TN: Bottles of Spring and Summer 2019

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
A selection of recent drinking:

Pagliarese 2016 Chianti Classico - brooding and mostly unyielding on Day 1, this needed two days to open; then, nervy and minerally but still dark tones to the fruit, worth waiting for

Gaudry, Vincent 2016 Sancerre Rouge "Vincengetorix" - midweight yet still nimble, chalky minerality in the background, very pinot fruit with just a touch of gravitas, yum; second bottle about the same, maybe a little less open; tip of the hat to Yixin

Dom. des Enfant 2018 IGP Cotes Catalane "Le Jouet" - 100% macabeu, dry wine (not vins doux) from Roussillon, this estate was created by a former NYC sommelier and her Swiss winemaker husband... land in Rousillon is much more affordable than land in Priorat (his first choice) and, in this case, comes with WWII-era vines already planted; gently tangy, a lot of mouthfeel, akin to a Rhone white; Day 3 is much the same but I finally reach the heap of tartaric crystals at the bottom of the bottle

Brooks 2014 Pinot Noir "Janus" - rooty and beety to start but eventually relents into a more vinous flavor profile, good but no fireworks

Il Chiosso 2011 Gattinara - good, typical Alto Piemonte from Vias Imports (heavily Italian portfolio)

Dom. de l'Ecu 2016 Muscadet - from a restaurant list, clean and classic, yellow fruits and seashells, maybe a tad soft

Gunderloch 2017 Riesling Kabinett "Jean-Baptiste" - bright but with great depth of flavor for an intro label, glou-glou and gone

Nikolaihof 2010 Gruner Veltliner Im Weingebirge Federspiel - this bottle started off with intense phenolics, really over-stuffed, rather overwhelmed the hot dogs and hamburgers off the grill; Day 2, it relented a little but it really wasn't until Day 4 that it was 'merely' powerful, mineral/talc, chewy, with just a smear of apricot preserves; great stuff but think big

Franchino 2013 Gattinara - typical Alto Piemonte nose: cherries and something taut and minerally (and just a touch like camphor), but the palate is richer in this vintage, more fruit, it eventually settles juicily around my tongue and produces more flavor; I'm usually sensitive to it but this does not show its 14% very much; the finish is steady and even, no adjustments, it just fades like it began; glad to have a few more of these

Adanti "Arquata" 2010 Sagrantino di Montefalco - well, if I didn't already know what sagrantino tasted like, this would not really clue me in; it's nicely made and glou-glou otherwise; David Vincent Selection (a mom+pop that just closed-up shop)

Proprieta Sperino 2018 Piemonte Rosato "Rosa del Rosa" - single-serving bottle (750ml), pretty but lurid pink, redfruit basket with a tiny but sturdy floral note woven in, fresh and dry and insanely drinkable; second bottle the same

Lapierre, Marcel 2009 Morgon - my contribution to the local discussion hereabouts on 2009 Beaujolais... pruny and dull, with a whiff of varnish, DNPIM

Dom. David Moreau 2014 Santenay Rouge "Cuvee S" - that's really quite nice, stylish pinot noir with classic Burgundy sub-notes, better than I usually give Santenay credit for, best on Day 1 as it simplified a little on Day 3

Croci 2017 VDT "Campedello" Frizzante - hm, ah, well, this is not the bottling I meant to drink; tastes rather like Normandy bouche cider, sharp and horsey, though, as my original note said, every now and then a hint of cool citrus peeps out; let's hope my other bottle is the right cru!
 
Nice. I'm opening one of those exact same Niks in a few days and now I'm scared. The whiff of varnish on that Lapierre sounds suspiciously like you-know-who.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Pagliarese 2016 Chianti Classico - brooding and mostly unyielding on Day 1, this needed two days to open; then, nervy and minerally but still dark tones to the fruit, worth waiting for

Franchino 2013 Gattinara - typical Alto Piemonte nose: cherries and something taut and minerally (and just a touch like camphor), but the palate is richer in this vintage, more fruit, it eventually settles juicily around my tongue and produces more flavor; I'm usually sensitive to it but this does not show its 14% very much; the finish is steady and even, no adjustments, it just fades like it began; glad to have a few more of these

Proprieta Sperino 2018 Piemonte Rosato "Rosa del Rosa" - single-serving bottle (750ml), pretty but lurid pink, redfruit basket with a tiny but sturdy floral note woven in, fresh and dry and insanely drinkable; second bottle the same

The Pagliarese and Sperino are our go-tos at one of our favorite restaurants. We eat there at least 3 times per month and generally drink at least one bottle of the Sperino, as you said, insanely drinkable.

I love the Franchino wines. They are a bit hard to come by and the only bottles of the 2013 listed on W-S are in MA. I somehow missed the 2013 although we drank a bottle in situ back in April. Your description matches my memory.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Il Chiosso 2011 Gattinara - good, typical Alto Piemonte from Vias Imports (heavily Italian portfolio)

Il Chiosso makes nice, quiet wines.

Lapierre, Marcel 2009 Morgon - my contribution to the local discussion hereabouts on 2009 Beaujolais... pruny and dull, with a whiff of varnish, DNPIM

I've never thought it that bad, and no varnish either.
 
Lapierre, Marcel 2009 Morgon - my contribution to the local discussion hereabouts on 2009 Beaujolais... pruny and dull, with a whiff of varnish, DNPIM

I've never thought it that bad, and no varnish either.

I just realized I have 4 of those, so will open one tonight.
Cellartracker comments from 2019 don't sound that nasty....
 
2009 Lapierre was an absolute joy young but probably shouldn't have been kept, hard to imagine any upside. I drank all my S bottlings within a few years but ended up holding on to a few Ns which were not good by the time I got to them.
 
originally posted by georg lauer:
Lapierre, Marcel 2009 Morgon - my contribution to the local discussion hereabouts on 2009 Beaujolais... pruny and dull, with a whiff of varnish, DNPIM

I've never thought it that bad, and no varnish either.

I just realized I have 4 of those, so will open one tonight.
Cellartracker comments from 2019 don't sound that nasty....

So it was not one of those Lapierre bottles we dream off. Definitely a bit ripe. But it was still overall nicely balanced and fresh enough that three of us finished the bottle over dinner rather quickly.
 
Back
Top