Because this only includes bottles from my cellar, it doesn't include the best bottle I had in December and one of the best bottles of wine I had this year, a 1999 Faurie Hermitage that a friend brought to dinner on the 22nd. The complexity and depth were up there with the best bottles of Verset and Gonon that I had this year and better than any Allemand or Chave. It had the red capsule and was imported by Weygandt so I think it was either the assemblage or the Bessards.
2008 Guy Larmandier Champagne Signé François Vieilles Vignes Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (12/1/2019)
Consistent with the last bottle. Seems richer than I would expect from a non-dosé Champagne, especially a blanc de blancs from Cramant. Larmandier was among the first grower Champagnes I got into and I think I'm circling back. (93 points)
2018 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine (12/2/2019)
Not my favorite vintage for this. Certainly didn't work all that great with oysters and is much more enjoyable on its own. Lacks the mineral thrust of the best vintages, but does have a generous amount of fruit. (89 points)
2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (12/2/2019)
A really crystalline bottle of this. Great fruit and mineral drive. (93 points)
2009 Ch“teau Lafon-Rochet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (12/4/2019)
Not nearly as open or integrated as the 2005 a couple weeks prior. Kind of lactic and a bit oaky with knees and elbows everywhere. Not backwards but still out of sorts. Good material. I think when things come together it will be quite good in a couple years. (89 points)
2017 Dönnhoff Felsenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Nahe (12/4/2019)
Pungent notes of grape skin, lime flower and fresh bay leaf. Round but well delineated palate. Great thrust and drive. I haven't had this before so I was happy to try it. I'd drink it again at the drop of a hat. (92 points)
2000 Louis Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/4/2019)
My last bottle. A bit dilute but still aromatically complex. This is completely resolved and the only reason to hold it is if you want everything tertiary. Doesn't have that extra kick and depth of fruit that Jaodt Chapelle can have. (90 points)
2013 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/6/2019)
Consistent with prior bottles. (91 points)
2006 Antoniolo Gattinara San Francesco - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara (12/6/2019)
Delicious right out of the gate. Deep dark cherry fruit in a juicy package with spices and leather that sneak in with the tannin. Really loving the spot this is in right now. (93 points)
2010 Flavio Roddolo Barbera d'Alba Superiore Bricco Appiani - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba Superiore (12/6/2019)
Consistent with previous bottles. Such a joy at the table. (91 points)
2009 Louis Roederer Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne (12/6/2019)
Consistent with previous bottles. (91 points)
2015 Az. Ag. Antoniotti Odilio Coste della Sesia - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Coste della Sesia (12/6/2019)
Another very good bottle of this, consistent with the last one except maybe a touch more stern. (89 points)
2015 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d'Alba Cerretta - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (12/6/2019)
Pulsing, energetic and generous. Ample fruit, mostly berries, with some herby overlay and a hint of leather underneath. Juicy and all to easy to drink. Great barbera. I really miss the old days when Conterno barbera was cheap. (92 points)
2012 Azienda Agricola Platinetti Guido Ghemme Vigna Ronco Maso - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Ghemme (12/6/2019)
The last bottle of this showed better but this is still a very nice rendition of Alto Piemonte nebbiolo. Snappy with fine tannins good fruit and complexity, always with good acidity. It just didn't show the depth of the last bottle. This is a good producer who keeps getting better. We really enjoyed our visit there. (90 points)
1996 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (12/6/2019)
My last bottle of this and it doesn't have the clarity of previous bottles, but it has a bit more older chenin brown sugar notes to complement the structure. Resonant and a bit lacquered. Not going quietly into the night, this one. (93 points)
2002 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (12/9/2019)
Well, I guess I can't up on Fourrier yet. Velvety with complex notes of red fruits, earth, spice and a bit of sous-bois. Really complete, long and delicious. Wonderful nose. Everything I was hoping it would be when I bought it 15 years ago. (96 points)
2006 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (12/9/2019)
Dark earth surrounding really deep red and black fruits. The sense of depth here is really profound and the length takes your breath away a bit. A great bottle of wine. (96 points)
2009 Louis Roederer Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne (12/9/2019)
Consistent with prior bottles. Crowd pleaser. (91 points)
2016 Alexandre Filaine Champagne Cuvée Spéciale - France, Champagne (12/11/2019)
Gossamer and filigreed. So elegant and gentle while showing a bunch of complexity. This wine really resonates with me and I preferred it to the 2008 Cristal served alongside. This is my new Champagne crush, thanks Sophie. (93 points)
2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne (12/11/2019)
I guess I'll depart from the herd a bit here. This was more impressive than enjoyable. Perhaps it will be better with some age, I sure hope so for the price. I guess I want my Champagne either a bit more suave or with a bit more personality. (92 points)
NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée n° 741 Extra-Brut - France, Champagne (12/12/2019)
Doesn't show as lean as the low dosage would have you think. Easy going with a hint of biscuit and lemon curd. Very nice. I'll be interested to see if it picks up some more intensity with a bit of age. (91 points)
2009 Louis Roederer Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne (12/17/2019)
Consistent with previous bottles. Very good but a bit boring. (91 points)
NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée n° 741 Extra-Brut - France, Champagne (12/17/2019)
Consistent with previous bottle. (91 points)
2010 Flavio Roddolo Barbera d'Alba Superiore Bricco Appiani - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba Superiore (12/19/2019)
Consistent with previous bottles. Really cool earth and leather edge to the fruit. Hi toned and lovely. Great with food. (91 points)
2005 Eric Texier Côte-Rôtie Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (12/22/2019)
Took a long time to open up and the last taste was maybe the best. A more earthy and savory side of syrah. Good tension and structure. Approaching perfect timing, maybe a few more years. Unfortunately, I don't have any other bottles. (93 points)
2007 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (12/22/2019)
Another excellent bottle. For perspective, I preferred it to the Cristal I had a couple days before (2008) and a couple days after (2002). (94 points)
2012 Ceritas Chardonnay Porter-Bass Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (12/22/2019)
Really fine expression of chardonnay. Chalky minerals and lean yellow fruits and white flowers. Will probably be even better in a couple of years but I'll never find out as this is my last bottle. At the top of the CA hierarchy. (93 points)
2007 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/22/2019)
The kind of funky tropical notes you would expect from this wine, but not heavy at all. In fact, those notes are just a part of the wine which is more about deep yellow fruit, flowers, herbs and minerals. Great mouthfeel. (93 points)
2005 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (12/22/2019)
Still very young and coiled. You can sense the deep fruit under the chalkiness. More of a Burgundian nose. Tensile and fresh. A few more years will do it good and maybe ten for magnums like this one. (92 points)
1974 Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley (12/23/2019)
These old Ric Forman Sterlings are really magic. Has held up well, nice balance of acid and just a wisp of tannin. Lots of dried fruits, herbs a bit of smoke and earth. I love the gentle thrust on the finish. (94 points)
1998 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (12/23/2019)
A great bottle of this. Has that lovely gunpowder/graphite note this vineyard is famous for with a nice bead of acidity that focuses the generous fruit. Complete wine with a velvety mouthfeel. Worth cellaring all these years. (94 points)
2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne (12/24/2019)
Nice enough, I suppose, just a bit boring. Too expensive for the experience, IMO. (92 points)
1999 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru (12/24/2019)
A deep but not quite open bottle of this. I was hoping 20 years would be a nice spot. Either it is an off night (nothing showed particularly well) or I'm hitting this bottle in a tweener zone. There's plenty of depth of fruit and complexity it's just a bit awkward and muted. Probably better a few years ago or in a few years. (92 points)
2016 Alexandre Filaine Champagne Cuvée Spéciale - France, Champagne (12/24/2019)
I love this, so filigreed and elegant. Wraps the palate in flavors that are on the lighter and yellow pitted fruit side. Not particularly brioche-like, maybe cream puff pastry. (93 points)
1989 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/24/2019)
A disappointing bottle. Decanted around 3PM and returned to the bottle for dinner at 8PM. Maybe too much air? Never really opened and spread out. Had that disjointed balsamic note that is neither here nor there. Herbal and somewhat astringent notes took away from the fruit. Maybe my expectations were too high. (91 points)
1978 Ch“teau Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (12/24/2019)
So this was a night of disappointments ending with this wine. All the classic claret notes were there but it showed a bit of mustiness and some astringency. Maybe not a totally clean bottle. An HDH auction purchase. (90 points)
NV Etienne Calsac Champagne Les Rocheforts Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (12/24/2019)
This was good enough, but I was expecting a bit more tension and complexity. Almost seemed a bit loose. I'd like to try it again because I didn't get a chance to pay much attention. (90 points)
2009 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Cuvée Cot - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (12/24/2019)
Not the best bottle of this that I've had, much more closed than the last bottle (which was magnificent). Such a unique experience and unlike any other wine on the planet. The snappiness of the earth and leather to the fruit and the sense of deep earth on the palate are still haunting even if it isn't at its most friendly. (94 points)
NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée n° 741 Extra-Brut - France, Champagne (12/24/2019)
Consistent with previous bottles, but maybe shone a little brighter being paired with oysters. (92 points)
2014 Cigliuti Barbaresco Serraboella - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (12/26/2019)
All potential now. I waited too long to try it and now this vintage is gone from my market, oh well. Classic Barbaresco so I guess there aren't barriques there anymore. (92 points)
2008 Guy Larmandier Champagne Signé François Vieilles Vignes Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (12/1/2019)
Consistent with the last bottle. Seems richer than I would expect from a non-dosé Champagne, especially a blanc de blancs from Cramant. Larmandier was among the first grower Champagnes I got into and I think I'm circling back. (93 points)
2018 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine (12/2/2019)
Not my favorite vintage for this. Certainly didn't work all that great with oysters and is much more enjoyable on its own. Lacks the mineral thrust of the best vintages, but does have a generous amount of fruit. (89 points)
2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (12/2/2019)
A really crystalline bottle of this. Great fruit and mineral drive. (93 points)
2009 Ch“teau Lafon-Rochet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (12/4/2019)
Not nearly as open or integrated as the 2005 a couple weeks prior. Kind of lactic and a bit oaky with knees and elbows everywhere. Not backwards but still out of sorts. Good material. I think when things come together it will be quite good in a couple years. (89 points)
2017 Dönnhoff Felsenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Nahe (12/4/2019)
Pungent notes of grape skin, lime flower and fresh bay leaf. Round but well delineated palate. Great thrust and drive. I haven't had this before so I was happy to try it. I'd drink it again at the drop of a hat. (92 points)
2000 Louis Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/4/2019)
My last bottle. A bit dilute but still aromatically complex. This is completely resolved and the only reason to hold it is if you want everything tertiary. Doesn't have that extra kick and depth of fruit that Jaodt Chapelle can have. (90 points)
2013 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/6/2019)
Consistent with prior bottles. (91 points)
2006 Antoniolo Gattinara San Francesco - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara (12/6/2019)
Delicious right out of the gate. Deep dark cherry fruit in a juicy package with spices and leather that sneak in with the tannin. Really loving the spot this is in right now. (93 points)
2010 Flavio Roddolo Barbera d'Alba Superiore Bricco Appiani - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba Superiore (12/6/2019)
Consistent with previous bottles. Such a joy at the table. (91 points)
2009 Louis Roederer Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne (12/6/2019)
Consistent with previous bottles. (91 points)
2015 Az. Ag. Antoniotti Odilio Coste della Sesia - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Coste della Sesia (12/6/2019)
Another very good bottle of this, consistent with the last one except maybe a touch more stern. (89 points)
2015 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d'Alba Cerretta - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (12/6/2019)
Pulsing, energetic and generous. Ample fruit, mostly berries, with some herby overlay and a hint of leather underneath. Juicy and all to easy to drink. Great barbera. I really miss the old days when Conterno barbera was cheap. (92 points)
2012 Azienda Agricola Platinetti Guido Ghemme Vigna Ronco Maso - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Ghemme (12/6/2019)
The last bottle of this showed better but this is still a very nice rendition of Alto Piemonte nebbiolo. Snappy with fine tannins good fruit and complexity, always with good acidity. It just didn't show the depth of the last bottle. This is a good producer who keeps getting better. We really enjoyed our visit there. (90 points)
1996 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (12/6/2019)
My last bottle of this and it doesn't have the clarity of previous bottles, but it has a bit more older chenin brown sugar notes to complement the structure. Resonant and a bit lacquered. Not going quietly into the night, this one. (93 points)
2002 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (12/9/2019)
Well, I guess I can't up on Fourrier yet. Velvety with complex notes of red fruits, earth, spice and a bit of sous-bois. Really complete, long and delicious. Wonderful nose. Everything I was hoping it would be when I bought it 15 years ago. (96 points)
2006 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (12/9/2019)
Dark earth surrounding really deep red and black fruits. The sense of depth here is really profound and the length takes your breath away a bit. A great bottle of wine. (96 points)
2009 Louis Roederer Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne (12/9/2019)
Consistent with prior bottles. Crowd pleaser. (91 points)
2016 Alexandre Filaine Champagne Cuvée Spéciale - France, Champagne (12/11/2019)
Gossamer and filigreed. So elegant and gentle while showing a bunch of complexity. This wine really resonates with me and I preferred it to the 2008 Cristal served alongside. This is my new Champagne crush, thanks Sophie. (93 points)
2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne (12/11/2019)
I guess I'll depart from the herd a bit here. This was more impressive than enjoyable. Perhaps it will be better with some age, I sure hope so for the price. I guess I want my Champagne either a bit more suave or with a bit more personality. (92 points)
NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée n° 741 Extra-Brut - France, Champagne (12/12/2019)
Doesn't show as lean as the low dosage would have you think. Easy going with a hint of biscuit and lemon curd. Very nice. I'll be interested to see if it picks up some more intensity with a bit of age. (91 points)
2009 Louis Roederer Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne (12/17/2019)
Consistent with previous bottles. Very good but a bit boring. (91 points)
NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée n° 741 Extra-Brut - France, Champagne (12/17/2019)
Consistent with previous bottle. (91 points)
2010 Flavio Roddolo Barbera d'Alba Superiore Bricco Appiani - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba Superiore (12/19/2019)
Consistent with previous bottles. Really cool earth and leather edge to the fruit. Hi toned and lovely. Great with food. (91 points)
2005 Eric Texier Côte-Rôtie Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (12/22/2019)
Took a long time to open up and the last taste was maybe the best. A more earthy and savory side of syrah. Good tension and structure. Approaching perfect timing, maybe a few more years. Unfortunately, I don't have any other bottles. (93 points)
2007 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (12/22/2019)
Another excellent bottle. For perspective, I preferred it to the Cristal I had a couple days before (2008) and a couple days after (2002). (94 points)
2012 Ceritas Chardonnay Porter-Bass Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (12/22/2019)
Really fine expression of chardonnay. Chalky minerals and lean yellow fruits and white flowers. Will probably be even better in a couple of years but I'll never find out as this is my last bottle. At the top of the CA hierarchy. (93 points)
2007 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (12/22/2019)
The kind of funky tropical notes you would expect from this wine, but not heavy at all. In fact, those notes are just a part of the wine which is more about deep yellow fruit, flowers, herbs and minerals. Great mouthfeel. (93 points)
2005 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (12/22/2019)
Still very young and coiled. You can sense the deep fruit under the chalkiness. More of a Burgundian nose. Tensile and fresh. A few more years will do it good and maybe ten for magnums like this one. (92 points)
1974 Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley (12/23/2019)
These old Ric Forman Sterlings are really magic. Has held up well, nice balance of acid and just a wisp of tannin. Lots of dried fruits, herbs a bit of smoke and earth. I love the gentle thrust on the finish. (94 points)
1998 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (12/23/2019)
A great bottle of this. Has that lovely gunpowder/graphite note this vineyard is famous for with a nice bead of acidity that focuses the generous fruit. Complete wine with a velvety mouthfeel. Worth cellaring all these years. (94 points)
2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne (12/24/2019)
Nice enough, I suppose, just a bit boring. Too expensive for the experience, IMO. (92 points)
1999 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru (12/24/2019)
A deep but not quite open bottle of this. I was hoping 20 years would be a nice spot. Either it is an off night (nothing showed particularly well) or I'm hitting this bottle in a tweener zone. There's plenty of depth of fruit and complexity it's just a bit awkward and muted. Probably better a few years ago or in a few years. (92 points)
2016 Alexandre Filaine Champagne Cuvée Spéciale - France, Champagne (12/24/2019)
I love this, so filigreed and elegant. Wraps the palate in flavors that are on the lighter and yellow pitted fruit side. Not particularly brioche-like, maybe cream puff pastry. (93 points)
1989 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/24/2019)
A disappointing bottle. Decanted around 3PM and returned to the bottle for dinner at 8PM. Maybe too much air? Never really opened and spread out. Had that disjointed balsamic note that is neither here nor there. Herbal and somewhat astringent notes took away from the fruit. Maybe my expectations were too high. (91 points)
1978 Ch“teau Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (12/24/2019)
So this was a night of disappointments ending with this wine. All the classic claret notes were there but it showed a bit of mustiness and some astringency. Maybe not a totally clean bottle. An HDH auction purchase. (90 points)
NV Etienne Calsac Champagne Les Rocheforts Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (12/24/2019)
This was good enough, but I was expecting a bit more tension and complexity. Almost seemed a bit loose. I'd like to try it again because I didn't get a chance to pay much attention. (90 points)
2009 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Cuvée Cot - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (12/24/2019)
Not the best bottle of this that I've had, much more closed than the last bottle (which was magnificent). Such a unique experience and unlike any other wine on the planet. The snappiness of the earth and leather to the fruit and the sense of deep earth on the palate are still haunting even if it isn't at its most friendly. (94 points)
NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée n° 741 Extra-Brut - France, Champagne (12/24/2019)
Consistent with previous bottles, but maybe shone a little brighter being paired with oysters. (92 points)
2014 Cigliuti Barbaresco Serraboella - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (12/26/2019)
All potential now. I waited too long to try it and now this vintage is gone from my market, oh well. Classic Barbaresco so I guess there aren't barriques there anymore. (92 points)