Fleuries

K

Keith Levenberg

Keith Levenberg
Can't find the thread where I posted recent notes on the 2009 3.14 and Lapierre MMIX, but consider this a sequel as I decided to check in on a couple more of the vintage's special cuvees

Clos de la Roilette 2009 Fleurie Cuvee Tardive
My first taste of this since the time of release, and it hasn't aged much. It's not that it tastes the same but it still tastes like a wine that's fresh out of the gate, with that crunchy gamay fruit and juicy thirst-quenchiness, finishing with some crushed rock on the back end. Maybe it's a little more angular and a less silky than it was, as though it shed a little '09 flesh but the fruit at the core stayed in suspended animation. This has more of what I think of as a 2010 vintage profile than 2009.

Yvon Metras 2009 Fleurie l'Ultime
Pretty similar in the way it's developed to the Tardive - the fruit is juicy and crunchy and fresh as a daisy. That's even more of a surprise on this bottle than it was on the Tardive though, because on release this was gamy and funky and earthy and now there's none of that; the primary fruit is front and center. It does seem to have another layer of stuffing, though, along with some thick tannin that doesn't dry out the wine all that much but does give it a more challenging, grittier texture.
 
Tannin and Metras in the same sentence? I don't think I would ever use that description in any Metras I've had, including the Ultime. They've always been light to me.
 
Within the topic of 2009 Fleury, has anyone had the opportunity to revisit Chermette's 2009 Les Garants or Poncié recently? Preferably both, as 2009 was the only vintage in memory in which I preferred Garants despite its slight woody polish, and actually did not buy the latter at all. Poncié was all fine and dandy when tasted on release, unless you didn't have to catch the train and stayed long enough to note that the finish was structurally (rather than flavor-wise although you could make that argument as well) compromised by the ripeness/softness axis of evil. I didn't go back as there was too much exciting 09 Beaujolais to begin with, and I did not need an excuse to buy another one. Has time proven me wrong? Les Garants turned out fine, if not a Fleury to tell your grandkids about.
 
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
Within the topic of 2009 Fleury, has anyone had the opportunity to revisit Chermette's 2009 Les Garants or Poncié recently? Preferably both, as 2009 was the only vintage in memory in which I preferred Garants despite its slight woody polish, and actually did not buy the latter at all. Poncié was all fine and dandy when tasted on release, unless you didn't have to catch the train and stayed long enough to note that the finish was structurally (rather than flavor-wise although you could make that argument as well) compromised by the ripeness/softness axis of evil. I didn't go back as there was too much exciting 09 Beaujolais to begin with, and I did not need an excuse to buy another one. Has time proven me wrong? Les Garants turned out fine, if not a Fleury to tell your grandkids about.
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On CT, you can find notes from both Salil and myself on the Poncié. I didn't buy too many '09s as they deviated too far from my Platonic ideal of Gamay so I don't have proper referents to gauge whether your initial impression is wrong.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:
On CT, you can find notes from both Salil and myself on the Poncié. I didn't buy too many '09s as they deviated too far from my Platonic ideal of Gamay so I don't have proper referents to gauge whether your initial impression is wrong.

Mark Lipton
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Thank you, now I know what the problem is. Every time I get a d'Artagnan Moulard dark breast, I go to the Rhone!
 
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
originally posted by MLipton:
On CT, you can find notes from both Salil and myself on the Poncié. I didn't buy too many '09s as they deviated too far from my Platonic ideal of Gamay so I don't have proper referents to gauge whether your initial impression is wrong.

Mark Lipton
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Thank you, now I know what the problem is. Every time I get a d'Artagnan Moulard dark breast, I go to the Rhone!
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I am terribly conflicted about the best pairing with (domesticted) duck breast. My preferred go-to for it is something a bit meatier than Gamay (or even PN), so I often look Rhone-ward as well. But some might say that '09 Beaujolais is already veering toward the Rhone...

Mark Lipton
 
I'm no expert, but after working with Gamay for a bit, I feel like I'm starting to get a feel for what it will do in the sites where we get grapes, and recently, I've (at last) begun to get fairly excited about our 2017 Gamay; haven't had it with duck breast yet, but I will, first opportunity! If I'm being too shameless, I hope I'll be forgiven.
 
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
Within the topic of 2009 Fleury, has anyone had the opportunity to revisit Chermette's 2009 Les Garants or Poncié recently? Preferably both, as 2009 was the only vintage in memory in which I preferred Garants despite its slight woody polish, and actually did not buy the latter at all. Poncié was all fine and dandy when tasted on release, unless you didn't have to catch the train and stayed long enough to note that the finish was structurally (rather than flavor-wise although you could make that argument as well) compromised by the ripeness/softness axis of evil. I didn't go back as there was too much exciting 09 Beaujolais to begin with, and I did not need an excuse to buy another one. Has time proven me wrong? Les Garants turned out fine, if not a Fleury to tell your grandkids about.
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I last opened an 09 Garants in 2016; liked it - I think I've had another since, which I liked better, but no notes. I'm generally a fan of this wine and have never noticed much wood - but I'm not especially sensitive to wood flavors. I think these grapes come from a section of Fleurie that, previously, was classified Moulin-à-Vent, akin to Roilette's parcels. A Trois Roches in 2018 was also very good.

I haven't cared much for the Poncié, which is way ahead of the Garants in terms of gloss and polish, in my book.
 
I am drinking the 2009 Vissoux Garants now and it is an absolute knockout. Easily the best of the 2009s I've had within the last few years.
 
Anyone tasted a 2009 Coudert regular recently?
Jim H kindly donated one to me after I professed my profound dislike of 2009 Beaujolais, this was shortly after those wines hit the shelves. IIRC he found the Coudert to be one of the more balanced examples.

Foillard Cote du Py was the wine that eventually brought me around, if not on 2009 then at least for some examples. Hated it on release, love it now. I similarly recoiled from the 2009s from Vissoux back then, wonder how I would find them now.

The most freakshow 2009 of all that I recall was the Cuvee Marcel Lapierre. I don't believe this wine will ever transform into a beverage that I enjoy.

I eventually acquired some 2009 Tardive and Griffe but have not tasted, and have no plans to do so for awhile.
 
originally posted by slaton:

The most freakshow 2009 of all that I recall was the Cuvee Marcel Lapierre. I have a hard time imagining that this wine will ever transform into a beverage that I enjoy.
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I still have one of those. Giving it a good long time in the cellar.
 
originally posted by Keith Levenberg:
I'm not sure the MMIX will ever be good, and I was never a naysayer on the vintage in general.
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Neither am I but I'm sort of the opinion that the only thing that might help is a good long rest in the cellar.
 
originally posted by slaton:
Anyone tasted a 2009 Coudert regular recently?
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Sorry to say, but I opened a bottle of the 09 regular in December and was a bit underwhelmed. No sense of being semi-carbonic, just straight Gamay, with a lactic note that I found off-putting, and not enough acidity zip to make up for it. Where's a touch of v.a. when you need it? Just kidding.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by slaton:
Anyone tasted a 2009 Coudert regular recently?
Click to expand...

Sorry to say, but I opened a bottle of the 09 regular in December and was a bit underwhelmed. No sense of being semi-carbonic, just straight Gamay, with a lactic note that I found off-putting, and not enough acidity zip to make up for it. Where's a touch of v.a. when you need it? Just kidding.
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Gotta do an in-glass blend with the Musar.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
a lactic note that I found off-putting, and not enough acidity zip
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Now you are reminding me why I hated the 2009s in the first place!

I also found a tutti-frutti, Hawaiian Punch aspect to the fruit in many of the wines I tasted.
I'm still fascinated that Foillard CdP turned a corner from this, to deliciousness.

I recall Keith being a big proponent of these wines on release, which baffled me as my palate generally aligns with his otherwise. So it's interesting to me that we've both since moderated our positions somewhat on the 2009s. Or at least, that's how I'm reading it.
 
I was definitely a big proponent. I still think they'll come around, but patience is needed. I am guessing 6-7 years.
 
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