Chidaine 2005 Montlouis 'Clos Habert' LOVELY

Karen Goetz

Karen Goetz
Limpid and beautiful sec-tendre in my mouth on 06/05/19 after removing from cellar 05/24/19: Color is soft gold. Bouquet is cold ice-stung yellow fruits and stony cold wet gray river stones; quince fruit caught in an icy moment; bouquet is restrained; honey notes prevail and they make me wonder if the wine will be heavy in my mouth (bouquet is dense); the aromas feel like a bellows that is ready for the forge: full of itself and expanded but caught in a membrane of itself, straining slightly with its own volume/weight (but it is full of air!). Taste is honeyed crystalline mineral yellow fruits with a bass note and fine minerality; clean, fresh; a brassy note rises up at the finish in my mouth; good acidity turns the metal back into fruits; this tastes like a bell wrought from gold brass with inscriptions etched by white minerals; it is weighty in my mouth at the finish but not sloppy; a burnished sense to the taste that glows a bit at the end like a sunset, lingering; 13.5% alcohol; it is not a dry wine but it does not feel heavy with fruit, it has enough song in it to keep it weightless but fulsome; some orange dried spices at the finish; an interesting combination of fullness and crispness. Astonishing wine in its limpidity and presence without heaviness or sloppiness; it is crisp and full at the same time. Lovely.
 
Great note. For me Clos Habert is the one that starts out seemingly softish and fat when young if not given proper attention and then really blossoms in bottle.

We had the ‘05 Tuffeaux Sunday at Jay’s and it was lovely but is not as complex or precise as Habert.
 
Indeed, great note. the more I drink Chidaine, the more I like. I had a glass of the '09 Tuffeaux (off a by-the-glass list, of all things) and it was a joy. My favorite producer to match with cream soup in fall and cold bisque in summer.

And for François Chidaine's stubborn willingness to see things through his way, strength to his hand.
 
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