originally posted by Tristan Welles:
the other night with friends:
Marguet's Grande Ruelle '12. This is -- decidedly -- a new wave producer and I am still finding my way around the various cuvées. Barrel-fermented, 100% pinot noir, low or no sulfur. Low or no dosage. Bio. The wine? Vinous, less yeasty, fine acidity. Persistent and palate pleasing. I've tried Marguet's 'Elements' before and thought it too acidic, perhaps needing time. This is the domaine's top tier (I think) and the material seems to be there. Before opening I guessed it would be more of an aperitif -- but actually it is best with food. Friends loved it, and as with any middling-or-better champagne, it simply disappeared. I'd say now, or ten years from now. Some top champagne cuvées from the grower crowd seem to be able to live on, I'm not sure this one will.
Luigi Oddero Barolo '00, normale. Levi informs us this is the lesser of the two Oddero properties. This turned out to be very, very good. Upon opening this wine was a bit cloudy, after a bit in a decanter it was clear, with a light plum color. A wispy scent of mint -- but only at first -- mixed with rose. More sturdy than the color. Overall quite enjoyable. Fine with lamb shanks. Drink now. To invert the deathless Wodehouse quote: If this is Oddero Inferior, what must Oddero Superior taste like?
'05 Suduiraut with the cheese course. Straight forward sauterne. A bit creamy-bodied. Plenty of acidity, plenty of life ahead. Thankfully the fruit is restrained, and not like Guiraud's 'tropical' profile. I'm glad Guiraud is like that, for the right occasion. I just prefer Suduiraut and Climens to stay true.