TN: Cellar-ish Some More (May 17, 2019)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
This is a thank-you event for customers, essentially a hangout evening with wine. Some of the usual faces are here but also some extraordinarily regular nice people, too.

Customers were allowed to bring wine and, of course, the hard-core did.

Yarra Yering 1998 Dry Red Wine No.1 - magnum, 13.3%, "contains 16.0 standard pours", this is the Bordeaux blend from a famous north-facing hillside down under; my nose is greeted with claustrophobic oak but there really is nice wine underneath that: just-so ripeness, gentle but persistent tannins, and a kiss of VA; very agreeable

P. Cotat 2008 Chavignol Rose - SFJoe told me to put this away for 10 years so I did: the wine is now disco orange, with a nostalgic toot of fruit immediately upon entry then it goes all handbag leather and resin and rye bread; very long, savory, and fascinating

Sesti (Castello di Argiano) 2016 Rosso di Montalcino - lactic on entry and somewhat muted thereafter so not much to report

Frat. Alessandria 2014 Barolo "Monvigliero" - 14.5% but tastes like 16%, there is pretty fruit here and something like marzipan... just don't strike a match

Dom. Monier-Perreol 2017 Saint-Joseph - acidity is good but the wine is anonymous, both Jayson and I doubt we could pick this out as syrah if tasted blind

Lapierre 2009 Morgon - magnum, strangely, both Ira and I had pulled this wine, it is big and rich, lots of nose and palate material but it just isn't exciting to drink

Calissano 1967 Barbaresco Riserva Speciale - amazing color yet, practically ruby; vivid acidity and a strong initial nose of camphor; the tannins are very fine and unobtrusive, the perfume is muted at first but develops over the evening, eventually showing hints of tarragon, cherry, hibiscus, and smoke; probably needs to be opened a few days in advance; great showing for wine in a bottle for half a century

Lucian Boillot 2012 Volnay 1er "Les Brouillards" - yup, that's Burgundy all right

Craft Wine 2015 "Origin", Johan Vyd - Willamette pinot noir, this is really nice for a wine I've never heard of, good acids, good dirt, pretty smellies

Dom. de Villaine 2017 Bouzeron - aligote, of course; well-balanced and well-made and not very substantial

Dom. Pelle 2016 Menetou-Salon "Les Blanchais" - complex and rich, it's a quiet AOC but I'm happy to drink this wine

Pio Cesare 1964 Barolo - moldy

Joseph Dorbon 2014 Arbois "Cuvee des Moyne" VV - I was late getting to this bottle so had only a matchsticky sip

Bruno Dangin NV Cremant de Bourgogne "Cuvee Blanche" - another wine with good shape and raised well but lacks any particular charm, note that others liked this better than I did
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by scottreiner:
The Dorbon wines are delicious. Very traditional. Worth finding. I'm going through my '09s now.

Odd, he doesn't appear in Wink's book.

Interesting. I was able to find two relevant pages: Rosenthal says he was only introduced to Dorbon, by Gahier, in 2016 (Wink's book was published 2014); and Dorbon is mentioned in a travelogue, also from 2016.
 
originally posted by scottreiner:
The Dorbon wines are delicious. Very traditional. Worth finding. I'm going through my '09s now.

Seconded. Closest to a Puffeney-esque style I've found. (And moreso than Les Matheny, who actually worked for Puffeney.)
 
So do you prefer the Cotat with age, or fresh? I've always found it a little too crispy upon release but never dared age one a decade.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
So do you prefer the Cotat with age, or fresh? I've always found it a little too crispy upon release but never dared age one a decade.
Ooh, I get to give the Gallic shrug... they are different wines. The older version is the rarer so I'll give it the nod.
 
originally posted by BJ:
There's a handful of Dorbon's at KL right now.

For Dorbon, check out First the Wine, in LA (affiliated with the Wine Hotel). They have several Dorbon at half retail as part of a pretty great sale.
 
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
originally posted by BJ:
There's a handful of Dorbon's at KL right now.

For Dorbon, check out First the Wine, in LA (affiliated with the Wine Hotel). They have several Dorbon at half retail as part of a pretty great sale.

No shipping to NY:
"First the Wine ships to AK, CA, DC, ID, LA, NE, NV, NH, NM, ND, OR, VA, WV, and WY."
 
That sale is insane, especially on some of the Burgundy. Anyone know the retailer? Some major bargains there that are hard to believe.
 
originally posted by Michael Lewis:
That sale is insane, especially on some of the Burgundy. Anyone know the retailer? Some major bargains there that are hard to believe.

They've been around for a while and I've ordered from them a handful of times with no problems. I took delivery of a couple cases last week from this current sale.
 
The owner of the shop is Dan Perelli. I see references to his event-planning prowess and wine knowledge. Wonder whether Levi has interviewed him?
 
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