfect with acidity and supple tannin keeping all of the flavors rotating in orbit. This is the best red Ch“teauneuf I've ever had from Eric and with it I think that he is expressing exactly what he is trying to do with this wine. It stood out as one of the best wines of the holidays with lots of stiff competition. (95 points)
2009 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina Riserva Bucerchiale - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina (12/31/2018)
Even less than the first bottle. Sigh. (87 points)
2013 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Meix Chavaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (12/30/2018)
A bit of matchstick on the nose and then plenty of minerals. Correct and all of that, but left me a bit cold. Might have more to give, so I'd let bottles sit for a couple of years if oyu have them, this was my one and only. (90 points)
2013 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Tessons - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (12/30/2018)
This was another Meursault relative disappointment. I've had better, deeper bottles of this. A fine chardonnay with Meursault flourish, but I had hoped for more density and excitement. (90 points)
2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/30/2018)
Never, ever disappoints. (92 points)
1996 François Pinon Vouvray 1er Trie - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (12/30/2018)
Really similar to my last bottle, except maybe even fresher and more floral. (93 points)
1996 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (12/30/2018)
The best bottle of this I've ever had. Darker color than I remember and also touch bigger and sweeter but with really varnished, resonant flavor and intensity, although there is also an unexpected gentleness to it. Maturing moelleux chenin notes are all in place and dialed in. This is probably one of those Huets that if the cork is OK, then it may well be immortal. Makes me miss SFJoe. (94 points)
2005 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (12/30/2018)
I'm still trying to figure out if I really love Fourrier. I had some formative experiences with the wines years ago and have been buying and cellaring them, but not drinking them all that often. Of the Burgundies this evening, it was the most ethereal and elegant and the least tannic with the most prominent acid structure, but it was by no means sharp. The shape of the wine was the best thing about it, it felt spherical and it was elegant, but it didn't strike me as obviously Gevrey. This bottle didn't solve my conundrum. (92 points)
2008 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (12/30/2018)
Now this wine screams Gevrey, with that earthy, animal-mineral dark fruits. No evidence of the magic barrels and only the slightest bit of reduction to start. Still on the young side with tannin to shed, but not nearly as backwards as I had feared. A good showing for what will end up being an excellent wine. I'd give it another few years to really hit the first peak and it should go from there for a while. (92 points)
1995 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (12/30/2018)
Finally, a bottle of Barthod that is fully mature and showing the cut and beauty that I have been expecting. Heading towards a tertiary and leafy phase with the beginnings of sous bois underneath the red fruit that has lost it's crunchiness but is not yet dry. A bit of mineral underpinning and fine tannin create the shape. This is the true Chambolle experience from a master of the form. Fully ready and should hold for 5-7 years, maybe more if you like old wine. (94 points)
2005 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (12/30/2018)
I was happy with how this showed as I was fearing a face slap of shut down. It's very young and the darkest colored of the wines at the table, but you can see what's starting to happen as the tannin move from front to back and the fruit starts to fill in all those cracks in the middle. Definitely the minerals of Fuées encircle the spine of firm tannin that the fruit coats, mostly but not fully, on the finish. I think 3-5 and it will start hitting a really nice plateau and I will check back in then. (93 points)
2016 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (12/29/2018)
Took to a party and only one glass, seemed like a really good version of the basic Fleurie and I'm probably underrating it. (90 points)
2015 Clos du Rouge Gorge Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes Vieilles Vignes - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes (12/29/2018)
This was a disappointment. Had a great bottle of the 2014 in Montreal a year or so ago and had high hopes for this one. Had a bit of baby diaper on the nose, fruit was good and I really liked the balance and shape of the wine. Re-corked half the bottle and returned it to the cellar. When I tried it the next there was mouse in the house. This wine is not cheap, so it's a no go for me. (87 points)
2013 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/29/2018)
My first bottle of this vintage as we've gone through all of the 2011 and I want to stop drinking the 2010. Much more structured and less botrytis marked than the 2011. It still has that exotic, slightly feral tropical fruit thing that Thévenet gets from this terroir. The acids are more bracing. This bottle went fast, so I don't think my perception is fully formed on this wine. (90 points)
2009 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/28/2018)
This showed more like the 2005, except maybe more closed in on itself and tannic. Air helped it spread out, but it doesn't seem to want to be fully open quite yet. I was hoping to catch it in an open phase as many 2009s can be. The fruit is dark and rich with that mineral, animal earth and a hint of bark that I get from Geantet's Charmes. I really like the shape of the fruit in these wines. I broke my own rule and bought this and the 2012 at a recent HDH auction. I justified it because they were original unbroken cases and since no one cares about Geantet, I had hoped that I would be the second owner. The bottles were in great shape and this one seemed totally correct. Looking forward to re-visiting in 3-5 years. (93 points)
2012 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/28/2018)
This was as delicious a wine as I had over the holidays. Tons of exuberant dark cherry fruit with shape and lift. Really deep and long and coats the palate. A joy to drink and so nice to find it in an open spot, especially compared with the 2009 opened alongside it. Should be good for years of positive evolution given the underlying structure and shaping acid balance. This was another unbroken case from the recent HDH auction. I feel very lucky since I grabbed this for 60% of the price for the current release. Another thing I realize is that I've really enjoyed every 2012 red Burgundy that I've had recently. I don't have nearly enough of this vintage in th ecellar. (95 points)
NV Savart Champagne Premier Cru L'accomplie - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (12/25/2018)
Savart is my current crush in Champagne. I like the spice and texture the barrels impart when measured against the low dosage style. There is tension and density while also spice from the wood (I guess) with a finish that clears the palate with acids and structure leaving you yearning for another sip. Does really well with food. I can't wait to see how this does with a few years in the cellar. (92 points)
NV Mouzon-Leroux & Fils Champagne Grand Cru l’Ascendant Extra Brut Réserve - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (12/25/2018)
I've had this a couple times in the past few weeks, first at a Champagne dinner where it was paired with the cheese course, here as an apertif with snacks. I find that this is less laserlike or tough sledding than many low dosage Champagne, probably due to the "solera" which seems to round things out and add some doughy and rounder notes. Very good wine that I plan to keep at hand. (91 points)
2007 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (12/24/2018)
I have a real soft spot for this Champagne. I love the combination of bright fruit with the spice and other wood scents. It has a velvety mousse with some structure but mostly caressing gentleness. This may be my favorite Champagne these days, but of course I don't own much. Dummy. I think it's great now, but should keep going for 5-10 years depending on your preference. (95 points)
2005 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (12/24/2018)
Really beautiful, very Grézeaux nose. It's tough sledding on the palate, though. Served with prime rib roast on Christmas Eve helped but this wine has gone in a direction I didn't anticipate. I remember talking to Matthieu after tasting through the barrel samples of the 2005s. He had never seen anything like them in terms of the numbers. The ripeness and also the tannins were the highest he'd ever measured and he wasn't sure what to make of the wines. He and I were much more confident about how the more classically styled 2004 would age and that has mostly played out. This wine seems to be drying out a bit, but I'm not really sure. I also think that given the changing climate and bigger, riper vintages, I think he's learned a thing or two about tannin management. I guess this should be buried for 3-5 more years, then check again. (90 points)
2012 Le Piane Boca - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Boca (12/24/2018)
The last bottle of this I opened several hours in advance and it seemed to shut down. This bottle we opened and enjoyed with lunch. All the things I love about Piane Boca and this blend. It seems to get some plums to compliment the nebbiolo cherry and there are some warm baking spice notes (not from wood) there as well. Not as tannic as I remember, but still with structure. Quite delicious now but sure to improve over the next decade and may last longer. We can't get enough of these Alto Piemonte wines over the last few years. (92 points)
2005 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/24/2018)
Served this out of magnum with Christmas prime rib roast. This is starting to come into its own, but not yet as resolved as the Poissenots. The fruit is on the darker side and the earthy elements speak to Gevrey. I really like the mouthfeel of the Geantet wines. I'm not positive about this one, but most of the vines they have are older and pinot fin, and I think that makes a difference. There is still a decent bit of structure to fight through on the back end, but that works well with the richness of the roast. I'm glad I'm the only one who seems to like these wines, they are amongst the last remaining values in Burgundy, IMO. As a side note, I bought this at auction last year and when I received it was dismayed to see an Acker sticker on it. One of the nice things about no one caring about Geantet is that the wines don't get traded very often and usually avoid crap houses like Acker. This cork was pristine and the wine showed fresh and vintage correct, so I think I got lucky. Goes to show that even from HDH (where I bought it), the bottles can have a shady history. I really need to stop it with the secondary market. (94 points)
2009 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina Riserva Bucerchiale - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina (12/22/2018)
I guess it's fine. I was hoping for more, but I bought these bottles on the secondary market from a CA retailer and the cork was soaked. Had this been stored well, it may have been quite good, it seemed sapped of life. Note to self: stop buying on the secondary market. (88 points)
2015 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Clisson - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine (12/21/2018)
This is showing very well out of the 3L. The warmth of the year seems to have really upped the fruit, but there remains mineral, granite underpinnings. We had this with oysters and hors d'oeuvres and it was probably best with the salmon. So yummy and easy to drink. You can cellar it if you want but I'm drinking mine over the next few years to capture whatever is going on now. (92 points)
2009 Louis Roederer Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne (12/21/2018)
Well made, well mannered and delicious in its idiom. Maybe a touch boring, but a crowd pleaser and easy to drink. Good fruit, fine mousse, some toasty and nut notes to sit over it all. May also age decently. This may have a place in our cellar as it is Vilmart like without being as hard to get and significantly cheaper and a change of pace from the Extra Brut wines that we mostly have. (92 points)
NV Marie-Noëlle Ledru Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (12/21/2018)
Whoa, this was a bracing, lean showing especially compared with the Roederer. Not sure why I opened it when I did as I think it would have showed better in another setting. I'm trying to keep track of what release these are so that I can age them for a few years. If past experience is a guide, certain to improve. (90 points)
2005 François Pinon Vouvray Cuvée Botrytis Limited Release - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (12/21/2018)
Really big and dense with caramelized sugar notes surrounding baked apples and pears. Has some acidity to keep the shape together. Very nice and digestible was to finish a meal with some excellent Stilton. (92 points)
1996 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (12/21/2018)
To me, this is fully mature and in a perfect drinking window. Classically proportioned with age appropriate nebbiolo aromas and flavors. What struck me on the nose was the complexity of the non-fruit and floral notes, it would be foolish to try to pick them out. In comparison to the Barolos we had next to it, you can really see the different in weight and shape. (93 points)
1996 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/21/2018)
This was an emotional choice for the evening in the year that Dominico passed away. I had several memorable visits with him over the years and he was unceasingly generous and willing to entertain discussions about his approach to making Barolo. I'll admit, several times I've feared for the future of this wine given the modern elevage but couldn't bear to part with it due to the memories of the trip when I tasted it from barrel. Anyway, it seems to have absorbed the wood, to my surprise. It also has shed the sense of blockiness that pervades modernist Barolo. The palate was svelte and the tannins harmoniuos. There was more fruit than in the Brovia, but that could be Monforte vs Serralunga. A really beautiful and complex bottle of wine, both sensuous and compelling. I guess he was right after all. (94 points)
1996 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Ca'mia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/21/2018)
Of the 1996 Langhe wines tonight, this was the youngest showing, not surprisingly. That being said, it is in a window of drinkability, I just think it could get better. You feel the structure the most here. There are also more brown notes. By that I mean leather, baking spices, tree bark, all sorts of stuff. This shows less floral notes than the other wines, but does pack a decent bit of fruit. I think this would suit the right dishes just fine now but may come together even better in 2-3 more years. Close enough to swing away if you want. (93 points)
2015 Eric Texier Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape (12/21/2018)
We didn't do this bottle justice. I opened it for a dish it didn't work with and then re-corked. We drank the rest kind of as a cocktail wine with finger foods the next day before a dinner party. It was delicious, as always, I just didn't pay much attention and then when I went back, it was gone, even from magnum. In my experience, this is an excellent wine, I feel bad I didn't give it the attention it deserved.
2016 Immich-Batterieberg Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (12/19/2018)
The color surprised me as it had a burnished gold tint to it whereas I expected something lighter. This doesn't translate into heaviness on the palate where the wine is graceful and svelte. There is ample richness which is being kept in check by the structure and a bit of sweetness (the label doesn't indicate what amount) such that everything fits together in a sort of symmetry. I'm not sure that I'm conveying how much I liked this wine. My only conundrum with wines like this is what to do with them at the table. Whatever else, Gernot is making smashing wines. (93 points)
2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/18/2018)
OK, it may be time to slow down on this but it is such an excellent wine, it's hard to stop. This is how I end up with no aged bottles in the cellar. (92 points)
2017 Montenidoli Canaiuolo Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (12/18/2018)
Last bottle of our house rosé from this year. Pale salmon color and a nose that starts off herby and savory. It takes a few minutes for the sour cherry type fruit to start to emerge. This is always a good choice and is great at the table. I bet it might age in interesting ways as well, but I've never tried that. (90 points)
2006 Domaine Pavelot (Jean-Marc et Hugues) Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Vergelesses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (12/17/2018)
Very well mannered but fading wine. Plenty of sous bois and dried fruit and flowers. Structure has all melted away and you can see a bit of bricking at the edges. Not falling off a cliff, but drink up. (88 points)
2012 Ghostwriter Pinot Noir Belle Farms - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz County (12/17/2018)
A weird, clenched showing for this wine and not consistent with other experiences. Not flawed, just not friendly. (89 points)
2005 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin en Champs - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (12/17/2018)
I'm glad I seem to be the only one who likes Geantet wines. There is a real sense of old vine sap and density to the wine which is lifted by lively acidity and fresh fruit smashed on stones. Plenty of structure remains, but this is in that first sweet spot where the fruit is still driving and the structure has started to fall back. The fruit is the focus here, but there is that Gevrey animal-mineral-dark earth thing and a leafy woodsiness. Wish this wasn't my last bottle. (92 points)
2015 Ch“teau Génot-Boulanger Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Clos du Chapitre - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru (12/17/2018)
Hmmm, when we used this wine at a wine dinner in the beginning of the year it showed really well. Not anymore, this bad boy is shut down. It's reduced upon opening and even after a couple hours it is still fairly structured. This is the first vintage I've had of this wine so I'll be interested to mark its progress. Check back in 5-7 years, I think, maybe longer. (90 points)
2015 Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Vinothekfüllung - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (12/15/2018)
OK, this is way too young. Dense, coiled fruit. I was hoping it would be more open, but no such luck. I'll wait a few years before I try another, but I imagine that it'll take longer to peak and could last forever. (91 points)
2014 Domaine Pierre Guillemot Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Serpentières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru (12/14/2018)
Um, this was a mistake to open, especially a magnum. I had read somewhere that Guillemot's 2014s were surprisingly open. Not this one. Everything you'd want but backward and sullen. Try again in 3-5 years from 750. (88 points)
2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/12/2018)
Same as it previous bottles. Delicious. (92 points)
2011 Marie-Noëlle Ledru Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée du Goulté Blanc de Noirs Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (12/11/2018)
The density and power of this wine always amazes, even in a difficult year like 2011. Unlike other vintages, this is quite approachable right now. Real vinosity to this with the pinot fruit dominating other notes. Wish it wasn't so hard to find. (93 points)
1980 Penfolds Grange - Australia, South Australia (12/10/2018)
Out of magnum for Steph's birthday at Racines. Lot's of vanilla oak on the nose to go with not quite jammy but not quite not dark fruits. Completely resolved on the palate where the fruit is complemented by spice, more wood notes and a bit of saddle leather. This seems like a wine that could stay in this spot for another couple of decades. I'll keep an eye out for other bottles as 1980 is a difficult vintage to find good wines and this was very good. On a side note, I was bummed that it didn't make the Racines Insta feed. (93 points)
2009 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Ghemme Collis Carellae - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Ghemme (12/6/2018)
Other bottles have showed a bit of brett or reduction (sometimes, I can't differentiate the two) but this bottle was clean and sappy. That perfectly lifted cherry scent that makes nebbiolo so beguiling with floral and bramble notes laced through it. Not terribly tannic and with good acid balance. Great now and should continue to build on this for a good while. I don't imagine this will make old bones but I wouldn't want it to anyway. (93 points)
2009 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (12/6/2018)
Wow! I really, really liked this wine. I haven't been following Collier after not being impressed about 10 years ago but a bottle with Matthieu Baudry (on his insistence) this Spring was revelatory. This wine has it all. Dense chenin fruit propped by minerals and acid but with a few years of age it has all come together. This is a round package of a wine and I'm not sure whether that's due to having some age or the vintage itself. I cleaned out Max in his yearly sale and I imagine that these bottles, like many chenin, may be immortal. There is so much material here. Looking forward to following this and getting more wines from Antoine. I'd like to meet this guy. (94 points)
2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/5/2018)
Same as it previous bottles. Delicious. (92 points)
2012 Ceritas Chardonnay Heintz Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (12/5/2018)
Maybe the best CA chardonnay I've had this year. There is a real sense of density and a spine of minerals to the wine that cleans and refreshes the palate and makes you thirst for more. Of the Ceritas chardonnays, this has the most exotic profile. A great blend of yellow fruits and minerals. This may continue to improve in the cellar but is in a great spot now. (94 points)
2015 Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur L'Insolite - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (12/5/2018)
Bracing and chalky with the fruit more in the back and in reserve than I expected given the warm vintage. Should be better in a couple of years, but certainly fun to drink now and great at the table. I really am impressed by this current iteration of Thierry Germain, especially the whites. (91 points)
2014 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône-Brézème (12/4/2018)
A fresh, pretty version of this wine, which is exactly how Eric wants it. Savory notes wrap around the syrah fruit with all sort sof other scents including herbs and a hint of smoke. The way it all fits together makes for easy drinking. We had this without food. It doesn't need any more time and I'll be drinking our remaining bottles over the next couple of years. (90 points)
2016 Davide Carlone Croatina Colline Novaresi - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Colline Novaresi (12/4/2018)
You really shouldn't drink this without food. It's a blocky wine with some fruit that tastes like purple paste in the way that mondeuse shows fruit. I've had this wine before so I feel like a dummy for having it solo. (88 points)
2012 Colombera & Garella Lessona Pizzaguerra - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Lessona (12/3/2018)
Within a week of the last bottle and while the notes are mostly the same, I found this bottle a bit deeper and more resonant. Really starting to shine. I have no idea what the aging curve will be on these wines, I don't think anyone does. I'll save at least a bottle for 10 years or so but it'll be tough given how well this is showing now. (93 points)
2006 Antoniolo Gattinara San Francesco - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara (12/3/2018)
Similar showing to the Castelle but maybe a bit darker in its profile, both in fruit and earth. I really like the way these are showing now. They are in that first sweet spot for me when the structure has started to resolve but the fruit is still juicy. This should last for a couple decades and when you drink it will be driven by personal preference. (92 points)
2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/2/2018)
Same as it previous bottles. Delicious. (92 points)
NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée No. 736 - France, Champagne (12/2/2018)
Last bottle from this case and it was as lovely as the rest. I do wish that it had been cared for before it got to me. I'd love to see how well stored bottles show in comparison given how good this was. (92 points)
2015 Philippe Pacalet Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (12/2/2018)
Sappy cherry and berry fruit with notes of earth and some spice. No oak notes but there is a woodland scent to it, if that makes any sense. Too bad these are so expensive because having Burgundy that is so delicious and drinkable this young is such a gift. I think these will keep and spread out a bit, but who cares? (91 points)
2013 Villa S. Anna Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (12/1/2018)
We've been through about a case of this and there are only a few bottles left in the house. For me, it shows an archetype profile for sangiovese. Some earth and leather wrapped around sour and black cherry fruit all draped over a structure that is firm but not aggressive. Enough tannin and acid to cut through rich dishes but not so much structure as to overpower lighter foods. Really versatile at the table, which is exactly what it should be. I like it now, but it is sure to do well for 5-7 more years, maybe longer. (91 points)
2009 Rhys Pinot Noir Skyline Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (12/1/2018)
Well made and mannered wine, just boring. (89 points)
1998 Ch“teau Trotanoy - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (12/31/2018)
Great nose, distinctively Pomerol and restrained in the Trotanoy style. The palate isn't in harmony with the nose., it's pretty tight and unyielding. The rich food we're having helps that out a bit, but it's still a bit of a chore. This should be a great wine one day, but it'll take a while longer to get there, maybe 10 more years. (92 points)
2016 Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône (Le Poutet) - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (12/31/2018)
Very good Côtes du Rhône in an aromatic, mid-weight style. I should make sure to get some of this every year. (88 points)
2007 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (12/31/2018)
In a similar vein as the other recent bottle of this and of similar quality but seemingly younger and less evolved. I reserve the right to change my mind, but this might be my favorite Champagne these days. It straddles the line between lean and intense wines like Suenen C+C and bigger, fruitier wines like Roederer 2009. (94 points)
2013 Eric Texier Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape (12/31/2018)
Wow, this bottle was excellent. Fresh and lively on the nose with bright, perfect cherry compote with some floral notes all wrapped up with some garrigue wrapping everything together. The shape of the wine was perfect with acidity and supple tannin keeping all of the flavors rotating in orbit. This is the best red Ch“teauneuf I've ever had from Eric and with it I think that he is expressing exactly what he is trying to do with this wine. It stood out as one of the best wines of the holidays with lots of stiff competition. (95 points)
2009 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina Riserva Bucerchiale - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina (12/31/2018)
Even less than the first bottle. Sigh. (87 points)
2013 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Meix Chavaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (12/30/2018)
A bit of matchstick on the nose and then plenty of minerals. Correct and all of that, but left me a bit cold. Might have more to give, so I'd let bottles sit for a couple of years if oyu have them, this was my one and only. (90 points)
2013 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Tessons - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (12/30/2018)
This was another Meursault relative disappointment. I've had better, deeper bottles of this. A fine chardonnay with Meursault flourish, but I had hoped for more density and excitement. (90 points)
2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/30/2018)
Never, ever disappoints. (92 points)
1996 François Pinon Vouvray 1er Trie - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (12/30/2018)
Really similar to my last bottle, except maybe even fresher and more floral. (93 points)
1996 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (12/30/2018)
The best bottle of this I've ever had. Darker color than I remember and also touch bigger and sweeter but with really varnished, resonant flavor and intensity, although there is also an unexpected gentleness to it. Maturing moelleux chenin notes are all in place and dialed in. This is probably one of those Huets that if the cork is OK, then it may well be immortal. Makes me miss SFJoe. (94 points)
2005 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (12/30/2018)
I'm still trying to figure out if I really love Fourrier. I had some formative experiences with the wines years ago and have been buying and cellaring them, but not drinking them all that often. Of the Burgundies this evening, it was the most ethereal and elegant and the least tannic with the most prominent acid structure, but it was by no means sharp. The shape of the wine was the best thing about it, it felt spherical and it was elegant, but it didn't strike me as obviously Gevrey. This bottle didn't solve my conundrum. (92 points)
2008 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (12/30/2018)
Now this wine screams Gevrey, with that earthy, animal-mineral dark fruits. No evidence of the magic barrels and only the slightest bit of reduction to start. Still on the young side with tannin to shed, but not nearly as backwards as I had feared. A good showing for what will end up being an excellent wine. I'd give it another few years to really hit the first peak and it should go from there for a while. (92 points)
1995 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (12/30/2018)
Finally, a bottle of Barthod that is fully mature and showing the cut and beauty that I have been expecting. Heading towards a tertiary and leafy phase with the beginnings of sous bois underneath the red fruit that has lost it's crunchiness but is not yet dry. A bit of mineral underpinning and fine tannin create the shape. This is the true Chambolle experience from a master of the form. Fully ready and should hold for 5-7 years, maybe more if you like old wine. (94 points)
2005 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (12/30/2018)
I was happy with how this showed as I was fearing a face slap of shut down. It's very young and the darkest colored of the wines at the table, but you can see what's starting to happen as the tannin move from front to back and the fruit starts to fill in all those cracks in the middle. Definitely the minerals of Fuées encircle the spine of firm tannin that the fruit coats, mostly but not fully, on the finish. I think 3-5 and it will start hitting a really nice plateau and I will check back in then. (93 points)
2016 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (12/29/2018)
Took to a party and only one glass, seemed like a really good version of the basic Fleurie and I'm probably underrating it. (90 points)
2015 Clos du Rouge Gorge Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes Vieilles Vignes - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes (12/29/2018)
This was a disappointment. Had a great bottle of the 2014 in Montreal a year or so ago and had high hopes for this one. Had a bit of baby diaper on the nose, fruit was good and I really liked the balance and shape of the wine. Re-corked half the bottle and returned it to the cellar. When I tried it the next there was mouse in the house. This wine is not cheap, so it's a no go for me. (87 points)
2013 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/29/2018)
My first bottle of this vintage as we've gone through all of the 2011 and I want to stop drinking the 2010. Much more structured and less botrytis marked than the 2011. It still has that exotic, slightly feral tropical fruit thing that Thévenet gets from this terroir. The acids are more bracing. This bottle went fast, so I don't think my perception is fully formed on this wine. (90 points)
2009 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/28/2018)
This showed more like the 2005, except maybe more closed in on itself and tannic. Air helped it spread out, but it doesn't seem to want to be fully open quite yet. I was hoping to catch it in an open phase as many 2009s can be. The fruit is dark and rich with that mineral, animal earth and a hint of bark that I get from Geantet's Charmes. I really like the shape of the fruit in these wines. I broke my own rule and bought this and the 2012 at a recent HDH auction. I justified it because they were original unbroken cases and since no one cares about Geantet, I had hoped that I would be the second owner. The bottles were in great shape and this one seemed totally correct. Looking forward to re-visiting in 3-5 years. (93 points)
2012 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/28/2018)
This was as delicious a wine as I had over the holidays. Tons of exuberant dark cherry fruit with shape and lift. Really deep and long and coats the palate. A joy to drink and so nice to find it in an open spot, especially compared with the 2009 opened alongside it. Should be good for years of positive evolution given the underlying structure and shaping acid balance. This was another unbroken case from the recent HDH auction. I feel very lucky since I grabbed this for 60% of the price for the current release. Another thing I realize is that I've really enjoyed every 2012 red Burgundy that I've had recently. I don't have nearly enough of this vintage in th ecellar. (95 points)
NV Savart Champagne Premier Cru L'accomplie - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (12/25/2018)
Savart is my current crush in Champagne. I like the spice and texture the barrels impart when measured against the low dosage style. There is tension and density while also spice from the wood (I guess) with a finish that clears the palate with acids and structure leaving you yearning for another sip. Does really well with food. I can't wait to see how this does with a few years in the cellar. (92 points)
NV Mouzon-Leroux & Fils Champagne Grand Cru l’Ascendant Extra Brut Réserve - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (12/25/2018)
I've had this a couple times in the past few weeks, first at a Champagne dinner where it was paired with the cheese course, here as an apertif with snacks. I find that this is less laserlike or tough sledding than many low dosage Champagne, probably due to the "solera" which seems to round things out and add some doughy and rounder notes. Very good wine that I plan to keep at hand. (91 points)
2007 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (12/24/2018)
I have a real soft spot for this Champagne. I love the combination of bright fruit with the spice and other wood scents. It has a velvety mousse with some structure but mostly caressing gentleness. This may be my favorite Champagne these days, but of course I don't own much. Dummy. I think it's great now, but should keep going for 5-10 years depending on your preference. (95 points)
2005 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (12/24/2018)
Really beautiful, very Grézeaux nose. It's tough sledding on the palate, though. Served with prime rib roast on Christmas Eve helped but this wine has gone in a direction I didn't anticipate. I remember talking to Matthieu after tasting through the barrel samples of the 2005s. He had never seen anything like them in terms of the numbers. The ripeness and also the tannins were the highest he'd ever measured and he wasn't sure what to make of the wines. He and I were much more confident about how the more classically styled 2004 would age and that has mostly played out. This wine seems to be drying out a bit, but I'm not really sure. I also think that given the changing climate and bigger, riper vintages, I think he's learned a thing or two about tannin management. I guess this should be buried for 3-5 more years, then check again. (90 points)
2012 Le Piane Boca - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Boca (12/24/2018)
The last bottle of this I opened several hours in advance and it seemed to shut down. This bottle we opened and enjoyed with lunch. All the things I love about Piane Boca and this blend. It seems to get some plums to compliment the nebbiolo cherry and there are some warm baking spice notes (not from wood) there as well. Not as tannic as I remember, but still with structure. Quite delicious now but sure to improve over the next decade and may last longer. We can't get enough of these Alto Piemonte wines over the last few years. (92 points)
2005 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/24/2018)
Served this out of magnum with Christmas prime rib roast. This is starting to come into its own, but not yet as resolved as the Poissenots. The fruit is on the darker side and the earthy elements speak to Gevrey. I really like the mouthfeel of the Geantet wines. I'm not positive about this one, but most of the vines they have are older and pinot fin, and I think that makes a difference. There is still a decent bit of structure to fight through on the back end, but that works well with the richness of the roast. I'm glad I'm the only one who seems to like these wines, they are amongst the last remaining values in Burgundy, IMO. As a side note, I bought this at auction last year and when I received it was dismayed to see an Acker sticker on it. One of the nice things about no one caring about Geantet is that the wines don't get traded very often and usually avoid crap houses like Acker. This cork was pristine and the wine showed fresh and vintage correct, so I think I got lucky. Goes to show that even from HDH (where I bought it), the bottles can have a shady history. I really need to stop it with the secondary market. (94 points)
2009 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina Riserva Bucerchiale - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina (12/22/2018)
I guess it's fine. I was hoping for more, but I bought these bottles on the secondary market from a CA retailer and the cork was soaked. Had this been stored well, it may have been quite good, it seemed sapped of life. Note to self: stop buying on the secondary market. (88 points)
2015 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Clisson - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine (12/21/2018)
This is showing very well out of the 3L. The warmth of the year seems to have really upped the fruit, but there remains mineral, granite underpinnings. We had this with oysters and hors d'oeuvres and it was probably best with the salmon. So yummy and easy to drink. You can cellar it if you want but I'm drinking mine over the next few years to capture whatever is going on now. (92 points)
2009 Louis Roederer Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne (12/21/2018)
Well made, well mannered and delicious in its idiom. Maybe a touch boring, but a crowd pleaser and easy to drink. Good fruit, fine mousse, some toasty and nut notes to sit over it all. May also age decently. This may have a place in our cellar as it is Vilmart like without being as hard to get and significantly cheaper and a change of pace from the Extra Brut wines that we mostly have. (92 points)
NV Marie-Noëlle Ledru Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (12/21/2018)
Whoa, this was a bracing, lean showing especially compared with the Roederer. Not sure why I opened it when I did as I think it would have showed better in another setting. I'm trying to keep track of what release these are so that I can age them for a few years. If past experience is a guide, certain to improve. (90 points)
2005 François Pinon Vouvray Cuvée Botrytis Limited Release - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (12/21/2018)
Really big and dense with caramelized sugar notes surrounding baked apples and pears. Has some acidity to keep the shape together. Very nice and digestible was to finish a meal with some excellent Stilton. (92 points)
1996 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (12/21/2018)
To me, this is fully mature and in a perfect drinking window. Classically proportioned with age appropriate nebbiolo aromas and flavors. What struck me on the nose was the complexity of the non-fruit and floral notes, it would be foolish to try to pick them out. In comparison to the Barolos we had next to it, you can really see the different in weight and shape. (93 points)
1996 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/21/2018)
This was an emotional choice for the evening in the year that Dominico passed away. I had several memorable visits with him over the years and he was unceasingly generous and willing to entertain discussions about his approach to making Barolo. I'll admit, several times I've feared for the future of this wine given the modern elevage but couldn't bear to part with it due to the memories of the trip when I tasted it from barrel. Anyway, it seems to have absorbed the wood, to my surprise. It also has shed the sense of blockiness that pervades modernist Barolo. The palate was svelte and the tannins harmoniuos. There was more fruit than in the Brovia, but that could be Monforte vs Serralunga. A really beautiful and complex bottle of wine, both sensuous and compelling. I guess he was right after all. (94 points)
1996 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Ca'mia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/21/2018)
Of the 1996 Langhe wines tonight, this was the youngest showing, not surprisingly. That being said, it is in a window of drinkability, I just think it could get better. You feel the structure the most here. There are also more brown notes. By that I mean leather, baking spices, tree bark, all sorts of stuff. This shows less floral notes than the other wines, but does pack a decent bit of fruit. I think this would suit the right dishes just fine now but may come together even better in 2-3 more years. Close enough to swing away if you want. (93 points)
2015 Eric Texier Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape (12/21/2018)
We didn't do this bottle justice. I opened it for a dish it didn't work with and then re-corked. We drank the rest kind of as a cocktail wine with finger foods the next day before a dinner party. It was delicious, as always, I just didn't pay much attention and then when I went back, it was gone, even from magnum. In my experience, this is an excellent wine, I feel bad I didn't give it the attention it deserved.
2016 Immich-Batterieberg Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (12/19/2018)
The color surprised me as it had a burnished gold tint to it whereas I expected something lighter. This doesn't translate into heaviness on the palate where the wine is graceful and svelte. There is ample richness which is being kept in check by the structure and a bit of sweetness (the label doesn't indicate what amount) such that everything fits together in a sort of symmetry. I'm not sure that I'm conveying how much I liked this wine. My only conundrum with wines like this is what to do with them at the table. Whatever else, Gernot is making smashing wines. (93 points)
2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/18/2018)
OK, it may be time to slow down on this but it is such an excellent wine, it's hard to stop. This is how I end up with no aged bottles in the cellar. (92 points)
2017 Montenidoli Canaiuolo Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (12/18/2018)
Last bottle of our house rosé from this year. Pale salmon color and a nose that starts off herby and savory. It takes a few minutes for the sour cherry type fruit to start to emerge. This is always a good choice and is great at the table. I bet it might age in interesting ways as well, but I've never tried that. (90 points)
2006 Domaine Pavelot (Jean-Marc et Hugues) Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Vergelesses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (12/17/2018)
Very well mannered but fading wine. Plenty of sous bois and dried fruit and flowers. Structure has all melted away and you can see a bit of bricking at the edges. Not falling off a cliff, but drink up. (88 points)
2012 Ghostwriter Pinot Noir Belle Farms - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz County (12/17/2018)
A weird, clenched showing for this wine and not consistent with other experiences. Not flawed, just not friendly. (89 points)
2005 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin en Champs - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (12/17/2018)
I'm glad I seem to be the only one who likes Geantet wines. There is a real sense of old vine sap and density to the wine which is lifted by lively acidity and fresh fruit smashed on stones. Plenty of structure remains, but this is in that first sweet spot where the fruit is still driving and the structure has started to fall back. The fruit is the focus here, but there is that Gevrey animal-mineral-dark earth thing and a leafy woodsiness. Wish this wasn't my last bottle. (92 points)
2015 Ch“teau Génot-Boulanger Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Clos du Chapitre - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru (12/17/2018)
Hmmm, when we used this wine at a wine dinner in the beginning of the year it showed really well. Not anymore, this bad boy is shut down. It's reduced upon opening and even after a couple hours it is still fairly structured. This is the first vintage I've had of this wine so I'll be interested to mark its progress. Check back in 5-7 years, I think, maybe longer. (90 points)
2015 Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Vinothekfüllung - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (12/15/2018)
OK, this is way too young. Dense, coiled fruit. I was hoping it would be more open, but no such luck. I'll wait a few years before I try another, but I imagine that it'll take longer to peak and could last forever. (91 points)
2014 Domaine Pierre Guillemot Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Serpentières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru (12/14/2018)
Um, this was a mistake to open, especially a magnum. I had read somewhere that Guillemot's 2014s were surprisingly open. Not this one. Everything you'd want but backward and sullen. Try again in 3-5 years from 750. (88 points)
2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/12/2018)
Same as it previous bottles. Delicious. (92 points)
2011 Marie-Noëlle Ledru Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée du Goulté Blanc de Noirs Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (12/11/2018)
The density and power of this wine always amazes, even in a difficult year like 2011. Unlike other vintages, this is quite approachable right now. Real vinosity to this with the pinot fruit dominating other notes. Wish it wasn't so hard to find. (93 points)
1980 Penfolds Grange - Australia, South Australia (12/10/2018)
Out of magnum for Steph's birthday at Racines. Lot's of vanilla oak on the nose to go with not quite jammy but not quite not dark fruits. Completely resolved on the palate where the fruit is complemented by spice, more wood notes and a bit of saddle leather. This seems like a wine that could stay in this spot for another couple of decades. I'll keep an eye out for other bottles as 1980 is a difficult vintage to find good wines and this was very good. On a side note, I was bummed that it didn't make the Racines Insta feed. (93 points)
2009 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Ghemme Collis Carellae - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Ghemme (12/6/2018)
Other bottles have showed a bit of brett or reduction (sometimes, I can't differentiate the two) but this bottle was clean and sappy. That perfectly lifted cherry scent that makes nebbiolo so beguiling with floral and bramble notes laced through it. Not terribly tannic and with good acid balance. Great now and should continue to build on this for a good while. I don't imagine this will make old bones but I wouldn't want it to anyway. (93 points)
2009 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (12/6/2018)
Wow! I really, really liked this wine. I haven't been following Collier after not being impressed about 10 years ago but a bottle with Matthieu Baudry (on his insistence) this Spring was revelatory. This wine has it all. Dense chenin fruit propped by minerals and acid but with a few years of age it has all come together. This is a round package of a wine and I'm not sure whether that's due to having some age or the vintage itself. I cleaned out Max in his yearly sale and I imagine that these bottles, like many chenin, may be immortal. There is so much material here. Looking forward to following this and getting more wines from Antoine. I'd like to meet this guy. (94 points)
2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/5/2018)
Same as it previous bottles. Delicious. (92 points)
2012 Ceritas Chardonnay Heintz Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (12/5/2018)
Maybe the best CA chardonnay I've had this year. There is a real sense of density and a spine of minerals to the wine that cleans and refreshes the palate and makes you thirst for more. Of the Ceritas chardonnays, this has the most exotic profile. A great blend of yellow fruits and minerals. This may continue to improve in the cellar but is in a great spot now. (94 points)
2015 Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur L'Insolite - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (12/5/2018)
Bracing and chalky with the fruit more in the back and in reserve than I expected given the warm vintage. Should be better in a couple of years, but certainly fun to drink now and great at the table. I really am impressed by this current iteration of Thierry Germain, especially the whites. (91 points)
2014 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône-Brézème (12/4/2018)
A fresh, pretty version of this wine, which is exactly how Eric wants it. Savory notes wrap around the syrah fruit with all sort sof other scents including herbs and a hint of smoke. The way it all fits together makes for easy drinking. We had this without food. It doesn't need any more time and I'll be drinking our remaining bottles over the next couple of years. (90 points)
2016 Davide Carlone Croatina Colline Novaresi - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Colline Novaresi (12/4/2018)
You really shouldn't drink this without food. It's a blocky wine with some fruit that tastes like purple paste in the way that mondeuse shows fruit. I've had this wine before so I feel like a dummy for having it solo. (88 points)
2012 Colombera & Garella Lessona Pizzaguerra - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Lessona (12/3/2018)
Within a week of the last bottle and while the notes are mostly the same, I found this bottle a bit deeper and more resonant. Really starting to shine. I have no idea what the aging curve will be on these wines, I don't think anyone does. I'll save at least a bottle for 10 years or so but it'll be tough given how well this is showing now. (93 points)
2006 Antoniolo Gattinara San Francesco - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara (12/3/2018)
Similar showing to the Castelle but maybe a bit darker in its profile, both in fruit and earth. I really like the way these are showing now. They are in that first sweet spot for me when the structure has started to resolve but the fruit is still juicy. This should last for a couple decades and when you drink it will be driven by personal preference. (92 points)
2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/2/2018)
Same as it previous bottles. Delicious. (92 points)
NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée No. 736 - France, Champagne (12/2/2018)
Last bottle from this case and it was as lovely as the rest. I do wish that it had been cared for before it got to me. I'd love to see how well stored bottles show in comparison given how good this was. (92 points)
2015 Philippe Pacalet Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (12/2/2018)
Sappy cherry and berry fruit with notes of earth and some spice. No oak notes but there is a woodland scent to it, if that makes any sense. Too bad these are so expensive because having Burgundy that is so delicious and drinkable this young is such a gift. I think these will keep and spread out a bit, but who cares? (91 points)
2013 Villa S. Anna Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (12/1/2018)
We've been through about a case of this and there are only a few bottles left in the house. For me, it shows an archetype profile for sangiovese. Some earth and leather wrapped around sour and black cherry fruit all draped over a structure that is firm but not aggressive. Enough tannin and acid to cut through rich dishes but not so much structure as to overpower lighter foods. Really versatile at the table, which is exactly what it should be. I like it now, but it is sure to do well for 5-7 more years, maybe longer. (91 points)
2009 Rhys Pinot Noir Skyline Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (12/1/2018)
Well made and mannered wine, just boring. (89 points)
