Impressions 7-13-19

[Florida Jim]

Wine Impressions - 7-13-19

Whites:
2016 Scribe, Skin-Fermented Chardonnay (500 ml) - a quiet, lower register nose and a lovely, textured mouthfeel with aged Chardonnay flavors. Quite attractive and both Diane and I are happy to have a few more “squatty little bottles” in the cooler.
2014 Louis Michel, Vaudesir - still in its primary stages with brief flashes of a fine future. Hold.
2016 Lioco, Chardonnay Sonoma County - as good a value in domestic Chardonnay as there is; nearly Chablis-like in flavor profile, lovely aromatics and great structure. For now or for later. Bravo!
2018 Gramercy Cellars, Picpoul - crisp, bright, flavorful and ready now; yum.
2018 Cowan Cellars, Ribolla Gialla - always amazes me how much volume this wine has but still with good cut. Typical of the grape and ready now.
2018 Edmunds St. John, Heart of Gold - joyous, happy wine . . . and so are we who sip it.
2014 Ladd Cellars, Chardonnay Sonoma Coast - powerful acidity currently in charge - there is a lot here but it is coiled into a very tight ball right now. Hold.
2011 Dom. de Roally, Vire-Clesse - one of the rare wines where a little RS works; rich but etched Chardonnay with considerable length. Even Diane likes it and RS usually sends her running. Nice.
2016 Birichino, Chenin Blanc Jurassic Park Vineyard - 12.5% abv; precise, Chenin made of whole cloth - nothing out of place or over emphasized; layered, deep, nuanced and stunning with roast chicken with lemon-butter sauce.

Reds:
2014 Cowan Cellars, Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - as this gets bottle age it comes together and begins to impress. It started life as black cherry compote but it has morphed into a sort of Volnay-esque Pinot with texture and depth. Sometimes, I even surprise myself.
2016 Birichino, Cinsault Bechthold Vnyd. - quite lactic on day one - on day two its more to expectations with bright fruit, good structure and complexity. Maybe needs time?
2017 Black Trumpet, Syrah Heintz Vineyard (red capsule) - meaty, garrigue goodness with balance and structure. Touch of brett. Delicious with pizza.
2018 Harrington, Misteri - unknown cepage but not dissimilar to the Nerello Mascalese which is what the vines were first thought to be. Medium weight, plenty bright and long. Interesting stuff.
2010 Arpepe, Valtellina Sassella Stella Retica Riserva - mellow, beautiful Nebbiolo with complexity; weightless but intense and a glorious nose. World class!
2001 Veaux Telegraph, CdP - young and fresh; soulful and deep - what you want when you buy this producer.
2018 Edmunds St. John, El Jaleo - exuberant nose of fresh cut fruit, much the same in the mouth with a lot going on. Hard to believe this was bottled last week.
2014 Edmunds St. John, Rocks and Gravel - in its own way, as soulful as the Veaux; made for the long haul but showing well now.
2004 Lagier Meredith, Syrah - opened 24 hours earlier - sensational; loaded with tertiary and secondary notes, Hermitage-esque in style, meaty yet medium weight and the best LM Syrah I’ve tasted. 15 years have been kind.
2016 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Antle Vnyd. - 12.6% abv; this vineyard seems to produce wines with more treble notes than several of the others that D&R work with, and of course, whole cluster fermentation emphasizes that. This vintage is pure, lightweight but intense Mourvèdre with complexity and an emotional appeal that carries me off to the Umbrian countryside. A moving expression of the grape and a delight with Diane’s tomato based vegetable ragout. Drink or hold.
2013 Ladd Cellars, Pinot Noir Nash Mill Vnyd. - effusive wild strawberry and cranberry nose; texture of silk, slightly bitter in the mouth which seems to give it more compatibility with food. Aromatics alone are amazing and the palate is not far behind. Even some secondary development. Good stuff.
1998 Chat. Cleric Milan, Pauillac (magnum) - youthful, minty, structured and opened too early. Hold.

Best, Jim

 

[Peter Creasey]

Jim, this group of wines appeared to strike you more favorably than other lineups you have reported on. If true, then either you are mellowing or your wine selecting is serving you better.

Glad that y'all are drinking so well.

. . . . Pete

 

[MLipton]

originally posted by Florida Jim:
Impressions 7-13-19Wine Impressions - 7-13-19

Reds:

2004 Lagier Meredith, Syrah - opened 24 hours earlier - sensational; loaded with tertiary and secondary notes, Hermitage-esque in style, meaty yet medium weight and the best LM Syrah I’ve tasted. 15 years have been kind.

Jim, first of all, thanks for the notes which, as always, are a joy and an education to read. I felt compelled to comment on this wine, however. You no doubt no longer recall that, years ago, you suggested that we visit this winery on one of our obligatory outings to Napa. We did, and had a fantastic visit with Steve and Carole in their lovely home atop Mt Veeder. After establishing all the personal connections we had, we tasted their ‘04 Syrah while eating Prof Meredith’s olives. It was one of the most impressive young Syrahs I’ve ever tasted, and this comes from someone who’s barrel tasted Verset and Chave. We bought 3 bottles in part because it’s a birth year wine for our son and have only opened 1 so far. I look forward to those remaining two bottles.

Mark Lipton

 

[Tristan Welles]

originally posted by MLipton:

originally posted by Florida Jim:
Impressions 7-13-19Wine Impressions - 7-13-19

Reds:

2004 Lagier Meredith, Syrah - opened 24 hours earlier - sensational; loaded with tertiary and secondary notes, Hermitage-esque in style, meaty yet medium weight and the best LM Syrah I’ve tasted. 15 years have been kind.

Jim, first of all, thanks for the notes which, as always, are a joy and an education to read. I felt compelled to comment on this wine, however. You no doubt no longer recall that, years ago, you suggested that we visit this winery on one of our obligatory outings to Napa. We did, and had a fantastic visit with Steve and Carole in their lovely home atop Mt Veeder. After establishing all the personal connections we had, we tasted their ‘04 Syrah while eating Prof Meredith’s olives. It was one of the most impressive young Syrahs I’ve ever tasted, and this comes from someone who’s barrel tasted Verset and Chave. We bought 3 bottles in part because it’s a birth year wine for our son and have only opened 1 so far. I look forward to those remaining two bottles.

Mark Lipton

quite the lovely anecdote. A perfect explication for friendship, travel and adventure.

 

[Florida Jim]

Mark,
‘Pleased to hear of your memories and that you have some of this.
We only got to try this because the previous day’s guests had not finished it, but Steve was kind enough to pour us on day two.
I was there with several folks who’d not been before and few that had - every one of us stopped and “smelled the roses.” LM is not always my style but I think I have been into them too early. This bottle turned me around.
One of the better moments of my wine-making life was when Steve said he’d like to trade me a case of mine for a case of his. I still have several from that case and will now try to give them the time they need.
And should you get back this way, I still have a ‘98, their first vintage - should be close . . .
Best, Jim

 

[Rahsaan]

2011 Dom. de Roally, Vire-Clesse - one of the rare wines where a little RS works..

?? Do you mean a little as opposed to a lot? Or a little as opposed to none? Either way, I think it's pretty clear from various top quality regions that wines with varying levels of RS work well. Whether or not they are to an individual's tastes is another story.

 

[robert ames]

originally posted by Rahsaan:

2011 Dom. de Roally, Vire-Clesse - one of the rare wines where a little RS works..

?? Do you mean a little as opposed to a lot? Or a little as opposed to none? Either way, I think it's pretty clear from various top quality regions that wines with varying levels of RS work well. Whether or not they are to an individual's tastes is another story.

in the macon there is a style called "levroutee" where wine is bottled with rs sorta akin to what demi-sec is in vouvray. i'm not sure how often botrytis affected fruit is found in this style macon, but i'll bet it is not uncommon.

domaine de roally doesn't put this nomenclature on their label and it doesn't have that level of sweetness. i've only ever stumbled upon one instance where a levroutee bottling was imported to the usa.

the levroutee style would be great with say foie gras tourchon where there was no sweet compote to challenge the limited sweetness of the wine.

 

[Florida Jim]

originally posted by Rahsaan:

2011 Dom. de Roally, Vire-Clesse - one of the rare wines where a little RS works..

?? Do you mean a little as opposed to a lot? Or a little as opposed to none? Either way, I think it's pretty clear from various top quality regions that wines with varying levels of RS work well. Whether or not they are to an individual's tastes is another story.

Just my “impression.”
Best, Jim

 

[Rahsaan]

originally posted by Florida Jim:

originally posted by Rahsaan:

2011 Dom. de Roally, Vire-Clesse - one of the rare wines where a little RS works..

?? Do you mean a little as opposed to a lot? Or a little as opposed to none? Either way, I think it's pretty clear from various top quality regions that wines with varying levels of RS work well. Whether or not they are to an individual's tastes is another story.

Just my “impression.”
Best, Jim

So you normally don't like any RS in wines. Somehow I missed that over the years of notes. (But I guess we can't all keep running tallies on everyone's palate) Didn't we drink a bunch of off-dry riesling at my house in Berkeley 15 (!) years ago. Sorry if that was torture.

Either way, sounds like this Roally was a good one.

 

[Jeff Grossman]

You should see "levrouté" on the label more often in upcoming vintages.

 

[Florida Jim]

originally posted by Rahsaan:

originally posted by Florida Jim:

originally posted by Rahsaan:

2011 Dom. de Roally, Vire-Clesse - one of the rare wines where a little RS works..

?? Do you mean a little as opposed to a lot? Or a little as opposed to none? Either way, I think it's pretty clear from various top quality regions that wines with varying levels of RS work well. Whether or not they are to an individual's tastes is another story.

Just my “impression.”
Best, Jim

So you normally don't like any RS in wines. Somehow I missed that over the years of notes. (But I guess we can't all keep running tallies on everyone's palate) Didn't we drink a bunch of off-dry riesling at my house in Berkeley 15 (!) years ago. Sorry if that was torture.

Either way, sounds like this Roally was a good one.

Yeah, some German riesling is another fine exception, although not beyond Auslese and that, rarely.
But there are fewer these days - given up on Demi-sec Vouvray, Romorantin, anything but bone dry bubbles and a few more that used to be in the wheelhouse. ‘Didn’t even like this Roally when released.
Grumpy old man.
Hrmph.
Best, Jim

 

[robert ames]

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
You should see "levrouté" on the label more often in upcoming vintages.

maybe it's just me, but i found the article rather confusing. in reality, from what i get, is that now besides being able to label a vire clisse 'levroute' they can now also use the moniker 'demi'sec' for wines that are less swet than levroute.

the wine that i had a year ago or so was a Domaine Michel 2010 Viré-Clessé "Levroûtée" La Barre, so clearly the levroutee classification was already allowed in 2010.

the labeling changes discussed in the referred to article didn't go into effect until april 2018.

 

[Jeff Grossman]

originally posted by robert ames:

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
You should see "levrouté" on the label more often in upcoming vintages.

maybe it's just me, but i found the article rather confusing. in reality, from what i get, is that now besides being able to label a vire clisse 'levroute' they can now also use the moniker 'demi'sec' for wines that are less swet than levroute.

the wine that i had a year ago or so was a Domaine Michel 2010 Viré-Clessé "Levroûtée" La Barre, so clearly the levroutee classification was already allowed in 2010.

the labeling changes discussed in the referred to article didn't go into effect until april 2018.

Hm. Maybe I read too quickly. I think you're right.

 

[BJ]

originally posted by Florida Jim:
Mark,

I was there with several folks who’d not been before and few that had - every one of us stopped and “smelled the roses.” LM is not always my style but I think I have been into them too early. This bottle turned me around.

Best, Jim

Could it be, another convert to the Rule of 15?

 

[Todd Abrams]

originally posted by robert ames:

originally posted by Rahsaan:

2011 Dom. de Roally, Vire-Clesse - one of the rare wines where a little RS works..

?? Do you mean a little as opposed to a lot? Or a little as opposed to none? Either way, I think it's pretty clear from various top quality regions that wines with varying levels of RS work well. Whether or not they are to an individual's tastes is another story.

in the macon there is a style called "levroutee" where wine is bottled with rs sorta akin to what demi-sec is in vouvray. i'm not sure how often botrytis affected fruit is found in this style macon, but i'll bet it is not uncommon.

domaine de roally doesn't put this nomenclature on their label and it doesn't have that level of sweetness. i've only ever stumbled upon one instance where a levroutee bottling was imported to the usa.

the levroutee style would be great with say foie gras tourchon where there was no sweet compote to challenge the limited sweetness of the wine.

I believe Domaine de la Bongran’s levroute still makes it to the states. I have a bottle of 92 laying around when it was still a Macon-Clesse.

In regard to the article Jeff linked, it looks like perhaps it is the specific placement on the label that is being allowed under regulation. From 2018 you can place the demi-sec or levroute designation directly behind the appellation name. I’m not sure how it was presented on the 2010 Domaine Michel you drank but a bottle image from the 2011 vintage has it displayed on the neck, not as part of the appellation.

 

[robert ames]

originally posted by Todd Abrams:

originally posted by robert ames:

originally posted by Rahsaan:

2011 Dom. de Roally, Vire-Clesse - one of the rare wines where a little RS works..

?? Do you mean a little as opposed to a lot? Or a little as opposed to none? Either way, I think it's pretty clear from various top quality regions that wines with varying levels of RS work well. Whether or not they are to an individual's tastes is another story.

in the macon there is a style called "levroutee" where wine is bottled with rs sorta akin to what demi-sec is in vouvray. i'm not sure how often botrytis affected fruit is found in this style macon, but i'll bet it is not uncommon.

domaine de roally doesn't put this nomenclature on their label and it doesn't have that level of sweetness. i've only ever stumbled upon one instance where a levroutee bottling was imported to the usa.

the levroutee style would be great with say foie gras tourchon where there was no sweet compote to challenge the limited sweetness of the wine.

I believe Domaine de la Bongran’s levroute still makes it to the states. I have a bottle of 92 laying around when it was still a Macon-Clesse.

In regard to the article Jeff linked, it looks like perhaps it is the specific placement on the label that is being allowed under regulation. From 2018 you can place the demi-sec or levroute designation directly behind the appellation name. I’m not sure how it was presented on the 2010 Domaine Michel you drank but a bottle image from the 2011 vintage has it displayed on the neck, not as part of the appellation.

sorry i am too luddite to figure out how to rotate the picture, but way back at the 2010 vintage levroutee was allowed on the main label--so doing this was allowed well before 2018.

 

[Todd Abrams]

originally posted by robert ames:

originally posted by Todd Abrams:

originally posted by robert ames:

originally posted by Rahsaan:

2011 Dom. de Roally, Vire-Clesse - one of the rare wines where a little RS works..

?? Do you mean a little as opposed to a lot? Or a little as opposed to none? Either way, I think it's pretty clear from various top quality regions that wines with varying levels of RS work well. Whether or not they are to an individual's tastes is another story.

in the macon there is a style called "levroutee" where wine is bottled with rs sorta akin to what demi-sec is in vouvray. i'm not sure how often botrytis affected fruit is found in this style macon, but i'll bet it is not uncommon.

domaine de roally doesn't put this nomenclature on their label and it doesn't have that level of sweetness. i've only ever stumbled upon one instance where a levroutee bottling was imported to the usa.

the levroutee style would be great with say foie gras tourchon where there was no sweet compote to challenge the limited sweetness of the wine.

I believe Domaine de la Bongran’s levroute still makes it to the states. I have a bottle of 92 laying around when it was still a Macon-Clesse.

In regard to the article Jeff linked, it looks like perhaps it is the specific placement on the label that is being allowed under regulation. From 2018 you can place the demi-sec or levroute designation directly behind the appellation name. I’m not sure how it was presented on the 2010 Domaine Michel you drank but a bottle image from the 2011 vintage has it displayed on the neck, not as part of the appellation.

sorry i am too luddite to figure out how to rotate the picture, but way back at the 2010 vintage levroutee was allowed on the main label--so doing this was allowed well before 2018.

Clearly it was allowed on a label prior to 2018. What looks to have changed is the placement of levroute and demi-sec as part of the appellation (not just as a cuvee name or however it was allowed before the new rules). Presumably the change means there’s also more stringent regulation of production methods if you want to use those terms. The official decree was linked to in the article that Jeff posted.