TN: Brad Dinner (March 12, 2019)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Brad, Victor, Jay, Arnold, Jeff

It's Tuesday and just a few of us attend a little dinner at Brad's. He makes his excellent 'Spring' starter plate -- roasted asparagus, poached shrimp, and sous-vide egg on a bed of miso butter -- and a schissel of a 'Winter' favorite, hearty beef stew.

Everyone's in a different mood tonight... Victor is playful (new granddaughter), Brad and Arnold are subdued (parental woes), though Jay and I offer the usual sparkling, um, er, kvetching.

But the food is yummy and conversation is real. For example, when Brad offered only still water but no sparkling, Victor chided him, and then:
        Brad: "This is not a classy place."
        Victor: "I never thought it was."

Beverage call!:

Henriot 1995 Champagne Brut "Cuvee des Chanteleurs" - 55% chardonnay / 45% pinot noir, minerally, scratchy, yet rather ripe for all that, good fizz, modest lees, gorgeous really; provocative in this house, however, because Brad is not a champers fan; as we're gulping it down we also start to wonder whether we should keep some Henriot for a dessert of "Oh Henry!" bars... "That would be a surprise ending!" -Jay

Muga 2001 Rioja Reserva - dark earth, red berry (but not at all sweet), a haunting note of roses, a tad of stinging wood yet but rather beautiful

Ch. La Tour Haut Brion 1989 Graves - potent tobacco nose but, behind that, there is a suave cran-raspberry jam palate, textbook Bordeaux and lovely; Victor says this is no longer made (I confirmed afterward that 2005 was the last vintage and the fruit now goes into the second wine at La Mission Haut Brion)

Trimbach 2001 Riesling "Cuvée Frederic Emile" - musty, flawed; a while later, it shows corked

Balthazar 2005 Cornas "Chaillot" - blackberries tinged with mineral dust, very sturdy and potent, a long future for this one

Huet 1996 Vouvray Moelleux "1ere Trie" "Clos de Bourg" - very pretty, lanolin and other indications of rich texture, no wax or wool; as Brad says, there have been better bottles but this was no slouch

--

Two days later: the Balthazar has eased-up a bit but also now has a medicinal edge to it, while the La Tour Haut Brion is subsiding into sour mash and other old/out-of-balance flavors.
 
There is a lot of uncertain and now dated information about what happens with the grapes formerly used to make La Tour Haut Brion. (Another lost Bordeaux that i hope one day is made again.) The Dillon family did some large-scale replanting after it purchased the estate in 1983. I believe but can’t verify that the replanting occurred in the first half of the 90s but possibly earlier - does anyone know? Gilman might know or have memorialized it somewhere.

Given the passage of time, I would not be surprised if the majority of the best grapes from LTHB now go into La Miss, not into second wine La Chappelle. But it’s just a guess.
 
Thanks for the write-up, Jeff. Glad everyone could make it.

But the food is yummy and conversation is real. For example, when Brad offered only still water but no sparkling, Victor chided him, and then:
        Brad: "This is not a classy place."
        Victor: "I never thought it was."

Actually, I offered still or sparkling and everyone said still. I believe the classy comment came when I told folks to keep their silverware.

Henriot 1995 Champagne Brut "Cuvee des Chanteleurs" - 55% chardonnay / 45% pinot noir, minerally, scratchy, yet rather ripe for all that, good fizz, modest lees, gorgeous really; provocative in this house, however, because Brad is not a champers fan; as we're gulping it down we also start to wonder whether we should keep some Henriot for a dessert of "Oh Henry!" bars... "That would be a surprise ending!" -Jay

Quite pleasant with nicely ripe fruit and it worked well with the first dish. However, Victor violated my "no Champagne in my house except on NYE" rule.

Muga 2001 Rioja Reserva - dark earth, red berry (but not at all sweet), a haunting note of roses, a tad of stinging wood yet but rather beautiful

Found this rather ho hum. Stills needs time to integrate the wood, but the profile is rather unexciting.

Ch. La Tour Haut Brion 1989 Graves - potent tobacco nose but, behind that, there is a suave cran-raspberry jam palate, textbook Bordeaux and lovely; Victor says this is no longer made (I confirmed afterward that 2005 was the last vintage and the fruit now goes into the second wine at La Mission Haut Brion)

A classic claret that was full of Graves earth and thoroughly satisfying. Getting to Jayson's point, I grabbed the wrong name, saying Delas family instead of Dillon, but at dinner we had had the conversation about when the wine started to suffer and it was after the Dillons purchased the estate in '83, as Jayson said.

Trimbach 2001 Riesling "Cuvée Frederic Emile" - musty, flawed; a while later, it shows corked

Uh, some of us said it was corked when we poured it. It just became more obvious with air.

Balthazar 2005 Cornas "Chaillot" - blackberries tinged with mineral dust, very sturdy and potent, a long future for this one

Quite lovely, if a bit polished. Still needs more time, but this matched nicely with the beef stew.

Huet 1996 Vouvray Moelleux "1ere Trie" "Clos de Bourg" - very pretty, lanolin and other indications of rich texture, no wax or wool; as Brad says, there have been better bottles but this was no slouch

Yep. Very enjoyable, though not hitting all the high notes and it lacked some of the razor's edge acidic zip that many bottles show.

Some pics:

The group.
The_group-3.jpg
The wine.
The_wine.jpg
Roasted asparagus with miso butter, sauteed shrimp and sous vide egg.
Roasted_asparagus_with_shrimp_and_sous_vide_egg.jpg
Classic beef stew.
Beef_stew.jpg
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
1995 Mikasa. Unfortunately, getting long in the tooth. Glaze is starting to crack on some dishes and chips are accumulating.
Hoo ha. It is a classy place. My day-to-day dishes are stoneware I bought from a neighbor in the 1980s; the nice stuff is from Fishs Eddy.
 
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