2 Wines with the estimable Mr. Lipton

J

Jay Miller

Jay Miller
Mark's trip to NYC was unexpectedly cut short but fortunately we were able to meet up for an hour at Maison Kayser so he didn't have to bring home all the wines he flew in with.

2003 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Reserva
Soft and attractive fruit with a slight sour note running through it that integrates nicely with air. Beautiful match with a piece of salmon.

2005 Clos Roche Blanche Cot
Magnificent, fresh, life affirming and a delight to drink. A slight touch of band-aidy brett only addes to the complexity and does not detract from the earthiness.
 
First of all, it was most accommodating of Jay to arrange this impromptu get-together. To add to his notes, the CRB was open for moment one, with a lush, velvety texture, a profound sense of freshness that was indeed life affirming. Everything was in perfect balance and, yes, there was a touch of gamey (for me) Brett underneath the generous fruit. The Tondonia was a bit of a science experiment for me as it was the only 03 in my cellar. Once the dilly oak note had blown off the wine proved to be not at all roasted or pruney but with a sour note that cried out for food. It was transformed by both Jays salmon and my chicken, becoming smooth with an underlying soft, warm fruit. I don’t foresee a long life here, but it’s very enjoyable now.

Mark Lipton
 
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