Isolation continues with the Peter Creasey Challenge

Mark Anisman

Mark Anisman
good morning or at least a proffered salutation that is time zone appropriate,

(and i apologize in advance if this offends any one's sensibilities.)

mr creasey is wonderfully keen on sharing his dinner groups food and wine outings, and with a healthy dollop of his good nature in reserve, he oft takes a crumb of flak. i do so appreciate his offerings and commentary.

but in these days of our pickings of comestibles being squeezed by fridge left overs, pedestrian pantry products, and dried pasta and beans several decades past their "consume by" dates, and punctuated by a lack of produce depth from hunting and gathering limited to less than weekly, it can be tough to cobble together that pairing that resides in heaven

last night we supped with an offering of rojo mole dhicken enchiladas with the 2005 Domaine de Courcel Rugiens.
the enchiladas were built on a base of rancho gordo mayocoba beans and roast chicken of 2 days age with a mole derived from a rojo paste. we did not have any cilantro, or bananas for that matter. garlic was scattered liberally (we are in California). truth be told it might be a stretch to call this conglomeration enchiladas as tortillas were not to be found in this household. we did top off our scoops of "enchiladas" with sour cream and avocados.
the Pommard was more lush and gentle than earthy and was a wine of power / concentration as one would expect from 2005. new oak was apparent albeit not dominant (and i naturally would not be surprised to learn that Courcel does not employ new oak barrels given my yak palate). refined tannins were resolved and/or masked. balanced. it was a nice tipple although i lean more towards the earthy and no oak species.

it worked. not my optimal moment in the history of food and wine pairings, but one was able to appreciate and enjoy each of the categories without one marring the other. the oak component actually is what made it work.

we thank you for digesting this missive and look forward to comments typed by well washed hands that hopefully have been adequately supplemented with applications of acqaphor.
 
Much to our surprise, the west coast of FL actually grows produce. I mean sand, you know?
But sure enough, the locals hear have taken the Farmer’s Market on-line and we are getting lovely daikon, basil, squash, greens, onions, eggs, olive bread, and so much more, all of local origin.
Since “in” is where we must be, Diane is stretching her legs in the kitchen and among other things we’ve had rice bowls with lots of fresh cut veggies, duck egg omelets, pasta with Swiss chard pesto, roasted sweet potatoes that could not have been picked but an hour ago, avocado toasts with radish and so much more.
This feels more like how we eat in CA when we are in residence there.

As for the vino, we are mostly drinking our stuff (Cowan Cellars) with some 2018 Vincent, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc mixed in. But on Tuesday the FedEx gods will provide us with a much missed selection of Chablis, etc, from our cellar in CA.
I can only imagine the pairings D will dazzle us with then.

It may not be a Pete-worthy menu, but it is a style we both love.
‘Hard not to Invite others to share though . . .
Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Much to our surprise, the west coast of FL actually grows produce. I mean sand, you know?

Yeah, but limestone underneath, so probably a GREAT place to plop down some pinot noir vines!
 
originally posted by MarkS:
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Much to our surprise, the west coast of FL actually grows produce. I mean sand, you know?

Yeah, but limestone underneath, so probably a GREAT place to plop down some pinot noir vines!
Tropical rain forest - vinifera no likey.
Best, Jim
 
Might have something interesting this evening...

Truffle Pasta Kit
· White truffle butter
· Parmigiano Reggiano
· White truffle honey
· Black truffle cream
· White truffle oil
· Black truffle oil
· Extra virgin olive oil
· Black summer truffle carpaccio
· Tagliatelle

trpaskit.jpg


Wines
· Cremant d'Alsace Arthur Metz Brut
· Hyde de Villaine Families Napa Chardonnay Carneros Hyde Vineyard '12
· Eric Texier Cotes du Rhone Chat Fou '14
· Michel Ogier Cote Rotie '00

. . . . . Pete
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman: Isolation continues with the Peter Creasey Challenge the 2005 Domaine de Courcel Rugiens. ... the Pommard was more lush and gentle than earthy and was a wine of power / concentration as one would expect from 2005. new oak was apparent albeit not dominant (and i naturally would not be surprised to learn that Courcel does not employ new oak barrels given my yak palate). refined tannins were resolved and/or masked. balanced. it was a nice tipple although i lean more towards the earthy and no oak species.

it worked. not my optimal moment in the history of food and wine pairings, but one was able to appreciate and enjoy each of the categories without one marring the other. the oak component actually is what made it work.

Mark, excellent choice of wines, in my view. The Courcel Pommards are reliably splendid. I have some of the Courcel Pommard Grand Clos des Epenots 1er Cru '07 and, if I recall correctly, my tasting notes on this wine are similar to yours on the Rugiens.

We had Monsieur Gilles de Courcel in town not too long ago and he was a wonderfully down-to-earth farmer-type man who was a delight to visit with.

. . . . . Pete
 
Tristan, yes, except it's interesting that the instructions didn't call for the white truffle honey to be used...which begs the question (sorry, Jonathan, if that's an incorrect usage) as to why they included it in the kit.

. . . . . . Pete
 
originally posted by Peter Creasey:

Tristan, yes, except it's interesting that the instructions didn't call for the white truffle honey to be used...which begs the question (sorry, Jonathan, if that's an incorrect usage) as to why they included it in the kit.

. . . . . . Pete
Red herring?
Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
originally posted by Peter Creasey:

Tristan, yes, except it's interesting that the instructions didn't call for the white truffle honey to be used...which begs the question (sorry, Jonathan, if that's an incorrect usage) as to why they included it in the kit.

. . . . . . Pete
Red herring?
Best, Jim

That's red herring quenelle l'ancienne to you, mister!

An absolutely amazing car crash of cultural cross currents. Texas strong olive oil, tagliatelle by way of Colmar, all of that dithiapentane. I only have one question: how do the bees get underground?

Performance art worthy of being an opening act for Sandra Lee of Semi-Homemade Meals.
 
originally posted by Tristan Welles:
originally posted by Florida Jim:
originally posted by Peter Creasey:

Tristan, yes, except it's interesting that the instructions didn't call for the white truffle honey to be used...which begs the question (sorry, Jonathan, if that's an incorrect usage) as to why they included it in the kit.

. . . . . . Pete
Red herring?
Best, Jim

That's red herring quenelle l'ancienne to you, mister!

An absolutely amazing car crash of cultural cross currents. Texas strong olive oil, tagliatelle by way of Colmar, all of that dithiapentane. I only have one question: how do the bees get underground?

Performance art worthy of being an opening act for Sandra Lee of Semi-Homemade Meals.

When I see that, it always brings to mind this article which Daniel Patterson wrote years ago on truffle oil.
 
originally posted by Peter Creasey:

Tristan, yes, except it's interesting that the instructions didn't call for the white truffle honey to be used...which begs the question (sorry, Jonathan, if that's an incorrect usage) as to why they included it in the kit.

. . . . . . Pete

Yes that's incorrect. Begging the question does not mean asking the question or begging for the question to be asked. It means mounting a circular argument. Write this down and memorize it, if only in memory of Chris Coad.
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman: Isolation continues with the Peter Creasey Challenge in these days of our pickings of comestibles being squeezed by fridge left overs, pedestrian pantry products, and dried pasta and beans several decades past their "consume by" dates, and punctuated by a lack of produce depth from hunting and gathering limited to less than weekly

Yes, that is a challenge. The Truffle Pasta Kit served us well with a fun and tasty evening. Fortunately, we had a video that provided instructions on how best to realize the potential of the kit.

In the skillet...



In the bowl...



And dinner is served...



We enjoyed this whole venture as it was a nice respite from "our pickings of comestibles being squeezed."

The diversity of the wines was also a nice departure from the mainstream of quarantining (albeit with no quartinis).

A beautiful Easter Eve evening was a crowning touch.

. . . . Pete
 
Jonathan, thanks for setting that straight. However, memorizing that grammar rule will be a challenge for my senior memory capacity these days.

The context of my usage seemed to beg the use of the phrase as I applied it.

. . . . Pete
 
I hear they make les croix noires at courcel
I wonder if there is benchmark version of that out there, somewhere.
Just so that I can get oriented.

And now, exiting obligatory early Spring ambiguously sarcastic mode:

"rojo mole"
...
"the oak component actually is what made it work"

But of course. Likely in conjunction with decent acidity in '05 despite courcel's somewhat late picking. Now imagine the same package at about half a degree lower with said mole.

happy drinking!
 
originally posted by Tristan Welles:
dear god; "white truffle honey"
Tut. I recently acquired some black truffle wildflower honey from a very fancy purveyor. It's quite good, though its culinary usefulness seems to be limited to a splish on blue cheese.

I also bought from them a jar of truffle "carpaccio" and it is much more enjoyable. It is also black truffle (aestivum, 'natch) slices in oil. A lot more ways to use the savory flavor.

There's no reason to ever buy really-chemically-just-like-truffle oil.

Truffle salt is generally good and useful.

Someone once gave me a jar of truffle mustard - I could not find a single food this was good with.
 
For the record, we didn't use the Texas olive oil but rather used an Italian olive oil obtained from the premier Italian-run restaurant here in town.

. . . . . Pete
 
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