It's with a sense of awe and humility that I look back on October. This represents only the wines opened from my cellar, not the wines generously shared by all the friends I had the fortune to drink with over the course of the month. From the Southern Jeebus through Pig Picking and ending with a visit from Eric it was an embarrassment of riches and a testament to the wonderful things the world of wine has supplied me besides sustenance at the table. In case anyone is worried, we went dry for November up to this week.
2009 Domaine Pavelot (Jean-Marc et Hugues) Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru (10/1/2019)
A very good wine, but still a bit closed with the structure dominating. Given how well some other 2009s have shown for me, this was a bit surprising. Pavelot wines can be pretty rigidly structured, so my hope is that this will knit together better in a few more years. Plenty of fruit, etc. to outlast the structure. (90 points)
2017 Ch“teau de Bonnezeaux Bonnezeaux Vieille Vigne du Fief Prévost - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Bonnezeaux (10/1/2019)
This still need a bit of air after opening just like the previous bottle. Has that brassy chenin thing you can get from this part of the Loire. Very good wine and I'm looking forward to following the progress here. Not sure how these will age, but I'll try to save a bottle or two to try in a few years. (91 points)
2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (10/1/2019)
This bottle was a bit softer and not exactly creamier, but older tasting than the last bottle (but not in a linear trajectory way). Trying to find the right descriptor. Maybe a bit nuttier? Nougat? (89 points)
2011 Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Côte du Py - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (10/1/2019)
Sort of got lost in the shuffle. Seems it may be in a bit of a tweener phase. Not exactly young and trouncing you with pent up potential, but not yet quite open. I think another 2-3 years should really see it blossom. The last glass was much improved which usually bodes well. (90 points)
2013 Hobo Wine Company Grenache Sceales Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley (10/2/2019)
IMO, this is the best grenache made in America. Unfortunately, it was such a tough sell that Kenny stopped making it. From 100+ year old dry farmed (an maybe own rooted) vines in Alexander Valley. The nose is a warm red berry compote with layers of bark-type spices and a few herbs that aren't too aggressive. I've said this before, and scoff if you will, but this really reminds me of Rayas, or at least Theodoric Grand Pin (but really more Rayas) with it's litheness and grace. I think Pax still makes a wine from this vineyard, but it just isn't as good. (93 points)
2010 Flavio Roddolo Barbera d'Alba Superiore Bricco Appiani - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba Superiore (10/3/2019)
We love this wine. Earthy, leathery cherry compote and kirsch. Has a real savory, tobacco edge to it. Very well balanced and ready to go and this is the current release. Excellent with food. (92 points)
2007 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (10/4/2019)
A spicier more brioche-y bottle. Maybe that was in comparison with the Filaine, Agrapart and Prevost at the table. Still consistently delicious. Even Champagne nerds had to agree. (94 points)
2012 Agrapart & Fils Champagne Grand Cru L'Avizoise - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (10/4/2019)
This is my first time with this bottling from Agrapart having enjoyed the 7 crus, Terroir and Mineral. Different in style from those, it seems. I expected something super sharp and racy and while it is structured the overall impression was one of density. I really think this needs a few years to come together and then, watch out. (93 points)
1996 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Ghemme Collis Carellae - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Ghemme (10/4/2019)
This showed fabulously. It has really developed a bottle sweetness and some sous-bois and other tertiary notes. The fruit and florals tend towards the dried and the tannin is a light frame, not a wall. I think the Giacosa didn't wipe the floor with it because it was much further on the evolutionary path. Purchased in situ last year during our tour of the Alto Piedmont. (94 points)
1996 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/4/2019)
It is impossible to write about this wine or to even evaluate it fairly without the elephant, nay the dragon, that stomped all over the room. That was the 1996 Giacosa Asili Riserva. I can't remember a time when a wine so thoroughly outclassed everything else on the table. The depth of fruit made this Conterno Francia seem very lean by comparison. Showed very ferrous and limestoney with strict rules on how much leg the fruit could show. I'll need to have this again to truly judge its potential. (92 points)
1996 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/4/2019)
Another victim of the Giacosa. I wanted to open this for the assembled geeks who probably poo-poo all modernists (and modernism was a problem, but they did farm better and that legacy, like Accad, is important) and a bottle not too long ago showed really well and was a nice surprise. Giacosa made it look clumsy and dry. (89 points)
1996 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/4/2019)
And this is where the Giacosing of the evening gets really absurd. I KNOW this is a very good wine but because it is more savory it fades against the Giacosa. I mean what was really going on with the 1996s Red Labels? The crazy thing is that the 1996 Falletto and Asili taste more like each other than they do like other wines from 1996. It's that crazy, deep succulent fruit. I mean, what the fuck? I generally think that folks are say that only Red Labels are truly world class nebbiolo are asshats and probably bankers but maybe they're right, at least in 1996. I've also never had a Red Label from other vintages so thoroughly control an evening. I can't tell whether I'm thankful to Kirk or pissed off at him for opening this. (90 points)
1999 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (10/5/2019)
Well, I didn't wait 5 more years. We needed this for comparison with another 1999 Burgundy at the Souther Jeeb. It showed pretty much like my bottle from 2018. Deeply concentrated and with that "almost medicinal" thing that Tanzer likes to use. Seriously, I'm going to wait a few years next time. (92 points)
2013 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (10/5/2019)
For comparison with the Tremblay version at the Southern Jeebus. While one of the things that I love about Mugneret-Gibourg wines is that they are generally enjoyable no matter what age (except, strangely, for the Vonse). While this was enjoyable and had the flint and spice combo on the nose that's so great, it was crunchy and a bit unyielding. There is a lot in reserve here and it should be a great bottle with some more time, I think another 3-4 years. (91 points)
1999 Noël Verset Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (10/5/2019)
Part of maybe the best line-up of wines I've had all year (as befitting the Southern Jeebus). Paired with the 1995 Verset and the 2006 Gonon Vielles Vignes. I thought this slightly shaded the 1995 due to the purity of the fruit versus the beautiful rusticity. Really something ineffable about the wine and certainly impossible for me to put into words. When people talk about wine with soul, this is what they mean, or anyway, it is what I mean. (97 points)
1999 Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (10/5/2019)
This was fascinating since we had all 3 of the 1999 Allemand Cornas in attendance, including the elusive Sans Soufre. The Reynard was my favorite probably because of the depth of fruit. Honestly, though, none of the Allemand were at the level of the Verset, which was a bit of a surprise since I expected them to be, albeit with a less rustic expression. Seems like it could still use a minute, either that or it might always have just the slightest blocky-ness. (94 points)
1999 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (10/5/2019)
While this was less deep than the Reynard it felt more like the Sans Soufre on the palate though a bit more herbal. Less blocky than the Reynards and silkier but lacks the depth. Splitting hairs among excellent wines. (93 points)
2017 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Beaujolais Cuvée l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais (10/7/2019)
This is a fun and generous bottle of Ancien. Didn't last long on a lovely fall afternoon. (90 points)
2009 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina Riserva Bucerchiale - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina (10/7/2019)
So, this is another good bottle, so that's 2 out of 4 thus far. Everything I want from a maturing Chianti. Again, not lacking in structure (Bucerchiale always seems to have plenty) but not backwards either. Excellent at the table. (92 points)
2016 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (10/8/2019)
Very typical Coudert and while perfectly lovely, still needs some time to come together. It's interesting how these wines really refuse to show you much aromatically before they want to. Give it another 2-3 years. (90 points)
2008 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (10/8/2019)
A light and wispy version of this wine. Really lovely nose of red fruits, fading flowers and mineral tang. On the palate it is light and still a wee bit taught. With the right dish, in this case duck rillettes, this really comports itself nicely. Not sure what the upside is. (91 points)
2016 Monteraponi Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (10/10/2019)
Consistent with previous bottles. Archetypal Radda Chianti for me. I love the earthy and savory elements to the fruit. (91 points)
2007 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (10/12/2019)
Just consistently excellent. Something about the depth of fruit and gentle layers of this wine really captures me. (94 points)
1998 Domaine Charvin Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape (10/12/2019)
With my Mom who loves Ch“teauneuf. Fully resolved and maybe a bit on the quieter side. The fruit compote has a drier element to it now and you get more savory herbs and leather. Probably my second favorite Ch“teauneuf producer and consistently lovely. (92 points)
2015 Gilbert Picq & ses Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vosgros - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (10/15/2019)
Corked (NR/flawed)
2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (10/15/2019)
It's really interesting how these are showing now, with a sullenness to start and then slowing showing the minerals and bright yellow fruits. A little bit of the edge has been shaved off and maybe a hint of Meursault nuttiness sneaking in. Fichet is a gem, though. (92 points)
2009 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (10/17/2019)
OK, so I'm not being careful with my stash. I just want to drink this all the time. Eventually, I'll run out. Another awesome bottle. (94 points)
2010 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (10/17/2019)
Strangely disjoint the first night, then much more like other bottles and recognizable as itself the next day. Hence, the lower score. (91 points)
2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett #12 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/17/2019)
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and what I behold is beauty. (92 points)
2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (10/17/2019)
Another excellent bottle of this consistently excellent wine. (92 points)
2012 Rhys Chardonnay Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (10/18/2019)
Good CA chardonnay that didn't really leave a huge impression. We weren't studying it, but it didn't jump out at me the way the Clisson did. (90 points)
2012 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Clisson - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine (10/18/2019)
As complete a bottle of Clisson as I can remember, maybe the 3L makes it seem even creamier. Cream of granite and yellow fruits with some layered autolytic notes. Fantastic with whole snapper on the grill (the snapper themselves were beautiful, spear caught NC fish). In the pantheon of Pépière , this is not the oyster wine, this is the fish and duck rilletes wine. I could drink 6 or 9L of this. (94 points)
2014 Koutsoyannopoulos (Volcan Wines) Assyrtiko Ksera Homata Single Vineyard - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (10/18/2019)
Undoubtedly a good wine, but I found it confusing. I could feel the nature of assyrtiko trying to burst through, but there are the oak and other notes that I find confusing. It's like 2 things at once and can't decide which to be. (88 points)
2007 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (10/19/2019)
Another excellent bottle. It's been showing the same way for about a year. (94 points)
2012 Roagna Barbaresco Pajè - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (10/19/2019)
Wow! This was a shocker! Really open and inviting. Spices, dried flowers and some herbs surround the cherry fruit. Very refined and balanced and, dare I say, really drinking well, perhaps ready. Seamless mouthfeel where you sense the structure rather than have it imposed on you, the fruit and other flavors are just draped over top. Really excellent. (94 points)
2015 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #15 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/19/2019)
Unlike the 2016 and 2017, there is a bit of perceptible sweetness in this wine (a different füder, I believe) that offsets the Eastern NC sauce of the whole hog barbecue. I feel privileged to drink so much Falkenstein as such reasonable prices. (92 points)
1996 François Pinon Vouvray 1er Trie - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/19/2019)
This was one of the bottles where the burnt sugar and a touch more sweetness comes out. Fantastic with cheese. (92 points)
2009 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (10/19/2019)
Starts out really juicy for a Coudert, which I attribute to the year. After an hour or so, the structure perks up only to calm down after another hour. It's cool to drink this from the 3L to watch it change over the course of several hours. I've found that Beaujolais is an excellent foil to NC whole hog barbecue. BTW, this is also awesome out of 750. (92 points)
1999 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/19/2019)
An interesting showing. Much like the 1996 at the Southern Jeeb when this is drank with more fully fruited wines, the leanness and precision really sticks out. It was much more strict than the 2012 Roagna, for example (and definitely more than the Allemand). Has a real limestone feel to it. Great shape to the tannin and excellent length. I may try another bottle on its own soon or wait a few more years for the structure to melt a bit. (92 points)
2005 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (10/19/2019)
Less viscerally thrilling than a bottle last year but deeper and more imposing (which I guess isn't much of a surprise given the magnum format). Still has the fruit slathered over granite feel that Allemand gets. Great nose folds in purple flowers and earthy/leathery notes. Still on the upswing. I'll try another 750 next year and save the mags for 3-5 more years. (94 points)
2008 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (10/20/2019)
This magnum was a wedding gift from Matthieu. I've never seen a magnum of Croix Boissée before (and I've tried to talk him into bottling some) so it was a great pleasure to share with my out-of-town guests. I don't think that 2008 was a particularly advantageous vintage in the central Loire but this is certainly an excellent wine, as Matthieu seems to be able to do no matter the year. What jumps out is that classic red fruit on limestone nose that is so classic to Croix Boissée in the same way that the dark earth note is to Grézeaux. Not fully resolved, but resolved enough that the tannin support the wine rather than control it. Fantastic with the duck where the protein and fat are enough to melt the structure and I just taste the dish and the fruit of the wine. Of course there are the purple flowers and some herbal notes but it is mostly the crunchy red fruit and limestone. Bravo and thank you, Matthieu. (93 points)
2016 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #3 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/20/2019)
The sense of depth and weightlessness is magic. (92 points)
2011 Domaine Rollin Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (10/26/2019)
This was delightful! A true lunchtime Burgundy. Seems perfectly resolved and poised from this "lesser" vintage. A slender wine but with a core of fruit and a nice latticed structure. I'm really glad we tried this. (92 points)
2014 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (10/26/2019)
This wine continues to be fulsome and excellent. There isn't a better value in chardonnay from anywhere. I wish I had magnums. (92 points)
2012 Domaine Rollin Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (10/26/2019)
This was much more backward than the 2011 and nowhere near as pleasurable. You can tell that it ultimately will probably be the "better" wine. It's certainly deeper with more fruit and structure with lots of minerals mixed in with the tannin. Revisit in a few years. (90 points)
2010 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Ghemme Collis Breclemae - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Ghemme (10/26/2019)
MUCH better on day 2 than the day we opened it. It was tightly coiled and ferrous. It wasn't until the next day that the fruit started to spread out and the palate unclenched. Try again in a few years. (91 points)
2012 Colombera & Garella Lessona Pizzaguerra - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Lessona (10/26/2019)
I love the work that Cristiano is doing here. I would call this a filigreed wine. Lacy fruit with a mix of iron notes from the red soil, i would think. There is Earth and flowers to go with the fruit. I really like the palate presence of this, you can feel the structure but it isn't imposing or heavy. Kind of like Cristiano now that I think about it. (92 points)
2016 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #3 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/26/2019)
More excellence from Falkenstein. Honestly, they've knocked most other riesling out of our rotation. (92 points)
2009 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (10/27/2019)
Consistently great. Every single bottle has shown the same depth and poise. Re-discovering Collier was one of the best vinous things to happen to me in the last 2 years. (94 points)
1998 Noël Verset Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (10/27/2019)
This is absolute apex Cornas as well as a perfect archetype. Managed to have an almost "Burgundian" sensuousness on the palate and complexity on the nose which carried the whole spectrum from feral to flowers and everything in between. I guess I understand why folks will pay a lot for these because nothing else really comes close. I'm glad I bought these way back when, I just wish I had saved a few more than I did. I was lucky enough to have the 1995 and 1999 as well this month but the 1998 was a the top of the food chain. (99 points)
2008 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru (10/27/2019)
What a great bottle of Burgundy. It has all the Grand Cru things: soaring nose, velvety palate, endless finish. It was such an interesting juxtaposition with the Verset because it showed that they were both Grand Cru in stature. Without making a grocery list of fruits and flowers, this had everything you'd want and while it should improve for years (or decades depending on how you like these things) it was a pleasure to drink now. (95 points)
2007 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur Blanc Brézé - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (10/27/2019)
Really excellent as wine, but I can't get away from something Eric said, that it tastes more like Meursault than Brézé. While great, the Collier served alongside spoke more to the terroir and to chenin. No wonder the Burg people have glommed on to Rougeard, it's prestigious, expensive and doesn't take them out of their comfort zone. (93 points)
2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Gruyaches - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (10/27/2019)
This is entering a really interesting developmental stage where it is a little grumpy and funky when you open it and it takes a minute to get to the fruit and minerals and there are new, more mature notes mixed in. Not at the fore, but rather intertwined. (92 points)
2013 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (10/29/2019)
Didn't spend much time with this but consistent with prior bottles. (91 points)
2013 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Barbera d'Alba Pre-Phylloxera - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (10/31/2019)
This is much better than the last bottle. It has softened and opened up a bit and has some deeply penetrating fruit as well as the licorice/asphalt note that is quintessential barbera to me. I think another year or two will bring apogee. The oak has receeded, BTW. (92 points)
2015 Az. Ag. Antoniotti Odilio Coste della Sesia - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Coste della Sesia (10/31/2019)
This is a producer to keep an eye on. Shows the flesh of the year but nothing untoward or overripe. Balanced to drink now but will surely do well in the medium term. A couple years may actually bring more harmony. Classic Coste della Sesia nebbiolo. (90 points)
2009 Domaine Pavelot (Jean-Marc et Hugues) Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru (10/1/2019)
A very good wine, but still a bit closed with the structure dominating. Given how well some other 2009s have shown for me, this was a bit surprising. Pavelot wines can be pretty rigidly structured, so my hope is that this will knit together better in a few more years. Plenty of fruit, etc. to outlast the structure. (90 points)
2017 Ch“teau de Bonnezeaux Bonnezeaux Vieille Vigne du Fief Prévost - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Bonnezeaux (10/1/2019)
This still need a bit of air after opening just like the previous bottle. Has that brassy chenin thing you can get from this part of the Loire. Very good wine and I'm looking forward to following the progress here. Not sure how these will age, but I'll try to save a bottle or two to try in a few years. (91 points)
2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (10/1/2019)
This bottle was a bit softer and not exactly creamier, but older tasting than the last bottle (but not in a linear trajectory way). Trying to find the right descriptor. Maybe a bit nuttier? Nougat? (89 points)
2011 Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Côte du Py - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (10/1/2019)
Sort of got lost in the shuffle. Seems it may be in a bit of a tweener phase. Not exactly young and trouncing you with pent up potential, but not yet quite open. I think another 2-3 years should really see it blossom. The last glass was much improved which usually bodes well. (90 points)
2013 Hobo Wine Company Grenache Sceales Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley (10/2/2019)
IMO, this is the best grenache made in America. Unfortunately, it was such a tough sell that Kenny stopped making it. From 100+ year old dry farmed (an maybe own rooted) vines in Alexander Valley. The nose is a warm red berry compote with layers of bark-type spices and a few herbs that aren't too aggressive. I've said this before, and scoff if you will, but this really reminds me of Rayas, or at least Theodoric Grand Pin (but really more Rayas) with it's litheness and grace. I think Pax still makes a wine from this vineyard, but it just isn't as good. (93 points)
2010 Flavio Roddolo Barbera d'Alba Superiore Bricco Appiani - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba Superiore (10/3/2019)
We love this wine. Earthy, leathery cherry compote and kirsch. Has a real savory, tobacco edge to it. Very well balanced and ready to go and this is the current release. Excellent with food. (92 points)
2007 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (10/4/2019)
A spicier more brioche-y bottle. Maybe that was in comparison with the Filaine, Agrapart and Prevost at the table. Still consistently delicious. Even Champagne nerds had to agree. (94 points)
2012 Agrapart & Fils Champagne Grand Cru L'Avizoise - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (10/4/2019)
This is my first time with this bottling from Agrapart having enjoyed the 7 crus, Terroir and Mineral. Different in style from those, it seems. I expected something super sharp and racy and while it is structured the overall impression was one of density. I really think this needs a few years to come together and then, watch out. (93 points)
1996 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Ghemme Collis Carellae - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Ghemme (10/4/2019)
This showed fabulously. It has really developed a bottle sweetness and some sous-bois and other tertiary notes. The fruit and florals tend towards the dried and the tannin is a light frame, not a wall. I think the Giacosa didn't wipe the floor with it because it was much further on the evolutionary path. Purchased in situ last year during our tour of the Alto Piedmont. (94 points)
1996 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/4/2019)
It is impossible to write about this wine or to even evaluate it fairly without the elephant, nay the dragon, that stomped all over the room. That was the 1996 Giacosa Asili Riserva. I can't remember a time when a wine so thoroughly outclassed everything else on the table. The depth of fruit made this Conterno Francia seem very lean by comparison. Showed very ferrous and limestoney with strict rules on how much leg the fruit could show. I'll need to have this again to truly judge its potential. (92 points)
1996 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/4/2019)
Another victim of the Giacosa. I wanted to open this for the assembled geeks who probably poo-poo all modernists (and modernism was a problem, but they did farm better and that legacy, like Accad, is important) and a bottle not too long ago showed really well and was a nice surprise. Giacosa made it look clumsy and dry. (89 points)
1996 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/4/2019)
And this is where the Giacosing of the evening gets really absurd. I KNOW this is a very good wine but because it is more savory it fades against the Giacosa. I mean what was really going on with the 1996s Red Labels? The crazy thing is that the 1996 Falletto and Asili taste more like each other than they do like other wines from 1996. It's that crazy, deep succulent fruit. I mean, what the fuck? I generally think that folks are say that only Red Labels are truly world class nebbiolo are asshats and probably bankers but maybe they're right, at least in 1996. I've also never had a Red Label from other vintages so thoroughly control an evening. I can't tell whether I'm thankful to Kirk or pissed off at him for opening this. (90 points)
1999 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (10/5/2019)
Well, I didn't wait 5 more years. We needed this for comparison with another 1999 Burgundy at the Souther Jeeb. It showed pretty much like my bottle from 2018. Deeply concentrated and with that "almost medicinal" thing that Tanzer likes to use. Seriously, I'm going to wait a few years next time. (92 points)
2013 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (10/5/2019)
For comparison with the Tremblay version at the Southern Jeebus. While one of the things that I love about Mugneret-Gibourg wines is that they are generally enjoyable no matter what age (except, strangely, for the Vonse). While this was enjoyable and had the flint and spice combo on the nose that's so great, it was crunchy and a bit unyielding. There is a lot in reserve here and it should be a great bottle with some more time, I think another 3-4 years. (91 points)
1999 Noël Verset Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (10/5/2019)
Part of maybe the best line-up of wines I've had all year (as befitting the Southern Jeebus). Paired with the 1995 Verset and the 2006 Gonon Vielles Vignes. I thought this slightly shaded the 1995 due to the purity of the fruit versus the beautiful rusticity. Really something ineffable about the wine and certainly impossible for me to put into words. When people talk about wine with soul, this is what they mean, or anyway, it is what I mean. (97 points)
1999 Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (10/5/2019)
This was fascinating since we had all 3 of the 1999 Allemand Cornas in attendance, including the elusive Sans Soufre. The Reynard was my favorite probably because of the depth of fruit. Honestly, though, none of the Allemand were at the level of the Verset, which was a bit of a surprise since I expected them to be, albeit with a less rustic expression. Seems like it could still use a minute, either that or it might always have just the slightest blocky-ness. (94 points)
1999 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (10/5/2019)
While this was less deep than the Reynard it felt more like the Sans Soufre on the palate though a bit more herbal. Less blocky than the Reynards and silkier but lacks the depth. Splitting hairs among excellent wines. (93 points)
2017 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Beaujolais Cuvée l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais (10/7/2019)
This is a fun and generous bottle of Ancien. Didn't last long on a lovely fall afternoon. (90 points)
2009 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina Riserva Bucerchiale - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina (10/7/2019)
So, this is another good bottle, so that's 2 out of 4 thus far. Everything I want from a maturing Chianti. Again, not lacking in structure (Bucerchiale always seems to have plenty) but not backwards either. Excellent at the table. (92 points)
2016 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (10/8/2019)
Very typical Coudert and while perfectly lovely, still needs some time to come together. It's interesting how these wines really refuse to show you much aromatically before they want to. Give it another 2-3 years. (90 points)
2008 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (10/8/2019)
A light and wispy version of this wine. Really lovely nose of red fruits, fading flowers and mineral tang. On the palate it is light and still a wee bit taught. With the right dish, in this case duck rillettes, this really comports itself nicely. Not sure what the upside is. (91 points)
2016 Monteraponi Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (10/10/2019)
Consistent with previous bottles. Archetypal Radda Chianti for me. I love the earthy and savory elements to the fruit. (91 points)
2007 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (10/12/2019)
Just consistently excellent. Something about the depth of fruit and gentle layers of this wine really captures me. (94 points)
1998 Domaine Charvin Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape (10/12/2019)
With my Mom who loves Ch“teauneuf. Fully resolved and maybe a bit on the quieter side. The fruit compote has a drier element to it now and you get more savory herbs and leather. Probably my second favorite Ch“teauneuf producer and consistently lovely. (92 points)
2015 Gilbert Picq & ses Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vosgros - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (10/15/2019)
Corked (NR/flawed)
2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (10/15/2019)
It's really interesting how these are showing now, with a sullenness to start and then slowing showing the minerals and bright yellow fruits. A little bit of the edge has been shaved off and maybe a hint of Meursault nuttiness sneaking in. Fichet is a gem, though. (92 points)
2009 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (10/17/2019)
OK, so I'm not being careful with my stash. I just want to drink this all the time. Eventually, I'll run out. Another awesome bottle. (94 points)
2010 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (10/17/2019)
Strangely disjoint the first night, then much more like other bottles and recognizable as itself the next day. Hence, the lower score. (91 points)
2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett #12 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/17/2019)
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and what I behold is beauty. (92 points)
2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (10/17/2019)
Another excellent bottle of this consistently excellent wine. (92 points)
2012 Rhys Chardonnay Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (10/18/2019)
Good CA chardonnay that didn't really leave a huge impression. We weren't studying it, but it didn't jump out at me the way the Clisson did. (90 points)
2012 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Clisson - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine (10/18/2019)
As complete a bottle of Clisson as I can remember, maybe the 3L makes it seem even creamier. Cream of granite and yellow fruits with some layered autolytic notes. Fantastic with whole snapper on the grill (the snapper themselves were beautiful, spear caught NC fish). In the pantheon of Pépière , this is not the oyster wine, this is the fish and duck rilletes wine. I could drink 6 or 9L of this. (94 points)
2014 Koutsoyannopoulos (Volcan Wines) Assyrtiko Ksera Homata Single Vineyard - Greece, Aegean, Cyclades, Santorini (10/18/2019)
Undoubtedly a good wine, but I found it confusing. I could feel the nature of assyrtiko trying to burst through, but there are the oak and other notes that I find confusing. It's like 2 things at once and can't decide which to be. (88 points)
2007 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (10/19/2019)
Another excellent bottle. It's been showing the same way for about a year. (94 points)
2012 Roagna Barbaresco Pajè - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (10/19/2019)
Wow! This was a shocker! Really open and inviting. Spices, dried flowers and some herbs surround the cherry fruit. Very refined and balanced and, dare I say, really drinking well, perhaps ready. Seamless mouthfeel where you sense the structure rather than have it imposed on you, the fruit and other flavors are just draped over top. Really excellent. (94 points)
2015 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #15 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/19/2019)
Unlike the 2016 and 2017, there is a bit of perceptible sweetness in this wine (a different füder, I believe) that offsets the Eastern NC sauce of the whole hog barbecue. I feel privileged to drink so much Falkenstein as such reasonable prices. (92 points)
1996 François Pinon Vouvray 1er Trie - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/19/2019)
This was one of the bottles where the burnt sugar and a touch more sweetness comes out. Fantastic with cheese. (92 points)
2009 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (10/19/2019)
Starts out really juicy for a Coudert, which I attribute to the year. After an hour or so, the structure perks up only to calm down after another hour. It's cool to drink this from the 3L to watch it change over the course of several hours. I've found that Beaujolais is an excellent foil to NC whole hog barbecue. BTW, this is also awesome out of 750. (92 points)
1999 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/19/2019)
An interesting showing. Much like the 1996 at the Southern Jeeb when this is drank with more fully fruited wines, the leanness and precision really sticks out. It was much more strict than the 2012 Roagna, for example (and definitely more than the Allemand). Has a real limestone feel to it. Great shape to the tannin and excellent length. I may try another bottle on its own soon or wait a few more years for the structure to melt a bit. (92 points)
2005 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (10/19/2019)
Less viscerally thrilling than a bottle last year but deeper and more imposing (which I guess isn't much of a surprise given the magnum format). Still has the fruit slathered over granite feel that Allemand gets. Great nose folds in purple flowers and earthy/leathery notes. Still on the upswing. I'll try another 750 next year and save the mags for 3-5 more years. (94 points)
2008 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (10/20/2019)
This magnum was a wedding gift from Matthieu. I've never seen a magnum of Croix Boissée before (and I've tried to talk him into bottling some) so it was a great pleasure to share with my out-of-town guests. I don't think that 2008 was a particularly advantageous vintage in the central Loire but this is certainly an excellent wine, as Matthieu seems to be able to do no matter the year. What jumps out is that classic red fruit on limestone nose that is so classic to Croix Boissée in the same way that the dark earth note is to Grézeaux. Not fully resolved, but resolved enough that the tannin support the wine rather than control it. Fantastic with the duck where the protein and fat are enough to melt the structure and I just taste the dish and the fruit of the wine. Of course there are the purple flowers and some herbal notes but it is mostly the crunchy red fruit and limestone. Bravo and thank you, Matthieu. (93 points)
2016 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #3 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/20/2019)
The sense of depth and weightlessness is magic. (92 points)
2011 Domaine Rollin Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (10/26/2019)
This was delightful! A true lunchtime Burgundy. Seems perfectly resolved and poised from this "lesser" vintage. A slender wine but with a core of fruit and a nice latticed structure. I'm really glad we tried this. (92 points)
2014 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (10/26/2019)
This wine continues to be fulsome and excellent. There isn't a better value in chardonnay from anywhere. I wish I had magnums. (92 points)
2012 Domaine Rollin Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (10/26/2019)
This was much more backward than the 2011 and nowhere near as pleasurable. You can tell that it ultimately will probably be the "better" wine. It's certainly deeper with more fruit and structure with lots of minerals mixed in with the tannin. Revisit in a few years. (90 points)
2010 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Ghemme Collis Breclemae - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Ghemme (10/26/2019)
MUCH better on day 2 than the day we opened it. It was tightly coiled and ferrous. It wasn't until the next day that the fruit started to spread out and the palate unclenched. Try again in a few years. (91 points)
2012 Colombera & Garella Lessona Pizzaguerra - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Lessona (10/26/2019)
I love the work that Cristiano is doing here. I would call this a filigreed wine. Lacy fruit with a mix of iron notes from the red soil, i would think. There is Earth and flowers to go with the fruit. I really like the palate presence of this, you can feel the structure but it isn't imposing or heavy. Kind of like Cristiano now that I think about it. (92 points)
2016 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #3 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/26/2019)
More excellence from Falkenstein. Honestly, they've knocked most other riesling out of our rotation. (92 points)
2009 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (10/27/2019)
Consistently great. Every single bottle has shown the same depth and poise. Re-discovering Collier was one of the best vinous things to happen to me in the last 2 years. (94 points)
1998 Noël Verset Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (10/27/2019)
This is absolute apex Cornas as well as a perfect archetype. Managed to have an almost "Burgundian" sensuousness on the palate and complexity on the nose which carried the whole spectrum from feral to flowers and everything in between. I guess I understand why folks will pay a lot for these because nothing else really comes close. I'm glad I bought these way back when, I just wish I had saved a few more than I did. I was lucky enough to have the 1995 and 1999 as well this month but the 1998 was a the top of the food chain. (99 points)
2008 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru (10/27/2019)
What a great bottle of Burgundy. It has all the Grand Cru things: soaring nose, velvety palate, endless finish. It was such an interesting juxtaposition with the Verset because it showed that they were both Grand Cru in stature. Without making a grocery list of fruits and flowers, this had everything you'd want and while it should improve for years (or decades depending on how you like these things) it was a pleasure to drink now. (95 points)
2007 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur Blanc Brézé - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (10/27/2019)
Really excellent as wine, but I can't get away from something Eric said, that it tastes more like Meursault than Brézé. While great, the Collier served alongside spoke more to the terroir and to chenin. No wonder the Burg people have glommed on to Rougeard, it's prestigious, expensive and doesn't take them out of their comfort zone. (93 points)
2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Gruyaches - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (10/27/2019)
This is entering a really interesting developmental stage where it is a little grumpy and funky when you open it and it takes a minute to get to the fruit and minerals and there are new, more mature notes mixed in. Not at the fore, but rather intertwined. (92 points)
2013 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (10/29/2019)
Didn't spend much time with this but consistent with prior bottles. (91 points)
2013 Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno Barbera d'Alba Pre-Phylloxera - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (10/31/2019)
This is much better than the last bottle. It has softened and opened up a bit and has some deeply penetrating fruit as well as the licorice/asphalt note that is quintessential barbera to me. I think another year or two will bring apogee. The oak has receeded, BTW. (92 points)
2015 Az. Ag. Antoniotti Odilio Coste della Sesia - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Coste della Sesia (10/31/2019)
This is a producer to keep an eye on. Shows the flesh of the year but nothing untoward or overripe. Balanced to drink now but will surely do well in the medium term. A couple years may actually bring more harmony. Classic Coste della Sesia nebbiolo. (90 points)