Modern Wine, Ancient Wine

Todd Abrams

Todd Abrams
One of my favorite Sangiovese based wines this year is the 2016 Sesti (Castello di Argiano) Rosso di Montalcino. It offers a medley of alluring scents: summer fruits, sandalwood, rose, wet stone... A sip is like eating a summer berry salad at the bottom of a dry stone quarry. It’s got Brunello vibes but not quite the Brunello concentration.

Apparently the Montalcino estate of Castello di Argiano is built upon an ancient Etruscan outpost. I have a bit of a fixation with the Etruscan civilization. I couldn’t really tell you why. Perhaps it is because they remain somewhat mysterious relative to many of the other Mediterranean civilizations that were around in the same time periods.

My family was kind enough to celebrate my last birthday by presenting me with an extremely well-informed and current collection of essays on the Etruscans published by Routledge. Interestingly, the editor, Jean MacIntosh Turfa, is a research associate at the University of Pennsylvania Museum -- easily the finest collection of Etruscan artifacts I have encountered yet.

The UPenn museum also employs Dr. Patrick McGovern as the Scientific Director of the Biomolecular Archaeology Project for Cuisine, Fermented Beverages, and Health. Possibly of interest to a few of you fine people here is McGovern’s paper providing the earliest known biomolecular archaeological evidence of winemaking in France, gleaned from artifacts discovered at the ancient port site of Lattara near Montpelier. You guessed it. Apparently we can thank the Etruscans for luring the Gauls into wine culture sometime around the 6th Century BCE.

I do find a bit of history enhances the character of Old World wine.
 
originally posted by Todd Abrams:
Modern Wine, Ancient Wine

I do find a bit of history enhances the character of Old World wine.

Thanks, interesting and I wholeheartedly agree. Not just Old World; I got a geeky history thrill when tasting Constantia in South Africa (arguably the first post-Roman icon or cult wine). And again when I tasted a Cresta Blanca late harvest Semillon from the 1950s here in California (primordial roots of the modern era of California winemaking).
 
I've seen remarkable Etruscan artifacts but am surprised to hear that anything good can come out of an Argiano property. It was already know for being points and international style-driven when it was bought in 2013 by a consortium led by André Esteves, a Brazilian investment banker embroiled in government corruption schemes. Few wineries could have been more off my radar screen until this fine description.

But I'd rather support the little guys (with, say, 2016 Fonterenza Rosso di Montalcino Alberello) than help fill Mr. Esteves's coffers.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
I've seen remarkable Etruscan artifacts but am surprised to hear that anything good can come out of an Argiano property. It was already know for being points and international style-driven when it was bought in 2013 by a consortium led by André Esteves, a Brazilian investment banker embroiled in government corruption schemes. Few wineries could have been more off my radar screen until this fine description.

But I'd rather support the little guys (with, say, 2016 Fonterenza Rosso di Montalcino Alberello) than help fill Mr. Esteves's coffers.

This is Castello di Argiano, owned by Giuseppe Sesti. You're thinking of Tenuta di Argiano.
 
originally posted by fillay:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
I've seen remarkable Etruscan artifacts but am surprised to hear that anything good can come out of an Argiano property. It was already know for being points and international style-driven when it was bought in 2013 by a consortium led by André Esteves, a Brazilian investment banker embroiled in government corruption schemes. Few wineries could have been more off my radar screen until this fine description.

But I'd rather support the little guys (with, say, 2016 Fonterenza Rosso di Montalcino Alberello) than help fill Mr. Esteves's coffers.

This is Castello di Argiano, owned by Giuseppe Sesti. You're thinking of Tenuta di Argiano.

Ah, thank you.
 
Back
Top