A Saturday afternoon well spent

Jayson Cohen

Jayson Cohen
We often post on the wines we have, or the wines we drank, or the wineries and winemakers, but less often about the hunt and the joys and disappointments of the hunt that most of us are on perpetually to source wine.

Which brings me to my Saturday afternoon free in Manhattan yesterday....

Chapter 1. In Search of Sorbo. A single bottle of 1999 Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo at Bee Wines & Liquors at a very good price motivated a trip to the East Village. I’ve kept a lookout for this wine for a few years now after being wowed by a bottle, and this week I was feeling the disappointment of passing on a recent auction lot (reverse buyer’s remorse). I hopped in the car and headed Downtown. When I arrived and asked at the counter how long the bottle had been there, the honest guy at the register said it had been on the sales floor 5-6 years. I asked about conditions. Again he was honest: no A/C at night in the summer and a heated store in the winter. I thanked him for his candor, sighed, and passed.

Chapter 2. Love for Labet. My other motivation to venture to the East Village was Labet Les Varrons at Discovery Wines, one of the only places I know to get this wine. It was less than 10 minutes from Bee to Discovery. Trevor chatted me up on the Labets and others, and I wound up leaving with: a bottle each of 2015 and 2016 Les Varrons for a side-by-side; a 2014 Coteaux Champenois En Barmont from my Riceys vigneron icon, Olivier Horiot; a completely unknown-to-me Rosé-ish wine from Strohmeier, Karmin #8 TMZ, made from the completely unknown-to-me Blauer Wildbacher variety and brought in by Jenny and Francois; and a plan to come back soon for a couple other bottles that are hard to find anywhere else.

Chapter 3. Falkenstein Fanaticism. On the way back Uptown, Waze routed me dangerously close to Eastside Cellars, where they always seem to have a stash of Falkensteins, not all of them always on the website. I couldn’t resist a quick detour. The 2018 Altenberg Spatlese Feinherb (#7) found a home.

Two plus hours well spent.
 
Bravo for honest clerks. I guess it is especially useful to be honest when they sense a discerning customer.
 
Bee Wines & Liquors

Very curious place. Use to cater a lot to the Stuy Town monied crowd. When I lived in the EV I popped in now and then and bought more rarely. NYC was once littered with such neighborhood spots. Like First Avenue Liquors near 23rd Street. Or Washington Square Wines. Made the hunt more interesting.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
A single bottle of 1999 Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo at Bee Wines & Liquors at a very good price motivated a trip to the East Village. I’ve kept a lookout for this wine for a few years now after being wowed by a bottle, and this week I was feeling the disappointment of passing on a recent auction lot (reverse buyer’s remorse).

Small world -- I think I bought the auction bottle you were eying. Do you ever get out to the Bay Area? If so, it could anchor a jeebus.

I like Labet too, but was quite surprised by the alcohol on one of the 2015 Chards, I think it is the Varrons. As I recall it was listed at 14.5% and the wine showed it. Curious to hear about the mini-vertical.
 
Julien knows what ripe means, as his grapes are concerned. And in 2015 in sud Revermond ripe doesn't mean 12%. No Way.
Anything else means marketing attempt to please the hipster crowd. Not a true vigneron approach.
BTW look at the 2016 alc. levels. This is what vintage means.
 
originally posted by Brézème:
Julien knows what ripe means, as his grapes are concerned. And in 2015 in sud Revermond ripe doesn't mean 12%. No Way.
Anything else means marketing attempt to please the hipster crowd. Not a true vigneron approach.
BTW look at the 2016 alc. levels. This is what vintage means.

I didn't mean to imply otherwise, Eric. If that's what 2015 gave him, then that's the wine he should make. As a lover of Jura wines, I hope that such warm vintages don't become the new normal.
 
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
I didn't mean to imply otherwise, Eric. If that's what 2015 gave him, then that's the wine he should make. As a lover of Jura wines, I hope that such warm vintages don't become the new normal.
Anyway, there are a lot of hillsides in the Jura... further up the slope and maybe facing a bit to the West....
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
First Avenue Liquors’ back room was a treasure trove.

I just pulled a bottle bought from The Wine Shop on First Avenue which was near 83rd Street and where Lyle worked for awhile. I think it was run by a family member of the guy who owns PJs. That was also a good source for wine back in the day.

This made me think of Windsor Court Wine Shop where there was that one guy who was kind of odd but knew his stuff. If memory serves they had a Eurocave up front by the register where they stored the cherries. I think Asher and Yaacov used to buy here a lot.
 
originally posted by Marc Hanes:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
First Avenue Liquors’ back room was a treasure trove.

This made me think of Windsor Court Wine Shop where there was that one guy who was kind of odd but knew his stuff. If memory serves they had a Eurocave up front by the register where they stored the cherries. I think Asher and Yaacov used to buy here a lot.

That was Knut. His last name was Wathne, if I recall correctly. Nice guy with a good palate. I haven't shopped there in many years, although I walked by within the last couple of years and Knut was still there.
 
COVID casualty. The Labet Jeebus never happened. I’ve got two bottles of Labet Chard burning a hole in my home wine fridge.

Jeff, what should I do?
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
COVID casualty. The Labet Jeebus never happened. I’ve got two bottles of Labet Chard burning a hole in my home wine fridge.

Jeff, what should I do?
I have two bottles sitting here, too.

I'm a patient man.
 
I have some sort of Labet waiting for me at the local distributor. Maybe I can participate too, if we ever go back to NYC.
 
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