2009 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (2/8/2019)
Consistent with previous notes, I'm going to have to be careful with this wine because I might drink all of my bottles in a year if I'm not careful. (94 points)
2012 Ceritas Chardonnay Heintz Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (2/8/2019)
Another great showing for this, although this bottle was not quite as dramatic as the last one and it may have suffered a bit in comparison to the Collier. Yellow fruits and minerals abound, but it shows less of that Heintz exoticism, again maybe because of the direct comparison to the Collier. Anyhow, Ceritas is tops for me. (92 points)
2010 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (2/8/2019)
WOW! What a sculpted, intense, perfectly crystalline nose. The purity of fruit and minerals is staggering. Not really anywhere near ready or open. The palate is quite firm and strict though it opens somewhat on day 2. The fruit is so deep and intense, but is that an illusion of the structure which drives and carries it? It's hard to know what the future holds, but my guess is that this will be thrilling when it comes out of its shell. This seems like Phase III of this wine. There was Phase I which lasted through 2002 showing the potential. Then there was Phase II starting in 2003 when the shift in climate had a dramatic effect on the Loire and Matthieu was taking over. I think that Phase III started in the late 2000s when they started to come to grips with the new climate reality and gained in confidence. I've been saying this for more than a decade, but it bears repeating, this is the cheapest "great wine" in the world. It really is challenging Rougeard (although they are different stylistically), and I don't think that is hyperbole. Considering you can get a case for the cost of a bottle of Bourg, well, figure it out. (92 points)
2009 Domaine Gramenon Côtes du Rhône Ceps Centenaires La Mémé - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (2/9/2019)
The cork was soaked halfway up, another secondary market victim. Oh well. The wine was still very good, because the underlying material is very good, it didn't show the grandeur of the 2005, nor the unabashed potential of the 2014-2016 trio. It still has the effusive berry compote with hints of kirsch, herbs and brown spices. Not much tannic structure, but it doesn't feel lose. I'll bet pristine bottles are really excellent, this one felt robbed of its top gear. (91 points)
2007 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (2/9/2019)
Consistent with prior notes, beautiful Champagne that does so well with food. Good density, structure and balance. The dosage is just right and the yellow fruit, mineral and hints of wood spice fold together perfectly. (94 points)
2011 Le Piane Boca - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Boca (2/9/2019)
My first time with this vintage. Similar plums to compliment the nebbiolo cherry like in other vintages as well as and the baking spice notes. A bit more tannic and distinctly feral than the 2012, though not monstrously either. Very good now but probably needs more air than we gave it. Will age in a positive direction for years. These are great wines. (92 points)
1994 Warre Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto (2/9/2019)
Cork crumbled on opening, a curse of mid-90s wines. Should have used the Durand. Anyway, decanted and served immediately after dinner with cigars. Ruby colored with berry and plum notes to match. The fruit is tending towards the desiccated notes and the nose and palate are taking on more spice nuances. Not particularly tannic or alcoholic, but it is port and there is a hint of brandied fruit. The next day it was even more settled and spice driven. I think this is good now, although it could last much longer. (92 points)
2016 Weiser-Künstler Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (2/10/2019)
What a loyal servant this wine has been. Every bottle has been delicious. Easier and more earthy than other German trocken rieslings we mess around with (especially Falkenstein). These last few bottles were an excellent complement to fried chicken. (90 points)
2016 Weiser-Künstler Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (2/10/2019)
Same as the other bottle. (90 points)
2012 Rhys Pinot Noir San Mateo County - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, San Mateo County (2/10/2019)
This was less interesting than a 2010 magnum from last year. Less going on aromatically and less Lapierre-ness on the palate. Perfectly serviceable pinot noir for a party which is how it was used. That being said, I was hoping for a bit more as it cost over $100 for the mag. (89 points)
2015 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (2/10/2019)
This wine is almost criminally easy to drink. Magnums like this one disappear in the blink of an eye. As much as I like the Kabinetts from Falkenstein, I think I agree with my ITB friend that this is the best wine they make. There is an added gloss and depth to the fruit and while it doesn't have the mouthwatering aspect to the same degree, there is an added stoniness. All of the white pitted fruits, melons and bits of citrus one could want with a firm mineral underpinning and a discrete almost lushness that I think is the mark of the vintage, but by no means is this blowsy. I guess these may age gracefully, but I think that Erich Weber says to drink them within 10 years so who am I to argue. I'll drink mine within 5. (92 points)
1994 Dow Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto (2/10/2019)
More densely fruited than the Warre's with more upside. Not quite there but not far off. Maybe a couple more years until it is right in the zone? It should have a long graceful evolution, for sure. I'd re-load on this if I found it at a good price. Note that the cork deteriorated on opening. I've had this problem with too many mid-90s bottles. (92 points)
2015 Poderi Colla Barbera d'Alba Costa Bruna - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (2/11/2019)
Not as good as previous bottles. The mouthfeel and elements are there, but this seems either reduced or bretty which takes away from how it has shown previously. None of the other bottles had any issues. (87 points)
2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (2/12/2019)
This bottle seemed a bit more closed than my last bottle, but with most of the same mineral and fruit notes. Once it opened it was fragrant and dense on the palate. Really beautiful chardonnay. (92 points)
2015 Ceritas Chardonnay Porter-Bass Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (2/12/2019)
This will one day make an awesome wine if the density becomes beauty and given the track record I've had with these wines I'm sure that will happen, but now is not that time. Re-tasted several times over a week and it didn't budge. Hands off for 3-5 years would be my best guess. (90 points)
2009 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina Riserva Bucerchiale - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina (2/13/2019)
Well I'll be dipped in shit. This is what I had in mind when I bought this lot. Mature enough Chianti with ripe dark cherry enfolded in dusty earth, game and woodland notes. "Punchy" as Steph noted with enough tannin to frame food with the sangiovese acidity. A lovely bottle that encourages me to buy some current release and cellar myself. I don't know how to understand how the first two bottles had soaked corks but this one was fine (not perfect, but good). At $30, this was a very good deal, at $90 for one good bottle out of 3, not so much. (92 points)
2013 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban Blanc Domaine de Pergaud - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban (2/14/2019)
This wine seems to move around a lot for me. It was enjoyable, but maybe a bit too much on the cidery side. I've had other bottles like this one and yet others that don't have that touch of VA. It worked well enough with the food and was pleasant after dinner, just not on par with better bottles. (89 points)
2007 Le Piane Boca - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Boca (2/15/2019)
Another very enjoyable bottle of this, I love how the blend gives these wines a different spirit, a warmth and looseness, that pure nebbiolo wines don't have. It manifests itself as spice and earthen bass notes to the nebbiolo cherry. This bottle was opened about 30 minutes before dinner and enjoyed over the course of the meal. Corks are stained halway up, so this perfectly mature bottle may not be representative of bottles with a better history. (92 points)
2012 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (2/16/2019)
Beautiful Chaignots nose which brings in some Vosne floral notes to compliment the rugged fruit and earthy notes. Hints of spices on the nose and the wood hasn't yet fully integrated. After having such a great bottle of 2012 Geantet recently, I thought what the hell. I'm also looking to drink more of my Burgundies sooner after great experiences last year. This will be even better in a few years when all of the elements integrate, but as it opened over dinner it was great on the night as well. It is definitely a ripe vintage, but not blowsy or overblown for me. (92 points)
2011 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche di Castiglione - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (2/16/2019)
Wow! This was fantastic! Nose of deep cherry fruit with laced minerals and some earth and anise notes. Really great purity and delineation despite the warmth of the year. What stood out to me was the quality of the tannins and overall mouthfeel. There was plenty of structure, but it never seemed to get in the way and lifted everything around it. Great nose and inner mouth perfume. It must be showings like this that keep the Piedmontese drinking their Barolo so young. Surely, it'll get better but a great experience today. I opened and decanted off sediment and returned to the bottle about 3 hours before dinner. That seemed to be a sweet spot, though the wine tasted great right when I opened it and never seemed to really shut down. I've also really enjoyed 2011s from Cappellano and Canonica so I'm curious if the Ca'Mia will be as friendly. (94 points)
2013 Eric Texier Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape (2/16/2019)
Another really nice bottle, but wasn't signing the way it was on New Years Eve when it was on fire. All the same elements were there, they were just a bit more subdued. Still, an excellent Chateauneuf. I love the style of wine that Eric is making here. (92 points)
2009 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (2/16/2019)
A bit less generous than the 2007 and more etched but in the same lane. Beautiful nose of fruits and minerals with yeast and the lovely spice notes form the wood. This is such an easy Champagne to drink and love. (94 points)
2014 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (2/16/2019)
Exactly as you would expect a wine 5 years younger than the 2009s we've been enjoying to taste. All the same fruits and floral meadow except much more taught and mineral. Very zippy, with a beautiful interplay between the fruit and acids with the subtlest beeswax sneaking in here and there. I really dig these wines. I expect it to get better and better over the years. (92 points)
2015 Georges Descombes Morgon - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (2/16/2019)
Our last bottle of this, and one that has been quite good to us. While not unscathed by the vintage, it was suitably handled. Briary fruit with flowers and herbs and a spicey sense of the forest. Has been drinking well since about 6 months after release and should continue for another 5 years if you are of a mind to hold it. (90 points)
2015 Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (2/17/2019)
Really lovely bottle that I'm sure will continue to improve. So much more open and showy than the Vinothekfüllung from a few weeks back. Lots of ripe fruits and that vegetal, lentil grüner veltliner nose. Good acid structure, and a bite that seemed almost a little tannic, keeps everything in shape. Rich and mouth coating. It may be that these wines can age for decades, but this can be open now or anytime and be thoroughly enjoyed. (93 points)
2009 Castello dei Rampolla Sammarco Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (2/17/2019)
This was classy, I suppose but with a bit of cabernet herbaceousness. Good enough concentration and balance, just a bit boring. It's been a while since I've had a vintage of this wine and I remember more sangiovese character to it. Drinks fine now, but I'll wait a couple of years to see if it gains any complexity. (89 points)
2013 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Colline Novaresi Agamium - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Colline Novaresi (2/18/2019)
Much better than the last bottle. Pretty rose and cherry notes, slight in body and without tannin or guile. Pleasant quaffing wine that would get overpowered by rich foods, but fun to drink on its own or with light snacks. Drink ASAP, IMO. (87 points)
2014 Georges Descombes Morgon Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (2/18/2019)
Got the "baby diaper" on this and then re-tasting after a few days in the fridge got some "mouse". Not really sure what is going on. I generally go through at least a case of this every vintage and didn't notice this in my first bottle from this case.
2016 Ferme de la Sansonnière (Mark Angeli) La Lune - France, Vin de France (2/18/2019)
Consistent with previous notes. A bottle of joy. The only sadness here is that it was my last bottle. (91 points)
2013 Ghostwriter Cabernet Sauvignon Bates Ranch - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz County (2/19/2019)
This wine is aging backwards. Much less open than other bottles I've had. It's definitely Californian, but not like anything else currently on the market. Dense, savory with almost pastey tannin. Great lift from the acid and the shape is awesome and it washes down the steak, but it doesn't have the visceral fruit of previous bottles. Maybe it was a root day or something, still very good though. Should make relatively old bones. (91 points)
2013 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (2/21/2019)
This was a bit shy on the first day open with none of the flamboyance I associate with Bongran and with more minerals and structure. A couple days later it had filled out and become that signature Bongran. I would say a couple of years will get it to a traditional Bongran place, but if you want a more mineral version dip in now and check it out. (92 points)
2016 I Custodi Etna Antè - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC (2/21/2019)
Fine. Nice floral and yellow/green fruit. Carricante character but without the drive I like in my favorite examples. I would be happy to drink this at a restaurant at the right price. (89 points)
2009 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (2/22/2019)
Immediately upon opening there was a deep fruit and mineral spine with wisps of flowers, herbs, and forest vibes. Then about 20 minutes later it figured out it was open and was pissed. Kicked sand in my face and told me to fuck off. Closed down tight and never opened up again. Not even for days. Every now and then it would show a glimpse of what was underneath. Rarely do I ever have Burgundies this shut down except for...oh right...his wife's. Another 5 years might shed some grumpiness. (90 points)
2011 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Bourgogne Les Bons B“tons - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (2/22/2019)
There were some pretty leafy and sous bois notes going on with the dried fruit, but it was a bit shrill on the palate for what was needed. Steph finished the bottle the next day and pronounced it lovely. Drink up, I would say. (87 points)
2004 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (2/23/2019)
I've been lucky enough to have this particular Rougeard at least a dozen times, probably more, over it's lifetime and it has never steered me wrong. As always, a very classic version with the herbal pyrazines around the bright red pitted fruits. This bottle was a bit grippier than I remember it and a bit more muted on the nose. What sets Rougeard apart, IMO, is the sense of depth that the wines bring. It's fine to open now, but there is no rush. I think it is right on the cusp of utter silkiness. (92 points)
2005 Domaine du Ch“teau de Chorey (Germain) Beaune 1er Cru Vignes Franches Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru (2/23/2019)
A bit of reduction that took a bit of time to blow off. I don't remember the last time I had this wine from any vintage. It no longer exists and I don't know in whose hands these vines ended up. A bit muddy, in truth, but with a lot of Beaune character and length. Saw some pretty toasty wood at some point, but that is integrating. I think a few more years or more air than we were able to give it would help it show better, not that it wasn't very good. In fact, I found it quite charming in a four-square sort of way. (90 points)
2013 Umberto Fracassi Barolo Mantoetto - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (2/23/2019)
Wow! I've never had anything quite like this, which makes sense as it is the only Barolo made in Cherasco. Really open and generous, plenty of classic cherry but in place of the typical flowers, it has something a bit more lilac and some mint. Really fascinating. I loved the mouthfeel and the way the gentle tannin framed the fruit and allowed all the other nuances to swirl around. I'll be grabbing a few more of these just to see where it goes. It's delightful now, so try it. I'm guessing about age, but it seems like the balance will carry it, though I wouldn't think it would be a long-haul sort of wine. It's stuff like this that keeps wine as such a rewarding hobby. (93 points)
2014 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (2/25/2019)
Another lovely bottle. Right now I favor the 2015 slightly for its exuberance, but this may end up being more complex and interesting down the line. (91 points)
2010 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (2/26/2019)
Others may like this more, I still fine the wine a bit blocky. Plenty of pedigree and I really liek the complexity of the nose with all the herbs and earthy savory notes around the dark red fruits. It's just structurally it lacks a silken togetherness that I really want. Maybe it's too young and this will all sort out, or maybe there won't be enough fruit to come together with the structure in the exact manner I'm looking for. I have one more bottle that I'm going to wait several years before opening. Maybe, unless I change my mind and have a big hunk of meat. (91 points)
2016 Monteraponi Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (2/26/2019)
Opened this right after the Felsina and it was an interesting contrast. This was silky and lithe, but with plenty of fruit and sangiovese power. We've been through quite a few of these and probably should let some age, but it is so delicious, that's a big ask. (92 points)
Consistent with previous notes, I'm going to have to be careful with this wine because I might drink all of my bottles in a year if I'm not careful. (94 points)
2012 Ceritas Chardonnay Heintz Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (2/8/2019)
Another great showing for this, although this bottle was not quite as dramatic as the last one and it may have suffered a bit in comparison to the Collier. Yellow fruits and minerals abound, but it shows less of that Heintz exoticism, again maybe because of the direct comparison to the Collier. Anyhow, Ceritas is tops for me. (92 points)
2010 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (2/8/2019)
WOW! What a sculpted, intense, perfectly crystalline nose. The purity of fruit and minerals is staggering. Not really anywhere near ready or open. The palate is quite firm and strict though it opens somewhat on day 2. The fruit is so deep and intense, but is that an illusion of the structure which drives and carries it? It's hard to know what the future holds, but my guess is that this will be thrilling when it comes out of its shell. This seems like Phase III of this wine. There was Phase I which lasted through 2002 showing the potential. Then there was Phase II starting in 2003 when the shift in climate had a dramatic effect on the Loire and Matthieu was taking over. I think that Phase III started in the late 2000s when they started to come to grips with the new climate reality and gained in confidence. I've been saying this for more than a decade, but it bears repeating, this is the cheapest "great wine" in the world. It really is challenging Rougeard (although they are different stylistically), and I don't think that is hyperbole. Considering you can get a case for the cost of a bottle of Bourg, well, figure it out. (92 points)
2009 Domaine Gramenon Côtes du Rhône Ceps Centenaires La Mémé - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (2/9/2019)
The cork was soaked halfway up, another secondary market victim. Oh well. The wine was still very good, because the underlying material is very good, it didn't show the grandeur of the 2005, nor the unabashed potential of the 2014-2016 trio. It still has the effusive berry compote with hints of kirsch, herbs and brown spices. Not much tannic structure, but it doesn't feel lose. I'll bet pristine bottles are really excellent, this one felt robbed of its top gear. (91 points)
2007 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (2/9/2019)
Consistent with prior notes, beautiful Champagne that does so well with food. Good density, structure and balance. The dosage is just right and the yellow fruit, mineral and hints of wood spice fold together perfectly. (94 points)
2011 Le Piane Boca - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Boca (2/9/2019)
My first time with this vintage. Similar plums to compliment the nebbiolo cherry like in other vintages as well as and the baking spice notes. A bit more tannic and distinctly feral than the 2012, though not monstrously either. Very good now but probably needs more air than we gave it. Will age in a positive direction for years. These are great wines. (92 points)
1994 Warre Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto (2/9/2019)
Cork crumbled on opening, a curse of mid-90s wines. Should have used the Durand. Anyway, decanted and served immediately after dinner with cigars. Ruby colored with berry and plum notes to match. The fruit is tending towards the desiccated notes and the nose and palate are taking on more spice nuances. Not particularly tannic or alcoholic, but it is port and there is a hint of brandied fruit. The next day it was even more settled and spice driven. I think this is good now, although it could last much longer. (92 points)
2016 Weiser-Künstler Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (2/10/2019)
What a loyal servant this wine has been. Every bottle has been delicious. Easier and more earthy than other German trocken rieslings we mess around with (especially Falkenstein). These last few bottles were an excellent complement to fried chicken. (90 points)
2016 Weiser-Künstler Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (2/10/2019)
Same as the other bottle. (90 points)
2012 Rhys Pinot Noir San Mateo County - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, San Mateo County (2/10/2019)
This was less interesting than a 2010 magnum from last year. Less going on aromatically and less Lapierre-ness on the palate. Perfectly serviceable pinot noir for a party which is how it was used. That being said, I was hoping for a bit more as it cost over $100 for the mag. (89 points)
2015 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (2/10/2019)
This wine is almost criminally easy to drink. Magnums like this one disappear in the blink of an eye. As much as I like the Kabinetts from Falkenstein, I think I agree with my ITB friend that this is the best wine they make. There is an added gloss and depth to the fruit and while it doesn't have the mouthwatering aspect to the same degree, there is an added stoniness. All of the white pitted fruits, melons and bits of citrus one could want with a firm mineral underpinning and a discrete almost lushness that I think is the mark of the vintage, but by no means is this blowsy. I guess these may age gracefully, but I think that Erich Weber says to drink them within 10 years so who am I to argue. I'll drink mine within 5. (92 points)
1994 Dow Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto (2/10/2019)
More densely fruited than the Warre's with more upside. Not quite there but not far off. Maybe a couple more years until it is right in the zone? It should have a long graceful evolution, for sure. I'd re-load on this if I found it at a good price. Note that the cork deteriorated on opening. I've had this problem with too many mid-90s bottles. (92 points)
2015 Poderi Colla Barbera d'Alba Costa Bruna - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (2/11/2019)
Not as good as previous bottles. The mouthfeel and elements are there, but this seems either reduced or bretty which takes away from how it has shown previously. None of the other bottles had any issues. (87 points)
2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (2/12/2019)
This bottle seemed a bit more closed than my last bottle, but with most of the same mineral and fruit notes. Once it opened it was fragrant and dense on the palate. Really beautiful chardonnay. (92 points)
2015 Ceritas Chardonnay Porter-Bass Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (2/12/2019)
This will one day make an awesome wine if the density becomes beauty and given the track record I've had with these wines I'm sure that will happen, but now is not that time. Re-tasted several times over a week and it didn't budge. Hands off for 3-5 years would be my best guess. (90 points)
2009 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina Riserva Bucerchiale - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina (2/13/2019)
Well I'll be dipped in shit. This is what I had in mind when I bought this lot. Mature enough Chianti with ripe dark cherry enfolded in dusty earth, game and woodland notes. "Punchy" as Steph noted with enough tannin to frame food with the sangiovese acidity. A lovely bottle that encourages me to buy some current release and cellar myself. I don't know how to understand how the first two bottles had soaked corks but this one was fine (not perfect, but good). At $30, this was a very good deal, at $90 for one good bottle out of 3, not so much. (92 points)
2013 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban Blanc Domaine de Pergaud - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban (2/14/2019)
This wine seems to move around a lot for me. It was enjoyable, but maybe a bit too much on the cidery side. I've had other bottles like this one and yet others that don't have that touch of VA. It worked well enough with the food and was pleasant after dinner, just not on par with better bottles. (89 points)
2007 Le Piane Boca - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Boca (2/15/2019)
Another very enjoyable bottle of this, I love how the blend gives these wines a different spirit, a warmth and looseness, that pure nebbiolo wines don't have. It manifests itself as spice and earthen bass notes to the nebbiolo cherry. This bottle was opened about 30 minutes before dinner and enjoyed over the course of the meal. Corks are stained halway up, so this perfectly mature bottle may not be representative of bottles with a better history. (92 points)
2012 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (2/16/2019)
Beautiful Chaignots nose which brings in some Vosne floral notes to compliment the rugged fruit and earthy notes. Hints of spices on the nose and the wood hasn't yet fully integrated. After having such a great bottle of 2012 Geantet recently, I thought what the hell. I'm also looking to drink more of my Burgundies sooner after great experiences last year. This will be even better in a few years when all of the elements integrate, but as it opened over dinner it was great on the night as well. It is definitely a ripe vintage, but not blowsy or overblown for me. (92 points)
2011 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche di Castiglione - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (2/16/2019)
Wow! This was fantastic! Nose of deep cherry fruit with laced minerals and some earth and anise notes. Really great purity and delineation despite the warmth of the year. What stood out to me was the quality of the tannins and overall mouthfeel. There was plenty of structure, but it never seemed to get in the way and lifted everything around it. Great nose and inner mouth perfume. It must be showings like this that keep the Piedmontese drinking their Barolo so young. Surely, it'll get better but a great experience today. I opened and decanted off sediment and returned to the bottle about 3 hours before dinner. That seemed to be a sweet spot, though the wine tasted great right when I opened it and never seemed to really shut down. I've also really enjoyed 2011s from Cappellano and Canonica so I'm curious if the Ca'Mia will be as friendly. (94 points)
2013 Eric Texier Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape (2/16/2019)
Another really nice bottle, but wasn't signing the way it was on New Years Eve when it was on fire. All the same elements were there, they were just a bit more subdued. Still, an excellent Chateauneuf. I love the style of wine that Eric is making here. (92 points)
2009 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (2/16/2019)
A bit less generous than the 2007 and more etched but in the same lane. Beautiful nose of fruits and minerals with yeast and the lovely spice notes form the wood. This is such an easy Champagne to drink and love. (94 points)
2014 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (2/16/2019)
Exactly as you would expect a wine 5 years younger than the 2009s we've been enjoying to taste. All the same fruits and floral meadow except much more taught and mineral. Very zippy, with a beautiful interplay between the fruit and acids with the subtlest beeswax sneaking in here and there. I really dig these wines. I expect it to get better and better over the years. (92 points)
2015 Georges Descombes Morgon - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (2/16/2019)
Our last bottle of this, and one that has been quite good to us. While not unscathed by the vintage, it was suitably handled. Briary fruit with flowers and herbs and a spicey sense of the forest. Has been drinking well since about 6 months after release and should continue for another 5 years if you are of a mind to hold it. (90 points)
2015 Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (2/17/2019)
Really lovely bottle that I'm sure will continue to improve. So much more open and showy than the Vinothekfüllung from a few weeks back. Lots of ripe fruits and that vegetal, lentil grüner veltliner nose. Good acid structure, and a bite that seemed almost a little tannic, keeps everything in shape. Rich and mouth coating. It may be that these wines can age for decades, but this can be open now or anytime and be thoroughly enjoyed. (93 points)
2009 Castello dei Rampolla Sammarco Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (2/17/2019)
This was classy, I suppose but with a bit of cabernet herbaceousness. Good enough concentration and balance, just a bit boring. It's been a while since I've had a vintage of this wine and I remember more sangiovese character to it. Drinks fine now, but I'll wait a couple of years to see if it gains any complexity. (89 points)
2013 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Colline Novaresi Agamium - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Colline Novaresi (2/18/2019)
Much better than the last bottle. Pretty rose and cherry notes, slight in body and without tannin or guile. Pleasant quaffing wine that would get overpowered by rich foods, but fun to drink on its own or with light snacks. Drink ASAP, IMO. (87 points)
2014 Georges Descombes Morgon Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (2/18/2019)
Got the "baby diaper" on this and then re-tasting after a few days in the fridge got some "mouse". Not really sure what is going on. I generally go through at least a case of this every vintage and didn't notice this in my first bottle from this case.
2016 Ferme de la Sansonnière (Mark Angeli) La Lune - France, Vin de France (2/18/2019)
Consistent with previous notes. A bottle of joy. The only sadness here is that it was my last bottle. (91 points)
2013 Ghostwriter Cabernet Sauvignon Bates Ranch - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz County (2/19/2019)
This wine is aging backwards. Much less open than other bottles I've had. It's definitely Californian, but not like anything else currently on the market. Dense, savory with almost pastey tannin. Great lift from the acid and the shape is awesome and it washes down the steak, but it doesn't have the visceral fruit of previous bottles. Maybe it was a root day or something, still very good though. Should make relatively old bones. (91 points)
2013 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (2/21/2019)
This was a bit shy on the first day open with none of the flamboyance I associate with Bongran and with more minerals and structure. A couple days later it had filled out and become that signature Bongran. I would say a couple of years will get it to a traditional Bongran place, but if you want a more mineral version dip in now and check it out. (92 points)
2016 I Custodi Etna Antè - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC (2/21/2019)
Fine. Nice floral and yellow/green fruit. Carricante character but without the drive I like in my favorite examples. I would be happy to drink this at a restaurant at the right price. (89 points)
2009 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (2/22/2019)
Immediately upon opening there was a deep fruit and mineral spine with wisps of flowers, herbs, and forest vibes. Then about 20 minutes later it figured out it was open and was pissed. Kicked sand in my face and told me to fuck off. Closed down tight and never opened up again. Not even for days. Every now and then it would show a glimpse of what was underneath. Rarely do I ever have Burgundies this shut down except for...oh right...his wife's. Another 5 years might shed some grumpiness. (90 points)
2011 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Bourgogne Les Bons B“tons - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (2/22/2019)
There were some pretty leafy and sous bois notes going on with the dried fruit, but it was a bit shrill on the palate for what was needed. Steph finished the bottle the next day and pronounced it lovely. Drink up, I would say. (87 points)
2004 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (2/23/2019)
I've been lucky enough to have this particular Rougeard at least a dozen times, probably more, over it's lifetime and it has never steered me wrong. As always, a very classic version with the herbal pyrazines around the bright red pitted fruits. This bottle was a bit grippier than I remember it and a bit more muted on the nose. What sets Rougeard apart, IMO, is the sense of depth that the wines bring. It's fine to open now, but there is no rush. I think it is right on the cusp of utter silkiness. (92 points)
2005 Domaine du Ch“teau de Chorey (Germain) Beaune 1er Cru Vignes Franches Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru (2/23/2019)
A bit of reduction that took a bit of time to blow off. I don't remember the last time I had this wine from any vintage. It no longer exists and I don't know in whose hands these vines ended up. A bit muddy, in truth, but with a lot of Beaune character and length. Saw some pretty toasty wood at some point, but that is integrating. I think a few more years or more air than we were able to give it would help it show better, not that it wasn't very good. In fact, I found it quite charming in a four-square sort of way. (90 points)
2013 Umberto Fracassi Barolo Mantoetto - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (2/23/2019)
Wow! I've never had anything quite like this, which makes sense as it is the only Barolo made in Cherasco. Really open and generous, plenty of classic cherry but in place of the typical flowers, it has something a bit more lilac and some mint. Really fascinating. I loved the mouthfeel and the way the gentle tannin framed the fruit and allowed all the other nuances to swirl around. I'll be grabbing a few more of these just to see where it goes. It's delightful now, so try it. I'm guessing about age, but it seems like the balance will carry it, though I wouldn't think it would be a long-haul sort of wine. It's stuff like this that keeps wine as such a rewarding hobby. (93 points)
2014 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (2/25/2019)
Another lovely bottle. Right now I favor the 2015 slightly for its exuberance, but this may end up being more complex and interesting down the line. (91 points)
2010 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (2/26/2019)
Others may like this more, I still fine the wine a bit blocky. Plenty of pedigree and I really liek the complexity of the nose with all the herbs and earthy savory notes around the dark red fruits. It's just structurally it lacks a silken togetherness that I really want. Maybe it's too young and this will all sort out, or maybe there won't be enough fruit to come together with the structure in the exact manner I'm looking for. I have one more bottle that I'm going to wait several years before opening. Maybe, unless I change my mind and have a big hunk of meat. (91 points)
2016 Monteraponi Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (2/26/2019)
Opened this right after the Felsina and it was an interesting contrast. This was silky and lithe, but with plenty of fruit and sangiovese power. We've been through quite a few of these and probably should let some age, but it is so delicious, that's a big ask. (92 points)