Loosen, E., 2002's Riesling

Karen Goetz

Karen Goetz
I dragged two bottles out of the cellar after letting them languish in style for a while. Curious. Both were enormously fresh.

2002 Loosen, E., Urziger Wurtzgarten, Spatlese. 7.5 % alc.
WOW.
Bright, soft pale golden color with an undertone of green glints.
Bouquet is richly minerals and fruits; some strawberries; molten royal metals (it just feels right to put it that way; remember I live in a world of metaphorical smell sensations); the whole bouquet lives at the beginning of the Periodic Table of Elements, electrons jolting around strawberry and lime; some pissy orange dried ground spice beneath a cold blast of fresh air off a stream, ripe rhubarb. The last existing glacier. Tastes like wild strawberries and guavas smashed across wet grey brook stones; lemon wet finish; acidity bright and melded into the rest of it, a crucible of freshness.
Went well with a pot of braised sweet long Italian peppers, tomatoes, garlic, gigante white beans in beef stock with an anchovy cooked into it.

2002 Loosen, E., Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Kabinett. 7.5% alc.
Oddly, a mellower wine with more acidity.
Color is slightly deeper gold than the UrzWurz; not as much green in it; fresh looking.
Bouquet is old honey over stones, cold stones, and green streamside/moist woodland vegetation; lots of yellow fruits with honeyed notes to them (old pears still on the tree); some almost-salinity; it has a tense shape to it though fruit feels rotund; a greenish bunch of aromas overall. Taste is more linear than the UrzWurz; saline and mineral character; lemony/limestone finish in my mouth that makes the saliva flow; yellow spices in tiny burst among the mineral flourish at the finish. Lovely abrupt bright finish in my mouth, a smack of citrus. A limestone salt lick hiding under fruit (as a cow or deer would enjoy). Bouquet is more unctuous than the mouth of this wine.
This puppy was less enjoyable with the dinner (above); too linear with those flavors.
 
originally posted by Karen Goetz:
Loosen, E., 2002's RieslingI dragged two bottles out of the cellar after letting them languish in style for a while. Curious. Both were enormously fresh.

2002 Loosen, E., Urziger Wurtzgarten, Spatlese. 7.5 % alc.
WOW.
Bright, soft pale golden color with an undertone of green glints.
Bouquet is richly minerals and fruits; some strawberries; molten royal metals (it just feels right to put it that way; remember I live in a world of metaphorical smell sensations); the whole bouquet lives at the beginning of the Periodic Table of Elements, electrons jolting around strawberry and lime; some pissy orange dried ground spice beneath a cold blast of fresh air off a stream, ripe rhubarb. The last existing glacier. Tastes like wild strawberries and guavas smashed across wet grey brook stones; lemon wet finish; acidity bright and melded into the rest of it, a crucible of freshness.
Went well with a pot of braised sweet long Italian peppers, tomatoes, garlic, gigante white beans in beef stock with an anchovy cooked into it.

2002 Loosen, E., Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Kabinett. 7.5% alc.
Oddly, a mellower wine with more acidity.
Color is slightly deeper gold than the UrzWurz; not as much green in it; fresh looking.
Bouquet is old honey over stones, cold stones, and green streamside/moist woodland vegetation; lots of yellow fruits with honeyed notes to them (old pears still on the tree); some almost-salinity; it has a tense shape to it though fruit feels rotund; a greenish bunch of aromas overall. Taste is more linear than the UrzWurz; saline and mineral character; lemony/limestone finish in my mouth that makes the saliva flow; yellow spices in tiny burst among the mineral flourish at the finish. Lovely abrupt bright finish in my mouth, a smack of citrus. A limestone salt lick hiding under fruit (as a cow or deer would enjoy). Bouquet is more unctuous than the mouth of this wine.
This puppy was less enjoyable with the dinner (above); too linear with those flavors.

Not so suprising on the different flavor profiles of UW vs WS, but of course, it is also spätlese vs kabinett, which 17 years down the line probably makes a big difference.

What I do find surprising is the food pairing. Having a little experience with German wines and food, Riesling with RS would probably be the last thing I'd pair with that dish. Garlic, in particular, just does not work and tomatoes even less so.
 
originally posted by mark e:

Not so suprising on the different flavor profiles of UW vs WS, but of course, it is also spätlese vs kabinett, which 17 years down the line probably makes a big difference.

What I do find surprising is the food pairing. Having a little experience with German wines and food, Riesling with RS would probably be the last thing I'd pair with that dish. Garlic, in particular, just does not work and tomatoes even less so.

Interesting - I've enjoyed Kabinett or Spatlese Riesling numerous times with classic simple chinese vegetables with garlic and clear or white sauce. But I agree on tomatoes with Riesling, at least if they are prominent in the dish; to me they're the palate equivalent of nails on a chalkboard.
 
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