TN: Josie Comes West... (May 19, 2019)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Manuel+Josie, Don+Melissa, .sasha+Delia, Jay+Arnold, Jayson+Laura, Brad, Jeff

...and brings Manuel with her. She's so nice to him.

Brad's kinda nice to him, too: he called a potluck and the geeks flocked. The wine theme, if there were any way to impose discipline on these flockers, became rather murky as pre-event emails dragged on so people arrived with all sorts of wine in tow. Jay brought Sherry, a known Kane disfavorite, while someone who looked a lot like Don brought no Loire wine of any kind. (No, we aren't 100% sure that was him.)

The groaning Brad board:
- marinated seared pork loins
- white bean, fennel, and tasso stew
- black bean and corn salsa
- heaps of roasted beets and cooked string beans
- prosciutto and "mouse" pate (that's what we were told)
- three cheeses: a cheddar, a triple creme, and an old gouda
- hot and cheesey gougeres
- three containers of Chinese take-out (red-cooked pork belly is wine-friendly but I have no idea what the rest of it was)
- a tray of lemon pie cookies
- a tin full of mini-financiers

The wines were as eclectic as their patrons:

Pinon 2005 Vouvray "Cuvee Tradition" - "Not a wine for the ages" -Don; this is oxidizing, losing its zip, shade was thrown on other 2005s as well, drink up

Pinon 2017 Vouvray "Deronnieres" - this, on the other hand, is young and vivid and yet to unfurl, there is already a hint that it is quite dry and offers a taste of honey

Michel Autran 2016 Vouvray "Les Enfers Tranquilles" - lacks personality at first, but, with some air, lacks personality, sigh

Luneau-Papin 2017 Muscadet "Granite" "Le L d'Or" - flinty, uncompromisingly dry, excellent, vivid, some slight spritz

Chepika 2017 Catawba Pet Nat - inevitably, it was generally held to taste like Kedem White with bubbles, nothing actually foxy about it but nothing much to say for it, either

Dom. Ehrhart 2012 Riesling Herrenweg - this is lovely, just barely sweet, slightly scratchy going down, fascinating

Maximin Grunhauser 1997 Abtsberg Riesling Spatlese - the cork reeks of TCA... as the Bomb Squad is removing it, Brad comes running in to ask what happened and nearly faints from the residual fumes alone... and yet... the wine is pristine, perfect balance of sweet and sour, OMG bottle

Albamar 2017 Albino "Vino Tinto" - a blanc de noir, if you read between the lines; this is zingy and refreshing, lemon-lime profile with enough substance to keep it vinous and not 7-Upish, yum

O. Horiot 2013 Rose de Riceys "En Valingrain" - we've had this a few times recently and this bottle is just fine

La Rioja Alta 2001 Rioja Reserva Especial "Vina Ardanza" - magnum (or should I say, 4x8 ?), DNPIM

Partida Creas 2018 "CX" - the name is an acronym for Cartoixa Vermell, a species of Xarel-lo; this is a cultivar recently permitted in Catalunya; 10.5%, musky nose but then it's all cherries all the time, I am reminded of some COS wines

Clos Roche Blanche 2009 Touraine "Cuvee Cot" - slightly sour at first but really it's all deep blue fruit and leather; an amazing wine

Eminence Road 2012 Pinot Noir "Elizabeth's Vineyard" - Don kept this for 5 years just to see what happens; good balance, still vigorous but without being vicious, but damn if I don't think it's cab franc!

La Tache 2006 Saint-Joseph "Cuvee Badel" - identifiably N. Rhone syrah, STGT sez JLL, pretty wine (but no one in Hermitage or Cote-Rotie needs to worry), definitely in the 2006 style (slightly low acid which pushes the fruit forward), just starting to fade so now's the time

Gonzalez Byass 1966 Oloroso Anada "Finest Dry" - huge flavors, not at all sweet, a little goes a long way, "Layered sort of vanilla finish" -Jayson

Dom. Huet 1952 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Le Mont" - corked, an abysmal shame

Dom. des Petits Quarts 1995 Bonnezeaux "Le Malabe" - another tried-and-true bottling; it's no Vouvray Moelleux (as someone said) but it's lovely, tingly apricots, and some consolation

As always, great fun to see everyone and chat and catch up.
 
Autran was growing by the end and may have been better the next day, but I think I have a preference for the Ciel Rouge bottling.

Some mixed feelings on L D’Or but I liked it. I also think maintaining a slight chill is best for that one.

I thought I was the only one saying the Chepika had the aromatics of a fizzy, better balanced Kedem White Concord Grape Juice. But it was a decent quaff. Price point is a bit high.

Erhart was a little lean and ungenerous, and I probably should have gone back to it.

There were many lovers of the Ardanza, proclaiming its youth. I wasn’t one of them. That’s a lot of American oak to absorb.

The Cot was 2009. Yowzers.

I thought Kay’s Pinot was holding nicely. And varietally identifiable. Cab Franc?

Liked Cuvee Badel. Didn’t sense the fade yet. Not super complex but gluggable in a good way.

Underneath the TCA and in the finish, the 52 Huet had no oxidation. All lemon-quince verbena pure Le Mont. A wow wine that was not meant to be. Massive disappointment, and so generous of Brad to open.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
Autran was growing by the end and may have been better the next day, but I think I have a preference for the Ciel Rouge bottling.

Some mixed feelings on L D’Or but I liked it. I also think maintaining a slight chill is best for that one.

I thought I was the only one saying the Chepika had the aromatics of a fizzy, better balanced Kedem White Concord Grape Juice. But it was a decent quaff. Price point is a bit high.

Erhart was a little lean and ungenerous, and I probably should have gone back to it.

Horiot 2013. I’m pretty sure it won the Thunderbird Prize. Another great bottle. Newbies were kvelling.

There were many lovers of the Ardanza, proclaiming its youth. I wasn’t one of them. That’s a lot of American oak to absorb.

The Cot was 2009. Yowzers.

I thought Kay’s Pinot was holding nicely. And varietally identifiable. Cab Franc?

Liked Cuvee Badel. Didn’t sense the fade yet. Not super complex but gluggable in a good way.

Underneath the TCA and in the finish, the 52 Huet had no oxidation. All lemon-quince verbena pure Le Mont. A wow wine that was not meant to be. Massive disappointment, and so generous of Brad to open.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
I thought I was the only one saying the Chepika had the aromatics of a fizzy, better balanced Kedem White Concord Grape Juice. But it was a decent quaff. Price point is a bit high.
I think you garnered a lot of agreement.

The Cot was 2009. Yowzers.
Slip of the finger. Fixed. Thanks.

I thought Kay’s Pinot was holding nicely. And varietally identifiable. Cab Franc?
How it seemed to me, what can I say?
 
The Eminence Road was eminently gluggable. Simply delicious.

The Ardanza was oak. I mean oaky. Or maybe I was right the first time.

Horiot was beautiful as always.

I liked the crisp and minerally L d'Or a lot .

The St. Joseph was very nice and certainly recognizably N. Rhone.
 
Thanks for the write-up, Jeff. Always great to see Manuel and Josie in town.

My wine of the night was that stellar Grunhauser, which was a complete surprise given the horrendous smelling cork. He really knocked it out of the park in '97. Back around '00 or so, Sasha and I killed a bottle of the '97 Abtsberg Kabinett in about ten minutes while watching a Yankee game on TV because it was so freaking delicious. That remains my record for fastest consumption of a bottle of wine.

Opening a botte of Godineau's Domaine des Petits Quarts always brings a smile to my face. His Coteaux du Layon and Bonnezeaux were such insane values back in the day. I wish Dressner had continued to bring them in despite the sulfur, politics and their being sweet wines.
 
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