Some Oregon Notes

C

Christian Miller (CMM)

Christian Miller
The Oregon Wine Board managed to squeeze in one last trade tasting in San Francisco on March 4th, before everything shut down. There were many, many good wines and not enough time. For the bored board, here are some some notes on some who stood out or were unexpected.

Albarino Umpqua Valley estate 2018, Abacela - their typical aromatic, minerally-citrus, zesty acid style, decent length, a bit austere. $21

Tempranillo Umpqua Valley 2016. Abacela - plentiful fruit, mild yet structured tannin, med-full body, lacks complexity, but decent length $25

Tempranillo Umpqua Valley Barrel Select 2016. Abacela - deeper, classic Abacela style of ripe dark cherry Tempranillo with a touch of earth, framed in oak and fine-grained structured tannins, hinting at tobacco and sweet spices, very long finish. $35

Abacela specializes in Spanish varieties, although they make a wide range of wines beyond that. The whites tend to be modern, lean and fresh while the Tempranillos are old school, intended for the cellar with substantial structure and tannins (except for the "Fiesta" blend). If you like Tempranillo and also miss the structure and ageability of old-fashioned Pauillac and Madiran, you really need to try these wines. Plus owners Earl and Hilda Jones are delightful people. Their son Greg is one of the leading authorities on climate change impact on vineyards.

Gewurztraminer Elkton 2015, Brandborg - fragrant, lively, floral-lichee nose, dry but big fruit gives it a touch of sweetness, fine balance, as usual really good. Year after year, Brandborg makes arguably the best Gewurz in America at a very reasonable price ($18).

Chardonnay McMinnville estate 2016, Brittan - Almost profound Chardonnay, with subtle yet vigorous aroma of baked apple-pear turnover coated with stony-gravelly tones; med-full body, good acid, deep fruit with Mersault-like oatmeal and rain-on-gravel, creamy middle, long finish with density and grip. So impressive. $42 Cool climate Syrah fans alert - Robert Brittan makes a good one.

Chardonnay Willamette Valley 2017, Winderlea - Meursault like Chard fruit with oatmeal-gravel notes in the nose plus Oregon pear-apple fruit; a bit more zesty with less gravitas than the Brittan version. $45

Pinot Noir Dundee Hills "Imprint" 2016, Winderlea - good aromatic PN nose with spice and vigorous fruit; medium body, fine tannins, persists. Whole cluster with stems. $53. BTW, it wasn't available at this tasting, but Winderlea does a great Maresh vineyard bottling.

Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2017, Centerstone - very light color, aromatic PN nose with slight floral and spice; light body, tangy but not bitter, similar flavor. Well done for $20. No oak!

Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2005. Citation - med color starting to brick; classic aged PN nose with dead leaf-autumnal character, mild earth/mushroom, mature dried cherry fruit; med body, similar flavors, velvety tannins, real complexity and style here; $80.

Citation and Centerstone are Howard Rossbach's new ventures. He's the former owner of Firesteed, which along with King Estate and A to Z, popularized Oregon at mid-high teens prices. He sold the brand a few years ago. The new brands are based on his own vineyards in Willamette Valley. Citation features his best lots and vineyard parcels, aged at the winery until he thinks they're at peak. 2005 is the current release - the Ch. Gillette of Oregon?

Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2018, Sokol-Blosser - fresh aroma with deeper fruit than most and a touch of honey; good acid yet round and medium bodied. From an Alsatian clone. $22

Rose' of Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2019, Sokol-Blosser - I tend to favor hearty rose' like Tavel and Navarra over Pinot Noir-based versions, but this is really good. Pale but vivid pink; slightly reduced but blossoms with air, hints of rhubarb and watermelon; more intense on palate with more of that melon fruit plus lively acid and a touch of PN spice, pleasant hint of tannin keeps the finish going. A distinct and appealing style. $25

Grenache Rogue Valley 2017, Upper Five vineyard - the wine of the tasting, utterly unexpected. Intoxicating intense floral-fruity aroma with subtle herb notes; med body but with a solid core of fruit, balanced, moderate but dry tannin, long finish. Kind of like a cousin of Rayas vinified by Lafarge, also reminded me of Ken Forrester's take on Grenache in South Africa, but really it's a unique wine. Complex yet almost quaffable, this should please anyone. Brilliant! $26
 
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
i find this to be cool reading for reasons including, but not limited to, my not having tasted a single one of these wines
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Me neither, except for Sokol-Blossor - they have been around a long time. Glad to see things are changing, too. There was often a sameness and a widespread overuse of oak for years. But, I don't think I ever tasted anything there that could ever be described as "Meursault like Chard fruit." Also because the soils are so different and not all of them produce particularly complex results.
 
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
i find this to be cool reading for reasons including, but not limited to, my not having tasted a single one of these wines
Click to expand...

Me neither, except for Sokol-Blossor - they have been around a long time. Glad to see things are changing, too. There was often a sameness and a widespread overuse of oak for years. But, I don't think I ever tasted anything there that could ever be described as "Meursault like Chard fruit." Also because the soils are so different and not all of them produce particularly complex results.
Click to expand...

My old take on Oregon Chardonnay was rather similar, in particular the era when they were applying CA-style oaking (and often using CA clones) to rather lean wines. You still run into those sometimes, but there's been a sea change in the last 10 years or so. My perception is a bifurcation between gravitating towards low/no oak fresh styles in the lower price range and distinctive, often complex wines at the top - thinking Brittan, Knudsen, Walter Scott, Winderlea, Ponzi Reserve, Cornerstone under Craig Camp (haven't tasted them since he left); I'm definitely forgetting some.

The Meursault comparison comes from a distinct flavor and texture that I have run across regularly in Meursault, yet very rarely in Chassagne, Puligny or Corton/Pernand whites; it's rich, slightly creamy/gruelish, with a flavor whose nearest comparison for me is oatmeal, maybe tinged with earth and hazelnut. YMMV. Over here, I almost never encounter it in California regardless of terroir, but I am running into it in a number of these new wave high end Willamette Valley Chardonnays.

Agree on the diversity of soils impacting flavor in Willamette Valley, plus there's aspect and some warmer/cooler sites. For example the Knudsen vineyard delivers good Chardonnay, but the flavors remind me more of mix of Pouilly-Fuisse' and some Anderson Valley Chardonnays than the Meursault comparison above.

Big Caveat - none of the above is based on tasting huge numbers of wines, or the same wines repeatedly over time, in Oregon and especially Burgundy (other than Chablis).
 
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
i find this to be cool reading for reasons including, but not limited to, my not having tasted a single one of these wines
Click to expand...

Me neither, except for Sokol-Blossor - they have been around a long time. Glad to see things are changing, too. There was often a sameness and a widespread overuse of oak for years. But, I don't think I ever tasted anything there that could ever be described as "Meursault like Chard fruit." Also because the soils are so different and not all of them produce particularly complex results.
Click to expand...

My old take on Oregon Chardonnay was rather similar, in particular the era when they were applying CA-style oaking (and often using CA clones) to rather lean wines. You still run into those sometimes, but there's been a sea change in the last 10 years or so. My perception is a bifurcation between gravitating towards low/no oak fresh styles in the lower price range and distinctive, often complex wines at the top - thinking Brittan, Knudsen, Walter Scott, Winderlea, Ponzi Reserve, Cornerstone under Craig Camp (haven't tasted them since he left); I'm definitely forgetting some.

The Meursault comparison comes from a distinct flavor and texture that I have run across regularly in Meursault, yet very rarely in Chassagne, Puligny or Corton/Pernand whites; it's rich, slightly creamy/gruelish, with a flavor whose nearest comparison for me is oatmeal, maybe tinged with earth and hazelnut. YMMV. Over here, I almost never encounter it in California regardless of terroir, but I am running into it in a number of these new wave high end Willamette Valley Chardonnays.

Agree on the diversity of soils impacting flavor in Willamette Valley, plus there's aspect and some warmer/cooler sites. For example the Knudsen vineyard delivers good Chardonnay, but the flavors remind me more of mix of Pouilly-Fuisse' and some Anderson Valley Chardonnays than the Meursault comparison above.

Big Caveat - none of the above is based on tasting huge numbers of wines, or the same wines repeatedly over time, in Oregon and especially Burgundy (other than Chablis).
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Thanks. I was up there a number of times, but mainly between 2000 and 2010. Never having tasted any Oregon wines after that I am quite interested to try these and others. It was inevitable that there would eventually be some stylistic differentiation. Now, I just have to find them in Europe.
 
I see a 2016 Cristom Vineyards Mt. Jefferson Cuvée for $40 at a winestore in Galicia, apparently Pinot Noir from four volcanic vineyards. Any chance of it being good?
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
I see a 2016 Cristom Vineyards Mt. Jefferson Cuvée for $40 at a winestore in Galicia, apparently Pinot Noir from four volcanic vineyards. Any chance of it being good?
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I wasn't a fan in the past, but maybe someone can comment about their current winemaking.
 
We had a very busy tour of the Willamette wineries. I came away indifferent about the Chardonnays but liking numerous of the Pinot Noirs a lot.

The notable ones that come to mind are Antica Terra (Maggie Harrison), Le Cadeau (Tom Mortimer), EIEIO (Jay McDonald), and maybe Anne Amie almost as well.

Especially noteworthy was Maggie Harrison and her operation -- most impressive. And the best tasting room experience at Antica Terra I have ever encountered anywhere, whether in the U.S., France, or wherever. Drove into the parking lot for a metal warehouse. Upon entry, yes, just a metal warehouse -- what are we doing here!?! And then we were escorted back to a a wine storage room with a picnic table surrounded by casks of wine and a large glass wine case. We were served Jamón Ibérico and complementary nibbles plus a whole lineup of superb Pinot Noirs. We were recognized to have some wine knowledge so they proceeded to pull out library wines for us also. Most memorable of all tasting room experiences.

. . . . . Pete
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
I see a 2016 Cristom Vineyards Mt. Jefferson Cuvée for $40 at a winestore in Galicia, apparently Pinot Noir from four volcanic vineyards. Any chance of it being good?
Click to expand...

I have not tasted the 2016. Mt. Jefferson is their basic blend, the single vineyard wines tend to have more distinct personalities and more complexity. The 2013-2015 vintages of Mt. Jefferson (to my taste) were aromatic with fruit and some PN spice, medium-light bodied, medium to high acidity, very much in the red cherry end of the PN fruit spectrum, hint of rhubarb, moderate tannins but dry with a touch of a bitter Campari-like tone I often get in cooler climate Pinot Noir (thinking especially Anderson Valley and Yonne here). Oak present (mostly older oak is used in this blend), but more as background in nose and finish.

2016 season in Oregon was cooler than average, with a few heat spikes. It's highly regarded there. Given my second hand knowledge of your taste from postings, I'd guess there's a reasonable chance you'd like this wine, at least better than most California Pinot Noirs. Very surprised that you ran across it in Galicia; hopefully the shipping and warehousing was gentle. Assuming no heat damage, it will probably still taste quite young; I'd recommend decanting.
 
originally posted by Peter Creasey:
We had a very busy tour of the Willamette wineries. I came away indifferent about the Chardonnays but liking numerous of the Pinot Noirs a lot.

The notable ones that come to mind are Antica Terra (Maggie Harrison), Le Cadeau (Tom Mortimer), EIEIO (Jay McDonald), and maybe Anne Amie almost as well.

Especially noteworthy was Maggie Harrison and her operation -- most impressive. And the best tasting room experience at Antica Terra I have ever encountered anywhere, whether in the U.S., France, or wherever. Drove into the parking lot for a metal warehouse. Upon entry, yes, just a metal warehouse -- what are we doing here!?! And then we were escorted back to a a wine storage room with a picnic table surrounded by casks of wine and a large glass wine case. We were served Jamón Ibérico and complementary nibbles plus a whole lineup of superb Pinot Noirs. We were recognized to have some wine knowledge so they proceeded to pull out library wines for us also. Most memorable of all tasting room experiences.

. . . . . Pete
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I've only had a couple of Antica Terra PNs, but they impressed me.
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
"Kind of like a cousin of Rayas vinified by Lafarge"
please explain....
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Probably too much of a stretch, but this wine was so different from any West coast Grenaches I have had, and I was struggling to explain how. The wine is very aromatic, with herbal complexities and intense fruit, yet without super ripe or kirsch-like notes; to me that's the Rayas-like part. Plus it shares Rayas' combination of middle weight yet grippy texture. But it doesn't have some of the rustic, slightly oxidized, earthy notes of Rayas. The fruit purity, freshness, balance and length reminds me a bit of Lafarge's style of PN. Ken Forrester's "Gypsy" bottling might be the better comparison, but that wine is not as floral and has more tannic structure. Like I said, hard to describe...
 
that does help
thank you
i asked because i have not had many bottles of Rayas and i think of Lafarge wines as being quite structured and thus suited for a long time in bottle before a harmony is found (in addition to what you noted)
again, thank you...
 
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
I see a 2016 Cristom Vineyards Mt. Jefferson Cuvée for $40 at a winestore in Galicia, apparently Pinot Noir from four volcanic vineyards. Any chance of it being good?
Click to expand...

I have not tasted the 2016. Mt. Jefferson is their basic blend, the single vineyard wines tend to have more distinct personalities and more complexity. The 2013-2015 vintages of Mt. Jefferson (to my taste) were aromatic with fruit and some PN spice, medium-light bodied, medium to high acidity, very much in the red cherry end of the PN fruit spectrum, hint of rhubarb, moderate tannins but dry with a touch of a bitter Campari-like tone I often get in cooler climate Pinot Noir (thinking especially Anderson Valley and Yonne here). Oak present (mostly older oak is used in this blend), but more as background in nose and finish.

2016 season in Oregon was cooler than average, with a few heat spikes. It's highly regarded there. Given my second hand knowledge of your taste from postings, I'd guess there's a reasonable chance you'd like this wine, at least better than most California Pinot Noirs. Very surprised that you ran across it in Galicia; hopefully the shipping and warehousing was gentle. Assuming no heat damage, it will probably still taste quite young; I'd recommend decanting.
Click to expand...

Thank you.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
I see a 2016 Cristom Vineyards Mt. Jefferson Cuvée for $40 at a winestore in Galicia, apparently Pinot Noir from four volcanic vineyards. Any chance of it being good?
Click to expand...

I have not tasted the 2016. Mt. Jefferson is their basic blend, the single vineyard wines tend to have more distinct personalities and more complexity. The 2013-2015 vintages of Mt. Jefferson.... Assuming no heat damage, it will probably still taste quite young; I'd recommend decanting.
Click to expand...

Thank you.
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You're welcome. I hope you are tempted, both to get your take on the wine and because it's fun to imagine someone buying and drinking Oregon Pinot Noir in Galicia.
 
I received an email recently from Brooks Winery. As of a year ago they became a Certified B Corporation. The email mentioned some statistics about B Corps: there are 3,285 of them worldwide, of which 19 are wineries, and 9 of them are in the Willamette Valley: Stoller, Chehalem, Sokol Blosser, Rex Hill, A to Z, Patton Valley, David Hill, Winderlea and Brooks.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Re Oregon wineries...I received an email recently from Brooks Winery. As of a year ago they became a Certified B Corporation. The email mentioned some statistics about B Corps: there are 3,285 of them worldwide, of which 19 are wineries, and 9 of them are in the Willamette Valley: Stoller, Chehalem, Sokol Blosser, Rex Hill, A to Z, Patton Valley, David Hill, Winderlea and Brooks.
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Brooks also makes multiple bottlings of fine Riesling, which is an underrated variety in Willamette Valley IMHO.
 
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