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Keith Levenberg

Keith Levenberg
Dom. de la Grande Colline 2012 "S" - Somehow I managed to get by this long without ever trying any wine from Hirotake Ooka, so seeing this on the wine list at Reverie (wonderful restaurant, btw) seemed like a perfect opportunity. Gorgeous bottle of syrah here. Intense black-pepper scents with fruit of such vivid summer ripeness it's like being thrust into the book Jamberry. [*Footnote: This is a children's book about a boy and his grizzly bear picking fresh berries. It's nicely drawn and unlike most children's books these days, the meter actually scans correctly, with great little verses like, "Raspberry / Jazzberry / Razzamatazzberry!"] There is some serious razzamatazzberry here.

Dom. de la Grande Colline 2012 [sub silentio] Cornas - Tastes like a cross between Eric Texier Cote-Rotie and Verset Cornas if it were made by Dard & Ribo, which sounds kind of awesome but to be honest I am on the fence trying to figure out if this is maybe just too far into the red zone on the tach for its own good. The non-fruit elements are so overwhelming - bacon, cured aged meat, sweaty horses that probably indicate a non-zero amount of brett - that I almost feel like this should be served with a knife and fork. Some compoted red fruit scents hit the nose eventually but on the palate the balance between sweet and savory has the savory needle in Spinal Tap territory. This isn't so much a wine you drink with dinner as it is dinner. It's either Soil-to-Glass Transfer Cornas or the sausage stall at the farm market + a bit of the compost pile at the farm run through the Dan Akroyd Bass-o-Matic, depending on which angle you look at it.
 
originally posted by Brézème:
He's back to Japan.
No more Grande Colline

Zev Rovine (his U.S. Importer) recently said this in reference to a question about whether he stopped making wine:

He’s indeed moved back to Japan, where he’s planted a few hectares and is making wine there. Domaine de la grande colline is still in business however. Thierry is watching over the cornas vines and wines and the guy who was working with him to do canon etc is still doing it. Hirotake returns at a few key moments a year to keep it all going.

And according to Zev the Terry referenced above is Allemand.
 
NV Domaine de La Grande Colline (Hirotake Ooka) Vin de France 12.0%
Unicorn sighting. Bretty, yeasty, and volatile (no wonder the guy is a legend), but not excessively so. On the asset side there was tasty dark fruit with light semi-carbonic overtones and a pleasant tannin structure. Surprisingly, the disparate parts came together in a raffish whole, the trio of defects somehow offsetting each other, making for speedy consumption. But only ideal for the process purist who does not require the same from the results.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
NV Domaine de La Grande Colline (Hirotake Ooka) Vin de France 12.0%
Unicorn sighting. Bretty, yeasty, and volatile (no wonder the guy is a legend), but not excessively so. On the asset side there was tasty dark fruit with light semi-carbonic overtones and a pleasant tannin structure. Surprisingly, the disparate parts came together in a raffish whole, the trio of defects somehow offsetting each other, making for speedy consumption. But only ideal for the process purist who does not require the same from the results.

His wines were one of the first hardcore naturals I encountered over 10 years ago, recommended by Pierre Jancou at Racines in Paris. I think there is still a bottle or two in the cellar from that trip, but I have not dared to open them...
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
NV Domaine de La Grande Colline (Hirotake Ooka) Vin de France 12.0%
Unicorn sighting. Bretty, yeasty, and volatile (no wonder the guy is a legend), but not excessively so. On the asset side there was tasty dark fruit with light semi-carbonic overtones and a pleasant tannin structure. Surprisingly, the disparate parts came together in a raffish whole, the trio of defects somehow offsetting each other, making for speedy consumption. But only ideal for the process purist who does not require the same from the results.

sounds like he's cut from the same cloth as gaston hochar/chateau musar.
 
originally posted by robert ames:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
NV Domaine de La Grande Colline (Hirotake Ooka) Vin de France 12.0%
Unicorn sighting. Bretty, yeasty, and volatile (no wonder the guy is a legend), but not excessively so. On the asset side there was tasty dark fruit with light semi-carbonic overtones and a pleasant tannin structure. Surprisingly, the disparate parts came together in a raffish whole, the trio of defects somehow offsetting each other, making for speedy consumption. But only ideal for the process purist who does not require the same from the results.

sounds like he's cut from the same cloth as gaston hochar/chateau musar.

With Musar, I think of a bit of brett as part of the package, the way it is part of the house style at some domaines in the southern Rhone. If you are intolerant entirely, then the wines aren't for you (but you should still try the whites). If not, the wines can be wonderful. I have much less experience with Ooka, but my impression, ahem, isn't the same.
 
Musar flaws:

tenor.gif
 
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
originally posted by robert ames:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
NV Domaine de La Grande Colline (Hirotake Ooka) Vin de France 12.0%
Unicorn sighting. Bretty, yeasty, and volatile (no wonder the guy is a legend), but not excessively so. On the asset side there was tasty dark fruit with light semi-carbonic overtones and a pleasant tannin structure. Surprisingly, the disparate parts came together in a raffish whole, the trio of defects somehow offsetting each other, making for speedy consumption. But only ideal for the process purist who does not require the same from the results.

sounds like he's cut from the same cloth as gaston hochar/chateau musar.

With Musar, I think of a bit of brett as part of the package, the way it is part of the house style at some domaines in the southern Rhone. If you are intolerant entirely, then the wines aren't for you (but you should still try the whites). If not, the wines can be wonderful. I have much less experience with Ooka, but my impression, ahem, isn't the same.

jamie goode, in the first ever "what wine is this, really" column in 'art of eating', wrote about chateau musar, which he clearly loves. his observation was that chateau musar has every flaw in the book, all in perfect balance.
 
During our traumatic Scandinavian jaunt, a half bottle of older Musar was the only volatile wine we enjoyed, so I'd second that emotion. Though I imagine Ooka and Hochar are about as antipodean as can be.
 
originally posted by robert ames:

jamie goode, in the first ever "what wine is this, really" column in 'art of eating', wrote about chateau musar, which he clearly loves. his observation was that chateau musar has every flaw in the book, all in perfect balance.

Ah, thank you! I've been quoting that for years but never remembering where I had originally heard it.
 
originally posted by robert ames:
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
originally posted by robert ames:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
NV Domaine de La Grande Colline (Hirotake Ooka) Vin de France 12.0%
Unicorn sighting. Bretty, yeasty, and volatile (no wonder the guy is a legend), but not excessively so. On the asset side there was tasty dark fruit with light semi-carbonic overtones and a pleasant tannin structure. Surprisingly, the disparate parts came together in a raffish whole, the trio of defects somehow offsetting each other, making for speedy consumption. But only ideal for the process purist who does not require the same from the results.

sounds like he's cut from the same cloth as gaston hochar/chateau musar.

With Musar, I think of a bit of brett as part of the package, the way it is part of the house style at some domaines in the southern Rhone. If you are intolerant entirely, then the wines aren't for you (but you should still try the whites). If not, the wines can be wonderful. I have much less experience with Ooka, but my impression, ahem, isn't the same.

jamie goode, in the first ever "what wine is this, really" column in 'art of eating', wrote about chateau musar, which he clearly loves. his observation was that chateau musar has every flaw in the book, all in perfect balance.
That's funny. I once was served a red blend by Bruce Rector (original winemaker behind Glen Ellen's fighting varietal boom, now making fine Pinot Noir, sparkling Syrah and Pinot-based Vermouth in small quantities) that he said was a blend of terrible lots but each had a different flaw - underripe, overripe, too much pyrazines, brett, can't remember what else - so they all cancelled each other out. Can't say it was great, but it was kind of true.
 
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):

That's funny. I once was served a red blend by Bruce Rector (original winemaker behind Glen Ellen's fighting varietal boom, now making fine Pinot Noir, sparkling Syrah and Pinot-based Vermouth in small quantities) that he said was a blend of terrible lots but each had a different flaw - underripe, overripe, too much pyrazines, brett, can't remember what else - so they all cancelled each other out. Can't say it was great, but it was kind of true.

Yeah, well, Glen Ellen was only about blending so of course Bruce did that quite well. Wonder if you have seen him lately? His website was last updated about 12 years ago, so I wonder what he's up to. I believe I last saw him about 25 years ago, but we had been very good friends in the 70s.
 
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):

That's funny. I once was served a red blend by Bruce Rector (original winemaker behind Glen Ellen's fighting varietal boom, now making fine Pinot Noir, sparkling Syrah and Pinot-based Vermouth in small quantities) that he said was a blend of terrible lots but each had a different flaw - underripe, overripe, too much pyrazines, brett, can't remember what else - so they all cancelled each other out. Can't say it was great, but it was kind of true.

Yeah, well, Glen Ellen was only about blending so of course Bruce did that quite well. Wonder if you have seen him lately? His website was last updated about 12 years ago, so I wonder what he's up to. I believe I last saw him about 25 years ago, but we had been very good friends in the 70s.

Great guy, really funny, definitely a unique perspective on life. I haven't seen or talked to him in a couple of years. He was happily (re?)married, he and his wife running a micro winery, all direct-to-consumer, with products mentioned above. However, the winery burned down in the 2017 fires, although fortunately their house and property were mostly spared. I don't know if he rebuilt or moved to custom crush or retired. Time to check in.
 
Some guy named Jonathan Jacquart apparently bought La Grande Colline and is doing his own thing with it. Martine's Wines imports, and there is more detail about this newish direction here:


One bit made me laugh: "Ooka had always taken a hands-off approach to maintaining the property, eschewing insecticides, pesticides, and synthetic fertilizers. Jonathan continues this philosophy by embracing biodynamics while making significant improvements to the vineyard...."

I laughed because I recalled what Livingston-Learmonth wrote about Ooka: "He does absolutely nothing in the vineyard, so his Cornas vines look spindly and under-nourished; their yield is under 10 hl/ha as a result."
 
I should add that Sommpicks is offering two VdF "declassified Cornas" wines by La Grande Colline under the Jacquart regime each at $179 - progress?
 
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